RNMCBR

Jeff, I ran 2 ethernet cables from the A-pillar on the driver’s side to the rear cap where I then ran them into the TV slide-out on the opposite side. My coach, and probably yours has wire traces at the top of the side walls where the roof is curved over and attached to the side wall. This rounded over triangular cavity has wires running through it already. However, I had difficulty pushing a snake or fiberglass rod through it because they hung up on what seemed to be clamps or whatever is securing the wire bundles. So I used a Magnepull kit to drag the magnetic torpedo with a cord attached, along the top of the cavity using the included magnetic-roller handle. The torpedo was held tight against the thin fiberglass and followed the rolling magnet with little difficulty. Once I got the torpedo to the rear cap I used the attached cord to pull the ethernet cables through to the rear. This actually worked very well. I think you could do the same and there are several similar wire pulling devices available on Amazon. I got the magnepull because it looked like it would be the strongest and most versatile. good luck and let me know if my explanation is not clear. Roy

That’s what I thought. It’s always so clean I couldn’t believe you ever used it. Has Cummins ever asked to use yours as s display engine? They should.

Harry, Your jack valve body looks way too clean. Are you sure you’ve used it or don’t keep your coach in a sealed clean room? Roy

You might try de-glazing your brake shoes by performing several hard stops. That seemed to help mine.

Keith, I have the same coach as you. My 12v wiring for the headboard and under cabinets comes from a bundle under the head of the bed in the bed box, under a panel that covers the slideout mechanism. If you remove that panel you can see where the bundle comes out if the coach floor and goes into the slideout wall. The bundle has connectors and also slack that allows it to extend with the slide out. A loose connection or broken wire there could be the source of your problem. If you don’t find a ground problem like Tom suggests, you might check the wiring there.

Maybe it’s for a surround sound speaker. That’s where mine is located.

I released my mirror from the foam tape with a tool I made from a hack saw blade. I ground the teeth flat so they wouldn’t dig into the paneling or scratch the mirror back. I bent the end so I could hold it with a pair of vice grips and heated it with a propane torch. It cut through the tape pretty easily.

Also, check your driver’s window sealant at the upper front corner. Most coaches of this vintage have a plastic molding that terminates there and this a leakage prone area. My coach had this problem. Water entered here, traveled down the inside of the outer wall and ran out on the floor under the drivers seat. It also migrated through wiring access holes to the front run bay.

Bobby, Here is a picture showing the GFCI in my 07 Diplomat 38PDQ. It is in the bathroom. If you have an outlet in this same place, maybe someone previously removed the GFCI and replaced it with a standard outlet. I replaced mine because of nuisance tripping. Also, I have experienced problems with a coach outlet that has “push on” type connectors on the back, where the wires are held in a slit similar to “scotch splices. A wire came loose and caused the outlet to be intermittently open. A friend of mine had the microwave outlet come apart like this and it was arcing. Your hairdryer issue might be related to something like this. Roy

This may be somewhat relevant to the part about getting signal to the bedroom. I previously struggled with wireless HDMI extenders to get Direct Tv and Dish signal from the box in front. The wireless extenders worked but were sensitive to RF interference, especially around airports. so I tried HDMI over Cat5e. I was able to snake a cable from the driver’s side pillar to the rear cavity behind the electrical panels. Then ran it behind covers along the back of the coach and into the bundle that feeds the curbside bedroom slide, and up the outside slide wall to the tv cabinet. The curved section along the top of the outside walls where the roof meets the upper mold line is hollow and has existing wiring in it. To avoid snagging clamps, etc, I used a wire pulling set called “Magnepull”. It uses a strong roller magnet and matching magnetic torpedo to enable pulling wires through hidden spaces. This allowed me to pull 2 strands of Cat5e (one for spare/futures) along the top of the curved section to avoid snagging. It worked well. So does the HDMI extender. If I were to do it over I would probably upgrade to Cat6 shielded to potentially improve signal quality and limit potential A/C interference. There appears to be some romex cable also running down this channel. I hope this helps someone wanting to get wires from the front to back. Roy PS: I also used this method to pull a wire for my Winegard Connect 2.0 from the refer vent to the front audio cabinet. But for this I had to drill a hole from the vent framing through the outer roof framing. These pieces of framing are separated by about 3/4” or so. Overall, not too difficult.

You might also check the oilite bushings in the step linkage. Mine were worn. They are a common size that can be sourced from McMaster, Granger or the hardware store. You may have to cut down the length to match the thickness of the linkage arms.

I agree. You can see the setup is pretty simple. I just took a little fiddling with an indicator to get it oriented horizontal to the mill table. An experienced machinist could do this in a few minutes.

Although my engine is an ISL, I was able to mill my manifold straight on my Bridgeport with a simple fly cutter. I actually did two and got them flat enough that I couldn’t get a .002 feeler gauge between my mill table and the flanges. I think any reasonable machine shot could do this.

Steve, My 07 Diplomat should be very similar to your Knight. It uses small relays that are the same as the small SPST relays used in later model GM autos. Here are some pictures of the relays in my rear run panel. I suspect these would work for you and they should be available at any auto parts store. Roy

I recently had to fix exhaust leaks on a friends coach then mine. Both are 07 Diplomats with 06 ISL’s. On both manifolds, the leak was at #3 and #6 flanges on the inside. I was able to get a .010 feeler gauge between the flanges and my mill table when the manifolds were checked for straightness. Fortunately, I am able to mill the manifolds myself. I took about .021 off both to get them flat, both pieces. I think if you could find someone or a shop near you that could do this, you could save buying a new one. Attached pictures show the setup and finished job. Two vices, two v blocks, a little indicating and a fly cutter. Not a hard job for someone that has access to a Bridgeport-size mill. If you look closely at the first picture you can see the warp on #3 and #6 ports. Roy

Here are the coordinates of the Monaco Group that meets at LaPosa South. We have had up to 65 coaches but the last 2-3 years only about a third if that. (33.6192460, -114.2096793)

I don’t think there’s much organizing to do. Just show up. LaPosa South about a quarter mile+ before the dump station on the right. We and others will be there. As always, firewood and cookies for Harry are welcome.

Hey Ted, Yes, that’s still the most popular model. You should have no problem. Depending on your mounting though, you may need a slightly longer section of cable between your cord reel and transfer switch. I was able to reuse my old one but mine are mounted in the left rear compartment. Roy

Nice teardown analysis. I always do a teardown and failure analysis to understand what caused it. Many times I am able to fix the failure and then have a spare.

Interesting, here is another IOTA with burned doubled up neutrals. There is a likelihood that the stranded wires are not making good contact. As I showed on mine, only a few of the strands were captured by the screw. If running on generator, and if the generator is a 8000 or below, the two 120 legs are on the same phase and the current carried by the doubled up neutral is the sum of both legs. That’s a recipe for overheating. The lugs appear substantial enough to carry the load. The wires are just not terminated correctly in the lug.

Good to hear. Thanks for the feedback.

In my 07 Diplomat, the fuses for trailer lighting are in a panel in the right rear bay.

I looked at my IOTA transfer switch last year to understand why the terminal lugs would heat up causing a fire or electrical melt. The lugs appear very robust and should easily handle the service current. I was disappointed in what I found. The lugs have holes about .250 in diameter and slotted hold down screws that look like 1/4-28. The problem is, the wiring inside the switch looks like #6 stranded, which is much smaller diameter than the hole. There is no crimped ferrule on the wires. This leads to a stranded wire in a very loose hole that gets smashed and spread by the screw, or only partially pinched by the screw. This could easily lead to insufficient contact between the wire and lug, overheating and meltdown or fire. This problem is even worse on the lugs that have doubled neutral (white) wires. Coincidently, the two failed IOTA transfer switches I have seen both failed at the double neutral connection. This would seem to be a worst case when operating on a 8kw or lower generator because they produce two 110 outputs that are not opposite phase like a utility 220-240 supply. The current at the double neutral lug would therefore be the sum of the currents of the two 110 legs when running on generator. There may be other issues with these switches but this was enough to convince me to replace mine with the ESCO mentioned above. I think if I were unable to replace an IOTA switch like this one right away, I would at least crimp ferrels onto the wire ends to improve the contact at the lugs. The pictures below show what I found. Note some of the wires are only partially pinched by the screw. One of the white wires seems to be captured by no more than 25% of its strands. Not good in my opinion.

I think I used a 2” hole saw for the adjuster clearance. Depending on how accurately you locate it you could probably get by with a 1 1/4” hole.

I did mine a couple months ago. I was able to raise the TV bottom about 4 1/2”. I also rebuilt the rest of the cabinets to eliminate the false fronts and increase the height of interiors. This also included facias to cover the side shades. All the woodwork is solid Cherry with veneer plywood bottoms. I reused the doors. This also gave me opportunity to reorganize the rats nest of wiring up front.