I don’t think so. So far I have sprayed 1/2 of my previous coach, both end caps of my present one and several fenders, hoods and bumpers on cars. I’m no expert for sure, but I was told by a painter that 2-stage automotive paints are easier. If the base coat doesn’t look right, respray it. If the clear has dust or runs, color sand and polish it or recoat. The paint is hazardous but I use a hobbyair positive flow respirator, tyvek suit and gloves and figure i’m reasonably well protected. I’ve sprayed everything outside after meticulous cleaning, etc and have gotten good results. It is very satisfying to see the end result and realize how much I saved. My results are certainly not show car quality but easily as good as OEM on my coach.
Now that you can easily get custom base colors mixed and put in spray cans, and catalyzed clear in spray cans it is easy to do spot repairs. But like others say, the preparation is the most important step. I follow the advice from the paint store and on the tech reference sheets meticulously and have not had any problems.
So, my advice is do it unless you just don’t want to bother or don’t mind paying a pro to do it.
good luck
Roy
Keith,
I have the same coach as you. My 12v wiring for the headboard and under cabinets comes from a bundle under the head of the bed in the bed box, under a panel that covers the slideout mechanism. If you remove that panel you can see where the bundle comes out if the coach floor and goes into the slideout wall. The bundle has connectors and also slack that allows it to extend with the slide out. A loose connection or broken wire there could be the source of your problem.
If you don’t find a ground problem like Tom suggests, you might check the wiring there.
