Woody O

OK, charged batteries for about 2 hours, then let them sit for 20-25 minutes and the readings are 6.46 for 2 batteries 6.47 for one, 6.50 for two, 6.51 for two and 6.54 for one. I'm outwest and will be attending the Albuqueque Balloon Fiesta, so, I'm getting a little nervous.  If its not the batteries, then its in the charger, right?  I don't have time to replace the inverter charger. Can I just buy a quality charger and charge all eight with the gen. running?

14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Woody.  Memory says you had an issue with your inverter a year or two back.  Finally got it fixed.  You can domthe following as a quick check, but here is what you need to do and then, probably call Magnum.

Turn OFF house bank.  Disconnect the jumpers between each set of 2 batteries.  Measure the voltages.  If one or more is in the 4 VDC or lower….then remove them or rposition them so they are in the same set.  Don’t know if you have 4 or 8.  Pick the best batteries, reading at least 5.7 or so.  Put them in sets so that you have then back to normal or charging.  If you have an odd number of 4 VDC….then put them together….do NOT put back in the jumpers….wasting your time and messing up the charging.  You will not be able to salvage these….shorted cells.

OK…you need an even, 2, 4, 6, or 8 GOOD (not shorted cells) batteries hook up.  Then test.

BUT, on the way home…or if you are going to drive several hours….put a jumper cable between the House and Chassis.  Then drive.  Once you are home or at a CG, repeat the above…

You need to out a piece of masking tape on each battery. A, B, C….etc.  record the voltage now.  Repeat when you do the Chassis charge…compare voltages.

Post that….then go from there.  We can’t make any decisions, or at least I can’t, until we know the condition of the batteries.  Load testing is marginal.  This plan lets us know what is going on.

Thanks Tom, I will do as you described when I get to the  next CG. I will report back with what I found.Woody O

I boon docked last night and my AGM batteries did not last through the night. Thinking I got a bad battery in the group. So, will test each one individually to see which one. My question is, after I got the gen. running, it took over a minute or two before the charger would go from "stand by" to charge and then it went to "float charging" at 29 amps instead of 99 amps. Question: Would a bad battery cause this or is the inverter/charger going out?

Woody O

2006 Monaco Dynasty

Thanks guys for making the video.  I too now will be able to redo my beltlines.

On 5/11/2023 at 1:49 PM, Woody O said:

The Nason safety Switch, I believe is going out on me, so I tried to order from several of the above numbers, of which none seem to have part available. I'm getting one from Radwell International today. Thanks to Larry and Tom for the help.

I strengthen the console top by sliding an 1/16" thick aluminum plate under it where the brake switch is located and screwed it down. That made a big difference. Here's the problem. I CAN'T FIND THE NASON SAFETY SWITCH.  On some coaches, it is "T" under the brake switch. Not mine. So, I looked up the pneumatic drawing and it is showing in the front  generator area on passenger side of front of coach. I can't find but one electrical in front that has 3 wires and I know that not it.  Need suggestions on where it could be.  HELP please.

On 5/13/2023 at 10:25 AM, Woody O said:

While backing into campsite with lift axle raised, the switch light went off and the axle went back down. So, Im thinking I blew a fuse. I looked at tech pages to see if they could help me. No luck. Can't find fuse. I see some lift axle relays in front run box. So, is my next task checking the relays to see if need replacing?

So, left campsite and returned home and the lift axle works like it is suppose to. I have no ideal as to why it stopped working while backing into site but glad it is working fine now.

While backing into campsite with lift axle raised, the switch light went off and the axle went back down. So, Im thinking I blew a fuse. I looked at tech pages to see if they could help me. No luck. Can't find fuse. I see some lift axle relays in front run box. So, is my next task checking the relays to see if need replacing?

The Nason safety Switch, I believe is going out on me, so I tried to order from several of the above numbers, of which none seem to have part available. I'm getting one from Radwell International today. Thanks to Larry and Tom for the help.

2006 Monaco Dynasty,  Cranked up and pulled out to load coach and parking light would not go off and if tried to drive forward, warning bells would start ringing. Stopped , then moved forward again and same thing. Stopped and backed up and the light went out. So, what do I need to do if it happens again and does not go off?

Merry Christmas to you and all the support staff of our Monacers.org group 

Woody O

22 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Ditto….  Make that 3.  Some folks have custom screens that display the TP.  I probably scroll my TP at least once every 15 minutes….and I know many experienced MH owners that do the same.

It would be interesting to know if the coach with the blowout had a TPMS or the driver’s Habits as to checking TP.

 

I checked with the owner and yes he has a tire monitoring system . I don’t know which brand, but he did say that when he left that day, all the tires pressure were where they were supposed to be and there were no alarms. The pressure was correct until the tire blew. This is all I know.

I have a 2006 Monaco Dynasty. I've noticed several times now that when I pull the headlight switch, all the lights come on except the headlights. Play with switch a little and the headlights come on. So, I went to parts list and all I saw was I think, a 1974 series headlight switch. So, has anyone replaced their switch in a 2006 coach? If so, do you still have the part number?

Thanks,

Woody O

10 minutes ago, DavidL said:

tire could have been underinflated which causes the tire cords to overflex and ultimately fail.  I checked with my friend and he has a tire monitoring system and the tire pressure was right where it was supposed to be before the blowout.

 

Who knows.  Just good to hear no significant damage or crash.

A friend of mine had a front tire blowout on his way home from a Monaco rally. He was heading home on I-26 going toward Columbia, SC. As he was crossing a bridge, his right front tire blew. He was able to get on the shoulder of the road without any damage to coach. The interesting part, is that it was a 2-1/2 year old Toyo tire. It was on a Saturday about noon and the roadside assistance you get from FMCA was closed. No help there. So, I gave him the number for McCarthy Tire, a large regional roadside assist in the southeast. They were not operating.  Luckily, he was able to find an independent in Columbia, SC,  that came out and put a BF Goodrich tire on. He checked the blown tire and the area of the tire blowout and did not see anything that he might have run over to cause the damage.

Given the good advice from several people including Tom Cherry, I went with a Dayton model #6EDY7 Line Voltage Thermostat to replace my White Rogers #E2 Type2B61-186 Thermostat. Thanks for a great bunch of people that are willing to share their knowledge to help their fellow traveler.

Woody O

Thanks, I will check it out once I get home. I know this one is bad because on a 50 degree day, the heater is running in the basement and my bathroom floor is nice and warm. I checked temp in basement and it is 71 degrees. Tried turning down, but fan won’t stop until you turn thermostat off. At this point, it is off or running. So, again, “Thanks” for providing me a source to get a replacement.

I need to replace my basement thermostat that controls the heating radiator over the water tanks. The part number is E2 Type2B61-186 made by White Rogers. It is in a 2006 Monaco Dynasty. First, I go to parts list and call them. They don't carry them anymore. Then, I go on eBay, can't find exact, but do find one that the temperature adjustment goes from 0-250 degrees. So, I bought it and when it comes in, the probe has been cut off. So, that won't work. After emailing and calling with no results, I go to "dispute" with Paypal.  Then, I call Visone RV Salvage and they don't have one. I am now waiting to see if Colaw RV can find something similar. Any suggestions on where to look or what to you?  Woody O

3 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Both Jim J. and I are not impressed with the quality of the radiators that they built for our 2002 Monaco Windsor's. 

If at all possible, I would try to use a more reputable shop. However, if you do decide to use CG&J then just be aware of what Jim & I have experienced with our radiators we got from them.

So, where should we be getting our replacement radiators?

On 9/1/2022 at 9:40 AM, jacwjames said:

Last year I was working on my rear AC unit, my wife said it made a hell of a racket when she started it up but then quieted down.  I suspected that the rubber support bushings were bad (I had to replace the front AC motor in 2015 and found the rubber mounts bad).  So I tore into it and sure enough, but while I was at it I decided I might as well replace the motor.  I could not find one anywhere. 

So I made the painful decision to just go ahead replace both the AC's.  Went with the Penguin High capacity 15K units.  PPL had them on sale ~$2700 delivered.  Plus another $245 for the MicroAir thermostat. 

So from what I'm hearing from Chris I may have made a good decision. 

 

Luckily I was able to change them out myself. 

PPL, what is this? When I search on line, I get an assortment of different companies . Is it a specific company?

My front a/c has the CC2  Thermostat. Question: Can I disconnect the data cable  going between the middle and rear a/c units down to the old thermostat and leave the middle connected to the old thermostat and when I replace the rear a/c, connect it to the front CC2 4 zone thermostat . I would have to run a data cable from the old rear data cable to the newer front a/c unit. Is this double?

Will the new Dometic Comfort Control Center Thermostat work with the old Dometic Air conditioner? I need to replace my bedroom a/c with a new unit but the middle a/c is still working fine. So, if I upgrade the rear a/c with heat pump with the new thermostat, will the new thermostat work with the existing middle a/c?

Good news! The Magnum issue was a really deep issue in that we had to do a "Hard Start".  We had to wait much longer than for a soft start in order to let the stored energy to drain. So, after the "hard start" everything was as it should be. Thank you Tom and Frank for patiently helping me through this. I could not have done it without you two.  First, I thought it was the Big Boy, but Tom convinced me to isolate the problem. Then, it was the inverter. Big bucks! But Tom and Frank had me do a "Hard Start" on the inverter and everything came back up and the batteries are charging !  So, I don't have to replace my inverter! I will report back in a couple of weeks when I get back from my trip as to if still working and then exercise my batteries to determine the SOC of my eight batteries. I now have the manual for my AGM batteries to read up and make sure i do proper battery maintainance. Thanks again Tom and Frank!!

Tom, first, the Big boy with the engine running is not warm or humming. So, is it the big boy or is it the board?

50 minutes ago, Woody O said:

Correction, 12.7 V not 12.3 V

According to my Progressive Monitor, I have 120 volts coming in , but no current going into coach. "O" draw into coach with nothing turned on.  When I crank the engine, no charge to house batteries. When I crank the Generator, the Air Condition comes on. When I plug to shore, the Air condition comes on. So, it seams I have power to everything except charging the batteries.

Just now, Woody O said:

According to my Progressive Monitor, I have 120 volts coming in , but no current going into coach. "O" draw into coach with nothing turned on.  When I crank the engine, no charge to house batteries. When I crank the Generator, the Air Condition comes on. When I plug to shore, the Air condition comes on. So, it seams I have power to everything except charging the batteries.

The Magnum Energy Panel, which shows the status of the batteries, is showing "power fault" and 12.0 battery level.

24 minutes ago, Woody O said:

Correction, 12.7 V not 12.3 V

The green light on the ISO relay is not light. If I push the button on the relay, the light comes on but goes off when i release the button. So, do I need to replace the relay board?