RNMCBR

Glad you found it. That’s where mine is. Not where I expected.

Scott, Your wiring looks similar to my 07 Diplomat. My pump is on the left wall of the wet bay and the latching controller was jammed in behind doubled up wire bundles about 6-8” behind the panel on the upper right of the bay, on top of the black tank. I could not see it through the small cover panel on the upper right of the wet bay panel. If you have not already looked there, you might check that location. Roy

It’s hard to tell from your video but the sound should be noticeably vigorous. Any rv tech should be able to do it. You could also buy your own. They are $30-40 on Amazon depending on whether you get a manual or digital one. Also, it’s important to measure gas pressure with your stove or furnace on. Also, you may need to add a “t” and a plug to give you access to connect it up.

If your frig works well on AC power but not propane, it is likely the burner is dirty/clogged or your gas pressure is low. The flame should be vigorous and slightly “roar”. Or as mentioned above, the baffle could be missing. Rust particles will fall down out of the flue into the burner tube and interfere with gas distribution. The orifice will also gum up from oils in the propane and dirt/dust/rust. I would first remove the burner and clean it with alcohol. Blow it out with compressed air but do not stick anything through the orifice ring. Then, check/adjust the gas pressure with a manometer and set it to the high side of the spec. If you cannot get a vigorous flame, the orifice may be plugged or restricted and you might need a new burner.

The link below explains how I fixed my entry door scissor arm. Obviously this repair requires use of a lathe and mill so it’s not practical for everyone. But it addresses one fundamental flaw in the original design - excessive wear at the riveted joints. Not only does it replace the rivets with components that have a larger bearing surface and resist wear, it is also adjustable for wear. I intended to build a new assembly with this design that would hold the door more open and incorporate a better detent design but this one has worked since 2014 without any problems. I’ve done some others too and they have held up as well. I hope this information is useful to someone else. Roy https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/entry-door-swing-arm-fix-196439.html?referrerid=128853

Dennis, I’ve had and used a pneumatic grease gun for a number of years. It worked fine but crawling around with the hose became a hassle. last year a friend gave me a Milwaukee M12 battery powered grease gun in appreciation for some work I did on his coach. I found it to be totally suitable for everything on my coach, including the driveshaft, and much easier to use than my pneumatic one. Milwaukee also makes a M18 model that supplies higher pressure but I don’t think it’s needed and the M18 is bigger and more costly. I would not hesitate to get another M12 if I needed one. I have a lot of M12 and M18 tools so I’m prone to buy that brand, but I know that there are other brands that are probably just as good. Roy

Dwight, I have a 07 Diplomat with a ISL8.9. My engine uses one belt to drive all the accessories. Yours may be the same as mine. Here is a picture. You might also be able to verify it with Cummins Quickserve. Roy

This may be cautionary for some. My friend here at Quartzsite installed some Lifepo batteries into his 2006 Monaco Dynasty with a Magnum pure sine inverter charger. When connected to solar the magnum charger disconnects. It works fine in all other scenarios. After talking to Victron, Battle Borne and Magnum, he was told that the BMS in some of the cheaper batteries can cause this problem. Apparently, it can cycle/disconnect momentarily then when reconnecting, cause a spike that the Magnum recognizes as over voltage. This causes the magnum charger to shut off. His Magnum will continue to attempt charger, but then shut off, repeating the cycle over and over. interestingly, all 3 of the above sources independently said the same thing. They all said it was not the solar controller even though is another brand. Hopefully no one else will get caught by this. Oops, very sorry. I said “charger” when I should have said “inverter”.

You are welcome. Good luck!

Bill, Yes, it works very well. I can’t get it to purge unless I plug the weep hole. Roy

Todd, No, sorry I did not think of taking a picture of me using it. I’ll try to explain better below. The drive shaft slip joint has a grease weep hole in the end, inside the yoke that holds the u-joint that is attached to the transmission output shaft. If the slip joint spline is caked up with old grease, fresh grease will squirt out this hole before enough pressure can build to force it into the spline and past the slip joint seal. I was never able to stop the grease from squirting out with just my finger. The space between the end of the slip joint shaft and the u-joint is narrow, about wide enough to get your finger in there. This tool will slip into this space with the cone nut sticking into the weep hole and the flat bar bearing against the u-joint, at the center of the u-joint cross. Then by unscrewing the cone nut, I am able to force the cone point into the weep hole tight enough to seal it from grease squirting out. This allows pressure to build enough to force grease into the splined part of the shaft. I hope this paints you a picture of how the tool works. Toy

Bill, Facing the same problem I made this tool to plug the drive shaft slip joint weep hole. My slip joint was so plugged up with dried grease that I couldn’t build enough pressure to get the joint to purge out of the seal. Now I slip this tool between the yoke and u-joint and unscrew the cone nut until it seals the hole tightly. I can slip an open end wrench in the narrow space and turn the hex head to get it very tight . Works pretty good. In an earlier version I just used a pice of 1/4” rod ground to a point and bent over at the end. I would wedge a screwdriver behind it to force the point into the weep hole. It was difficult to use so I came up with this design. Good luck! Roy

We live near Sacramento. Usually if on freeways and driving slower than 80-85 in a car you are getting passed and cut off. I drive my coach at around 65 which is close to what most of the trucks do. That’s usually not a problem except when someone cuts in front and hits the brakes.

I don’t think so. So far I have sprayed 1/2 of my previous coach, both end caps of my present one and several fenders, hoods and bumpers on cars. I’m no expert for sure, but I was told by a painter that 2-stage automotive paints are easier. If the base coat doesn’t look right, respray it. If the clear has dust or runs, color sand and polish it or recoat. The paint is hazardous but I use a hobbyair positive flow respirator, tyvek suit and gloves and figure i’m reasonably well protected. I’ve sprayed everything outside after meticulous cleaning, etc and have gotten good results. It is very satisfying to see the end result and realize how much I saved. My results are certainly not show car quality but easily as good as OEM on my coach. Now that you can easily get custom base colors mixed and put in spray cans, and catalyzed clear in spray cans it is easy to do spot repairs. But like others say, the preparation is the most important step. I follow the advice from the paint store and on the tech reference sheets meticulously and have not had any problems. So, my advice is do it unless you just don’t want to bother or don’t mind paying a pro to do it. good luck Roy

I couldn’t find that U channel so I ripped one out of a piece of square aluminum tube salvaged from a Winegard crank- up antenna, and painted it satin black. I did this on my table saw with a fine tooth blade, a good push stick and leather gloves for added protection. It helps keep the water off the door but didn’t solve the problem of water leaking behind the awning. Oops, here is a picture.