moxy1962

6 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Bill, would help if you included your 01 Dynasty 40’? in your signature. Pretty sure the OP knows what size tires he has plus the brochure for a 01 Exe says 295/80. 01 Dynasty calls for 295/75???

 Brochure for 01 executive lists 295 75 22.5 as stock tire, not sure what brochure you are reading, the coaches dimensions  and capacities are identical to my late 2001 Monaco Chancellor which only came in one configuration with tag axle, regardless, commercial truck tires are not Designed with motorhomes or Ride comfort in mind 

24 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Discussion was the OP’s 01 Exe with 6 295s on the rear, not 275s on a non tag coach. Yes, I have to increase the psi by 12 in the 11Rs over a 295, but when you start at 90, 102’s ride is not noticeable on the rear.

Well my tag axle coach runs 275 80 22.5 all around, the 295s on the 01 coach we’re likely 295 75 22.5s, even if they were 295 80 22.5s with would run min pressure of 80psi conversely 11r22.5’s would run at 95 psi, so whether it’s 12 Or 15 psi cold, that has huge impact on ride quality, add in the fact that the RV tires are designed for ride comfort, going to commercial truck tire to save a few bucks isn’t a wise choice, drive tag or steers. 

On 10/8/2021 at 5:37 PM, Ivylog said:

Bridgestone/Firestone are good tires. I’ll try one more time. You do not need 295s on the rear…11R22.5 are the same diameter and have plenty of load carrying and cost $400 or less installed.

Are they? 11R22.5 vs 275 80 22.5 I don’t believe  have same capacity at any pressure, seeing as non tag coaches typically run at or near axle limits going to 11r’s with 1000lbs less capacity may not be a good bet seeing as at a minimum they require significantly air pressure for same load like 105psi  in g670 275 80 22.5 vs 125 in 11r22.5. That’s quite a difference in ride quality 

1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

You also need to consider the additional side loading caused by dragging the tag and drive tires around sharp turns.

I was on a job earlier this year, where the site had hired two large tour buses to shuttle employees to/from the parking lots.
One driver told me they corded a set of tag tires in just a few days, and a few hundred miles.  These buses didn't have the ability to raise the tag.
After going through several sets of tires, he actually chained the tag up to force the drives to carry the whole weight. LOL

When I'm slow speed maneuvering I throw the switch and take the weight off the tags 

17 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

And we worry about raising the tag because of excessive tire wear??

Those large axle spread tires skid significantly more that tag axles 

On 9/1/2021 at 11:46 AM, Ivylog said:

10,500 on the tag and 14,400 on the steer…have gone to 315s on the front.

I expect your coach is well balanced you weights are very close to limits, wouldn’t take much imbalance to overload your individual hubs and tire combinations

I replace my Leece Neville with a newer leece neville self exciting solid state 210 Amp alternator, the alternator does require a voltage signals from the batteries that tells it what the charge rate should be, it has the ac Terminal for alt light and tach, to solve the issue of the 12 volt signal that was not present on the positive cable running from alternator to battery isolator, I used the original ignition circuit lead that excited the old style alternator, in my coach that piggy backed of the fuel boost pump, now if I just put That wire to the battery terminal it would work but would supply power to the entire ignition circuit constantly as long as the alternator was turning, so I just put a diode in line that stops any voltage from the alternator from energizing the circuit, simple 5 dollar fix that allows virtually any alternator to be used that will fit, been 4 months,1000s of kilometres and this fix requires a little solder a piece of shrink tube and a $5 diode. No rewiring no different isolators or electronics. The original system works great and has for 20 years, I didn’t see the need To mess with it.

I would be interested in the black u shaped trim that holds the wood panels to the fridge particularly around the right side freezer door, happy to pay for your time, the part and shipping, they are NLA.

9 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

That was me thinking the videographer was shooting in the morning, which they were.  Unfortunately I got my E-W a little mixed up (or was it N-S?). 

TPMS is a must with rigs like ours. 

  

Which TPMS system failed? 

- bob

TPMS didn’t fail, it just didn’t warn of impending failure, which im not sure it could have, tire suffered a structural failure due to exposed steel cords inside tire rusting out and failing 

I run between 105 and 110kph, which is max 68 mph, coach seems to cruise well at that speed, just so happens that is 10% below tires recommended speed, for me it is a nice relaxed speed, typically I am one of the slower rigs on the road, when I do get passed by other coaches I’ll admit I shake my head that anyone would drive 70 plus mph in something so big and cumbersome. I have tpms and while I get comfort from some information from it, it never warned  of my failure of front steer tire on I81 northbound few years back 

Incredible, to tear the superstructure from the frame must have been an incredible amount of force, the tree clearly deflected the coach, how fast would it have had to of been travelling to spin her around and send the chassis backwards another hundred feet from the superstructure, just incredible. I would hope my Dynasty would fair better in a similar collision. I’ve had a steer tire blow if that’s what caused the departure from the road, in my blow out I was able to maintain control at highway speed and get to the shoulder safely, I’ve often wondered if the fact I had a car hauler behind me help maintain control. Regardless sad day for our RV community 😔 

32 minutes ago, pulsarjab said:

Our 2000 Diplomat needs a new muffler. I am looking for a like replacement. Where will I find the correct part?

Thanks

2000 ISC Diplomat

What are dimensions  of old muffler?

1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

NO!  I'm saying that no matter how high your boost pressure is above the "stock" configuration, the ECM will NOT deliver ANY additional fuel to take advantage of the increased boost BEYOND THE MAX IT IS ALREADY PROGRAMMED FOR.  At your STOCK boost PSI, the ECM will deliver a max amount of fuel that is programmed for that max STOCK boost.  Increase your boost above stock and the ECM will not deliver one iota more fuel.  Only Cummins INSITE software can change that.

The ECM delivers an amount of fuel based on throttle position, boost, and a few other parameters like intake manifold temperature, coolant temperature, etc.  But NOTHING (other than a "chip") will deliver one iota beyond the MAX fuel per injection that the ECM is programmed to deliver.  Re-read my post more carefully.

If it was as simple as increasing boost to increase performance, there would not be a "chip" industry.  All you would have to do is increase boost, the ECM adds more fuel because of increased boost...and VOILA!...you have more power.

You are talking about "theory", which I HOPED was true when I began this adventure.  I hoped if I increased boost, the ECM would recognize the additional boost and add more fuel.  ABSOLUTELY NOT.  I'm talking about lots of hours of EXPERIENCE, learning that the ECM will NOT add extra fuel just because I have raised boost pressure.  Increased boost will reduce EGT, but will not add additional fueling.  Without additional fueling, there is NO increase in power.  A few folks on this forum understand that principle.

I'm not trying to be rude, and certainly not condescending.  I'm simply stating a FACT that my EXPERIENCE has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt--raising boost will NOT increase MAX fuel delivery (and therefore CANNOT increase power).  If you wish to dispute that fact, please provide dyno statistics...before and after boost increase.  Your OPINIONS fall into the same category as my HOPES when I began increasing boost pressure.  I'm an engineer.  I trust FACTS.  The FACT is that increasing my boost pressure did nothing other than reduce my EGT.  I was disappointed.  I hoped the ECM would recognize the additional boost and supply additional fuel to take advantage of it.  NOPE.  I had to add a "chip" to get increased fueling...and performance.

Richard,

I suspect that you can talk to the folks at Ag Solutions and get a 12100 part number pre-programmed to take advantage of the additional boost the Banks "hot-rod" turbo provides.  I think they tend to be somewhat conservative.  Just like the Cummins ECM, their "chip" is programmed to provide only a specified amount of additional fueling.  You are like me, and I think you could keep an eye on your EGT gage and control EGT with throttle position and RPM.  They are not expensive, and they simply have an “extension cord” device that plugs into one of the three-prong connectors leaving the injection control unit.  It’s a very easy addition.  I have no doubt you could handle the installation yourself.  Just tell them you already have the Banks turbo and tell them what your boost PSI is.  Ask them to program your unit accordingly.

You have my phone number.  Call me if you have any questions.

Van

I never said it did? Never once said anything about exceeding factory set parameters, all I ever said was stock exhaust or not, my machine makes 28 lbs of boost, anyone who puts free flowing exhaust will see no gains in boost or performance, just louder, perhaps re reading  my posts would add some clarity 

10 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

With the Cummins ECM, increasing boost pressure DOES NOT cause additional fuel to be delivered...DOES NOT cause additional fuel to be delivered...DOES NOT cause additional fuel to be delivered.  Would be nice if that were the case, but NOT SO.  Additional boost will lower EGT under all conditions, but the max programmed fuel from the ECM is not changed.  To increase power, you must increase fuel delivery and you will have to do that with an add-on device like Agricultural Solutions or similar.

It might seem reasonable that if the ECM sees higher boost, it will supply additional fuel, but it simply DOES NOT do that.  All you get from additional boost is the ABILITY to burn more fuel efficiently, but the Cummins ECM will not supply additional fuel no matter what boost pressure you achieve.  I increased my boost pressure from 22-23 PSI to 30+ PSI.  It lowered EGT considerably, but did not increase performance.  Adding the Ag Solutions "chip" increased power by a modest amount while raising EGT.  The increased boost kept the EGT at about the pre-chip temperature.

So you are trying to say that the engine uses the same amount of fuel at idle as it does at full throttle, that no matter what the demand, more power needs more fuel, afr and egt would say you are wrong, not sure where you are going with your assumption, but to make more power the engine burns more fuel, with turbo charged applications the demand for fuel increases dramatically to maintain an afr of between 14-1 and 16 - 1 for turbo applications, if the ecm did not add addition fuel the engine would lose power, there is a balance between egt, pollution and power , the ecm ensures clean burning powerful reasonable egt running, simple as that, the engine burns more fuel the higher the boost, your repeated comment that it doesn’t is wrong, I’ve never said once anything about exceeding engine parameters with respect to boost, fuel pressure or metering, 

11 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

Not necessarily.  A diesel doesn't operate with a relatively constant Air/Fuel ratio like a gasoline engine.
You can increase fuel and power without increasing boost, but that also results in high exhaust temps and excessive smoke.
Once you have enough boost to allow your injection pump to reach maximum fuel , further increases in boost pressure will actually reduce power slightly due to pumping losses.

Diesels run lean by design, excessive lean condition will not make more power no, but that’s not what I said, my ISL will maintain the afr based on available boost, if my boost is lower due to a restrictive exhaust or intake the afr will stay at optimum and that would mean less fuel and air, which means less power, which some may feel or notice.

The point of my Comment is, the stock exhaust set up is sufficient to allow max boost on my engine, therefore allowing the most Efficient afr, no need to worry about restrictive factory exhaust, it is fine. Any seat of the pants feeling some may feel is likely about the sound not about the power. 

50 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

Boost level doesn't have much to do with power output.  Without additional fuel, you could have 100psi of boost and still make the same power, or even less due to the pumping losses associated with making more boost pressure.
Higher boost simply provides more oxygen, which ALLOWS the engine to burn more fuel, but doesn't increase power in and of itself.
It's certainly not a very good indicator of exhaust efficiency.
Like I said, any gains from exhaust are small and unlikely to be able to be felt from the driver's seat.

Boost goes up so does fuel metering, fuel alone doesn't create power hense the need for the turbo,  fuel without air or in this case forced induction doesn’t do squat but you know that, so if my boost increases so does the fuel delivered to each cylinder, conversely when the boost drops the fueL decreases, more boost, more fuel, more power, can’t change the laws of physics my friend, 

You ever notice that performance set ups for Diesel engines include intake, exhaust and turbos? if you can’t get the exhaust out  you can’t get fresh air and  fuel in, exhaust is everything 

A lot of coach owners report better performance with straight through exhaust or straight through mufflers, and comment the performance gains are worth the extra exhaust noise, I’ve read less turns, bigger diameter, Less restrictive mufflers or resonators allow exhaust gases to exit vehicle quicker using less energy to pump them increasing turbo efficiency. . My ISL has 6 bends in the exhaust 3 of them are 90 degree bends, 3 are 45’s, travelling about 10 or 12 feet, by all accounts fairly restrictive exhaust set up, yet as I have indicated when compared to the rusted out exhaust with substantial holes in turbo down pipe, there was 0 loss in boost with complete new factory style muffler and piping which by all accounts is the measuring stick for turbo diesel performance, and it’s quiet.

31 minutes ago, moxy1962 said:

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know 

Bolt on exhaust modifications are a great way to get more horsepower out of your turbocharged vehicle. ... Turbo back exhausts accomplish this increased flow by widening the pipe size and removing restrictive factory bends. With this type of modification you will immediately notice an HP gain.

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know 

7 minutes ago, David White said:

The above comment brings up a question in my mind.  I’m not sure that boost (28pi) has anything to to with increased efficiency from a more open exhaust. I would think the turbo boost would likely be the same, but possibly there is less restriction on exhaust with an Aero type system, and maybe more benefit from whatever boost you have.  
Im not trying to get into the “which is best” debate, but is there any difference in the boost between close and open exhaust systems?

As far as I know, boost is created by exhaust passing through the turbo, spinning impellers, the faster the exhaust the higher boost, if there are restrictions I expect that slows things down and creates less boost, my point was the with literally no restriction by virtue of my rotted out exhaust I achieved 28 lbs, once proper exhaust was installed I still made 28 lbs, so in my mind the only savings would be weight using a smaller muffler/resonator, with a likely increase in exhaust noise.

28lbs of boost is 28lbs of boost, as far as exhaust efficiency past the turbo, as far as I know it doesn’t matter after the turbo what happens as long as exhaust can exit unrestricted, which I would say judging by my results or does

7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

ISM 500? Looks similar,  maybe identical to ours but I think I still got few years to get ready to tackle it too.

ISL

1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

Wow, that is some rust. What coach is it? I can't get the video working. 

01 dynasty chancellor tag axle 

Thought about going to something smaller, less restrictive and cheaper but I can tell you now that after a 20 mile drive that with some rather large holes in the exhaust pipes and a less than complete muffler I got around 28lbs of boost and the exhaust was very loud. With the new factory original system installed, the coach is quiet as a mouse with the pedal down and still getting 28lbs of boost, 

ive always been a believer that they knew what they were doing for the most part when they built these rigs, engine performance and noise abatement were obviously on their minds when the put bigger motors and huge mufflers in them, so, for me stock ISL and garbage can size muffler keeps me at the speed limit towing 10k car hauler in the middle lane and can sneak in anywhere pretty quietly 😊

3 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

How much of that 10 hours was beating on rusty bolts / joints?

- bob

 

Cut off disc and grinder, didn’t try to save any of the 20 year old hardware 

Complete my exhaust replacement today, new brackets, flex pipe, elbow replaced 2’ of down pipe, replaced 45* elbow at muffler, muffler, $800 in parts a d about 10 hours of my time,