Pduggs

6 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

You have a 4th zone hidden controller.  It is likely in a wall near the thermostat.  Since you replaced all 3 AC units, did you also replace the zone 4 control circuit board with a new one?  Did your thermostat see 4 zones before and now it sees only 3 zones?

Thanks Frank. I’m unaware of this. You’d think the tech at The Motorcoach Store would know this. No zone 4 control circuit board was replaced. My old stat did have four zones. I have four zones on the new one, but the fourth zone is inactive. Any ideas how I can fix this?

Hey guys if I’m trying to heat my bathroom wouldn’t you think I’d have the other zones on too?  Lol. Of course all my other zones are on, but the bathroom isn’t offering heat. 
 

We replaced all three AC units with HP and had new Dometic CCC II thermostat installed.
 

Our Squire has the fully enclosed bathroom with Aqua-Hot heat register under the vanity. Intellitect button on bath wall “AQ-Hot Blower” turns on blower for heat. It worked well BEFORE the ACs and stat were installed. 
 

Installation was done by the Mortorcoach Store in Bradenton, FL in January. I took it back to fix this problem two weeks ago and thought it was fixed. AQ Blower wasn’t working at all after initial install and tech determined it was a bad ground. He fixed at no additional cost but now that it’s cool this morning, we realize it isn’t offering heat. It’s blowing cold air at very low fan speed.
 

I’ve played with the zones and modes on the thermostat to avail. Anyone have any suggestions?

On 1/26/2021 at 6:58 PM, Dennis H said:

John,

It's a pretty simple process. I've attached some pictures to help you. I don't have a video, but the pictures are numbered 1-6. Hope this helps. If you have more questions don't be afraid to ask. That's how we learn....Dennis

Pictures: 1 Light fixture with cover removed. 2. Fixture with bulbs removed. The center rail is removed by squeezing it in the middle and pulling down. 3. Cover, bulbs and center rail 4. Fixture with cover, bulbs and center rail removed. 5. Wiring exposed. Blue circle shows black and white, (power and ground) Red circle shows screws to remove to take down the fixture. 6. Fixture with new LEDs installed.

 

Thanks Dennis. That’s exactly what I plan to do with my five fluorescent lights. I had an issue with the Intellitec and called M&M. He told me to get rid of the fluorescent lights as they can interfere with the Intellitec system. 

Sorry for your loss. Do you have to sell the coach?  If not, you should know it is a very well constructed coach that can’t be bought new today without spending a million dollars. 

I’d like to upgrade mine too, on a 2008 Dynasty. The resolution is poor. I’m certain newer cams must offer a much higher resolution. My daughter has a new Camry with backup cam that has very sharp resolution. 
 

I just don’t want to have to incur a lot of work and cost to get it done.

12 hours ago, WCourand said:

We had a similar problem with our motorized bat wing antenna.  Unit would not go up and rotate.  Took the unit apart and lubed all the rusty internals, reassembled and the unit works fine.  You might try taking it apart cleaning the rusty parts and giving it some lube.

That’s my plan, when I try to fix it next week. I’ve had success doing that in the past, when it failed to rise or rotate. However, this time it might be different. When I press the the buttons to rise/lower or rotate the motor is making some very unusual loud noises.  When it operated properly, it made a consistent soft humming noise. It could be the gears are frozen and need of cleaning and lubrication. I hope that is all it is. Or it could be the motor has seized. 

8 minutes ago, lwkhou said:

I replaced both my satellite and tv antennas this year.  King dish tailgater pro and King omnipro.  Both are excellent.  The ominpro pulls in more over the air channels than I ever thought possible.  I mounted the tailgater on the roof using King quick release roof mount.  This way if trees are in my way I can in about 5 minutes have it set up on the ground, and I don't have to carry my King quest with me any longer.  Both antennas were very easy to install as I used the cables on the roof that were on the old antennas.

Thanks for your reply. Did you have the Winegard batwing before installing the King omnipro?  

I’ve always read an Omni directional antenna isn’t as good as a directional antenna. Maybe this isn’t correct. 

Did you install the Omnipro in the same spot as the Batwing?

1 hour ago, LakeBob said:

Thanks Paul, I figured that was the next step.  Thanks for the guidance, hard to find any real information on the operation/controls of this antenna. 

The antenna still works well, as you stated, however I have to rotate manually from outside, which is a minor hassle.    The antenna was a joy when  it rotated properly! 

Agreed it is a great antenna, when it works properly. I’ve read that Winegard stop making it because of so many failures. So I guess we were lucky to have it work on our coaches as long as it did. 
I hope there is someone on this forum who has been able fix it and can give us more insight. Let me know if you are able to fix yours. 

Thanks for posting this. I could use some help.

I also have the motorized Winegard Sensor TV antenna and love it. I’ve taken it apart many times and always got it to function properly, until recently. Mine refuses to raise and lower, but rotates just fine. 
 

You should remove the top (remove two screws on the center cover then remove the Allen screw).  This will allow you to remove the top and expose the gears. Then ask someone in the coach to press raise/stow button to see if gears are working. Do the same with the rotate button. If gears are not turning, try cleaning them then adding a little grease. If gears are worn or broken, you might not be able to repair it. 
 

You must be cognizant of the gear on the inside the top, when reinstalling it.  That gear in there is designed to connect the electric circuit so that you don’t get the warning light on the dash “antenna up.”  

We’ve traveled all over the US the past five years and found this antenna to work very well.  Everything I’ve read still indicates it is one of the best antennas you can buy. I added the Wingman, which did improve reception. 

OP update: I finally installed my second new water pump. Easy install and appears to be working quietly and with good pressure. 

Pressure at the kitchen faucet. 

I had my coach into Josam this past spring, to get front bearings repacked and chassis inspection. Barry the GM told me there is no need to repack front bearings on a coach with only 50k miles. He said they repacked hundreds of coach bearings in the past only to find them in perfect condition. So, they stopped repacking and now merely pumped in fresh grease. 

Do you guys think this approach acceptable?
 

I installed the new oven today. Easy install by one man. Ingenious design for attaching to back wall. Two long angling screws hold the oven. I may add a couple screws on the side, screwed into the cabinet for added support. 
 

I really like that idea, as the oven generates a lot heat when cooking something for a long time. I’m afraid though to cut through the side wall. How can you be sure you don’t hit electrical wires or a wall stud?

But I never had any trouble with the outlet Monaco installed. What are the benefits of installing a real 15 amp outlet?

I think I will just cut the hole larger so that the new plug can fit through the hole. 

We decided to buy a new microwave. I bought the exact same model on Amazon for $600. Hopefully it will install easily, but I have my doubts. I’m not certain the new one will have the same set up on the backside, with the two long angling screws securing the oven to the back wall. 
 

I pulled out the old one, which wasn’t too bad but took a little time. It wouldn’t come out, until I found one hidden screw holding it on the lower right side. I had to cut the power cord to get the plug out. The plug can’t be pulled through the hole in the adjacent cabinet because the electrical line encroaches on the opening. I’m not sure how Monaco did that. 
 

If anyone has installed a new oven, please offer any tips. 
 

PS. they claim the oven is 70lbs. This must be wrong. I handled it easily alone and carried it out of the motorhome and 30 yards to my car. I’m strong, just not that strong. Lol. 

7 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

The ESL is a little rough.  But if you watch it a few times, it makes sense.  

Since you have the parts coming, you can test them.  I had a similar problem with a GE, not a convection, but the same basic circuit. I checked BOTH the Rectifier and the Capacitor....and I have a VOM with a Capacitor scale. They both checked the same. Put in the new parts and it worked. In retrospect, I think it was STUPIDITY on my part or my daughter's.  She said it quit....COLD turkey. I did the RESET and got power back to the display. BUT, I had already pulled out the parts.  

If you don't get it working, then the cost of the Magnetron and the installation is your choice. As long as you have power from the main PS and the fuses are GOOD, assuming that is where the fuses are, then you have eliminated everything buy the Magnetron. If that is it in the picture and you can easily remove it....then it is your call. BUT, there is, from what very KNOWLEDGEABLE folks that HAVE replaced a Magnetitron, a specific set of steps to ensure no radiation leakage. If this was a $250 or so unit....NOPE....but the Mag might not be that expensive....

Good Luck...

I assume that you mean...NO HEATING AT ALL. there is a fan switch that gave folks a lot of problems, and it would stop heating after maybe 59 seconds. We had a lot of folks that fixed theirs...

Thanks Tom. I did have the 59 second issue a year ago and repaired it. This time the oven isn’t heating at all, but will run for as long as needed. 
 

I had run the oven for 90 minutes at 450 degrees to season a cast iron skillet, just before it stopped heating. Maybe the prolonged high heat did something to this old oven. 

I checked the capacitor for continuity. My meter beeps and the reading goes to 0 on both terminals. I swapped the leads and get the readings that gradually go to 0 with meter beeping.

Does this indicate the capacitor is good?  

Thanks guys for your help. I have a rectifier coming and will check the capacitor after I short it.
 

Hopefully I don’t have to replace the oven, but I see the exact same oven available on Amazon for around $600. 

4 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

Ours did the same thing two years ago, magnetron went out, pretty expensive to replace especially in a 14cyrarvole microwave.  We purchased new, same model, but cut hole to vent to the outside to help keep heat out of the coach.

Thanks.

How did you determine it was the magnetron?

It makes noise as if it’s working. Panel is lit as it always did. Light inside and underside are working. It is NOT heating and turntable is NOT turning. I pulled the fuse and it has continuity.
Is there another fuse somewhere? Could capacitor be the culprit?

Anything else I can do to determine the problem?  Thanks. 

28 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

My 06 Dynasty came with a water accumulator plus it has the Remco water pump. It works fine and is very quiet. I guess I may be one of the lucky ones.

I had the exact same set up on my 08 Dynasty. I had replaced the accumulator tank last year, when my original Remco pump (RV Aquajet II) was working fine. It started making a lot noise late last year, but still worked okay. A couple weeks ago it stopped working altogether. 

12 hours ago, Bob Jones said:

This is important information, I think. I just put the pump back on the accumulator to see if that makes a difference. In order to do that I had to increase the length of the output hose. It's now way too long, but it's for testing purposes. Wow, that made a huge difference. The pump is now quiet. And, oddly enough, once back on the accumulator it now shuts off at 70 PSI. Reliably. Grabbing the extra long outlet hose while it's running results in a bad case of white finger. The oscillations in that line are unbelievable. This lends a lot of credit to what you were saying about having the lines so long they are in a loop.......

With the pump shutting off at 70 I now find the pressure too low. It seems I'm addicted to the 100 PSI. Which brings me back to your point about being able to adjust it. Do you know where that PDF is from Dav Pratt by any chance? I'm going back out to the bay to do some more battling. 

Very weird. I initially installed the pump with the accumulator and it failed to worked. I got zero psi at the accumulator tank. I then bypassed the accumulator and it quietly worked. 
 

Remco states in this video not to use an accumulator tank.

29 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

Mine was double-boxed but.....they didn't other to wrap the pump box in bubble wrap to keep it from flying around inside the new box. It did survive.

Here's a video of the pump in action (if you can see it)

 

 

Wow Bob. That’s very strange. Mine didn’t sound anything like that. You might call Remco customer service and see if they can help. I called them and was surprised to get quick and helpful service.