Jlalpaugh Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 I have a Norcold 1200 circa 2008. I have read all of the other posts about this fridge but have not seen my specific problem. the fridge works perfectly on shore power (or generator). It switches over to LP perfectly. By that I mean the flame lights and I get a perfect sustained blue flame….but no cooling! I have had two mobile technicians look at it, a month apart and both are baffled. The fridge works perfectly on AC, the burner operates as it should but there is no cooling on LP. I can’t believe that the cooling solution “knows” the difference between the two heat sources. What am I missing?!?
Ivan K Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 Does the stand pipe get as hot as with the heaters? Our fridge actually cools better on propane. Not plugged up under the top vent so the hot air can pass through? Agree that the refrigerant does not know a difference if it heats up the same way.
Rodger Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 (edited) Has it been serviced or the cooling unit replaced? If so, it’s possible the fluted insert of flue was left out. It helps heat transfer to the cooling unit fluid side. Most likely what is going on. It will look something like this and will hang from the top of the flue outlet. I have seen them longer than this one, depends on the model. Edited March 30, 2024 by Rodger Add pic
RNMCBR Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 If your frig works well on AC power but not propane, it is likely the burner is dirty/clogged or your gas pressure is low. The flame should be vigorous and slightly “roar”. Or as mentioned above, the baffle could be missing. Rust particles will fall down out of the flue into the burner tube and interfere with gas distribution. The orifice will also gum up from oils in the propane and dirt/dust/rust. I would first remove the burner and clean it with alcohol. Blow it out with compressed air but do not stick anything through the orifice ring. Then, check/adjust the gas pressure with a manometer and set it to the high side of the spec. If you cannot get a vigorous flame, the orifice may be plugged or restricted and you might need a new burner. 1
Jlalpaugh Posted March 30, 2024 Author Posted March 30, 2024 I am not sure if this would be called “raging”. It is blue 95% of the time. Both techs have cleaned and blown out the burner. They were mobile techs. Neither mentioned a manometer. Where would I take it to have that test done? Thanks in advance. IMG_7370.mov
RNMCBR Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 16 minutes ago, Jlalpaugh said: I am not sure if this would be called “raging”. It is blue 95% of the time. Both techs have cleaned and blown out the burner. They were mobile techs. Neither mentioned a manometer. Where would I take it to have that test done? Thanks in advance. IMG_7370.mov It’s hard to tell from your video but the sound should be noticeably vigorous. Any rv tech should be able to do it. You could also buy your own. They are $30-40 on Amazon depending on whether you get a manual or digital one. Also, it’s important to measure gas pressure with your stove or furnace on. Also, you may need to add a “t” and a plug to give you access to connect it up.
Bill C Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 My Norco 1200 “appeared to” worked perfectly on gas and electric. However, it would not cool. The coils would get hot. The fans would come on and everything look like it was operating normally but inside the freezer nor refrigerator was not cooled. I read a lot of forums and I’ve had a technician on here and he can’t figure it out either. We replaced the control module And we replaced the digital control pad on the front of the refrigerator. None of these helped. I finally replaced the frig with a brand new Norcold 1210. It seems to work fine as well, in gas and electric. However, The freezer only gets to 22° in the refrigerator only gets to about 71. This is a brand new refrigerator just installed by a technician and this is what I get. I called Norco and they say too bad, So sad, we can’t help you because helping you is a safety and liability issue for Norcold. Take it to a repair shop. I’m living in it full-time on a small lot and it’s not easy to move it. BAD Nevercold
cbr046 Posted March 30, 2024 Posted March 30, 2024 1 hour ago, Bill C said: I called Norco and they say too bad, So sad, we can’t help you because helping you is a safety and liability issue for Norcold. Take it to a repair shop. 🥵🥵🥵 Have you checked the bottom (outside) and roof vents? Gotta have good airflow. If a varmit built a nest that might impede cooling. - bob
jacwjames Posted April 1, 2024 Posted April 1, 2024 When I removed my Norcold I was surprised at how sloppy the cooling unit had been installed. There was a large gap between the cooling unit and back of fridge that had been sealed with foam so the gap had been there when it was assembled. The bolts were tight but with the gap the heat transfer was not good. The fridge never really worked great during the time we owned it. Ended up replacing with a Samsung RF18, couldn't be happier. So you might try tightening the bolts accessed from inside the fridge.
Georgia Mike Posted April 1, 2024 Posted April 1, 2024 John, when I first got my Dynasty my Norcold 1200 worked good on electric but not on gas like yours. It fired up and had a flame but didn’t cool down much at all. I changed the burner and it fixed the problem. I had other problems after that and ended up changing the cooling unit with the Amish 12 volt compressor cooling unit. It converts it to a residential and has been flawless for two years now. If your door seals and over all condition of the box is good and you don’t want to modify anything I would highly recommend it.
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