Pduggs

All I really need is the pump, plastic box, and grey water bypass connection. 
 

Is yours original to your coach and how many years of use?

1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

I’ve never had to use mine, even to pump uphill. After waiting in line to dump behind someone using one,…took for ever, I have one for sale.

Hey Ivy, I’m interested in buying your Sanicon. I’ve got all accessories so it might come in handy when like Tom mentioned, a long distance to the sewer connection is required. My gravity dump hose is only 15 feet. 

Can you send my details?

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Hair is a major issue.....not just in OUR Sanicon's but in large (think 25 HP macerators).  The best fix is to pop out the perforated drain cap or plate in the shower.  Then drop in a SS mesh bowl drain.  Amazon or ACE or HD or Lowes has them.  I bought mine locally, but the diameter will be around 1.75 - 2".  The Flexible SS mesh bowl will collect hair.  This is more of a problem for shedding pet owners or GD with long hair (LOL) or wool area rugs.  The wool in our two area rugs just "fuzzes" up.  It then will clog quicker.  I usually wipe the bowl out about every 5 showers.  Not a big deal....but it sure beats having to tear apart the pump

You can not (or at least a few years ago) purchase the pump head gasket (the one you change when you install a new impeller) separately.

The newer motor (14 GPM) works fine with the existing power feed.  BUT, if you go to the super swoosh model, you will definitely need to upgrade the power to a #10

Agreed. When I first bought the coach over five years ago, I was unfamiliar with the Sanicon. It took forever to dump. Then I read about the impeller. So I opened it up only to find an impeller completely worn down to nothing. It likely had never been replaced. Replaced it and cleaned it up, then it worked fine. 
 

I too used a stainless steel mesh in the shower to collect hair, after my first tear down of the Sanicon. Hair was all over it. 

14 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

If you like the macerator that much then I would purchase the Thetford Sani-Con Turbo 400s Turbo model plus beef up the wiring to handle the extra power.

https://www.thetford.com/product/sani-con-turbo-400s-permanent-bayonet-mount/

I like the Sani-Con Turbo 400s Turbo and know it’s the best choice but at $400-$500, I think I’ll stick to the gravity dump and save a few bucks. 

I ordered a new pump on Amazon. The Shurflo 3200-001 12V Macerator pump.  However I’m considering using the slinky as I’ve always carried it onboard, just in case. I was surprised how quickly it dumped my full grey tank. So, I may return the ordered pump. 

It must have been original to the coach. It gave great service for a long time. The motor gave up the ghost. 
 

I’m debating whether to go with the gravity dump, though I liked pressing a button to dump tanks and don’t relish going back to cleaning a stinky slinky.  
 

What have others done when their Sanicon died?

4 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

You never know, the original owner of Paul's Dyn may have read the owners manual and replaced the factory installed ATF with AW-46.

My manual says AW-46, but it isn't!

Based on what I’ve seen, I don’t believe the original owner ever touched the hydraulic filter or changed the fluid. 

1 minute ago, Tom Cherry said:

Bingo.  MONACO reverted back, but the ever knowing “Jim” in tech support swore up and down that it was ONLY ATF used after 05/06.  He even commented that my owners manual was wrong as those idiots that wrote them didn’t get out to see what was going on.  I refrained from saying the folks that were building should MILT”f”P more….Make It Like The Print….

You are the second Dynasty with the single filter reservoir and no pressure filter and AW46…. I’ll wager a nickel that you have the ISL 425.

AS I said, no consistency….we, here, probably analyze and debate more than the Monaco folks did…

Thanks…

I do have the ISL 425. 

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

I’m assuming that you do NOT have the Pressure Filter.  I was told this also….but thanks for the confirmation…..  

NOW….do you have the straw colored AW46 or the RED ATF?

 

AW46

6 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

FWIW….Monaco was totally inconsistent.  

Typically the larger 3 filter Nelson reservoir did NOT come with the spin on Hydraulic filter with the pressure gauge.  These were used on most of the coaches, i don’t think model, dependent until circa 06/07.  Everyone told me i was crazy when i posted that i had only ONE filter circa 2011/12.

Mine has the smaller reservoir with the single filter inside, but does have the pressure filter/Guage.  I have ATF and have never seen any movement in the gauge.

OK….BUT, I have been told that some models that, after the conversion to the smaller single filter reservoir, only had the single filter reservoir and NO Pressure Filter.  That one, i think, had AW46.

ALL have or should have had or must have the reservoir….odd’s are…Ben has the smaller (maybe 2 gallons) SINGLE filter reservoir…

That’s just the way it is.  NOW…..were there some larger 3 filter reservoirs that DID have the additional pressure filter?  Maybe.

Trying to figure out why Monaco did something and the logic behind it is like trying to guess what will happen in Washington or what the “ensemble” will vote on or pass….or not pass.  LOL.

Suffice it to say that contaminated fluid or lack of filtration has not been a hotly discussed topic.  The only thing that comes up, and this is NOT for the lack of filtration, is the AW46 being prone to expansion at zero or so and blowing up the “CAC” stack as well as hoses.  The pumps fail, as would be expected….but not a high incidence item.  The “frequency” of changing such is highly subjective and the info in the manual is not in accordance with what TRW recommends for our lightly used steering boxes.

Mine had ATF.  I changed the filter around 20 or 30K.  I replenished, per TRW’ recommendation, the reservoir with Transynd.  Around 50K, i did the same.  I put in a new pressure filter at 30K.  The gauge was still high or in the green.  I used Transynd again.  I have a pressure filter, but chose not to change….. and will probably replace it in a year or so….past that….i worry not….

 

 

Mine has the big outside filter and one filter inside the reservoir. 

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Back several years ago there was a thread on belt line repair, someone suggested using these https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=scraper&category=2082&current=1

Long handles scraper from Harbor Freight, the worked great.  Different widths.  Didn't mare the paint and pulled the old caulk right out.  I've used them for other things since. 

I’ve used those too. Very effective in removing the old caulk. 

1 hour ago, David Pratt said:

Paul, All this is documented on the Wandering Thread on IRV2, but here is the backstory.

When Van started to pursue a fix for the Wandering issue on the Road Master Chassis his primary Focus was on Non Tag Axle Coaches. Van and I had several discussions on installing the Watts Link and the Rear Crossbars on a Tag Axle  Coach. My 05 Exec, I thought handled very well and Van and I agreed that it probably was the addition of the tag axle that made the coach more stable. At first I did not believe the addition of the Watts Link or the Cross Bars would Improve the Handling or make it more stable. Van was persistent and his Engineering Curiosity needed answers. I decided to use my coach as the guinea pig.

Van manufactured the Watts Link and Rear Cross bars for the Exec. We decided to install the Watts Link first and test it and then do the Rear Cross bars.

Well to my surprise The Watts Link made a huge improvement in the handling of my "I thought", good handling coach. What little Wandering the had prior to installing the Watts Link was gone. We took a 1200 mile trip around the South East after installing the Watts Link and I was amazed at how much more comfortable the coach was to drive. I also had the Blue Ox Tru-Center Stabilizer installed on the coach, which enabled me to change the steering center for winds and roads. The Watts Link actually enhanced the performance of the True Center Stabilizer.

The only negative I felt was that I could still feel the aerodynamic push from the air off a passing Semi. It was much less after the Watts Link Installation but I could still feel it.

After We got back form the trip I wanted to install the rear cross bars. Van at first did not think they would make much of a differance on a tag axle coach, but what did I have to lose.

After the installation of the Rear Cross Bars, we went on another 600 mile trip and the coach rode like it was on a set of rails. No more push from an approaching Semi, in fact I would not know a Semi was passing me unless I saw it in my mirror or when it passed.

So, to answer your question, If you do not have the Watts Link get it. It is a worth every penny.You will be very surprised how much better your coach will handle and a lot more comfortable to drive. Van and his Engineering Curiosity made a believer out of me and I am very grateful he convinced me to install the Watts Link.

You’ve sold me. We’re planning a 5000 mile trip this winter. So this improvement will be much appreciated. 

On 5/16/2023 at 3:46 PM, David Pratt said:

Vipeboy 2000

My 05 Exec was the guinea pig for the first watts link to be installed on a Tag Axle Coach. I did all the drawings and specs and sent them to Van. Van built the system. I installed the system myself. The center pivot bolt coming loose happened to me also. When I replaced the Bolt I installed a bolt that was 1/2 inch longer and put a doubled nutted the bolt. No problems after that.

I am attaching the Auto Cad Drawings of the Bellcrank Installation and also the parts list for the Watts Link System. Contact me if you need any further help or have any other questions. Cell phone is 321-427-6909.

Also, just curious as per your handle, do you own a Viper???

atts Link Installation.pdf 36.8 kB · 9 downloads

Bellcrank Drawing.pdf 233.28 kB · 9 downloads Bellcrank Mounting Plate.pdf 299.36 kB · 10 downloads Watts Link Materials.pdf 57.96 kB · 8 downloads Watts Link Pivot Installation Side view.pdf 153.96 kB · 7 downloads Watts Link Pivot Installation Top view.pdf 224.24 kB · 6 downloads

Hi David, did the Watts improve handling?  Did your coach wander before install?  I haven’t noticed any wandering with my 08 Dynasty, so I’ve not bothered to consider the Watts Link. 

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Double thanks for the update.  Frank gets two credits.  First for his continuing education of me, and others so that we can understand and help folks and not always burden him with that task.

Second is for doing the research on the Dometic site so that I could be of assistance and keep the fix “going”.

We do understand your concerns about “being smarter” than the tech that didn’t fully understand that if the old 5 button system had a Zone 4, then he needed to complete the job by replacing that control module as well.  Glad you were able to do it yourself.  You now have more knowledge and confidence.

Two things …

First, I assumed that the new CC2 thermostat had to be rebooted or reset.  Was that necessary or did you do that.  Knowing that will help when we start troubleshooting the new system.

Second, the most common failure or “my HVAC don’t work or is acting funny” is a communication issue in the dual inline female to female connections.  I have cleaned mine and probably should replace with the new spares I carry.  I would suggest that you order some on Amazon and have isopropyl alcohol (rubbing) and a few Q-tips in your “emergency” stuff kit.  Cleaning the male phone plugs will help,  BUT occasionally, there will be a failure in the phone lines and folk buy a kit and put on a new male end.  

Great job…enjoy….

 

I did reset the stat after I installed the new board. Zone 4 didn’t show up on the stat before, but after the reset it was there. 
 

Thanks for the tip on the phone plugs. 

I’d like to thank Frank and Tom for their help in solving this problem and apologize for being difficult. This problem was new to me and my only weakness in maintaining my coach is a lack of understanding electrical issues. 
 

As they stated above, the new circuit board from Amazon (Dometic part#3312020) did the trick. Making sure to match up the two blue wires is obviously important, as both gentlemen advised.  I merely removed the old circuit board and connected the two blue wires on the new board with the matching existing red and white wires on the connector, connected the two phone lines and the blue temperature sensor.  Heat is now working in my bathroom as it did prior to the installation of the new ACs and thermostat.

This was a very simple job which I made more difficult than it was.
New board on left in pic and old on right. 

Thank you!

I spoke with Dometic. They tell me this is the part I need. They referred me to Amazon to purchase. They weren’t familiar with my set up and didn’t sound very persuasive that it is right. Anyone have any thoughts on whether this is the right part?
 

My mistake. The above pictured part is not the part Dometic suggested. It’s this one. I couldn’t find it on Amazon. 
 

Thanks Tom. Frank did tell me about the hidden circuit board or “brain.”  Here is a pic of it. Part number is similar to that on the schematic you sent. I’ll call Dometic today. 
 

I don’t want to be unjustly harsh on the folks at The Motorcoach Store, but I’d have thought they’d know this. Is Monaco the only coach maker that used this design?

No.
 

The Motorcoach Store tech knows nothing about the hidden zone 4 controller. I emailed them a pic of it, but they claim it’s not necessary. They are now suggesting something is wrong with my AquaHot pump. Thus not their responsibility. Same old story with RV repair shops. 

I plan to call Dometic again to see if they can get me the correct control board. 

9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

YES…they WILL be different. .you need to look at your prints.  The AquaHot Zones in no way, rhyme or reason match the Zones on your thermostat.  The Heat or AH print is quite explicit and you can trace the HVAC zones directly to AH control panel. Just follow the thermostat line from each HVAC zone. 

Once you have that solved, the the next trick is to take the leads (thermostat wires) from a zone that is working….you can control it and you get heat.  Then pull the leads from the zone that does not work (Zone 2…I think…but verify).  Then use the thermostat that is working to bring one the errant zone,  IF a that works, you have an issue with the thermostat or more correctly, the HVAC controller that is supplying the signal or is supposed to,  if it does NOT work….then the issue is in the AquaHot system.

That is the easiest way to test and isolate WHY. 

What I’m not sure of or did not understand…If you have control or can turn on the errant HVAC Zone and the blower in the zone works, then you DO have have an AquaHot issue,  all the HVAC controller is doing is closing a set of contacts.  In reality, you could use a bent paper clip on each pair of the AquaHot “Thermostat” terminals.  What that does is then turn ON the appropriate pump.  The pump contacts are internal and controlled by the main control board.  There is a set of “Blower”or fan terminals.  These terminals go to the fan register(s) for that zone.  The board has a set of pump wires or terminals to control the right pump.

That, in a nutshell, is how it works….

Regardless, as Frank said, you MUST have the right control board for the fourth zone.  Your old zone ain’t gonna work.  You really need to find the print and study this and understand it.

 

 

One would think when you pay over $8k for the installation of three new AC units at a high end RV service shop, that shop would know how to do the job correctly. Instead, I get excuses. 

The tech has yet to fix the bathroom heat. The Aqua-Hot line to the register is cold. Blower at register is working. All other heat registers are functioning as expected including basement heat. The Aqua-Hot electronic controller (pictured) shows zone 1 and 3 are active. 2 is not. 
The tech says I should tap the 2 pump in an effort to get it running. He thinks it might be jammed up, but all the pumps are only a year old and all functioned as expected before the new ACs were installed. 
If the bathroom register works off zone 2 on the AquaHot, how do I get it to operate since zone 2 on the new thermostat doesn’t offer an Aqua-Hot option?  Are the zones listed for the Aqua-Hot different from the zones on the thermostat?

On 3/16/2023 at 11:56 AM, Frank McElroy said:

There are 3 circulation pumps and 5 available aquahot heating zones.  The bay heating zone is a separate zone but it shares the same circulation pump as the bath zone.  The front aquahot zone uses a separate circulation pump as does the bedroom zone. 

So, if the bay calls for heat only the bay heater fan will run.  The bath heat exchangers would get hot but those fans won't run unless the bath zone calls for heat.  Also, the zone numbers on the thermostat don't match the aquahot heating zone numbers.  This confuses a lot of folks.  If you want to see which zones feed the aquahot zones look at your wiring diagram. 

Keep in mind that in a 3 AC setup the center AC unit does not have an Aquahot heating zone.  Also, for the thermostat to work properly, all AC units must be on zones before adding an Aquahot heat only zone.

Hope this helps.

Hey Frank, I called Dometic and they told me the 4th zone circuit board you thought was the culprit plays no part in controlling the Aqua-Hot with the new AC units. The Dometic tech told me an RJ-11 cable should run from the Aqua-Hot to one of the AC units specifically for the bathroom heat. Since I have heat in zone 1 and 2 (front and rear) I’m guessing the tech at The Motorcoach Store failed to connect this cable or failed to set the dip switch at my middle AC unit. 

I’m going to have to fix this myself, since the dealer seems incapable and they have no open appointments until after we leave Florida. So, I plan to pull the shrouds and see if an RJ-11 cable is connected and dip switch set to the closed position.  I’m guessing I should have one RJ-11 cable connected at each of my AC units. I’m told I’ll have to do a reset of the thermostat after any change in the dip switch settings. 

Do you think this makes sense?

I contacted the RV dealer. They need a part number for the replacement board. I guess I have to locate that myself. I’ll call Dometic and see if they can help. 
 

14 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

That’s for starting this thread Pduggs.

I realize that I’m not helping but I have the same issue with my 2005. Previous owner installed a new hp/ac in the main salon with the new style thermostat a month before our purchase and kept the old hp/ac and old style thermostat in rear bedroom, the fan doesn’t not come on under the vanity in the (I call it the shower room) shower room, the heat exchanger does seem to get hot but no fan and the heat exchanger does get hot and blow hot air in the commode room when the switch in the commode room is turned on but cools down after a bit, I assuming do to lack of boiler fluid circulation. 
 I also noticed my wet bay heater seems to come on when the thermostat in the bedroom is on furnace mode. 
 

 We’re not home now so I can’t experiment but will continue to read the thread, if anyone directs a remedy my way and I don’t answer for a week I’m not ignoring you, we’re just not at home we’re the coach is parked!

 

 Thanks in advance!

Thanks for your post. I now need to check my heat register in my wet bay. I don’t know if it’s heating. 
 

Hey Frank, do you know if the wet bay is also heated by zone 4, like my bathroom register is?

N

3 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

The dealer should be able to replace that old hidden board with a new one compatible with the new AC units.

Thanks. 

Okay. How do I solve this problem? Call Dometic and buy the circuit board???  Is it a simple install. Or take coach back to dealer who should have known how to fix it?

30 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Yes, I suspected that they didn't replace the 4th zone control board.  The old original board is not talking to the new circuit control boards in your new units.  In effect they need to replace the old circuit board with the same electronic board that is in your new AC units.  The manufacturer should have that specialty option just like Dometic did.

Your 4th zone control board could be hidden in a wall almost anywhere but it will likely be in the wall behind the thermostat.  If your thermostat is mounted on a wall with a cabinet behind it, that cabinet will likely have a side interior wall that unscrews and the control circuit board is mounted behind that panel.

Wow Frank. You are amazing. I was just now looking for the board and found this a short distance from the thermostat. Lots of cut wires. Not sure if that was done by the shop.