Ivylog

I doubt anyone on here has steel rims on the front so aluminum. I’ve seen as low as 7400 lbs up to our rims that are 7650. Looked up what a Alcoa 8.25” is rated... 2400 lbs but found it interesting that it’s rated for a 315 tire.

Shade tree here...if leak is minimal, put a diaper on to catch the leak and oil is cheap. After moving, bump the opposite direction to take the pressure off.

I’ve had good luck putting Lucas transmission seal additive in the hoses going to a leaking cylinder on a machine.

I look for the scales left on too so I can weigh, especially those with room to weigh one side at a time. Part of the reason I’m heavy on the rear is I’m picking up 1800 lbs 3’ off the back adding 2500 lbs to the rear and 700 off the front.

Hi jacking even more... at 15000, I would go go 315s on the front. Yes, I know they are now not recommended on a 8.25” rim...were in the past when I starting using. I’ve reduced the front psi -12 for over 60,000 miles without any problems. The issue is a 8.25” rim is only rated for 7600 lbs which can be exceeded if you use 115+ psi. I put 40K on Firestone FS400 on my Dynasty. Took off 5 year old cracking Michelin’s and replaced with 315 HSR2sa Continental which run quieter at 40 mph and the Firestone’s were out of stock.

Not that it makes any difference to me, the Continental is still approved on a 8.25” rim with the following footnote: 315/80R22.5 tires used on 8.25” rims are restricted to a maximum of 7610 lbs at. 120 psi.

A 2007 Thunder has the same axle ratings as my 08 Navigator... 15,160- 23,000 & 12,000. My axle weights are 14,400, 22,900, & 10,500 which is a lot heavier than the Dynasty I put 11Rs on the rear.

Al H, it would help if you posted your axle weights.

2000 lbs difference on the drive concerns me... I would check your ride height on the drive axle. Pretty sure it’s 9” between the metal mounting plates. Hopefully the lite side is less than 9” or the heavy side is more than 9”. What are the measurements on the front? IF all 4 are 9” I would increase the 2 on the driver’s side to 9.5” and reweigh.

Overloading the drive axle (lifting the tag) concerns me more than overloading the tire since you can only do it at low speed. I haven’t raised my tag in a decade as the tire scrubbing is not an issue and turning radius is about the same. I have found 30 psi in the tag’s airbags gives a good balance.
Many new, overweight rigs have gone to a steering tag as many are carrying 12,000+ lbs...raising would overload the drive by 60+%. 

Once I put 315s on the front there was no need for 295s on the rear so 11Rs worked well for me.

The Alison 3000 & 4000 6 speed transmissions only use the torque converter in 1st & 2nd gears. Starts in 1 unlocked then the torque locks, shifts to 2 unlocked and then the torque locks before shifting to 3 locked, 4 locked, 5 locked which is a overdrive & 6 locked a double overdrive.  In some ways it’s a 8 speed tranny.
A turbo Diesel engine is slow to get going because the turbo isn’t doing much until you get above 1400 rpms which takes awhile even with a torque converter that lets it increase rpms quicker.

OP, had a 04 Dynasty for 14 years. I’d start with 110 psi  in the fronts if you are not going FTime...80 in the drive and 75 in the tag. If loading for FT add 5 psi to those #s and then go weigh again with the adjustable tag psi at 40.

if you are putting tires on it, you do not need 295s on the rear. A 11R22.5 is the same diameter and probably the most common truck tire...$400 +/-. You have to run +10 psi as they have a lower load rating.

Dickbell07@gmail.com 

thanks 

Posted back in December that Diesel would be $3.00 by summer, up from $2.25. Paid $2.79 couple weeks ago on way home in Georgia and it’s still the same. 

Haven’t used a truck stop in 13 years, ever since Pilot bought FlyJ. GasBuddy has saved me Thousands of $s and Sam’s Club usually has the lowest price plus their credit card gives 5% back.
I did get the TSD card but have yet to find it cheaper and no 5% back.

I often fill up in K City or Lincoln NB and Sam’s price is $2.36 and $2.41 plus 12 cents back. TSD is $2.42 and $2.64 plus a couple cents, respectively.

The Delco I took off is a plantary gear reduction starter but not near as good as the Denso. With probably 5,000 cranking amps (boost on) it barely started.

Bought 3  recently. Naturally it was after having a major flood in our home at night.

We turn the water pump off when traveling, turning on only when needed.

X2 on the short term memory going south.

Bought a Denso R5 428000-4440 starter 3 years ago but mechanic said it wasn’t a replacement because it had fewer teeth than the Delco he took off my ISX. Did more research and it is the correct one because the gear is off center in the hole. Last month the engine would barely turn over using the boost... nothing without using it so time to replace.

Had a heck of a time getting the Delco off as it takes a 16” extension rendering an impact worthless. The Denso is much shorter and only had to reroute the positive cable to make it connect.

Had disconnected all 3 negative battery grounds so tested each battery by seeing if one at a time would turn it over. Each one did and with all three batteries connected, it turned it over faster than ever before even without using the boost. Hard to believe a motor half the size of what I took off spins a 15 liter engine so fast.

Using AGMs for starting batteries is a waste of money. Two maintenance free lead acid batteries with 1200 A each is all you need.

Hopefully it’s not burnt wire/connection on the VIP smart wheel controller in the front run box.

Agree you have something wrong.

Replaced the 10 year old Interstate 31 batteries in OR because no sales tax and I could keep them. One battery would still start my ISL 400 so put them in a 24V machine for another 4 years.

I do not have a problem running 2 15K ACs plus the residential refrigerator on 30 amps. I do turn the ice maker off in the refer and the electric in the AHot.

When replacing the old TV in our 04 Dynasty, I got rid of the switching box... new TV has multiple inputs.

X2 on the antenna amp has to be off for the park cable TV to work because both the OTA coax and the park’s cable go to the amp.

X2 on splitters after the amp for multiple TVs... only one output coax from the amp.

X3 on having to channel search every time you move or switch from OTA to park cable. 

OP, this statement doesn’t add up “The coax from the antenna and cable hookup in the bay goes to the amplifier in the cabinet above the driver seat. Evidently the two inputs (antenna and bay cable) merge somewhere, because only one input goes to the amplifier.”... they do not join together. Sounds like you have the amp below with 3 inputs and 2 outputs. Set one output is on the faceplate of the below amplifier.

Even with only one elect element I rarely had to use the diesel unless dry camping resulting in doing the @annual” maintenance every 3-4 years.

All lights are 12V...off batteries if not plugged in.

Paul helped me get the correct limit switch (V155-1C25) to correct my ball valve not closing...blinking led #11 on the OEM  board. Wanted the part on hand so I would only have to pull the toilet one time.

Removed the switch without removing the entire mechanism but decided it would be easier with the mechanism removed to put the new switch in... a mistake in hindsight.

Had to remove the toilet several times getting the ball valve and seal aligned properly so it would hold water again.

It was as definitely on the passenger side on my 04 Dynasty.

Get a size 30 diaphragm (NAPA) and remove the bolt / U clamp that holds the 2 half’s of the chamber together. Replace diaphragm and bolt back together. There is a weak spring that returns the rod but not strong enough to stop you from putting the 2 half’s back together. 

After having a true center, doubt you’ll like anything that’s not adjustable on the fly. Previous owner put one on my Navigator but after 4000 miles I disconnected it. Under perfect conditions (level road and no wind) it worked fine but any crosswinds it made driving tiring as you had to fight it. I decided I would not use it unless I could change/adjust the center point on the fly. Too cheap to buy a $600 air activated adjustable mount so I made my own. 
 

With power steering I have my doubts about how much it helps in a blowout.

 There’s more info on what I did here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/making-a-safe-t-plus-adjustable-451209.html

If it’s a hydraulic slide hold the switch down for 5 seconds in both directions several times after it stops moving. Yes, I know this doesn’t sound like a good idea, BUT there is a 3rd synchronizing cylinder that needs centering.

I’ve bought a lot of Diesel over the years... bought off road Diesel for 12 cents (gas was $0.26) and never in the winter when the price goes up...home heating oil demand. The jet engine balanced out the gas-diesel imbalance plus diesel has 15% more btus than gasoline...don’t mind paying a little more.

With the slowdown in travel... thousands of jet airplanes parked, there is a glut of jet A/diesel fuel. Bought off road recently for $1.29.

16 years on 04 Dynasty and 12 years 08 Navigator... no problems plus the TPMS will let you know if you have a leak.