Hotrod - R.I.P.

Scotti, yes that Iron should be low pressure, 11” h20 (1/2psi). The regulator is right next to the tank.

That high pressure copper line sounds way dangerous to me. Is this a joke post? On a hot summer day the tank pressure can be 250 psi (at 130 df). Sounds like accident in waiting to me. Use low pressure and remove regulator at grill.

Are both chassis and house overcharging? If so, change the regulator on the alternator. Only a 20$ part. That means if you diy it costs you 20$. If only the chassis or only the house is over charging , it’s the solid state isolator . You can get them on amazon.

I forgot to mention the capacity is in the owners manual of my dynasty.

I don’t know what 1 lb tank you are taking about except maybe an LP bottle for the grill. The pressure in such a bottle is the same as the lp tank pressure in the coach tank and is a function of temperature. It could be over 100psi. Some people use the tank directly but I don’t think it’s safe . A lot of energy can come out of a hose at 100psi. 11” h20 is very low pressure , like 1/2 psi. You can stop the end of a hose with your finger . The tank output goes to a regulator that goes to your appliances at 11”. You can still get 50000 btu an hour thru a low pressure line . I can run 30’ of hose to my grill or campfire and get plenty of gas at low pressure . Both of them have 3/8 connections but I have also a 1/4” hose that has the 1/4 connection at the coach . It’s a little more flexible than the 3/8. I ended up putting both connections on as an experiential and either or both are fine .

To do a 20k axle on my Dynasty took 4 gallons. I used Lucas synthetic 75w90 gear oil and I am very happy with it... makes the axle very quiet. Some people want one that meets the spicer sharps specification. The Texaco synthetic that monaco put in it smelled and looked bad. I think it was 2015 that I changed it.

Yes that appears to be the prep. It is low pressure , 11” h2o. You need only add quick connect. But you will have to remove the regulator on your grill or fire pit. Both 1/4 and 3/8 lines work fine. I have both and several hoses , fire pit and bbq. I’ve had my rf18 refer for over 3 years now and still have a half tank of Lp.

Jerry, So I take it you have 300ah of lifepo4? Do you charge them with the genny while traveling and are there any issues with that? Or are you just charging with the genny and what absorb and float values do you use ? What amp alternator and brand do you have? Or so you have some type of dc to dc interface between the chassis and house batteries ? I sure want lithium the next time I have to redo my batteries (which is years away I hope ). I have found that solar panels can be had pretty cheap on the Facebook marketplace locally. I got one recently for My golf cart 40c a watt, 100$ for 260w. That panel can produce about a kwh per day. You could save a lot of generator hours (4 hours per day) with a 4 panels. Diy such a system for under 1000$. They sure are quiet.

Ed, Actually, apparently Now they do sell them all the way out to California now . You just need to look in the right store.

The reason I believe that Duracell is sold east of the ms is that they are made by East Penn and freight is a big factor. East of the MS is not true any more. I found them in stock in Fresno , CA ! Lady Lake, Fl as your club on the sams app and look them up. latham , ny has them.

Just use a bolt and shape the head round and thin with a grinder . As was stated, cut the bolt to have a our 1/4” shank and you have a rivit which will pound out with a ball peen hammer and an anvil (on vise). I’ve done a couple of these and they work perfect and new rivit is as good as factory. A regular grade 2 bolt is fine .

That’s smart to not ignore information . The cca on gc2 agms tell your that they have low internal resistance and can operate loads such as your inverter much more efficiently than flooded batteries . I know how poorly flooded batteries deal with big loads as I have had them .

Gc2 agms have a 680a cca, something flooded battery’s don’t have at all because of high internal resistance. I have 4 banks. When I hit the boost switch , I have 4270 cca on tap. Also if the chassis batteries are dead for whatever reason, the house batteries supply 2620cca wirh the boost, twice what is needed .

I don’t know where “here” is but generally they (gc2agm) are at about 1/4 of the Sams clubs East of the MS river (the last time I looked). Use the sams club app to examine inventory are various clubs. I’ve seen them at Lady Lake, Fl, hattisburg , Ms, Meridian, ms, Latham, ny. There was also a Trojan dealer at the SEA rally in Fl in February that was selling their agm gc2 for the same price as the Duracell. I don’t know their name but maybe someone does. Anyway you don’t have to pay 300 for them .

I’m running duracell gc2 agms from sams club where they are $179. They are going on six years and still work great. Never going to flooded again. Might be ready to try lithium next time depending on price .

Bill, Call Paul Wittle at (678) 772-3847. He was building a module . Let me know if he has them. He said at the gathering that he thought he could build some for $125. That would be a good spare part. Also have you tried resetting the board . Is the gate stuck open? Put both switches to the left for 30 seconds I think and then return the right hand switch to the middle. Does it close ? bill g 06 Dynasty

I suppose it depends on the alternator . My coach has very low internal resistance with 10 agms. My 200a Leece N does not seem to mind . Lithium would be even somewhat lower. If the alternator is designed properly, it won’t harm itself. Might it harm itself at low rpm? Don’t know . Been running with agms for 6 years no issue. Internal resistance is about 2.5mohms .

I like the 48v batteries I got for 300ea, 25ah, 1.28kwh. I think I can get them new for that or maybe less. About size of group 27, at 25lb, 16s w bms. I’m pretty sure one could reconfigure for 100ah , 12v . The company is using them in a lifepo4 powered zero turn Lawn mower as best I can tell . Seem very high quality.

I found new ones cheaper , 234$ per kWh. And high quality. GM was paying LG about 140$/kWh and the price of lifepo4 is on it way to 100$ per kWh in the next couple years..:: perhaps sooner. But I would have no issue with building one up.

I’ll be in Florida, Tampa super able, SEA fmca and monacoers gathering .

Supposed to be.

I would think it would be plenty, especially if you have flooded batteries currently. Make sure your charger has the ability to support the cc/cv charge algorithm used by lithium batteries. The cc rate would be 100a max and cv of 14.6v. You might also have to set the voltage that it picks back up at. Float would be 13.8v. I see the current magnum chargers support cc/cv with the arc remote. I don’t know much about Victron but think they support lithium too. If you are trying to use an old xantrax I’m not sure that would work to well. Just don’t know. bill G 06 dynasty.

Bob, By Daily Harvest I am talking about Is energy, typically expressed in WH or kWH captured per day. A wh meter can be obtained on amazon for as little as 15-20$ that you can attach to the panel Input to your controller or it’s output. Hall effect is fine but shunt is cheaper and doesn’t take much power. A rule of thumb is 1 kWh per day for each 250w of panels you have on nice days. If you typically use say 6kwh per day of energy, then 1500w of panels would be nice to have. Bill g 06 dynasty

Dwayne Lindsey had one. He can tell you all about it. He had a lot of trouble with it. bill g 06 dynasty

Yes. You need a charger that can charge it like a Victron inverter Charger. It may be that the newer magnums can also .. I just don’t know. $1499 on amazon. Weighs less than 100 lb. If you have 8 gc2 you would lose about 450lb in the exchange. I have a lithium conversation going on FB. I don’t profess to have all the details regarding using with coach. I like what i see a lot.