Pduggs

Won’t the plastic ties melt?

2 hours ago, BradHend said:

@Agpopp Repairs are complete now.  New manifold, reman Holset VGT turbo, reman EGR valve and all new oil and coolant lines to  the turbo.  New rad hoses all around including the back to back metal 90 degree piece that I had made.  
Everything else I broke in the process as well (oil pressure sending unit, the 2 black metal coolant lines that feed the EGR cooler, the pipe that mates the EGR valve to the EGR cooler etc. etc.)

Did it all in my driveway.  Huge pain but I got it done. Learned a lot and did lots of reading. Made a few mistakes along the way, but realized them and corrected.  
I think it was 7 of the 12 manifold bolts had snapped on removal, 3 of which I was able to weld a nut on and turn them out, the rest unfortunately I drilled out. I ended up helicoiling 4 holes, 2 needed it and 2 I had to as the threads were stripped.  
Used RemFlex gaskets at the manifold and turbo connections.  Replaced all the banjo bolts, sealing washers and V-band clamps on that side of the engine.  Replaced all the Breeze spring loaded clamps for all the CAC lines. 
The few test drives I’ve done appear to be a success.  No more smoke, exhaust brake is nice and strong, lots of power on acceleration and it’s generating about 29lbs of boost with the hammer down and climbing small hills is not an issue anymore.  
Taking it up Tobermory way this weekend, hope all goes well.  
Thanks for your interest! 

What’s up with the white plastic zip ties and split rubber hose sleeve in second picture?

Does anyone know if the fluorescent light ballasts give up EMF or electrical interference when the light is disconnected from electricity?

My thought is to cut the electrical wires above the fluorescent fixture and splice direct to LED strip lights. Thus leaving the fluorescent fixture in place. 

I had an issue with my puck lights and called M&M RV Electronics for help. I believe it was Mike I spoke with and he asked me if I had the fluorescent lights still in the coach, which I did. He said replace them as they can cause interference with the Intellitec system. So, the switch to led lights makes sense in more ways than one. 

19 hours ago, KevinH said:

I reversed my slide topper material four years ago still looks good today.That wasn’t my intent when I started the project I just wanted to see if I could get the material off before I ordered new material. That’s when I discovered the material on the roller looked like brand new. 

Exactly what I did a few years ago. The white thread had come loose. I removed all four toppers and took them to a boat canvas shop. They used black thread, which they claimed was stronger than white, since white thread is bleached. 
 

I noticed the topper had fabric rolled up and not exposed to the elements. So I turned them around. 

If you have to remove the topper, this is the tool you’ll need to prevent the roller spring from unraveling. 
 

Can you hear the motor running?  If so, it’s likely the motor is shot. Plastic gear can break. Easy to replace and cheap. Do a search. Lots of threads on it. 
 

It could also be the module that sits close to the motor. Check for power coming in and out of the module. If no or little power coming out, it may need replacing. Its easy to replace but relatively costly. 

There is also an inline fuse behind the switch at the door.  Mine was inside the passenger armrest  

Make sure while your under there the coach is supported and keep all body parts and clothing clear of the steps. 

21 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I've always heard & believed that the multi-directional ants are not very efficient, I wish they were. 

The batwing ant is still the best IMHO, but you gotta have the wingman on it.  The wingman would not work for me because it hit the air cond.  So I mounted a King Jack ant in place of the batwing, in other words,  I still use the arms that go up & down.  I still have to raise & turn it but it works pretty well.  I don't like having to turn it but the UHF digital signals are very directional,  especially in remote areas.

Agreed. A couple years ago we were in a SP on the Michigan lakeshore of Lake Michigan across from Milwaukee. I picked up several Green Bay stations with the batwing. That’s a distance of about 100 miles as the crow flies. Granted there are no obstructions, but I thought that was pretty amazing. 

I love my motorized batwing, if only I could get it to raise and rotate as it once did. It worked extremely well and still does, even though I have to get on the roof to raise it manually. I’ve had it apart several times and will continue to use it. 

We’ve decided to keep the Dynasty and do some interior redecorating. Thanks to all who responded. 

35 minutes ago, hex_nut said:

I was faced with the same issues a few years ago.  To upgrade our current coach or look for a newer more modern coach.  We looked around, but did not find anything that came close to the quality of our Monaco built Beaver.  I was not impressed with anything from the REV group.  Nor would I consider anything from Thor or Forest River.  We updated our old Beaver and have been very happy with the result.  We do have to keep our significant others happy, but I would certainly be hesitant to trade off what is a known good quality coach for a pig in a poke.

Just my 2 cents.

Richard

I know we’re biased toward our Monaco coach’s.  I never intended to trade, but the DW has started voicing a desire for a newer coach.

Hesitant is a good word to describe my feelings. I know my Monaco is good and we’re preparing to winter in southern CA from MI.  I have no concerns it will make it there and back without incident.  

I have to say I was impressed with the 2016 Eagle we looked at. It was beautiful inside and looked to be high quality throughout. I noticed the front door was way more solid and better designed than my Monaco. The exterior finish looked very good. However the basement wasn’t as tall as mine. I didn’t spend a lot time inspected it, as we were just looking. 

1 hour ago, DavidL said:

If you like your RV size and floorplan...why not just do a facelift like you would in your sticks and bricks?

We’re considering that. We do like our floor plan. We are debating replacing carpet, kitchen backsplash, and valances.  My fear is this won’t satisfy her. 

27 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Have a friend who has one, nothing but problems. Build quality is lacking compared to a Monaco. Charging system problems, full wall slide problems, toilet problems. The list just goes on and on. Don’t know about you, but I will keep my Monaco!

I’m leaning that way, but one does have to keep the DW happy. 

We’re considering selling our beloved Dynasty and purchasing an AC Eagle or Dream 2016-2018 vintage. This is primarily due to the DW wanting a more modern decor. I’m reluctant to do this since I love my Dynasty and know her so well. Plus I’ve seen some rather negative reports on AC/Rev Group quality. We really like the full wall slide, bath and a half, and decor of the AC. I’d like to keep doing the full time life style and need the DW happy to do so. 
 

Has anyone else considered buying an AC and have any thoughts on quality?

6 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Wow!

Whoever is greasing your chassis is pumping half a cartridge in that one grease fitting!

Whoever it is should have wiped off all that excess grease!

Speedco. 

I can see what looks like grease in the slot above brake pads. Is that supposed to be there?  
 

Doing a chassis inspection this morning I noticed this. Looks like grease on hubs and brakes. I popped the hubcaps and they were clean on the backside. Oil level in window was okay, but a little low on DS. No evidence of grease on chrome wheels. 

If I need to get seals replaced, where would you take the coach to get this work done and what is the likely cost?

On 7/17/2023 at 8:11 PM, oregondarrell said:

Any recommendations for slide topper purchase and installation in the Eugene area.

Noticed the stitching is failing and will need to replace soon.

Any help/info appreciated.

Darrell Terry

 

My toppers were frayed on the sides, where the thread had failed. I removed all four and took them to a boat canvas shop. Had them re-sewn with black thread, which I was told was much stronger than white. Then I installed them turned around. Much of the fabric was never exposed to the elements, as it was always on the rollers even when slides were extended. That was five years ago and still looks good. 

I’ve used this for a few years now. Two coats per year. It holds up very well with no chalking and streaking. I keep it simple. Apply it with a microfiber pad on a broomstick and buff it using with another broomstick and microfiber pad. 
TR Industries-CW-32 Gel-Gloss RV...

TR Industries-CW-32 Gel-Gloss RV Cleaner and Wax with Carnauba - 32oz. https://a.co/d/eyoLo46

She look’s pretty good for an old girl. 
 

I used that video to replace mine a few months ago. Very helpful and fixed my intermittent problem with wipers and cruise control not working. 

My AC is still not working and E7 error code still shows up on the thermostat. 

What I did…I tied the three hot, common, and ground wires together using the pictured connectors. Washer and dryer work. Do I need to do the same thing in the Intellitec transfer box above?  See pics. 

50 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

I replaced the skylight on my Dynasty last year. I noticed in the video above that there was two layers of skylight one clear and one tinted. When I removed mine it was just one tinted skylight and that’s what I put back on. I don’t know if was the original skylight but did they come from the factory with two layers? 

My 08 Dynasty has two layers. I just replaced mine after absentmindedly stepping on it. It was very brittle, so needed replacing anyway. 

Mike replaced his. 

You may recall I had all three AC units with heat pump replaced in January by a dealer in Florida. Of course the dealer couldn’t get my Aqua-hot to work properly with the new CCC2 thermostat, but thanks to Frank and Tom I got it working.
 

Well now the rear AC unit quit working with error code E7, lost of electrical power.  I know this has been discussed a number of times over the years here and on IRV2. I tried several things that were discussed, but no success. The other two units work.
 

Things I tried…cycled the circuit breaker on and off a few times, shut power off at pedestal and coach disconnect switches, reset thermostat, ran my 10k genset for power, shut off the front two units and just turned on the rear, but still E7 code is triggered every time.

Anybody have any other ideas I can utilize to try an fix this myself?

On 5/29/2023 at 11:26 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Forgive me for sort of "HIJACKING" this thread to bring up a very important TOPIC.  SANITATION.  Each has to make up their own minds about how to dump.  I like the convenience...and will stick with it.  BUT...there is also something important to be pointed out regarding "Dumping" that has hit home to me....and it might, as we age, impact others.  So, this will be long....skim....but BE AWARE of the precautions one should take if they dump and rinse a conventional sewer hose WITHOUT the proper PPE....long sleeves and gloves and glasses.....  YES, I was a retired Safety Director and that is what we taught our Water Treatment system operators to do when the worked on equipment or used pumps or hoses or such....which was a routine event.  

I have TWO friends that almost died from a bacterial infection.  One is the EX GM of our local HR dealership and is a close friend and got me into motor homing.  The other is a retired school teacher whom I was best man at her wedding as I roomed with the groom.  They parted and we have been close to her ever since and she uses me as a "What do I DO?" on a variety of subjects.

The issue is also HIGHER NOW on my LIST.  I am successfully and speedily recovering from a Left Shoulder replacement.  Many of you MIGHT need a new "Joint" (LOL....) as you age or have issues.  I was totally active and was not good to a shoulder that I fell on in 1968 and and waterskied (deep water slalom start) until I was 70.  Fortunately, my rotator cuff was (is) in excellent condition, so I got the less risky "Typical".

My Surgeon had a long talk with me before releasing me a few weeks ago....I am still in an intense PT program and my PT lady also gave me the same lecture.  All this is from those conversations....plus some reading that I did. The number one issue for me, personally, now is risk of a major infection.  Therefore, I WILL have to have an antibiotic prior to any dental work...including routine cleaning.  The mouth...per both my dentist and surgeon is where MOST of the infections that impair or endanger an artificial joint comes from.

I am also a bit MORE at risk as I have a higher tolerance (built up immunity) to penicilian.  As a child, my family GP thought that a shot would cure the common cold and I did have some issues with inflamed tonsils and such.  But he also gave it to me when a bout or two of poison oak got REALLY red, infected and swollen.  SO, I have to have a higher dose to kick out a sinus infection.  I KNOW that and can give specifics to any medical person....which is GOOD....

OK....my surgeon said that he has had to redo a few joints.  What he means....you take them out....and put in a "Med Pack" for at least 10...up to 30 days.  That means that joint is totally immobilized and THEN, you have to heal....and then get a NEW joint....which takes a special (usually) kind and a longer surgery and more recovery...   OK>>>>>my friend, the Motorhoming guy, often arranged caravans.  We went to Greensboro with 5 or so rigs for the ACC Basketball Tournament.  He had needed a knee and was on his 3rd year or so...pushed the recovery (Type A) but was fine.  He cut some downed trees and brought the firewood for our "steel fire pit".  I recognized the vines and we did not burn them.  BUT, he had already developed a bad case of poison ivy on the leg that had the new knee.  I don't exactly KNOW how the contact area was on on his upper thigh....maybe wearing shorts as the weather was changing.  He was wearing jeans and it looked like he had wet his jeans from the crotch down to the knee on the "outside".  He finally went to his GP and they hospitalized him.  The poison ivy had turned into a massive infection.  They could not control it.  They had to remove the knee and immobilize him.  Then he got a new knee.  But, he needed, a few years later...a shoulder.  OPPS.  one of the side effects of a massive infection, per my surgeon....is a Nickel allergy.  This is a bit more common and many folks (used to be females) can't wear SS ear or other piercing jewelry...only GOLD...and sometimes Sterling.  

That meant he had to have a Titanium Shoulder and they had to swap out, third knee joint, his old one for Titanium.  BTW...I have a 10" Titanium plate in my left leg and 9 or so screws....

Bottom line, he is not as mobile as he used to be and has other health issues from the infection.  He was told NOT ever to DUMP a MH sewer without a Hazmat suit.  A little over the top....but any open sore or cut or whatever can go off the rails and a person with replacement joints can be at risk.

During my discussion, my surgeon also pointed out the risks of Cellulitus.  

https://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/cellulitis/symptoms-causes/syc-20370762#:~:text=Cellulitis (sel-u-LIE,face%2C arms and other areas.

My retired school teacher friend had to walk a half mile for a concert and that caused a blister on her heal as she was planning on parking across the street.  Not a big event....and THEN.  Within a week, she developed Cellulitus....and it got worse....big time swelling of her leg from the foot up to the knee.  Painful and HOT to the touch.  She is not one to run to a doctor every time she sneezes...so she put it off.  He put her into a hospital and they treated her for a few days.  WHAT he did not know, nor she think it pertinent....nor was in her records....her Dentist had been giving her an antibiotic for 30 plus years (2 X year) due to a "Heart Mumur".  I talked to my dentist and he said that the ADA had changed that recommendation many years ago...but some dentists were of the "old school".  Therefore, she had a tremendous tolerance....or any antibiotic would have to be specially formulated or such to be effective.

She did not do well....and ended up for a week's stay with a 3 hour drip for 5 days after a specialist exhausted his "tricks" and went way out of the norm.  What the specialist did not know....  She is a cat lady.  She has maybe 5 or so and they are house trained, but also are in and out.  I finally connected the dots and my surgeon confirmed my logic.  My surgeon had a patient that got a cat scratch on his leg.  That went directly to a major infection....and the removal and treatment and replacement.....from the patient having Cellulitis.  Cats cover this wastes and god knows WHAT an outside cat gets into. Her cats were all over the furniture and she had her shoes off when resting on the sofa and the bacteria, most likely from her cats, got into the blister and that took over and she did not get it treated quickly and then had issues so that a special cocktail was needed.  Fortunately, she recovered.

BOTTOM LINE>>>>>

Be aware of the risk, as you age, of routine cuts or scratches and infections....and if you are like me and have a high tolerance....the major risks.

SO....I will never use a Slinky Stinky again...no matter how careful I am.  I will use, as I really should, gloves from now on....even though my Sanicon does not require the rinsing of the hose....

As Jimmy Buffett said (without due credit to Betty Davis)....  Growing OLD ain't for Sissies....  

Do as you see fit...be be aware of the need for increased PPE when you use a conventional dumping method and also if you have my "got a shot every month" background or get (or have) an artificial joint....

END of RANT....stepping down carefully from the podium....

 

 Valid points Tom. Thanks. What I really liked about the Sanicon was not cleaning out a stinky slinky and having to stow it. The only connect was screwing and unscrewing the cap on the end of it. 

On 5/27/2023 at 2:08 PM, Ivylog said:

97.33 hours! Actually I have no idea as the rig was 10 years old when I bought it and I haven’t used plus no hoses came with it. I know the original owner and 6 month out of the year it was gravity fed. Other 6 months it was usually in storage. There’s a couple pieces of hair on the impeller. 3 of the mounting eyes are broken off…. $100 including shipping.

 

Thanks Ivy but I think I’ll stick with the old style dump hose for now.