Ivylog

“Well aware that the starter has a solenoid built into it. And that is what has failed repeatedly.” 
Didn’t help posting “Here is picture of failed relay” that is not a starter solenoid. 
Have no idea why you’re having problems although I do not believe it’s  related to being plugged in. 
I used to rebuild 40MT solenoids (still have new contacts and disks... same as what’s in a Big Boy) on equipment that got started several times a day but maybe after 10 years or 10,000 starts.

What is failing in the solenoid, Is it the coil burning up?

That $15 solenoid is only 80 amps continuous and maybe 500A for a second... it’s not a starter solenoid. I bought one as a possible Big Boy replacement and it’s not even good enough for that.

A diesel starter solenoid is on the starter and the above is actually bigger than what you need between the key switch and the 1000A starter solenoid.

Below is a picture of your starter and solenoid. Your + battery cable goes straight to the brass lug at the bottom. A small wire (15 amps max) from the key relay plugs into the black plastic connector on the side.  Assuming the $15 solenoid is between the key and the starter, it obviously (after 4) a PoS. I would try something like the last picture.

Have you looked under the front cap, passenger side for small manual valves? The makeup/ tow  air quick connect has a valve too that drains one of the tanks.

Yes.

Late to the party and realize we are often the only big rig in our favorite CGs ...USFS that do not take reservations out West. We do 2+ months with FHUs only on weekends when we move and resupply, often only for one night. Boondocking for 5 days is easy without cutting back by running the generator 1.5 hours/day. If it’s a holiday weekend we may stay put for more than a week so water conservation is necessary...no macerater toilet.

So some of our favorite USFS CGs are:

Bakers Hole just N of West Yellowstone

Hatchet east of Moran Junction Tetons

Sunset Point, Grand Lake for RMNP

Lakeview at Taylor Park, CO

Junction Creek, Durango, CO

Red Canyon for Bryce and Zion

Jacob Lake for the N Rim

With the old farts pass most are $8-10 although some have expensive elect ($20/night) but with elevation and tree you do not need AC.

Not going to tell you about the free dispersed sites all over the West.

Headed West in a 5 weeks and only reservation is for the Monaco Pre Rally in Gillette, WY end of June.

Usually the line there is a drain with a valve, not a quick connect. Put a gauge on it and see what you have. 

Use a screwdriver in the gap to help lift one end.

4 hours ago, Chuck B said:

I have a problem with coach owners exceeding the weigh carrying capacity of their coach.  Exceeding the weight capacity causes more wear and tear on the chassis and tires causing premature wear.  Not to mention being a hazard to others on the road.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Skimmed back through the posts and didn’t see anyone exceeding the CCC of their rigs or their axle ratings. The reason for using a 315 tire is to reduce the pressure by 12 which results in a less harsh ride up front. The lawyers are concerned that someone could put more than 115 pounds of pressure in a 315 which would exceed the rating of the rim not that it won’t work on an 8.25 inch rim. If you needed 115 psi not only would you exceed the rims rating, you would be above the axle rating also.

I had the large sliding side window’s outer pane shatter in WY last summer and most of it fell out. Worked with Suncoast Design in Hudson, Fl and had them make/temper a replacement to my measurements. Schedule an appointment into Hudson after Christmas on way south and stayed in their RV area. Took 24 hours for them to remove the entire window and seal the new glass to the inner pane. Looks like new.

Pretty amazing what’s possible today and all things considered, not that expensive. For local flying I sometimes turn it all off.

Nah, electric is the way to go...at least in mowers!

“Us boaters are famous for over-maintaining our craft.  Never want to get stuck adrift somewhere where there is no help.”

Dang, I hope someone comes up with that service (Air Tow US) for me and yes I do oil samples on it too. Helps to have the wheels down when landing. Only 2200 hours over 40 years doing most of the annual inspections myself.

Thanks for the lead up... “Reality is, I Change the air filter in my coach annually.” 

I took a picture of what I do every day with the air filter in my skid steer. I tap the dirt/dust out on the rubber track and put it back in. That filter is probably 5 years old and occasionally I’ll take it to the shop and blow it out with air.

 They put filter minders on our rig for a reason OH, never mind...change the oil and all filters every year. New tires at 5 years (If cracking Michelin’s probably a good idea)  drive it every month and exercise the generator too...only in the RV world..

Best estimate of hours on equipment I’ve owned without a engine failure is 150,000+ hours with most in a mining operation over 20 years. Did have a erosion/cavitation liner pin hole on a early turbo diesel before we knew cca was needed.

“My boat mechanic advised I change once in the spring and once in the fall (up north).  The idea was to put into storage with fresh oil, and then start fresh at the beginning of the season.”

So the new oil sits in the bottom of the pan over the winter. If he drains it out, he  probably puts it in another boat as new oil, which it is. How can the boat sit all winter but we’re supposed to run our engines every month...only in the RV world were annual air filter replacement was recently recommended by a manufacturer’s idiot (not on this forum).

Folks, do whatever you want as it’s only money. If $25 is too much to find the health of your engine and oil, don’t do a oil sample. If changing  annual with only a couple thousand miles makes you feel better...”Just Do It”.

There’s a good possibility that those that change the MH’s oil annually also change the oil every 3,000 miles in their cars like the sticker in the windshield calls for. Consumers reports debunk’d that myth 50 years ago in Checker Cabs in New York City. No difference in engine wear in the cabs that went 5000 miles between oil change.

I use 5000 miles because I can look at the odometer to know when the oil needs changing...own to many vehicles. One vehicle recommends synthetic oil so I go 10,000 miles between oil changes in it. If you change annually there is no reason to use synthetic oil as you are just throwing away more money each year.

Before you do your annual oil change,  pull an oil sample which will tell you the condition of your engine, which is good to know, and how much longer you could go on your oil...$25 or $200+ for a DP.

A $25 oil sample will give you better advice than what some are giving you. I take a sample at 15K miles and based on the good results , change at 20K...every 2-3 years. When I shut the engine off, it doesn’t get restarted until the next trip... could be 4+ months.

Started oil sampling 50 years ago when Cat recommended 100 hour oil changes ... went to 250 hours as that was easier to keep track of as the oil was still OK.

Your cruise has to work...engage or it will show a fault.
 

He’ll do a software update on your CPU for $350 and has updated CPUs for $1200. 
rjyblood@gmail.com

Yes #2 on the J12 pug is burnt. Soldered a wire from the board bypassing the J12-2 contact with no change. Can hear a relay clicking when switching from Hi/Low in the VIP controller.

Helping 2 rigs with no low beam lights... high works. Does only the low beams run through the VIP smart wheel controller?

Using the boost switch when starting the generator should solve the need for more starting amps. I’m building six 100AH for a total of 600AH of Lithium’s.

Instead of adding a dc-dc charge limiter, I’m thinking if adding a heat sensor to the alternator that will disconnect power  to it when it gets to hot???

My intermittent issue was the connection at floor level like Frank posted above. 

26 minutes ago, Twomed said:

All In The Family...you are my prophet Dick  🙂

I'm meeting up with them in Destin in a couple of weeks for our summer western adventure so the problem is solved for now...

Glad you are going West . Daughter can’t leave until July 1 but we may leave earlier.

Agree with Randy that it’s the missing ring...could be stolen from another fitting instead of replacing the entire fitting.

I may have messed up having just talked our daughter into buying a 06 HR Navigator with a Detroit 60. Now I’m working on 3 rigs. Only major thing it needs are two 315’s for the front.

Couple years ago I bought a W01-358-9376 air bag made by Blacktech off EBay for $110 as a spare. A year ago it was $125 and currently I do not find it listed.

Did find Firestone for $172 instead of VanHorn’s $169.

https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=8571&gclid=CjwKCAjwvMqDBhB8EiwA2iSmPGF9EqqSX-g1MUWxkTsQSRFd8qb_0NDNn3Ec1TjUceYVMBBb-80IPxoCvTYQAvD_BwE

The King Jack head replacement ($40) is what I would buy. It’s less directional and while 3’ higher than the roof is not much, it helps the signal strength. The ACs will block the signal to a roof mounted antenna.