granvillebarker
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Posts posted by granvillebarker
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Starlink announced today for an extra $25/month you can roam with your dish. I have only had mine for a few weeks but so far its pretty awesome.
i will report back after a trip with it.—
Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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Wow, thats a really extensive list, how long did all that take? Any chance you weighed it before and after?
I have been working on my coach since we got back from the gathering in Fl, and after seeing this, realize how little I have done.
Amazed!
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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11 hours ago, Marine Boy said:
It has been a while since I posted about my project to install the Silverleaf Aladdin conversion in my 2006 Dynasty 42 Diamond IV. Things got busy for me and the kit sat in a box for the last few months. I finally found a little time and have almost completed the install, but I need a little help.. I have to say Silverleaf has been great answering my questions as I go.
My problem is that the power supplied out the the Monaco harness is about 13 volts until I hook up the Silverleaf ECM which drops the voltage down to 1.5 volts, which means a bad connection or bad fuse or.... It is definitely not a bad ground and there is no amperage draw. The only fuse for the Aladdin system I could find is in the engine compartment passenger side and it is good and holding 13 volts. Does anyone know of any other fuses for the system or a relay(which could be going bad) or the routing the power wires for the system. I did find out that the power to the ECM is controlled by the Aladdin reset switch which is a brake circuit switch when the reset is pressed. If I run a separate 12v wire to the Silverleaf ECM the system works fine. I am beginning to believe that this low voltage is probably what fried Aladdin ECM.
Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
I would just grab power somewhere else. I think the Aladin controller would power down some of its modules, i know it powers down my cameras. Maybe your on one of the power wires it controlled rather than the wire to the fuse box?
Is this in the dash or elsewhere?
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I replaced my fog lights earlier this week. I used these from Amazon: Auxbeam 4 Inch 90W Round LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N66CVGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KV9DRCEEMCN6DNEPER5T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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I also have an amish cooling unit and never really been happy with it. It still frosts up and sometimes temps are higher than they should be. I would go residential if i were you.
I have also read that some of the residential units fit fine through the door, so check before you believe that comment a few message's back.
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20 hours ago, Moonwink said:
I figure a couple of links would be helpful:
https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Recessed-Replacement-Equivalent-Motorhome/dp/B07BF4SLGT
I have used the kohree bulbs they are very bright and great replacements for my halogens. They have only been in use about a year, the prior LED bulbs I installed about 7 years ago looked similar to them but have started failing and weren’t nearly as bright.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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48 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:
I checked the thermal switch and there is no continuity. I could see before i tried to sand it that there is a small razor thin gap between the contacts. I ran thin sand paper between but i guess my next step would be try and bend the contact to make contact. When i pinch it together it has continuity.
You can bend them a bit, I have a tool for bending those things from working on pinball machines in the past. The tool looks like the tool that used to come with a sardine can to open it, but the slit is open all the way to the bottom.
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On 2/27/2022 at 3:33 PM, Old Dog said:
The round sewage hose storage tube is useless without modification. I removed the existing round tube because the fitting on the ends of the sewage hose wouldn't fit in the tube.
I removed the round tube, then enlarge the opening to the size of the back square panel (with circular opening) using a cutoff wheel. I then purchased a 4" square pvc fence post cover with cap on the other end and installed it in place of the round tube. It slides right over the 2 sides on the existing square box and held in place like the round tube.
The enlarged size allows stowage of any sewage hose. If you make the tube the fill width of the vehicle you can get 2 section of hose in it. Hope this helps to solve some of your problem.
As too the pass through port being off, I would get a 1"-2" larger size port and enlarge the hole to the right. This will center up the larger pass thru. You can easily cut the new, larger hole by hand if need be.
That looks like a great place to store my folding ladder, thanks for the idea!
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18 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:
I changed out my Thomas compressor yesterday and it is now working as it should. I ended up covering the exposed end with some breathable foam to keep the dirt out of the area with the brushes. I took the back cover off of the old unit and the brushes were stuck and very dirty so I cleaned the entire unit and fixed the brushes so they move freely and put it back together. When I hooked it directly to 12 volt source it didn’t work so I am bummed because I wanted to have a spare. It turns freely so is there anything else to check or just toss it?
On the board with the brushed theres a thermal switch with contacts. You can check it with an ohm meter to see if there is connectivity. If not, you can gently open it and sand its contacts a little, just don't bend it.
( i may be mixed up, that may have been on my macerator. )
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15 hours ago, Seattleites said:
I am interested in how you are controlling the lights - are they Intellitec Multiplex switches? Are you able to interface with that? I'd be interested in more details on this.
I am using esp32 based relay modules made by SonOff. It is their 4Ch Pro. I modified the relay modules so the existing switches tie to inputs on the modules and the loads being switched are tied to the relays.
With this configuration, the switches work like they always did even if home assistant is not running.
With multiplex lights, you would need a different setup. Possibly just a serial Interface with the master control box and a custom driver so home assistant can talk to it.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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On 4/4/2022 at 12:09 AM, JDCrow said:
Features, ease of use, easy to program, easy to add other components, great app to control it all.
Thanks for posting these pictures, how hard was it to hookup?
Also, why did you go with the multiplus-ii? Doesn’t it include a transfer switch and doesn't that complicate wiring?
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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I understand people with the diode packs switch to the ML-ACR, but why are you guys with the Big Boy and bird switching as its essentially the same thing just in a smaller package.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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Ken,
I have also noticed the popularity of victron, and have also wondered why.
From my observations, they don’t provide support, you have to get support from a reseller.
The inverters are physically larger than my current xantrex of the same capacity. ( shouldn’t electronics get smaller with 20 years of innovation ).
They are still at the top of my list should
I ever replace the xantrax. Their price, power boost feature, and the data they provide are the biggest advantages to me. I have read they can be noisy, but not as noisy as some much more expensive ones.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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If you ever need to run wires to the back there is a conduit on the passenger side near the surge tank, see pic...
I think you can see the other end looking under the bed.
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I'm saying I recall getting a card on it and filling it out, I just never got any payments.
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Granville Barker
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I had forgotten about that class action, and i haven't seen any payments.
( I just found that card and contacted KCC... )
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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Mike,
My recommendation is to call Paul at ARP, he knows that system better than anyone. If arp was shutting it down, there must be some issue. Those boiler temps sound high to me.
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I don't see a pic, check the back of your vip board for corrosion. That may be your issue if you had water in that bay. Those boards don't have a conformal coating.
—Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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I totally agree with Rick here, remove that green wire and tape it off so the Big Boy can't get activated. That's the simple, best solution and easy to go back to normal if someone wants SLA later.
Boost function isn't a good idea with lithium and should never be needed if the DC-DC is working properly keeping the chassis batteries up.
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Richard,
Post some pictures of your setup, mine is wired like Ivan's. I'm not sure if the HWH relays are socketed, if so, you could try swapping it with one of the others. My HWH is in one of the storage bays.
One trick for testing that HWH by yourself is set your phone in video record mode and set it under the box, then go press all the button ( in a known order ), then go play the movie slow and watch the LED's to see if what you expected happened. When you press a lift button, you should see the relay for the air pump activate too. I think you would see the LED regardless of if the relay is good or bad, it only shows that the HWH activated the relay, not that the contacts in the relay aren't shot. If you see it activating and still no power, see if you can swap the relay with another one that is known to be good.
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Granville Barker
05 Dynasty
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Don't forget the air connections to the parking brake button, tag axle regulator if you have one and the regulator for the step cover. The air horn solenoid is one more place. I have found leaks in some of these areas that tend to get overlooked.
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On 3/13/2022 at 12:00 PM, RS lakeshore said:
When I remove my air leveling compressor do I need to drain both air tanks first or will the air compressor inline check valve keep the pressure up? I have the HWH air leveling system. But no airline drawings. I have hydraulic jacks also, so I willl be using them along with my jack stands to support the chassis while I am under the coach. thanks
Check the downloads on here there are air line diagrams in there. When i have removed my aux compressor, i just pulled the air line from it, there must have been a check valve somewhere else down the lin.
Also i don't think that 12v line is powered unless your in leveling mode actively airing up an air-bag with the pressure low enough for it to be needed.
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On 8/25/2021 at 11:30 AM, Ivan K said:
Well, our Sig slide operates by 2 hydraulic cylinders (with an equalizer in between) and does not have lock provisions. Not even on the inside as it goes in along a wall. I had it creep out once when cylinder leaked and had to close the valves to keep it in by the good cylinder. Maybe they did not put locks on the shallow slides back then... and I really don't care for it as there is no way I would not notice it creeping in the mirror.
My 2000 Windsor had the manual slide locks, i wonder if your previous owner ditched them.
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On 3/15/2022 at 3:48 PM, Joelsheriff said:
Hey guys, a little off topic but close. I was just told it will cost almost $800 to replace my motor in my front dometic 15k unit that is only 7 years old. I really don't want to get into total replacement yet is this a smart move or an I throwing good money into bad. And is that a reasonable price to pay. He says motor, capacitor and labor 7 and change. 07 Dip BTW rear unit only 3 years old
Have you tried reaching up in the unit and spinning the motor? When my Dynasty was new and in storage, sometimes the AC fans wouldn’t work and would pop the breaker. If i hand spun them and broke them free and then turned it on, they would be fine. They eventually stopped seizing up.
Starlink
in Audio, Video, & Electronics
Posted
Hardware is $649 with shipping before tax, and service is $110/mo. Speed has been 100-200 MB down / 10 MB up. Low latency.
Don’t forget the $25/mo portability fee when your on the road, but you can turn that off when not roaming.