RNMCBR

If you can’t find any there, check the “Help” rack at the auto parts store. They have bubble paks of hard to find auto fasteners, etc. I am pretty sure I have seen some there.

I used shock absorber rubber bushings and washers on my 07 Diplomat. They were the used ones from the tops of the shocks I replaced on my coach. I was able to loosen the opposite end of the strut rods enough to push the rod back and stack the bushings on. Worked pretty well and the bushings have lasted over 7 years no problem.

Mine is on the circuit board in the front run bay.

Matt, My 07 Diplomat dash A/C was acting similar to yours. I tried servicing it but never got it to perform any better than you. The high was too high and the low too low and discharge air was higher than I thought it should be. It cooled marginally at idle but at highway speeds the evaporator would freeze up. When I pulled over it would thaw and drain a lot of water. I verified the condenser fan was working by wiring up a remote test light. I then suspected a contaminated expansion valve or drier so I replaced both, evacuated the system and charged it to specs. It works well now. I cut apart the drier and found some rust inside. That led me to think improper servicing might have introduced moisture that led to clogging the expansion valve or a restriction making it freeze up at highway speeds. Roy

Try this: Grind up some cat litter with your foot on the concrete. The finer the better. Then mix this up with some acetone to make a wet paste. Spread this thick over the oil spot and cover with plastic, taping down the edges. Let it sit overnight. Clean it up and check your progress. If needed, repeat.

It could be the Nason parking brake switch. Common issue. There is a paper on this in the files section.

I installed a Victron 12/12-18 DC-DC charger because I have Lithium batteries in the house and the Magnum Smart Battery combiner was not configurable enough to keep my starting batteries up without subjecting them to excessive charge voltage. The Victron can be easily configured to match your particular charge requirements and their app is pretty good. I paid $164 for it on Amazon for the Isolated version.

Yeah, HDMI would be simpler. It should be pullable through that channel about as easily as Cat5.

I ran Cat 5e cable down the driver’s side in the channel that is formed by the roof curving over to the upper beltline. Then I used a HDMI extender over cat5 to get the signal from my Wally to the rear tv. I previously used an Actiontec wireless HDMI extender for about 7 years with success but lately the signal was being affected by some other signals, particularly when near airports. The cat 5 extender seems to work great. The upper channel can be accessed by removing the A-pillar covers above the driver’s seat at the corner of the windshield. At the rear, I removed my CB panel to find a wire bundle at the back wall. I cleaned out the foam and was then able to snare the wire I had pulled to that point. For pulling the wire, I used a Magne Pull which is a strong magnetized roller on a handle and a torpedo that I attached a pull cord to. My wife fed the pull cord as I pulled it down the channel from the outside. A good snake might also work. Roy

Rich, I got two 50’ rolls of the plastic cap in black at NW RV Supply in Eugene Or about 4 years ago. I think I paid around $25-30 per roll. They had a pallet of it on hand. Roy

Mike, Your configuration is probably the same as mine. My rear camera was intermittently loosing picture. I took the camera off and fed the cable out far enough to get to the connector. Then I disconnected the connector and cleaned it and reconnected it. My issue went away. Unfortunately, the cable just hangs across the cavity between the back wall and rear cap. If you drop it, you will have a tough time retrieving the end. I clipped a hemostat on mine while I worked on it. Roy

I just replaced my IOTA transfer switch. The picture shows a teal weakness in the connections on the terminal strip. Note some of the wires are only gripped across about 1/3 of their section. Had they crimped sleeves over the ends it would be much better. But two stranded wires under one screw is asking for trouble.

Dale, It’s not a hard DIY job if you are inclined. Lippert’s web site has rebuild instructions and they sell kits that include seals, wear ring and a new gland for somewhat over $100. Alternatively, you can take the old seals to a hydraulic supply and they can match them up with new ones. If your rod and gland are not scored, that’s all the parts you need. I did this with one of my rear jacks and it cost less than $20 for the parts. Roy

Mike, if you can clear enough space you could try heating the outer tube with a small propane or butane torch to release the element. You only need 100-200 degrees heat to expand it enough to release the corrosion. I know I might get wire brushed for suggesting this, so please don’t. I’ve done this and understand the risks. Roy

Mike, One other thing to consider is that the piston may be unscrewing from the rod causing it to hit the end of the cylinder before the rod is fully retracted. This happened to me. Fortunately I was able to catch it before it came completely off and ruined the jack. The piston is supposed to be retained with Loctite but I couldn’t see any evidence of it in mine. Power gear claimed they had never seen this, but I doubt that due to the nature of the assembly. I posted a white paper on IRV2 on this about 3 years ago. (Search under “RMCB” postings) The good thing is that the jack is completely rebuildable and parts are readily available either a Powergear rebuild kit, or you can match the old seals and wear ring up at a hydraulic supply. They are common sizes. My white paper lists the part numbers and I think they were about $17 total for one jack. Powergear also has instructions posted on their web site and the job is not all that difficult. Hopefully this is not your problem but if it is, it’s fixable. Roy

Bob, If you haven’t done so already, you should check the seal between the cooling unit and the ref case. You should peel back the duct/foul tape and look for gaps and water stains, especially along the bottom. This would indicate moisture is condensing between the cooling unit and the ref case. If this is happening you could be experiencing cyclic freezing of the moisture which would cause cooling performance to fluctuate. If you doubt the seal integrity you can shoot some spray foam into the gap and then seal up with foil tape. Roy

07 Diplomat, yes interested.

I just uploaded the 07 Diplomat wiring diagrams. They should be available once the moderator approves them. Roy Frank, I just noticed that there are a set of wiring diagrams already uploaded for the 07 Knight. However, when I tried to download them, Mcafee said that they are dangerous and possibly infected with a virus/spyware. I don't know whether this has something to do with how the files are handled by the web site or whether Mcafee is correct. Any idea how I can get someone to look into this? thanks Roy

Thanks Frank, It will probably take me a couple days to get to it but I’ll upload them as you described. Riy

Larry, I just uploaded them to the forum. Hopefully they have been approved and posted. If not, maybe in a couple more days. Roy

I just tried uploading them to the forum - Title: 07 Diplomat Wiring Diagrams. I think the moderator has to approve them though before they will be posted.

Hi Gary, What I have is a collection of wiring diagrams I got from Monaco a few years ago. They are not specific to the 07 Diplomat but cover most of the systems fairly well. They also cover multiple years and multiple models. Also, there is no organization to them and no listing of systems covered. But I have found them to be generally sufficient. I took mine to Kinkos and had them printed on 11x14 paper and spiral bound. Here is what I have. Roy - Diplomat Print Index.pdf 06 diplomat chassis wd_12v.pdf 03210590 (LABEL, DSS PREP).pdf 03211525 (LABEL, EMS).pdf 03211749 (120V 50A LABEL).pdf 03213628 (LABEL, SOLAR PREP).pdf 03213970 (LABEL, FRONT RUN FUSE).pdf 03214519 (120V 50A LABEL).pdf 03214522 (LABEL, INT FUSE PANEL).pdf 16616143 (FUSE CENTER, 12V).pdf 16620962 (PANEL, 12V FRONT DISTRIBUTION).pdf 16622595rH.dwg.pdf 16622596.dwg.pdf 16623110b (REAR VISION-ALADDIN-NAV).pdf 16623156e (DIAGRAM, PASS CONSOLE SW PNL).pdf 16623276 (DIAGRAM, CONVENIENCE CENTER).pdf 16623693 (DIAGRAM, RV SANI-CON).pdf 16624138a (DIAGRAM, SHIFTER DASH PANEL).pdf 16624139d (DIAGRAM, IGNITION DASH PANEL).pdf 16624140b (DIAGRAM, PANEL DRIVER'S DASH SW).pdf 16624141a (DIAGRAM, DASH HVAC PANEL).pdf 16624142b (DIAGRAM, ENTRANCE SW PANEL).pdf 16624609a (DIAGRAM, 08 EPA DASH PANEL).pdf 16624810 (DIAGRAM, IGNITION DASH PANEL).pdf 38040005 (DIAGRAM, 120V AC).pdf 38040463 (DIAGRAM, AIR DUMP).pdf 38040501a (DIAGRAM, ICC LIGHTS).pdf 38040901 (DIAGRAM, FOG LAMPS).pdf 38040913 (DIAGRAM, BATTERY COMPARTMENT).pdf 38040915 (DIAGRAM, AUXILIARY START).pdf 38040925 (DIAGRAM, GENERATOR).pdf 38040926 (DIAGRAM, SOLAR PLANEL WIRING).pdf 38040940 (DIAGRAM, AIR HORN WIRING).pdf 38040947 (DIAGRAM, INT FUSE PNL DISC).pdf 38040964 (DIAGRAM, FURNACE).pdf 38040983a (DIAGRAM, ELECTRIC POWER STEP).pdf 38040992 (DIAGRAM, POWER MIRROR WIRING).pdf 38041026 (DIAGRAM, HOLDING TANK WIRING).pdf 38041033 (DIAGRAM, 120V 50A TRANSFER SW).pdf 38041044 (DIAGRAM, POWER AWNING).pdf 38041495 (DIAGRAM, 120V 50A DISTRIBUTION).pdf 38041496 (DIAGRAM, 120V 50A DISTRIBUTION).pdf 38050875 (DIAGRAM, WATER HEATER).pdf 38051318 (DIAGRAM, AUTO GEN START).pdf 38051619.dwg.pdf 38051620 (DIAGRAM, DASH AC).pdf 38060421 (HARNESS, FLOOR).pdf 38060424 (DIAGRAM, COOLING FAN).pdf 38060432 (DIAGRAM, OVERHEAD DEFROST FAN).pdf 38060453 F (12V FRONT DISTRIBUTION WIRING).pdf 38060702 (DIAGRAM, SUPPL BRAKE SYSTEM).pdf 38060829 (DIAGRAM, COLD WTHR PKG).pdf 38060867 (Annunciator Module Assy).pdf 38061599 (DIAGRAM, SMART WHEEL).pdf 38061895.dwg.pdf 38061931.dwg.pdf 38070256 (DIAGRAM, SPEAKER LAYOUTS).pdf 38070837 (ALADDIN CAMERA & NAV CONN).pdf 38070837a (ALADDIN CAMERA & NAV CONN).pdf 38070881.dwg.pdf 38070982 (CHART 120V 40PDQ).pdf 38070983 (CHART 12V 40PDQ).pdf 38071009 (12V LAYOUT 40SFT).pdf 38071010 (120V LAYOUT 40SFT).pdf 38071036 (12V LIGHTING 40SKQ).pdf 38071037 (CHART 120V 40SKQ).pdf 38071127.dwg.pdf 38071221 (120V LAYOUT 36PDQ).pdf 38071222 (12V LIGHTING 36PDQ).pdf 38071377 (ELECTRIC STEP COVER).pdf 38071379b (DIAGRAM, KEYLESS ENTRY).pdf 38071412.dwg.pdf 38071414.dwg.pdf 38071415.dwg.pdf 38071416.dwg.pdf 38071439.dwg.pdf 38071440 (DIAGRAM, EXHAUST BRAKE).pdf 38071440.dwg.pdf 38071456.dwg.pdf 38071497.dwg.pdf 38071516.dwg.pdf 38071518.pdf 38071519.pdf 38071520.pdf 38071521.dwg.pdf 38071532.dwg.pdf 38071533.dwg.pdf 38080176.dwg.pdf 38080188c ('08 HOME THEATER).pdf 38080286c (DIAGRAM, KVH SATELLITE COAX).pdf 38080398 (HARNESS ROUTING 40PDQ).pdf 38080401 (HARNESS ROUTING 12V 40SFT).pdf 38080415 (HARNESS ROUTING 36PDQ).pdf 38081035 (REAR VISION-NAVIGATION).pdf 38081063 (DIAGRAM, DIGITAL ROOF 50 AMP AC).pdf Kubota engine.pdf Monaco Electrical Diagram Index.docx Hi Gary, What I have is a collection of wiring diagrams I got from Monaco a few years ago. They are not specific to the 07 Diplomat but cover most of the systems fairly well. They also cover multiple years and multiple models. Also, there is no organization to them and no listing of systems covered. But I have found them to be generally sufficient. I took mine to Kinkos and had them printed on 11x14 paper and spiral bound. Here is what I have. Roy Hmmmm....not sure the files transmitted. My copy of my response shows them Unavailable. If you can't see them, let me know and I will try something else. Or maybe, I can figure out how to post them on the forum.

You are welcome Gary. We’ve had our 07 Diplomat for over 7 years now. At this point, there is hardly a system that I haven’t touched. There is a wealth of information on this forum and iRV2. Don’t hesitate to reach out. There will always be those who say leave it to the pro’s but others who will tackle anything. Figure out where you fit and there will be someone with the experience to help you. All the best, Roy

Gary, Your coach is the same as mine. Your belt is Gates: K080830HD , or Cummins: 3972263. Your tensioner is Cummins: 3950-01-503-4617, p/n 3976831. It will cross to aftermarket if you desire. Belt replacement is not that hard but you will probably get your arms dirty. You will need a long (2’) ratchet, breaker bar, or belt change tool to release tension while you slip the belt off the tensioner, and also to put it back on. Just take note of the routing. You will have to route most of the belt from above. Especially as you thread the belt around the fan blades. You will probably want to remove the engine cover rear extension in the closet. You can unscrew the closet door rail and twist the rail out without taking out the closet doors. But the doors come out pretty easily. I cut a bevel on the back side of my rail to allow the engine cover to come out without removing the rail. Just takes time and patience. Would be nice to have a helper but I never do. I’ts a good skill to have in case you throw a belt on the road. good luck! Roy

John, I truly appreciate you taking the time to reply with details. You have done some impressive work. Makes me want to get going! Cheers Roy