RNMCBR

Glad you found it. That’s where mine is. Not where I expected.

Scott, Your wiring looks similar to my 07 Diplomat. My pump is on the left wall of the wet bay and the latching controller was jammed in behind doubled up wire bundles about 6-8” behind the panel on the upper right of the bay, on top of the black tank. I could not see it through the small cover panel on the upper right of the wet bay panel. If you have not already looked there, you might check that location. Roy

It’s hard to tell from your video but the sound should be noticeably vigorous. Any rv tech should be able to do it. You could also buy your own. They are $30-40 on Amazon depending on whether you get a manual or digital one. Also, it’s important to measure gas pressure with your stove or furnace on. Also, you may need to add a “t” and a plug to give you access to connect it up.

If your frig works well on AC power but not propane, it is likely the burner is dirty/clogged or your gas pressure is low. The flame should be vigorous and slightly “roar”. Or as mentioned above, the baffle could be missing. Rust particles will fall down out of the flue into the burner tube and interfere with gas distribution. The orifice will also gum up from oils in the propane and dirt/dust/rust. I would first remove the burner and clean it with alcohol. Blow it out with compressed air but do not stick anything through the orifice ring. Then, check/adjust the gas pressure with a manometer and set it to the high side of the spec. If you cannot get a vigorous flame, the orifice may be plugged or restricted and you might need a new burner.

The link below explains how I fixed my entry door scissor arm. Obviously this repair requires use of a lathe and mill so it’s not practical for everyone. But it addresses one fundamental flaw in the original design - excessive wear at the riveted joints. Not only does it replace the rivets with components that have a larger bearing surface and resist wear, it is also adjustable for wear. I intended to build a new assembly with this design that would hold the door more open and incorporate a better detent design but this one has worked since 2014 without any problems. I’ve done some others too and they have held up as well. I hope this information is useful to someone else. Roy https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/entry-door-swing-arm-fix-196439.html?referrerid=128853

Dennis, I’ve had and used a pneumatic grease gun for a number of years. It worked fine but crawling around with the hose became a hassle. last year a friend gave me a Milwaukee M12 battery powered grease gun in appreciation for some work I did on his coach. I found it to be totally suitable for everything on my coach, including the driveshaft, and much easier to use than my pneumatic one. Milwaukee also makes a M18 model that supplies higher pressure but I don’t think it’s needed and the M18 is bigger and more costly. I would not hesitate to get another M12 if I needed one. I have a lot of M12 and M18 tools so I’m prone to buy that brand, but I know that there are other brands that are probably just as good. Roy

Dwight, I have a 07 Diplomat with a ISL8.9. My engine uses one belt to drive all the accessories. Yours may be the same as mine. Here is a picture. You might also be able to verify it with Cummins Quickserve. Roy

This may be cautionary for some. My friend here at Quartzsite installed some Lifepo batteries into his 2006 Monaco Dynasty with a Magnum pure sine inverter charger. When connected to solar the magnum charger disconnects. It works fine in all other scenarios. After talking to Victron, Battle Borne and Magnum, he was told that the BMS in some of the cheaper batteries can cause this problem. Apparently, it can cycle/disconnect momentarily then when reconnecting, cause a spike that the Magnum recognizes as over voltage. This causes the magnum charger to shut off. His Magnum will continue to attempt charger, but then shut off, repeating the cycle over and over. interestingly, all 3 of the above sources independently said the same thing. They all said it was not the solar controller even though is another brand. Hopefully no one else will get caught by this. Oops, very sorry. I said “charger” when I should have said “inverter”.

You are welcome. Good luck!

Bill, Yes, it works very well. I can’t get it to purge unless I plug the weep hole. Roy

Todd, No, sorry I did not think of taking a picture of me using it. I’ll try to explain better below. The drive shaft slip joint has a grease weep hole in the end, inside the yoke that holds the u-joint that is attached to the transmission output shaft. If the slip joint spline is caked up with old grease, fresh grease will squirt out this hole before enough pressure can build to force it into the spline and past the slip joint seal. I was never able to stop the grease from squirting out with just my finger. The space between the end of the slip joint shaft and the u-joint is narrow, about wide enough to get your finger in there. This tool will slip into this space with the cone nut sticking into the weep hole and the flat bar bearing against the u-joint, at the center of the u-joint cross. Then by unscrewing the cone nut, I am able to force the cone point into the weep hole tight enough to seal it from grease squirting out. This allows pressure to build enough to force grease into the splined part of the shaft. I hope this paints you a picture of how the tool works. Toy

Bill, Facing the same problem I made this tool to plug the drive shaft slip joint weep hole. My slip joint was so plugged up with dried grease that I couldn’t build enough pressure to get the joint to purge out of the seal. Now I slip this tool between the yoke and u-joint and unscrew the cone nut until it seals the hole tightly. I can slip an open end wrench in the narrow space and turn the hex head to get it very tight . Works pretty good. In an earlier version I just used a pice of 1/4” rod ground to a point and bent over at the end. I would wedge a screwdriver behind it to force the point into the weep hole. It was difficult to use so I came up with this design. Good luck! Roy

We live near Sacramento. Usually if on freeways and driving slower than 80-85 in a car you are getting passed and cut off. I drive my coach at around 65 which is close to what most of the trucks do. That’s usually not a problem except when someone cuts in front and hits the brakes.

I don’t think so. So far I have sprayed 1/2 of my previous coach, both end caps of my present one and several fenders, hoods and bumpers on cars. I’m no expert for sure, but I was told by a painter that 2-stage automotive paints are easier. If the base coat doesn’t look right, respray it. If the clear has dust or runs, color sand and polish it or recoat. The paint is hazardous but I use a hobbyair positive flow respirator, tyvek suit and gloves and figure i’m reasonably well protected. I’ve sprayed everything outside after meticulous cleaning, etc and have gotten good results. It is very satisfying to see the end result and realize how much I saved. My results are certainly not show car quality but easily as good as OEM on my coach. Now that you can easily get custom base colors mixed and put in spray cans, and catalyzed clear in spray cans it is easy to do spot repairs. But like others say, the preparation is the most important step. I follow the advice from the paint store and on the tech reference sheets meticulously and have not had any problems. So, my advice is do it unless you just don’t want to bother or don’t mind paying a pro to do it. good luck Roy

I couldn’t find that U channel so I ripped one out of a piece of square aluminum tube salvaged from a Winegard crank- up antenna, and painted it satin black. I did this on my table saw with a fine tooth blade, a good push stick and leather gloves for added protection. It helps keep the water off the door but didn’t solve the problem of water leaking behind the awning. Oops, here is a picture.

Jeff, Harry might chime in but he told me he was able to send a fish tape from one end of his coach to the other down the cavity at the top of the wall where the roof bends over. I don’t remember which end he started from. On my coach it was easier to access an exit point on the rear drivers side because I could pull the breaker panel out and see where the wire bundle exited. I couldn’t figure out how to get to the exit of the cavity on the passenger side without cutting a hole in the rear cabinet wall, which I didn’t want to do. i’m not sure what kind of fish tape he used. I tried a sectional fiberglass rod but it always hung up on something. Roy

You might also want to check your door awning to make sure it’s not leaking between the awning and coach. On my coach, there was a strip of foam seal squished between it and the coach but rain still got through, ran down to the top of the door and water puddled there. I am sure it also ran down into the door. Roy

Space Age paint in Phoenix can also mix the Diamont to Monaco codes and put it in spray cans or touch up bottles. I have bought a gallon+ of each color and every batch was a near perfect match. They also told me they could ship.

Bob, I have removed difficult or frozen nuts by various destructive methods including heating them red hot with a torch, splitting them with an angle grinder and a cold chisel, splitting them by drilling successive and increasingly larger holes across one or opposite flats and then using a cold chisel, drilling out the center of the bolt(or drilling the bolt head off), using a pneumatic hammer with a chisel bit to turn the nut, etc. I have not cut any off with a torch yet but would do that if needed. These techniques are not pretty but without adequate space to use a big cheater or impact, they can work. BTW, I bought one of the Milwaukee M18 1200lbft impact guns and it is pretty good. I also have one of the earlier HF reaction torque multipliers and I think I could twist off my wheel studs with it. That’s what I used to remove my steering gear, but it was a very tight fit. It’s difficult to justify expensive tools but with today’s shop rates, a little easier than before. Maybe some others have ideas as well. good luck Roy

I should also mention that Harry Martin (Azhappycars) told me about the wire race along the top of the sidewalls. He fished wires down the passenger side in his 2008 Camelot.

Jeff, After taking off the a-pillar covers I was able to reach up and feel the entry point for the wire chase. I used a mirror and endoscope I got off Amazon to help see what I was doing. Of course it helped that I had previously had this area completely exposed so I could visualize it. At the rear I removed the breaker panel and cut a hole through the side panel into the area where the chase ends. There’s a wire bundle coming out at that point which helps locate the right place for the hole. Sorry I didn't take pictures of that. It’s a rats nest of wires in there and cramoed quarters but doable. I think I left some skin in there. I was then able to get the Magnepull torpedo close enough to that hole that I could grab it with another flexible magnetic wand. Once I had it the rest was easy, considering the help I got from my wife to feed the wires in the front as I pulled. From there I ran the wires under a removable panel at the bottom of the closet to where I could join the bundle going into the slide on the passenger side. I cut a small hole in the back if the tv cavity and fished the two cat5 wires to there. I hope you can follow my explanation OK. Roy

I also ran other wires through the two pvc pipes running through the frame front to rear. But it was a bear to get a fiberglass fish rod through. I also left two strings in place for future needs. I think it took me half a day and left me covered in grease, cut and bruised. I like pulling through the upper traces better. I also left two strings there for future needs. Roy

Bert, On my 07 Diplomat, the front cabinets are attached at the face frame by brackets screwed to a square steel tube that runs from side to side. Where the cabinets wrap around to the sides, they are hung from screws that were driven down through the plywood ceiling panel, probably before the roof was put on. In my cabinet rebuild I obviously was not going to remove the roof so I broke the hard screws off and drove new ones from the bottom up through new wood cleats I screwed to the inside of the face frames. I added several new screws to ensure their security. Unfortunately I did not take pictures of the attachments but here are some of the work in progress where you can see the square tube. Roy

Jeff, I ran 2 ethernet cables from the A-pillar on the driver’s side to the rear cap where I then ran them into the TV slide-out on the opposite side. My coach, and probably yours has wire traces at the top of the side walls where the roof is curved over and attached to the side wall. This rounded over triangular cavity has wires running through it already. However, I had difficulty pushing a snake or fiberglass rod through it because they hung up on what seemed to be clamps or whatever is securing the wire bundles. So I used a Magnepull kit to drag the magnetic torpedo with a cord attached, along the top of the cavity using the included magnetic-roller handle. The torpedo was held tight against the thin fiberglass and followed the rolling magnet with little difficulty. Once I got the torpedo to the rear cap I used the attached cord to pull the ethernet cables through to the rear. This actually worked very well. I think you could do the same and there are several similar wire pulling devices available on Amazon. I got the magnepull because it looked like it would be the strongest and most versatile. good luck and let me know if my explanation is not clear. Roy

That’s what I thought. It’s always so clean I couldn’t believe you ever used it. Has Cummins ever asked to use yours as s display engine? They should.