moxy1962

I run 105 steers, 95 drives and 85 tag with 40psi pressure on tag , good year g670, 16 ply 275 80 22.5 all around? Pressures measured cold and monitored by TST 12 sender TPMS, with repeater 

2 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Did you ever say how old the tires are?  
Sounds like your mind is made up on the tire insurance, but personally, if I thought there was any significant change of losing a tire, I’d spend that money on new tires…

If the tires aren’t too old, and are otherwise in good shape, I’d be inclined to put two new tires on the front and run the rest until they reach whatever age you consider old enough to warrant replacement. 

Cheers

Walter

Good advise 

Sent you a PM

If he’s not I am 😊

On 1/15/2022 at 2:14 PM, Corkman said:

Sure I’ll take $75, I live in Pensacola

On 1/14/2022 at 11:54 AM, Corkman said:

This came with my RV as an extra and I never used it.

Make an offer

Thanks,

Bill

If it does not go ill take it, down in Arcadia till 23rd

On 1/5/2022 at 7:10 PM, Corkman said:

For what it's worth, I have a 2001 Dynasty with the AHE-100-02S model and if I leave the electric switch on, my wife and I can both take showers in the morning without losing hot water. I am pleasantly surprised how well it works, especially after reading the owners manual. While the diesel burning is necessary to heat the RV, the electric part of "my" Agua Hot does fine for morning showers, if left on all night. I am especially glad the electric part of the AH works good, as our Diesel part is hit or miss, even after having it "fixed" on many occasions. Based on my experience with the AH system, I wish I had a regular furnace that I can count on to work when I need it.

Same here, no worries having a few showers, dishes etc on electric, diesel only really need for heating, one hint I’ll give you, the engine heats my system possibly not all, but getting the electric element on as soon as possible will eliminate waiting for hot water when coming off the road, have hot water for hours even if I don’t turn on electric element 

On 12/17/2021 at 7:39 AM, Dr4Film said:

Bill,

There is a very safe and easy "way around it". Simply by using the PowerPulse Technology units on the batteries, it will reduce and prevent any sulfation of the plates.

Copied from their web site.

"Patented Pulse Technology reduces and prevents sulfation buildup"

https://www.pulsetech.net/powerpulse-battery-maintenance-system

Yes I read up on those, mixed reviews on whether they actually did anything to improve sulphated lead acid batteries or not, I know I see a measurable increase in my batteries specific gravity during and after equalizing the with the inverter/charger. The pulse system from what I read uses up to 60 volts for extremely short periods to blast sulphate off plates,  again mixed results on whether the damage done by extremely high voltage pulsing through the battery is off set by the recovery of capacity. If I believe what the so called experts say there needs to be some sort of fluid movement inside the battery to properly redistribute the chemicals, to some extent the bubbling accomplishes this, whether that’s true or not I don’t expect it hurts, the pulse tech if it actually works doesn’t accomplish that from I read. 
 

So equalizing with inverters works but it requires some attention during charging and does increase voltage nominally for an extended period of time, but I definitely works and 16 volts is typically with in the threshold of most 12 volt DC equipment but not all, the knew technology using extremely high voltage for milliseconds is definitely not recommended by some so called battery experts and causes damage to lead acid batteries and sensitive electronics. 
 

The jury’s out on whether pulse gimmicks work or are snake oil and to what extent if any they have on the typical golf cart style lead acid batteries used by the majority of RV, boats etc. 

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I do not use my Inverter/Charger to equalize the batteries. I don't like sending that much voltage into the batteries and into my 12 VDC  coach system that the Trace/Xantrex Charger or even the Magnum Charger would do while equalizing.

My trace puts about 15.5 - 15.9 volts to the house batteries, I usually shut everything off and disconnect what I can for equalizing just in case, high voltage is the only way you can equalize and reverse build up on plates of lead acid batteries, no real way around it 

5 hours ago, Steven P said:

Thank you.  I can do most of that, but I have all AGMs so I cannot measure the cell's sp. Gravity and cannot equalize.  I have checked all charger settings and they are correct for the house batteries.

One thought, would an Amp L Start connecting my chassis batteries  to the house batts change anything as far as when off shore power?  I know the green light flashes saying maintaining initially.

On 12/8/2021 at 10:05 AM, Dr4Film said:

👍

Not up on agms but was under the  impression they can be equalized? 

10 hours ago, W7BE_Bob said:

No I was not referring to the charger. I was referring to the correct charging for a flooded battery regardless of the source, charger, solar or alternator. 13.4 is not OK for the conditions you described. First do a load test on both battery banks and then with good batteries find out why your alternator or wiring is not charging as they should. This assumes you measure at the battery terminals.

 

Here’s my suggestion, disconnect your short jumper between one pair, then the next, measure voltage with good meter, that will help you determine if you have a bad pair of batteries, if they all measure the same then try each battery individually, disconnect on the short jumper wilL isolate batteries, let them sit for few hours, re measure voltage, a bad battery will discharge and voltage will drop. Now if your batteries all measure well and they measure well individually, and if you have a specific gravity tester, check each cell, they should all measure close to each other and be in the white close to green if not fully charged and in the green if charged. Once you determine you batteries are all in decent shape charge them with your inverter, make sure your inverter is set up properly for batter size, charging limits battery type etc. once you have done all all that and charged all you battteries, you can perform a equalization charge which require you to monitor batteries during the charge, you will need to ensure they have adequate acid levels, remove cell caps, have a thermometer safety glasses and gloves, run the equalization charge, cells should bubble and get warm, never over 100f,  it may take hours and that may clean up your batteries. If not, they are likely shot

On 12/6/2021 at 10:08 AM, Trinidaddave said:

When I purchased my 05 Safari Gazelle the previous owner was using a small disc wedge under the battery boost switch to allow charging of coach and chassis batteries while connected to battery charger keeping batteries topped off.

Since my coach is not equipped with ability to charge coach batteries from alternator, what are your thoughts of using the same wedge under the boost switch while traveling?  I realize the solenoid is not continuous duty, but I could upgrade to continuous duty.

 I would eventually install the components for a more permanent installation, this is just an interim work around.  
 

Install a battery isolator and charge both 

1 hour ago, knightmovesrv said:

We own a site in this former Air Stream park that accepts class A on permanent sites and all others on park owned grass sites with full hook ups. Its called Paradise Park in Punta Gorda FL. Downside is its about 20 miles from downtown Punta Gorda or Ft Myers. We have pool, 9 hole golf course, wide paved streets and all the normal amenities and activities. Lots are for rent (see Donslots.net) and the assoc web site has private lots listed for rent, also the grass sites available through assoc. 

sent a message thank you for info 

34 minutes ago, FishAR said:

I lease a spot at The Glades RV Resort and Marina, about 40 miles east of Ft. Myers. More central than west.

9 hole golf course on site, pool, marina, nice restaurant. Thing that I like that others wouldn't is it's a 15 mile drive to the grocery store in Labelle. Out in the middle of nowhere on 80.

It was half empty last year but I hear things are picked up this year, leaving tomorrow to go down there.

Would like Closer to coast but will keep info thank

you 

Looking for spot from Xmas through to end of January, at this point just about anything will do 

On 9/15/2021 at 12:24 PM, Gary Petersen said:

My problem is with the kitchen sink drain in our 2002' Signature Centurion which has the drivers side kitchen slide-out. We started getting  sink water running across the floor whenever we drained the kitchen sink. I thought at first, this sounds like a reasonably easy plumbing issue to fix. Wow, was I wrong.

I located the white colored, and stiffly corrugated 1 1/2" PVC Flexible drain pipe. I found that due to the lack of cabinet space, I could see that the pipe had been abruptly kinked to 90 degrees against the inside wall of the cabinet, specifically when the sink is in the "slide-in" position. Question: Could this possibly be Monaco's original design? Or did I find some after market repair? 

This sharp 90 degree kinking occurs just after the transition from ABS to the flexible drain. It must have happened so many times that it fractured the flexible corrugated  pipe. (photo below)

This design requires that the drain pipe be flexible so as to maintain the the integrity of the drain while constantly flexing as it maintains the 180 degree turn as the "slide-out" travel makes the pipe move several inches.

I cut out the "kink" and tried to reconnect the piping using a Fernco fitting with double hose clamps but the drain pipe pulls out of the Fernco when the Slide is sent out.

Is this the original plumbing system and has anyone else had to deal with this? I am north of Seattle; can anyone suggest a shop that may be  familiar with this Monaco system? 

Thanks, Gary

 

 

 

 

Been there done that, has to repair twice in 7 years, the trolly system needs to slide smoothly and everything needs to stay in alignment 

53 minutes ago, Twomed said:

Google...GE 18350  or GE H4360 if you want halogen.  Standard 4x6 worklight still used in tractors, trucking "worklight bulb" 

My sealed beam measures 3 1/2 by 5 3/4, 

8 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Thats strange to burn out reverse lights… i think in my pick up over the last 10 years i have burned 1 out. Its funney you should mention replacing bulbs, i had changed the sockets to accept the latest version bulb… the socket was so big that when the bulb was in it stuck out too far so i had to put the old style back in… So givin the bulbs lack of brightness i have decided to “upgrade” my lighting option, Now im not going to connect them to the reverse light circuit, instead im going to connect my add on bulbs to the docking light circuit. These lights will mount to the reciever hitch frame in the rear. I figure these lights will be awsome when hooking up my truck on the dolly or assist when backing up. I bought them on amazon an were inexpensive. 

That’s my back up light and they lasted almost 20 years 😊

What did you replace with 

6 hours ago, moxy1962 said:

Perfect thank you 

all fixed, power wise, transmission is still shot for forward and reverse on passenger seat, looking for 6 way power seat carriage, my coach has Villa seats if anyone has a lead, over $500.00 US for replacement.

Has any one found a replacement or solution to burnt out reverse lights?

5 minutes ago, Corkman said:

I have a 2001 Dynasty with tag, here are the pics of the fuse panel located outside below the drivers seat.

As best I can tell the seat (not sure if both) is a circuit breaker located on the left side of the compartment, mid way up. There are four self resting circuit breakers, the power seat is the second from the top.

Hope this helps

Bill

 

 

Perfect thank you 

Anyone know the location of the passenger side power seat fuse. my drawing as so blurry I cant read most of the fuses

Thanks

Bill,

50 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

It's not just the burner blower motor, but the fuel pump, solenoids, and other things that draw power.  The Aquahot manual states that the main Aquahot unit draws 60 Watts, the Circulation Pumps draw 21 Watts each, and the Cozys (Registers) draw 6.25 Watts each.  

 

Trojan lead acid batteries show that fully charged, no load, after letting the surface charge dissipate, is 12.74 Volts.  You voltage, if NOT under load, would indicate just over 80% SOC, but since it is under unspecified load, the SOC would be higher. 

Been running for hours and still at 12.5 volts 

3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Hmmm!

I've never noticed my burner motor having a lot of draw on my batteries.

Pretty big motor lol

3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Ambient temp will also make a difference. If you have lead acid batteries, 12.5v is practically fully charged in freezing weather.

Back up to 12.65 v with just rads and circ pumps running fur 1 hour 

GC2 230 amp lead acid 6 volt x4