moxy1962

With aqua hot on and rads working voltage dropped to 12.52 volts after 30 minutes, will continue to monitor just curious if others have any comparisons 

23 minutes ago, BigNick said:

Thank you, mine bounces just a bit, I'll mark it, exercise the pot and call it good.

Worked for me, good luck 

It does yes 

Ends up gears are stripped in forward and backwards so need new 6 wat assembly 

28 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Different panel, maybe older version? 

13 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

I concur 

Perfect solution other than no

need to leave inverter on

or 120 volt heating

element 

Just now, Dr4Film said:

At the risk of getting too far off topic, The Inverter has a setting for "quiet time" such that it will not allow the generator to start during the times set.

The purpose of the Inverter is to use 12 VDC battery power to Invert it into 120 VAC. Therefore no 120 VAC is needed.

I will test it one day but it's not high on my priority list at the moment.

It works great and just as you would imagine, starts, charges and shuts off when charging is completed, takes 3 minutes to set up and away you go, 

Just now, Ivylog said:

The inverter doesn’t charge the batteries… the charger in the inverter/charger charges the batteries. There are 2 buttons on the remote control… one for turning the charger on/off and the second for the inverter.

You would need to shut off charging function on my inverter charger otherwise it defaults to charging , the only on off button on my RCGS is for turning inverter on or off

12 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

While our rigs have/had AGS, other than to test if it worked, I never use it…don’t need it starting during quite hours. I’m ASSUMING you do not need 120V for it to work…time for someone to test.

Nope it auto starts when batteries get below set parameters and will charge batteries through inverter until they reach predetermined state of charge and you can set quiet times, on my inverter charger controls, Yours may be different 

On 11/13/2021 at 8:19 AM, ncsteve said:

I am in the same boat. Well kind of anyway. My RV is home under our shed in NC and I am currently in Indiana.  Supposed to get in the upper 20’s tonight. I am not worried. With temps in the 50’s during the day and only getting to sub freezing for a few hours won’t hurt anything based on all of my previous experiences.

That is a huge risk to take, the aqua hot is very delicate and freezing would be catastrophic, either winterized coach or run the aqua hot for two days, put your generator on auto start if equipped 

16 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

Good luck. Sure is a learning curve isn’t it?

Once had this coach for 7 years now always something now, I’m becoming quite a expert

Ok perfect thank you 

17 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

My 05 sig just needed the worm drive old dried grease cleaned up and new grease. After not being used it dried up and was like rock. Good luck

paulb

Thanks Psul, I assume you mean cable drive ?

Anyone have a fix for seat motors moving slow or not at all

thanks

Bill

On 11/10/2021 at 3:16 PM, Robert U said:

I have a 2000 Dip and finally fixed the speedometer from being all over the place. On the back of the gauge there is a black pot with a screw driver slot. I marked the position of the slot. I then used a screwdriver to turn the pot back and forth to clean the variable resister. Speedo has now been working great for a year. Also the tach has a variable pot on back which also cleaned by moving it back and fourth.

Bob U 2000 Dip

Nailed it, that was easy, tach and Speedo working perfect

thanks for the fix

Bill

14 minutes ago, Mary & Glenn said:

When we bought our 2000 Dynasty in 2013 the fuel gauge didn't work. The spedo would vary some initially and it progressively got worse to the point that it is a joke. Also, whoever at Monaco designed the dashboard, at least for the 2000 model year, never bothered to sit behind the wheel and attempt to look at the gauges. They are almost impossible to see without leaning forward. I solved the problem right away by installing a Silverleaf interface to the CAN interface of the engine and transmission and put a small laptop in a spot that doesn't impair my view but gives me everything I need to know from the dash and a whole lot more. It is a bit of a project to determine what is best for situation to place the laptop but well worth the effort. This is an old picture to show the install. My laptop gauge setup is quite a bit different now.

Not looking to to go quite that elaborate but thanks for the Suggestion, I can see the gauges fine, need them to be accurate 

3 minutes ago, Robert U said:

It would be nice to know what motorhome year and model we are discussing here.

Bob U 2000 Dip

2002 dynasty chancellor

32 minutes ago, jimc99999 said:

My bouncing tach was a precursor to alternator failure. On my 97 Windsor the tach signal comes from the alternator. 

New alternator or old still bouncing 

Unplugged what may I ask 

Has anyone figured out the fix for sure ?

On 10/14/2021 at 7:35 AM, Ivylog said:

Sorry but the opposite is true. If you increase the weight on the tag 1000 lbs, the drive decreases 1200 lbs and the steer increase 200 lbs on a 45’ rig. There is no fulcrum in the middle, it’s a arm and  it’s on a 280” to 44” ratio …6/1 approx.

It’s actually the inverse square logarithm double the distance quadruple the force or conversely halve the distance decrease the force by 75%, and adding 1000 lbs of force with no physical changes cannot create 1200 lbs of force unless You can change the laws of physics 

18 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Weigh the coach. Four , or Six corner weight is the best, but single axle weights will be OK too. Fuel and water full. Black and grey tanks empty with your stuff on board. CAT scales at many truck stops. Tell the clerk you want to weigh a coach. There is an intercom at the scale so you can communicate with the clerk. There will be -3- platforms for -3- axles. Steer axle on the  first, Drive on the second, and if applicable, Tag on the third. Get the print out from the clerk. IF you have a tag axle, you may have to adjust your DOWN pressure to move weight as needed, and after adjusting your down pressure on the tag, REWEIGH the coach.  Now go to YOUR tire Mfg. inflation charts for the correct COLD inflation.

Tire Inflation Tables

rvsafety.com

 

RVSAFETY.COM

RVSEF Home

Then only way to do it, Period !!!

53 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

01 is only the second year of the Exe having a tag… just starting to need one as the length increased over 40’, slides were added, and bigger engines. By 04 the front axle had gone from 13,000 to 15,160. In 07 the tag went from 10K to 12K. Around 06 the fuel tank was moved from just behind the front axle to help its  overloading. The 09 Signature (Exe had been discontinued) came with 8 315 tires. I’m running 315 on the front and 11R on the rear of my 08 Navigator.

You probably have 9,000+ lbs of CCC…fuel, water, and all your stuff…for F Time that can be 5-6,000 lbs. Weighing before your loaded up, ready to travel isn’t going to tell you much. My educated guess for your psi is 100 front, 85 drive and 60 tag until you weigh. Most use 40 in the tag regulator but I’d start with 35.

Having run 315s on 8.25” rims for 10+ years, the issue is a 8.25” rim is only rated for 7600 lbs. A 315 as a dual is not derated because at max psi (120 psi) it is NOT exceeding 7600 lbs... I kept reading the footnotes on derating. Today fewer manufacturers list a 8.25” rim for a 315... more lawyers have gotten involved

If his coach is sane as mine which I think it is other than possible bigger motor, min on 275 80 is,  fronts 105 cold, drives at 95 cold and tags, lowest those tires can run is 85, that based on full fuel and water, ready to travel, MTO scale, all three axles, left and right, pressures set up highest weights per axle 

27 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Plus, if I remember correctly 315 tires on a narrower rim requires one to downgrade the load capacity by a certain percentage. Don't remember what that specific % is.

Not sure about that, makes sense though,

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

I see in another post you’re probably near Atlanta Commercial Tire… I’ve gotten good prices from them and you could check the dates codes before buying. While I pick the tires up, they have guys that will change the tires in their parking lot.

I would put new 295/80 on the front and maybe move the steer to the tag (easier to remove the tire than polish the rims). A 11R is slightly taller than a 275/80 so at 60 mph you’d actually be going 62.

315 may be overkill for your 01 Dynasty, but not for my 08 Navigator. -20 psi is not slightly less.
PS: You’d have to pay me to use G670s.

I would hazard a guess and say there were a pile of Goodyear’s out there as they were OE on a lot of coaches, having run on GOODYEAR for some 15 years and Ill admit even having blown up one, which Goodyear replaced and covered all related costs, they have been and exemplary tire, when looked after, and this is important,  properly inflated they are a safe tire and when used according to manufactures recommendations a dependable excellent riding tire. I would  bet money that the majority of RV TIRE failures are result of abuse, under inflation and improper use. Which coincidently is why I comment often when I see ill advised advice to new or uneducated RV owner seeking safe sound advice 

it’s over kill for your coach even if you are at max front gvw, the difference in pressure would be 10 psi not 20, 315s are over width for the alcoa wheels on your coach as well unless you purchased wider rims?.  By all accounts 315’s are to wide even for your coach, and wider rims would make that interference worse. But regardless the OP doesn’t need 315’s as you recommended, they would be overkill as I stated, too wide for his rims too,  not to mention a giant waste of money, over $200 more each than 295 or 275 which fit the rim properly, won’t interfere with suspension and are both more than adequate for OP’s coach all around. 

3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Not sure what 11R you are looking at as the ones I’m using have a slightly higher load rating than a 278/80…5840 at 105 instead of 5750 at 105.
Discussion was the OP’s 01 Exe with 6 295s on the rear, not 275s on a non tag coach. Yes, I have to increase the psi by 12 in the 11Rs over a 295, but when you start at 90, 102’s ride is not noticeable on the rear.

PS: already running 315s on the front…another reason to not use 295s on the rear. My drive axle is over 22K.

Goodyear 275 80 22.5 G670 has dual capacity of over 26k for your drives and single of 15k for steers if required, no need to overdo tire size except for the ability to run slightly lower pressure, 315s are way over kill 

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Not sure what 11R you are looking at as the ones I’m using have a slightly higher load rating than a 278/80…5840 at 105 instead of 5750 at 105.
Discussion was the OP’s 01 Exe with 6 295s on the rear, not 275s on a non tag coach. Yes, I have to increase the psi by 12 in the 11Rs over a 295, but when you start at 90, 102’s ride is not noticeable on the rear.

PS: already running 315s on the front…another reason to not use 295s on the rear. My drive axle is over 22K.

He does say the tires are 275’s on his 01 Exec tag coach FYI