Pduggs

2 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

Mine was double-boxed but.....they didn't other to wrap the pump box in bubble wrap to keep it from flying around inside the new box. It did survive.

Here's a video of the pump in action (if you can see it)

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPLtkcv1qlVuuTLciwQ2aT9lh5kZjWacK8jA94k

I misspoke. I had the pump sent to my son’s home. He removed the outer box and packaging to check the pump, unbeknownst to me until just now. 
 

Bob I got an 404 error on your link.

I received my new replacement pump via Amazon. Again the box was not taped shut and with no packaging material to protect the pump. Whoever is shipping these pumps is an idiot. 
 

Bob was your pump sent to you in the same manner?

25 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

It's quite possible. There were quite a lot of reviews on Amazon about the pump's going into the stratosphere with respect to pressure. It could well be a case of the pump's pressure is incorrectly set so high it's causing the pump head to separate a bit. I'll know more shortly. 

The new Remco pump I installed (albeit with broken inlet port) per the OP, was very quite. I didn’t notice any air escaping from the pump head. 
 

I too bypassed the accumulator tank, which I had just replaced unfortunately. Remco states in one of their YouTube videos not to use the accumulator tank. 

My water lines coming to and out of the pump are flexible hose. 

3 minutes ago, Bobbyboy said:

Basically you need to use an ohm meter.  Not very hard to do.  There are several you tube videos that explain it.  You measure the ohms from the common terminal to  the other two terminals, individually.  then add them for total ohms;  then measure ohms between the two terminals (not the common)  and those ohms should be the same as the total from the other two readings.  Kinda hard to explain but that  is the best I can do.

 

Bob L, 08 dynasty

Thanks. I did see a YouTube by an RV tech do that very thing. I’ll give it a try. If the ohm readings don’t match, what does this mean?

On 6/21/2022 at 10:41 AM, Bobbyboy said:

Ok, here is my problem.  I am replacing my middle A/C on my 08 dynasty.  I have the 5 button Control Center (CC).  I am replacing a 15000 btu with the newer 15000 btu Penguin II.  My old a/c finally gave out; it was the original.  The problem is Dometic tells me that the conversion kit needed to make the new unit work with the 5 button is on back order for over a year with no end in sight.  Two questions:  The board in my old unit is still good; can I place it in the new unit and have the 5 button work???  If not, tell me what I need to do to get it working.  (I can't replace the 5 button because my other two units are newer and when they were put in the conversion boards were readily accessible so I am kinda stuck)

Help would be appreciated cause it is hot.  The problem with the old one is compressor, not the board.  Or does anyone have the conversion kit they want to sell.

 

Thanks,  Bob L, 08 dynasty

Hi Bob, can you tell me how you determined it was a bad compressor on the AC unit that failed?  My rear AC unit blows air but it’s not cold. I replaced the run capacitor and the coil solenoid, without success. 

2 hours ago, Bob Jones said:

This one below is well liked by a lot of people. I have used several of it's little brothers, the $98 Max-Flow Flow Max DS-01230-D2 and it's excellent. The 55 series is apparently their high end version.

SEAFLO 12V Water Pressure Diaphragm Pump 5.5 GPM (20.8 LPM) 60 PSI

The 55-Series is our all new heavy duty water pressure pump with the most heavy duty pressure switch on the market. It provides high volume water flow with reduced pump cycling and smooth flow thanks to the large five-chamber diaphragm. It provides up to 5.5 gallons per minute. The 55-Series pumps are self-priming, can run dry without damage, and are performance reliable. This automatic demand water system pump has a built-in pressure switch which automatically starts and stops the pump when the faucet is opened and closed. Easy to install service and winterize. This pump works best when paired with a SEAFLO Accumulator Tank.

Technical Specifications
Voltage: 12 VDC
Dimensions: 8.25" X 5.30" X 6.0"
Inlet / Outlet: 1/2″-14 MNPT
Flow Rate: 5.5GPM
Amps: 8.0 (17.0 Max. Amps)
Shut-off Pressure: 60 PSI
Weight: 6.1 lbs

That looks like a good pump and it’s $100 cheaper than the Remco. 

14 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

I bought the same pump from the same people on June 09 and it's still not here.....because of all the poor reviews I opted for the $15 two-year additional 3rd party warranty that Amazon offers. Also, because the Internet is FULL of posts from people that Remco denied warranty to regardless of where they bought it from. It seems that Remco's warranty is dependent, first, on returning it to the place you bought it, and then second, on their approval. So if you bought it from an RV store in Florida, and are in Washington state, they want you to return it to the store in Florida.....no kidding. Of the people that jumped through those hoops, it looks like about 50% of the claims were denied by Remco anyway......just an FYI.

You're lucky to get one so quick from Amazon. Like I said, mine is taking the better part of a month to arrive and the tracking is really screwed up so I can't even see where it actually is. This causes me to wonder if I'll be like everyone else and get a very beat up box with shipping damage. Apparently, if you're insistent, Remco runs the serial numbers on the pump, knows it was sold on Amazon, and who sold it, and then outright denies the claim. 

I hope mine shows up soon but I suspect this gong show may just be starting given the time it's taken and all the other people's experiences. You might want to consider leaving the appropriate feedback on Amazon about your experience and add it to the pile?

Thanks Bob. I suspect Remco knows exactly who is selling their product on Amazon. The guy I spoke to at Remco claimed they have complained to Amazon to no avail. That sounds fishy to me. Plus my call to Amazon CS, which by the way took all of 10 minutes to resolve amazingly, resulted in a new pump shipped to me at no cost. Is Amazon just taking pumps from this seller from the warehouse without the seller’s approval?

I installed the pump I received that was damaged and was impressed how quiet it was. 

6 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

This things:

1. You are welcome to post a link or picture.

2. I’ve had very good luck reaching out to Amazon about products that were past the return date (i.e., they’ve never told me “no”).  Once was a phone call and the other time was simply a chat with customer service.

Amazon is amazing. To give me a new pump after I bought it 8 months ago is amazing. 
 

Here is the pump I bought on Amazon which apparently is not sold by Remco, but is a Remco pump.

My OEM water pump has been making a lot of noise for a long time, but continued to work. I bought a replacement pump last October on Amazon (Remco Aquajet 55 5.3 gpm 12 vdc) which is the same pump as the OEM, but the names have changed. I didn’t install the new pump until yesterday. Unfortunately the pump was damaged during delivery, but I didn’t know this until yesterday. The inlet port plastic fastener is broken causing the pump to pull air and not pressurize my water system. The broken piece is part of the pump head and not fixable or replaceable. 
 

I call Remco the manufacturer of the pump and was told they don’t sell on Amazon. What? They can do nothing for me, but sell me a new pump. I couldn’t find a phone number for the Amazon seller, who claims to be Remco. Weird. 
 

I’m way past my return window, but my son says call Amazon and they’ll fix it. I do this and amazingly I’m to receive a new pump tomorrow at no cost. 
 

The reviews on Amazon have several people complaining about the the poor shipping. It comes in a flimsy box without any packing material to protect the pump and the box isn’t even sealed. My box was damaged and open upon delivery. 
 

I’m not sure if I can post a picture or link of the Amazon site I purchased the pump from. If site rules allow this, I can. 

I keep the height dimension on a yellow sticky stuck to my dash as a constant reminder. 

I completed school bus training to prepare me for driving a coach. I was always a good driver, but had never driven a large coach until five years ago. The School bus trainer required us to yell out bridge dimensions as we approached. 

2 hours ago, Chuck B 2004 Windsor said:

I remember a year or so back when this topic was discussed on the group.  A what I called "a matter of fact type female" who joined the group after she purchased a used Monaco coach with 7 year old tires on it.  Several members warned her about changing out the tires.  Her answer was that there was a lot of thread wear left on the tires.  

A week or so later she posted that she was traveling 70 mph when she blew a left front tire.  She crossed into on coming traffic hitting a car head on with 5 people in it.  How about bearing that burden for the rest of your life.

I keep my steers newer than the rear.
 

I seldom go over 65mph. Going 70 for prolonged periods sounds dangerous to me, though I’ve been passed by many MHs going 70 and more. Some of them gassers. 
 

About five years ago I saw a nice Dynasty in the park. As I walked by the coach along it’s driver’s side, the sun hit it just right. I could read the DOT. 2006!!! I tried to catch the owner but he was never around when I walked by. I can only suspect many motorhome owners aren’t tire aware.

17 minutes ago, Mark Holt said:

I would not do 5k on 7 year Goodyears or any other for that matter. No one can inspect a tire visually and guarantee safety.

Thanks. I’m undecided whether to replace or keep them for another year. They look great. No unusual wear, lots of tread left, and I always weight the coach annually and keep psi at the manufacturer’s suggested pressures. I know many DP owners replace at 7 years, but others go much longer. The RV Geeks went 10 years on theirs. 

The Goodyear on the steers showed obvious wear. Lots of rivering, so I replaced with Michelins a year ago. They seem to ride better than the Goodyear. The rear six are Goodyear and 7 years old. I checked them closely for wear, but I’m no tire expert. We plan to drive about 5,000 miles over the next year. Is there a way to confirm the tires are safe?

I miss my surround sound. It no longer works on the tv after I replaced the old Sharp with a new smart Samsung. I tried several times to get it to work without success. I still have the Sony OEM sound system. I think I’ll upgrade the whole thing, receiver and speakers as you guys have done. 
 

I kept my Magnadyne dash radio primarily because we seldom used it. However I found while driving I could hear the radio very well, with the speakers just overhead. As others have mentioned, I too am hearing impaired. Of course the reception was extremely poor. I finally got on the roof this Spring and opened up the rubber whip radio antenna. I found it wasn’t even connected. I connected it properly and now my reception is greatly improved. I think I’ll upgrade the radio speakers upfront to improve sound quality. 

For what it’s worth, my OEM plug had signs of melting. I replaced it with this one. I tried others but found them so cheap, I returned them. This one is very durable but it doesn’t turn 90 degrees. Easy install too. 
 

15 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Have you replaced the capacitors? If the issue is the fan not turning fast enough, it’s likely NOT the motor. As the rubber mounts age it lets the side of the squirrel cage blower rub the sheet metal housing. Getting it to move on the shaft can be fun, probably the hardest part in replacing the motor but all that’s need to speed the fan up,

I have three Dometic OEM AC units on the roof. All have worked well until recently. The rear and front units stopped cooling. We’re in south Florida, so not good.
 

Both units run and push air, but not cooling. 
 

I decided to have the local RV park tech take a look. MISTAKE!  I told him to check the run capacitor as I’d read they are likely culprits. He doesn’t do this however. He thinks it’s the thermostat, though my middle AC is working correctly off that same thermostat. He then thinks it’s the board in the AC unit. After several hours of screwing around, he finally checks the run capacitor. BINGO. He replaces it and all is well. Except it cost me $445. He wants to work on the rear AC now, but I told him no thanks. 
 

He told me he spent hours online searching for parts and talking to Dometic. He claims the board in the AC unit is no longer made.  He says Dometic suggests replacing with new AC units, not surprising. 
 

In five years of ownership, I’ve yet to find one RV shop or tech that I can trust. 

57 minutes ago, throgmartin said:

Richard:

 

Glad you made it back home. In time you will get the coach straightened around. Your Dynasty will have a TRW steering gear. Have it adjusted before throwing a watts link on it.

In regards to inspectors ? There are very few in the country that really understand DP's and how to do an inspection. They are very complex with many systems that need to be checked and tested. Finding one who knows all the systems is hard and when you do many prospective buyers wont pay the inspectors fee thinking it is exorbitant. I sent two of my tech's to Orlando to inspect an Entegra Cornerstone. It took them 4 solid hours to do a top to bottom inspection and they found over $ 15 K worth of deficiencies that needed to be addressed before the coach could be delivered. The coach was scheduled for delivery in a few days and it wasn't even roadworthy as it had no working tail, brake or headlights and wouldn't air up properly. The air leveling system was bad and a host of other things. It was the last inspection we did. Prospective owners who wanted to hire us balked at the fee. 2 - techs off sight for half a day got expensive for me and no one wanted to pay the fee. I lost money on that deal. I personally quit doing inspections as they are so time consuming and the payout isn't worth my time. I remember my last inspection. I was so thorough and found so many things wrong with a coach that a couple was buying from a dealer that the dealership owner told me not to ever comeback on his property. I tried talking my son into being an inspector as his DP credentials are off the charts - certified Cummins and Allison tech, Certified Spartan chassis tech, Certified air brake and leveling system tech, Aqua Hot tech and one of the very best coach electronic guys I have ever seen. He said the same thing - " People are too cheap to pay for a complete and thorough inspection by an expert. I wont do inspections. " I am sorry you found a dud. It happens all the time. I have to shake my head when people say " get your coach inspected before buying it ". Why bother when the majority of the inspectors do not know how to complete a thorough inspection ?

I am elated you got a coach that will work great for you two. I wish you many miles of safe and fun travels my friend. Call if you need anything. I am always here for you brother.

I agree Chris. I hired an inspector prior to buying my coach and he missed a bunch of things. Didn’t even bother to check the inverter, genset, or Aqua-Hot. Luckily none of the problems were significant. I won’t hire an inspector if I buy another coach, but now I have a much better understanding of how things work in a DP. 

You’ll find those Monaco hubcaps tend to fall off if not properly installed. 

You mention Josams. I was there two weeks ago for a front end alignment and grease front wheel bearings. Barry said pulling the wheel and repacking the bearings wasn’t necessary, as they’ve found the stock bearings last a long time. 

I was told my coach was ready after waiting 2.5 hours. I paid and went to the bay my coach still was sitting in. I was about to back her out, when I thought I better check the work, as my prior experience with RV repair facilities has been poor. Good thing I did. Both front hubcaps had dents in them and were covered in grease. Plus they weren’t installed properly and would have fallen off as soon as I hit the road. I asked the mechanic to fix them. The dents easily popped out and I watched him install them. While waiting for this to be done, I notice a handle sticking under my coach. The mechanic left a large floor jack under my coach. Luckily I didn’t drive over it. 
 

I still lost a hubcap. Ugh. 

Yeah I’ve seen Chris indicate that and it makes sense. Proflex isn’t silicone. 

I’ve done a lot of resealing on my coach. As Ivan suggested, I used ProFlex clear. I’m unaware of silver colored caulk. It may be clear caulk over your silver color. 

I did about four years ago. My OEM headlights weren’t faded, but were totally ineffective for night driving. Monaco used knock-off headlights that match up to headlights used by Ford, in my case. As you can see, they weren’t cheap. Plus I had to take the coach to an auto electrical shop for the install, after I failed to get it right. That cost me another $250. I don’t drive much at night but if I have to, I’m confident I have good visibility. Plus the new headlights give the coach a more modern look. 

 

17 hours ago, Jerry Olson said:

My 2000 Winsor seats are leather surface and vinyl on sides back,skirts and armrests. I had the leather seat surface repaired several years ago. He sanded and filled the cracks and recolored them. He told me before he started of the cracks pretty deep so it probably would not last forever, but they still look really good compared to what they did before the repair.

Very nice. Looks like new. I’m thinking mine are leather too, with vinyl on the rest of the chair. I’m not familiar with leather repair shops. What do they call themselves?

6 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

It went straight back, then a slight bend so it came out where it came out. Stock size pipe. ISX 525.

Okay. Not your motor, but your model Aqua Hot. My Aqua Hot is the model 600-D. I suspect yours is too. 

5 minutes ago, Paul A. said:

I had a new AQ exhaust pipe made up and ran it out the back of the coach. 10 years full timing and no issues. Note the chrome tip in the left corner area of the coach picture.

Nice!  Did you run the pipe on a straight angle from the exhaust outlet under the AH?  It looks like the pipe is a smaller diameter than mine. Maybe its just the photo. Do you have the 600-D?

45 minutes ago, willbo777 said:

When we replaced our AquaHot and put on a new exhaust pipe, we just had a muffler shop make up the pipe and it attached to the cast iron elbow from the unit with a u-bolt.

We were Wallydocked on our way to Florida from Michigan late last fall, with AH running to keep us warm. Wife woke up and woke me too, to diesel exhaust smell in the coach. We immediately shut off the AH and opened windows. It was cold, but the smell dissipated quickly. Next morning I turned on AH and checked the exhaust pipe. It was leaking exhaust under the coach. The pipe appeared to have cracked or weakened in several places. I sealed it with muffler tape, as a temporary fix. I plan to remove the entire pipe and take it to a muffler shop in the hopes they can make me a new one. Yours looks great.