My Girard door awning stopped working months ago.  I had tightened it up so that it closed flush.  It worked after doing this for a short time, then stopped altogether.  I can’t hear a motor running when I press the button to extend it. The button on the panel lights up when pressed.  Fuses appear to be good. I’ve heard there is a concealed panel in the front cap overhead that contains fuses or relays, but my coach doesn’t have this.  I tried loosening up the closing strength in the hopes that that might get it working, but that did nothing. 

Anybody have any suggestions?  I hate to hire someone, but I’m at a lose. I’ve been told not many RV techs know how to repair Girard awnings.  Any truth to that?

That first link might be the right board. Here is mine. 
 

1 hour ago, Pampero said:

Monaco had same weird ideas about installing electronics. Why install an unprotected circuit board in a wet area?

There is a few systems out there very cheap that you may be able to adapt.

I will like to see how your plugs into the cables and we can make recommendations.

It is unfortunate that Monaco would put an unprotected electronic panel in the wet bay.  Here are pics of the male/female connectors. Thanks. 
 

30 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

I know this isn't exactly what you're looking for... but thinking outside the box...

Seelevel gauges will let you feed two monitor panels off the same set of sensors. So, if you're not happy with the original gauges, might not be a huge task to change it all out.

Cheers,

Walter

I may have to do that, since it appears KIB no longer makes this monitor board. 

15 hours ago, Roger S said:

I’m not so sure that the problem is the radio. I experienced poor reception with the Magnadyne. However, we replaced the Magnadyne with the same SoundStream radio as shown in Rob & Amy’s post and had the same poor reception. I think the problem is the rubber ducky antenna on the roof. I need to do some testing and wire chasing to see if I can find the problem or just replace it. I think that will be a good winter project.

Roger
2006 Endeavor PDQ

The poor reception could be the fault of the rubber antenna. I intend to replace it with a metal antenna, to see if that helps. They are relatively cheap. If that doesn’t help, I’ll replace the Magnadyne. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007HRVK94/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_6?smid=A35NDGS1SZBSYR&psc=1

14 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 I suspect it is moisture in the cable , moisture has plagued auto antennas for yrs .

Motorhome reception seems to always be weak though .  I have considered taping a long wire to the roof as an antenna to see if that helped .

Thanks.  I’ll check that out.
 

My coach is all steel framing. One would think if the antenna is attached to the framing, my whole coach becomes an antenna. 

Off tropic, but has anyone had any luck improving the reception of the OEM Magnadyne radio?  The reception is awful even in the city.

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I am of the Buggy Whip school.  Flooded 225 Amp Hour Trojan T-105's are my choice.  SOME of the Monaco's came with the TALL batteries... if you do the math on them the  GC-2's are way more economical.  The additional 20 - 25% that you get from the taller one's costs you 3 times (memory) the $/Amp Hr for the incremental difference.  Plus the backache of installing or removing them.  May have changed....but finding the GC-2

Now, many of our older members actually talked to the design engineers (or perhaps the Pillow Arrangers as out dear Colonel called them).  The reason, I believe that the batteries are all in one area is two fold.  One is the rear axles are easier to carry the load.  If you added in the weight of the cranking batteries to the front axle....that would probably be an additonal 150 pounds.  On the Camelots and some similar ones, we run at 95% of the weight due to the fuel cell size and placement.

Second....there would be a very long run of cabling to charge the batteries and you would also have the potential voltage drop (cable length loss) from the front to the rear....where the Charger/Inverter is located.  If you snoop around and look at the Rear Run Bay, it is very compact and your Big Boy solenoid or Battery Boost and BIRD Charging device is there.  That would be a monster to install and have BIRD charging if they were up front.

As to Charging Rates....Magnum's Default settings (via the remote or from the defaults built into the Inverter itself..)..80% Charging.  I have a busted Remote and had to do a factory reset of my inverter until I could get a replacement.  The rest includes the basics.  80% Recharge Rate and 450 Amp Hours Size (capacity) and FLOODED for the type.  If you read the Magnum inverter manual or the Remote manual, the programming sequence calls out the "Default Values" for every programmable parameter.  Obviously the Remote has MORE options and the ARC vs the RC-50 has different levels of settings.

One SHOULD check the program on a NEW (to them?) MH and verify what is set and where.  Typically, Magnum will over the phone walk you through the settings.  MOST choose NOT to enable the SEARCH WATTS function of 5Watts.  SOME disable and some set higher.  Magnum can explain as "recommend".

As to LIFE....no one has mentioned the basics.  Unless you do a lot of boondocking, then once a year or maybe 2X per year, you need to DRAW down the batteries or exercise them.  That keeps them TUNED UP and they will last longer.  Trojan goes into detail when you call.

Also maintaining the Electrolyte level is critical.  It should be about 1/2 to 2/3's of the distance between the TOP of the plates and the bottom of the well.  Trojan ships theirs at 75% to make sure that they don't evaporate.  

The easy way...  Use a 350 watt load (small heater or a work light) and charge up the batteries.  Test the Electrolyte with a Hydrometer with a SCALE....Floating balls don't get it.  record the values and the individual or the Series connected pair.  Make sure the level is ok.

THEN....drain them down and monitor the actual Voltage (assuming that you test each).  When you get 6.0 VDC, then stop.  That is about 50%.  NOW....when you stop, the batteries will have to stabilize for an hour or so....or you have to disconnect the load.  The 6 VDC is the OPEN (no load) Voltage.  When fully charged, the voltage will be (memory) 6.36 VDC and the Specific Gravity will be 1.278.  

Each time you drain them, assuming they are not shorted or have not been abused, they will improve.  After 3 cycles.....what you read and see...freshly charged....is the BEST you will get.  typically, a set of well maintained Trojans will delivery 90% of the SOC when they are about 5 - 6 years old.  May drop to 80% at 9 or so.  

That is WAY more poser than is needed to safely operate a Res Refer for 24 hours....assuming you do a 3 Hr Genny Run (or shore) every 24 hours.  SO, unless you are a boon docker....then a properly maintained set of Trojans will last a long time.

UNFORTUNATELY....not so, or so says many experienced techs.  LazyDays techs said that when a customer brings in a set of Interstates that were run down and had low electrolyte level, there was maybe a 20% chance of salvaging (refilling, recharging, load drain, etc).  However, there was an 80% chance with the Trojans.

Trojan T-105's sell in the $100 - $120 range....which is usually price competitive with the UPPER END 225 AMP HOUR Interstates.  NOW....some will say that Costco or others sell them way cheaper.  I bought one for a golf cart.  YES...cheaper.  But, if you looked at the plate data....it was about 190 Amp Hours and the weight was less than the specs (from the Interstate website) of the REAL TOP END 225 amp hour ones.  SO....compare before you buy....make certain that you are getting the original Interstate OEM battery or the best one.  Monaco, I THINK used them...

My understanding.....others might differ....

A word of caution....and some may have evidence to the contrary.  if you abuse or have a charging issue with an AGM, then you likelihood of toasting it is HIGHER....  Don't know about the Lithiums.  SO....if your constantly monitor and full understand (like having the Magnum BMK installed and KNOW what you are reading and WHAT it is telling you and FULLY understand HOW the 3 stage Charging works and such...THEN you are probably "Battery Smart ENOUGH" to purchase AGM's .  If all the above is Greek and you don't know a BMK from a BLT, then read....otherwise....Flooded may be the best for you.

ONE FINAL thought.  Several members here, including me, use the Water Miser Caps.  They will prevent electrolyte loss.  They are cheaper than the self filling system.  SO....adding them is a wise and cost effective choice... I barely add water to mine....

Lots of good points there. I’ve been debating whether to replace my 1.5 year old flooded Duracell batteries with lithium. We plan to boondock some next winter in the desert, but generally we don’t boondock much. So I hate to spend so much money, when flooded are so cheap relatively speaking and so reliable. 

3 minutes ago, RustyTools said:

I mounted the board pretty high up on the firewall above the genset (so it's not actually 'inside' the coach), and spliced in additional wires for it to reach to there.

That’s on my to do list. Thanks. 

15 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

My coach came with the 8 house batteries with 4 of them being in the rear compartment. The reason that the second set of 4 are in the rear compartment is because they were an option. When not ordered this allowed this rear compartment to be used for storage. The extra 4 batteries were provided when a residential fridge was chosen as an option. From my experience with my setup is that they last a lot longer than 4 years if maintained and charged properly. Regarding the longevity of the steel trays I coated mine with 2 coats of POR-15 and this has made them stay like new for years. A key to this is also setting the charge rates properly. When I got the coach the settings were too high and it boiled the batteries when charging. With the correct settings this is eliminated 

Good points. Thanks  

Are you setting the Charge Rate at 80%?  I had some battery acid on mine, but I suspect it was caused by my overfilling.

Do you know where I can buy a battery slide tray for my aft compartment?  

22 minutes ago, RustyTools said:

Here's hoping you get it resolved soon.

My control board(s) were mounted on the underside of the step assembly itself.  I went thru 3 or 4 boards over the years, til I got smart and re-located the most recent board inside the coach and out of the rain, dirt, slush, debris, etc, kicked up by the tire.  No problems since.

 

That is a very good idea. Where in the coach did you mount it and where did you find the electrical connectors to extend the wires?  

I’ve seen the configuration in higher end Monacos where all eight House batteries are in the big battery compartment and the two chassis batteries in aft compartment. 

My plan is to switch house to lithium rather than add four more flooded batteries, but my flooded house batteries are only 1.5 years old. 

17 hours ago, daveyjo said:

I am stymied.  My electric step on my 2005 HR Scepter quit working.  The step itself works when powered up using just a battery, so clearly the motor is OK, and my diagnosis is that the controller has failed (corrosion of wires at circuit board resulted in wires coming loose from board.  Resoldering didn’t fix it.)  So I bought a replacement board from Veurinks.  Board is a Electric Step Control Module REV  164889  and is a rectangular one – not the one that has a triangular mounting plate as part of it and is for steps newer than 2006.  It seems like that is the only one available for Quickee steps prior to about 2006, and it looks like and connects the same as my old one.  In every picture I see of the Quickee step, mine looks like the Quickee.

The new board installs perfectly, but it doesn’t work.  I finally dug out a Quickee trouble shooting guide and went through it.  In step one, the step activated but when it was supposed to retract, it extended.  If I reverse the 12V power leads going to the step motor, it retracts ok but the connector doesn’t fit correctly.  Proceeding on with the troubleshooting guide, it just doesn’t work right, either with the motor power correctly hooked up or even reversed.  The troubleshooting guide says it is a defective module.  But the module is brand new.  I can’t even try the “last man out” feature of the guide because I can’t get the step in the right position to try it.

 Have I just got a defective board, or did I buy the wrong board?  Any advice would be welcomed.

 Dave Jones        

Do you have a volt meter?  I would use it to confirm you have power to the module and coming out of the module. 

Did you check your door connections. See my post above, as one of mine failed an caused the step to quit working. Spiced in new connector and step works. 

You might call Lippert and get advice on the new module you have. I found their customer service to be excellent. The tech was on the phone with me for half and hour. We went through everything. 

1 minute ago, Mel S - '96 Safari said:

Dale n Deb

Most auto part stores have then in stock.. (no need to wait).

Not my experience. I took my old motor to AutoZone, Murray’s, and Advanced Auto. None had it and it cost me a lot of time as the counter guys searched for it. I was in Pigeon Forge TN. So, maybe in a larger city they’d have it. 

5 minutes ago, BWatters said:

A lot of good advice above.  My buddy's '98 Monaco steps were acting up so I did what little diagnosis I could do.  The electric and motor seemed fine so I removed, disassembled, and found some worn parts in the gear.  Somewhere I found on the web that these parts could be replaced with nuts.  So that's what I used and his steps have worked for three years now.   Pictures attached.

I’m surprised these nuts work. 

13 hours ago, Dale n Deb said:

My hubby took the motor off and opened up the top. There were broken pieces inside. We checked 3 different places today and no one had a replacement motor. Those that got a Taurus window motor, what year was it? Each years seems to be a little different.

I found the auto parts stores were of no help. I ordered the motor from Amazon. 

A quick an easy way to check if the motor is the problem or not, is apply external power to it. To do this get under the coach and find the 2-wire coming out of the motor to a connector,  leading to the control module. Disconnect and apply 12 VDC to it.

I merely used jumper cables with one end attached to my toad’s battery and inserted two wires into the connector and attached to the other end of the jumper cables. The motor if working properly, will cycle the steps in and out.

Be careful to keep any part of your body away from the step and make sure you have proper jacks or whatever,  in the event the coach lowers itself, if you have air leveling. 

You will see the control module mounted adjacent to the step. It is a black plastic box with lots of wires coming out of it. This module is sometimes the culprit as it is exposed to the elements.  Release the two connectors and the ground wires removed and the 3-4 screws holding the module removed, and the module will be in your hand. Make sure the ground connection is clean. I could open mine up to see the circuit board. I found it slightly damaged. Checking continuity of the soldering lines on the board, I found 2-3 damaged. You could replace the board or try adding solder to repair, which I did successfully. 

There is also a fuse under the passenger armrest tied to the step switch.  open up that compartment and put a small light in there  Find the wires running from the back of the door switch to a black plastic inline fuse container  open it up and pull out the fuse.   I believe it is a 5 amp fuse. 

Another common problem are the door jam magnet circuitry. I found one of my electronical connectors on the coach jam was bad. The two on the door are just magnets. The two on the coach jam have current to them that completes the circuit when the door is closed. Using my volt meter I found one was bad. Replaced it and all worked well. Bought it on Amazon. 
by uxcell

6 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

It would be good to also look at the upper link.  It would not surprise me if you find the same problem.  To me it looks like someone tried to align the drive axle by elongating bracket holes and welding the nuts as shown in your pictures. This is not the proper way to do a drive axle alignment.

Hey Frank, do you think the bolt hole modification lead to the welds cracking?  

RIP

1 hour ago, Hypoxia said:

I don't see it as engine related.  Monaco did a poor job on a spot weld on the torque rod nut.   I think it would have failed on any chassis.

That’s the scary part.  

I spoke with a Sig owner at a park in Fort Myers in February.  I think his was a 2005 model year. He said Roadmaster failed to  proper bolt flange brackets to his rear H frame. He had complained about squirrelly handling after he bought it new, but it wasn’t until he found a good shop that the problem was found and corrected. 

I have the ISL and will be checking those areas. Thanks. 

I have a two year old Roadmaster Nighthawk on a 2013 CRV. I will be checking those bolts ASAP. Thanks for alerting us to this.