Woody O

Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

Raised front up to maximum while working on gen exhaust. Worked off and on over several days as I got the parts I needed, so had to raise front up to maximin each time. That’s when my problem started of the driver side dropping after leveling. While checking for leaks, the hwh panel stop operating. No lights on panel coming on. I checked the salesman switch, it is on, but no lights on the hwh. Where is the fuse located for the hwh?  What is my next step?

Update.  Got lights working. Travel height working, dump and raise working. So, problem is, won’t stay level.

Howard, where did you buy the slippers?

I though I would update what I decided to do to get away from tire minders attached to braided hoe on the air stems.  I purchase a kit from Your Tire Store  part # DL4M Duallyvalve Kit and then I bought a shorty valve stem at the local tire store and had the shorty installed on the tag axle tire and the kit put on the dual tires.  The kit includes a stem support in the outer wheel for  the inner valve stem.  Now, I can remove the tire minder and add a pounds or two of air all from outside the tires. Happy with the results.

MH Rookie, I use my propane for my stove, my BBQ grill, and my Fire pit, which uses a lot of propane. What I do is when I am through for the year, I swing by our local Flying J, top off the fuel tank and then drive over to the propane tank and have them top it off too.   It's very convenient and their price is reasonable.

On this trip to FL, dash AC blows cold air, then became warm air, turned AC to Max, blew cold air for maybe 30min., then began to blow warm air, switched back to regular AC, starts to blow cold again for 30min. or so. As long as I continue to switch back and forth, I have cold air.  What is defective?

22 hours ago, k7jv said:

About all that it could be would be some kind of a restriction in the engine loop.  The ONLY things that were touched were presumably the two hoses, right?

A check valve not opening? (if there is one, and if the hoses were reversed at one end or the other)

A restriction, or kink in one of the runs they installed?

The engine pre-heat zone pump in the AquaHot chose this exact time to seize?  Or they could have let some kind of debris or something in the inlet line that worked its way into the pump and stalled the impeller causing a restriction.  Two thoughts on this one.  Those pumps are not shaft driven.  The impellers are magnetically coupled to the drive motor thru the walls of the two enclosures.  Second, I don't recall the exact design of the impeller as to whether stopping it from turning would stop the coolant flow or just slow it a bit.

Before pulling lines to "prime" them, can you pull both at the engine end and see if you can blow compressed air thru the entire loop, perhaps in both directions?  I think you'd only be talking about a couple of liters of ENGINE COOLANT.  (This loop does NOT contain AquaHot boiler fluid).  You could even take them loose at the AquaHot end first and then the engine end, and capture what is in the lines and re-use it if you don't have any to replace it.  (By blowing both directions you could confirm the possible presence or absence of a check valve.  That would tell you whether you would need to swap the hoses.)

I would not expect to have to prime the lines.  

The "Engine Heat" only powers the zone pump.  That is not in play in the situation Woody O is facing.

It doesn't sound like you've torn into anything with tools, yet, and if true, hopefully the task will be minima if and when you dol.  I hope this doesn't become a real monster for you, but I actually don't think that it will, especially if you are able to get to the engine end of the hoses relatively easily, and if you are able to do what you need to do without spreading anti-freeze all around the neighborhood.  If you need to remove a hose and keep fluids in it, you can use a pair of needle-nose ViseGrip pliers to pinch off the hose prior to removing it.  I've done that many times and it works really well.

Good luck!!

I want to thank everyone who gave me positive advice.  This forum is GREAT and you guys have saved me countless times over the years!  At this point, I know what to do and will do it when I get back home after this trip as you can't perform these tasks in a resort. Thanks again! 

Woody O

On 2/7/2021 at 8:29 AM, Chargerman said:

The loop from the engine is separate from the loops that run to the house heat exchanges. Therefore, the heat can work fine on diesel or electric but when running off the engine when going down the road it is possible that the engine antifreeze is not circulating through the Aquahot which will cause what the OP is experiencing. Hopefully we will here back from him soon to see if he’s had any luck finding the issue

OK, I finally had a chance to work on the Aqua Hot.  First, I gradually removed the engine block hoses from the Aqua Hot one at a time and found that both hoses were full of antifreeze.  Then I switched the two hoses and ran the Cummins for 10-15 minutes, getting the engine temp to 160+ and felt the hoses and they were still cold. I even slipped the hose ends back just enough for a slight leak and felt the antifreeze and it was cold. I then went inside and turned the engine off and turn on the engine preheat for 5-10 minutes. I could hear the Aqua Hot pump running, but didn't notice warm hoses when I felt them. Any more ideas?

11 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Yes, when running down the road the engine water pump is moving the fluid through the Aquahot. My thought about turning on the engine preheat also while the engine is running is that it may help get things moving. 
I regards to Richards points above that would be an issue if you changed your boiler fluid. Was this changed also?  By your original post it sounded like the only work that was done was the replacement of the two hoses from the Aquahot to the engine. Is this accurate?

I only had the two hoses replaced. The aqua hot works off 110 and diesel just fine. Its trying to heat coach while using the engine fluid that is not working. I think I it has air trapped in it and therefore fluid is not circulating.  I think I will try what Chargerman recommended which was to remove the hoses and fill it with antifreeze and then reattach and try again. Your thoughts?

2 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

This was feeling the hoses at the AH unit?

yes, about 12" from the Aquahot unit itself.

3 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Just confirm that when on that the circulator pump is indeed running

I was thinking that when running down the road, you are using the engine water pump. ?????

20 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Swapping the hoses is sure a lot easier to try first. Good thought Bob. 
 

does your coach have engine preheat Woody?

Yes, and I tried it today and the two hoses were cold when I touched them when I arrived at the campground.

30 minutes ago, bobdinsmore said:

I don't have AquaHot but is it possible the hoses were reversed at the source?

Its possible

30 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

I think I would pull one of the hoses that come from the engine off of the Aquahot. Then I would attach a short length of hose to it so I could get the end elevated higher that the hose run. Then I would dump a good amount of antifreeze into it, pinch it and reconnect it to the Aquahot and fire up the engine and see if it gets warm after a bit. Also, if your Coach has the engine preheat option on the Aquahot I would turn that on at the same time to aid in getting the circulation going 

Thanks, I will try that.

5 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Did whoever replaced the hoses maybe install shut-off valves back at the engine?

I called them and they said no to installing shut off valves in the lines.

I had my water hoses from the Aqua Hot to the engine block replaced recently. I took an 7 hr drive and noticed no warm air coming from the vents. The fans are working, but no warm air. When I got to the resort, I checked the two hoses from the engine block as they were going into the aqua hot and they were cold.  On the way here, I even turned on the aqua hot engine preheat and yet the hoses were still cold. It all worked prior to hose replacement.  What is my problem.

18 hours ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

This is the drier, should only blow off with engine running, after reaching cut out pressure. 

Dave, since the dryer is releasing air with the engine off, is there an adjustment or do I replace the dryer? And is it something I must do immediately?

Here is a photo of the item that exhaust a small amount of air about every 20 seconds and yes, the engine is turned off when running this test.

I used 2   4"sq x 1/4"wall steel tubing to block up the coach and also chock the wheels. I ran the engine to get air pressure up to cut off which on my coach is 125 psi. I then released the parking brake and went to the rear of the coach and climbed under at which time my wife applied firm even pressure to the brake pedal.  No air hissing except about every 20 seconds, the pressure relief valve would exhaust a short burst of air, which adds up to 6 short burst of air released in the 2 minute test. So, what now?

When doing my pretrip braking tests, I found a problem. My 2006 Dynasty failed the "Holding the brake peddle down for 2 minutes with the engine off" and not losing more than 4 psi of air pressure. The front air tank looses 20 psi and the rear tank looses 25 psi! After building up pressure and cutting off the engine and I slide under the coach, I don't hear any air exhausing. What is my problem?

Nice picture post card Bob

I want to add an additional solar panel to the one that came from the factory to assist battery recharging. I noticed I can add can 5 more panels to the solar charger, so I'm thinking my only expense would be the cost of the panel and installation cost. So, I need recommendations on where to purchase the panel.

It looks good. Now, you need to replace the burned out bulb in your grab handle.

Vito.a, may I ask where did you purchased your 225watt solar panels. Another question, I've been trying to find those pins to relocate the jumper. Can you describe them to me. It does not point them out on the wiring diagram.

I've switched to AGMs, so I need to change my settings. On the magnum remote, I've switched it to AGMs. Now, I need to switch the settings on the Heliotrope RV-45D.  According to the wiring diagram, I switch the four pin setting. That I got. Then it states I need to set the "mode" by switching the jumper block from pins 1 & 2 to 2& 3.  That, I'm not sure about. Could someone tell where that is in the Heliotrope?  Thanks

Guys, according to Alladen, I had 122on leg1 and 122 on leg 2 which is more than I had on the genny, which was 118 on leg 1 and 118 on leg 2, so yes, it should run it. I just can't run everything on 30amp. In fact I can't run everything on 50 amp. That was the reason for the appliance shedding.