Pduggs

17 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Paul:

 

Those are vinyl for sure. Normally the felt backing on leather seats is grey and is a thick felt. Your fabric is vinyl.

Chris, could the seat surfaces be leather and the rest of the chair vinyl?  They have a different feel and are wearing differently

Hi Chris, this is the seat flap underside on my Dynasty. I thought the seats were leather, but now I’m not sure. Can you tell from the picture?

Yeah dryer is 120VAC.
 

Thanks for the help. 

19 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:

The original post has a statement about the "dryer" not working that confuses the heck out of me.  My coach should be very very similar and for me that box behind the washers/dryer stack is 120v for the bedroom heat pump and washer shared circuit, not at all associated with the 240v dryer.  When mine gave out years ago I replaced it with a new unit from eBay and we now always turn off the BR heat pump/AC when washing so the load switching relay won't arc when the washer draws >2amps killing the juice to a running roof unit ... and then when the washer temporarily uses less juice mid cycle the relay would re-engage starting up the roof unit for a couple seconds again only to be killed almost immediately again by the washer drawing a bit more juice.  The box is still used as a safety precaution so the wiring doesn't get accidentally overloaded, but we are trained to turn off the BR roof unit during wash days to minimize short cycling the roof unit as short cycling it doesn't do it any favors either.  IMHO, yours likely failed due to the relay arcing too many times over the years.  

But back to the original diagnosis about the dryer ... There could be another hidden electrical problem if that box is somehow wired into the 240v dryer circuit too.  The dryer should have its own 240v sub panel double pole breaker under the washer/dryer stack as that 240v circuit is fed directly from the main lugs of the front main electrical panel without any breaker up front.  The dryer should have still functioned with the said box being blown.  We have a gas stove top so not sure how the all electric coach load shares an electric cook top.  My Aqua Hot electric element is load shared with the front heat pump unit via an identical box giving priority to the roof unit.  Rather than having a single master EMS brain I have multiple of these individual load sharing boxes hidden around the coach.

When you replace the box be sure you wire the correct wire through the current sensing loop so the correct function is maintained.

BTW, my '07 chassis built Sept '06 with the full version Aladdin.  

FWIW

 

 

 

I have two intellitec boxes behind the dryer. One is wired to the washer and the other to the dryer. The one wired to the dryer melted. It must also be wired to the bedroom heat pump because it was turned on but everything else was off in the bedroom, including the washer and dryer. 

Could you please expound on your point about the sensing loop?  Others have stated much the same, but I’m not familiar with the terminology. 

On 11/12/2021 at 12:52 PM, Frank McElroy said:

For the 2008 model year, Monaco was transitioning to a chassis multiplex system, using the 10 button Medallion screen display, and phasing out the Aladdin.  For early 08 Dynasty models they used an Aladdin Junior.  Missing on the Aladdin Jr were the tank monitoring and shore power electrical monitoring systems.  On some Dynasty's, Monaco added the transfer switch remote monitor to the cabinet above the passenger seat.

That makes sense. My coach was shipped on June 11, 2007. Must have been one of the earliest built 2008 Dynasty’s.  
 

I have this screen in the bedroom. The one on the dash is a Sony. This one is a Kenwood like yours. It doesn’t seem to work. 
 

17 minutes ago, Hypoxia said:

Wow, I just looked at the 2008 Dynasty Owners Manual, It has zero information on the Aladdin System.  FWIW, my Signature's Aladdin display is the same as Bills, willbo777.

Yeah. I checked my manual and there is little info. I’m guessing Monaco used a higher end Aladdin in the higher end coaches. Or maybe it was an option my original owner didn’t buy. 

Just now, willbo777 said:

 

Agreed. 

1 hour ago, willbo777 said:

If you go to the electrical page it is there if there is a problem.  I often watch the electrical page as my wife hooks up and turns on the electric at a campsite.  That transfer and protection switch has saved us several times when the campground had a problem.

No completely different, it has electrical page, engine page, fluids page, camera page, trip statistic and fuel mileage page, time.  You toggle through with a joy stick and read it on your monitor, we have one at the driver's seat and one in the bedroom, and a small tank readout at the plumbing bay.

My Aladdin must be different from yours. Here is my main page. 
 

2 hours ago, willbo777 said:

That transfer switch shows its readout on the Aladdin screen.  I have the same transfer switch and it shows anything that is bad with the power and will not connect.

• Multi-mode surge suppression (fuse protected)
• Low (<95V) and High (>132V) Voltage
• Mis-wired pedestal
• Open neutral
• Open ground
• Reverse polarity
• High and low frequency

I’ve never seen this on my Aladdin. How do you access this information?

I checked the pedestal per this guy’s instructions https://youtu.be/9hmuUBWKwGo  The pedestal is good. 

I suspect the problem has something to do with the rear AC/heat pump unit. That was the only thing turned on when the smell occurred, and it had failed to run. I’m thinking I need an electrician to check it out. 

7 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul, is there a remote display with that transfer switch that will indicate when there is a problem with the incoming power?

Here is a link that explains how to test the pedestal with a multi-meter prior to plugging in your coach.

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electricity-easy-50-amp-measuring/

Thanks. I don’t have a remote panel. I’ll check the pedestal now. 

19 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul,

You really dodged a bullet on this one. Lesson learned, if you have a very strong electrical burning smell, find its source before the coach burns to the ground.

As Frank suggested, you have three options, replace it with the same model, replace it with a manual transfer switch or remove it and install a junction box but then you have to remember NEVER to run the AC and Washer/Dryer at the same time.

Also, do you have a Progressive Industries EMS system or some other brand that monitors the quality of the incoming shore power such that it will sever power when ANY aspect of the power quality goes out of specs? If not you had better get one installed pronto.

Are you referring to my transfer switch? See picture of it below. 

In our four years of ownership we never ran the AC and washer/dryer at the same time, because they wouldn’t run when all were turned on. 

In this instance, nothing else was on in the bedroom other than the heat pump. 

How can I check the electrical polarity at the pedestal with my volt meter?

We smelled electrical burning emanating from the bedroom the other night. The only thing turned on in there was the heat pump, which had failed to operate. I thought the cause was the AC/heat pump unit. I turned it off and the smell dissipated. Removing the AC shroud the next morning found nothing amiss. 

The DW yells this morning that the dryer won’t work. I check the electrical outlet the dryer is plugged into and it’s dead. Following the electrical line from the outlet box to the Intellitec box pictured below, opening it up and BINGO. I found the source of the burning smell. 

I’m not sure what to do next. What would cause this? It looks like I need to replace the melted Intellitec box. Where can I buy it? I’m surprised the house electrical breaker for the dryer didn’t trip.

5 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Wooden 6X6 won’t help for the front. Instead of metal posts 9” long, why not 12-13” to put in after raising the coach up?

I raised my coach as high as it would go. It measured roughly 9” next to the airbags. 

Yes. I had four heavy gauge steel posts cut to a length of 9”. They fit next the air bags. I lower the coach down on them so that they are jammed and unable to pop out. I carry them as a full timer. I’ve only used them up front, but I think they’ll work in the rear too. 
 

The wooden 6x6 posts for laying under the hitch as mentioned above, should work well and you could stow in a bay as a full timer. 

I can attest to Bob’s comments on the Ubiquity dish. He helped me get mine set up earlier this year. It is a fantastic little piece of technology, but does require some tech savvy to get set up right. We’ve used it to great success. We can stream video on the TV, while using a iPad, laptop, and cell phone. I set up a wireless router to the dish and can wirelessly access WiFi throughout the coach and just outside the coach. 
 

I’ve found that if a park offers WiFi, it often is not strong enough to stream video just using the tv to access the signal. Or in the evenings it drops out as too many are trying to use it. With the dish, it boosts the park WiFi signal allowing us to be able to stream video 24/7. 

2 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

No, hey go side to side on top of each other for 18” (actually 16.5”) high. 

Okay thanks, that makes more sense. Is that three 6x6 posts laid horizontally on top of each other under the hitch?  Is this in addition to rolling the drive and tag tires up on wooden ramps?

8 hours ago, tomevansfl said:

Paul, did you install the headlights or the previous owner. If you did, what brand are they. I’d like to update mine.

Thanks,

Tom

Hi Tom, my headlight is a knockoff of the 2005 Ford F450. I bought them from the link below and they were very easy to install since they are an exact fit for my coach. I would advise you to shop around to find a good price, as I suspect I paid too much. I did take the coach to an automotive electrical shop to have them properly wired. They do give the coach a more up-to-date look and are a great improvement in lighting. 
https://xtralights.com/

On 10/27/2021 at 7:54 AM, Ivylog said:

For the front I made 2 ramps out of scrap lumber I had…I glued and screwed the 3 layers of 2X10 together plus used one layer of plywood. They are 3’ long and have not had any issues driving up on them although I did cut the ends of the 2X10s at a 45.
For the rear, once on the ramps, I raise the coach up and put 40” long 6X6 crossways under the hitch, not just the receiver. Won’t post the picture of a wrecker towing a rig by the hitch so we don’t get off topic again. The hitch structure is strong enough to support the back of a S-10 chassis.

I don’t like steel on steel supports/Jack stands as it only takes a slight angle to have them kick out.

When you say 6x6 crossways, I can’t picture that. You mean 6x6 wooden posts cut to 40” lengths and positioned standing end to end upright under the hitch right?

54 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Are you seeing all 4 zones on the thermostat?  On my 08 Dynasty, Monaco had the dip switches on the 4th zone set incorrectly.  This caused all sorts of problems with how the heat pumps and AC units operated.  On my coach the control box for the 4th zone is located in a hidden panel behind the thermostat.

Yes I see all four zones on my thermostat. My fourth zone is the bathroom. On the Squire, the fourth zone is the enclosed bathroom. 

52 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

My ISM500 would take several miles, maybe more than that of driving to get to temp.  On idle I'm not sure it would ever get to normal.  As to slides; coach is built on a concrete floor which is perfectly level to begin with regardless of coach "height", therefore my reasoning would be to bring coach to level for both extension and retraction of the slides.  That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.  Also, my "ride height" has never been spot on level under any circumstances.  For the most part everyone is pretty much on the same page and it seems to be working.  No reason to sit and idle for 30 minutes prior to leaving.  

I have air only with my Valid system, no jacks.  From time to time while parked I have to relevel after the Valid "brain" goes to sleep.  But I wait till daylight hours, run the engine long enough for the low air alarm to stop and then hit the auto level button and shut down.

Since I'm beginning to see more and more "gas" class A's, maybe the diesel idle thing is going away, NOT!!  3 Tiffin gas coaches in this park right now, OK, whatever, saved some money.  Maybe it's just me, but lugging around 40,000 lbs with a gas engine after 50,000 miles, what's left in the tank?  Re-sale??  Friend bought a gas class A, tried to sell it, couldn't give it away, finally let the bank come and take it.  But that's a whole different topic.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

I do the same after parked for awhile. I have found my coach seems to stay level longer if I hit the auto level, wait for it to finish, then hit auto level a second time. 

18 hours ago, FishAR said:

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84

Generator repair
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.

Was this work done at a Speedco?  If so, I didn’t know they could all that work. What was done to the generator?  

It’s the five button. 

I’ve not checked the dip switches. 

Please let me know if this is normal. My heat pumps will only run if the thermostat is set for “heat pump” on all zones. If I have any zone off or set for anything other than heat pump, none of three units will operate.