Ivylog

The step stops moving when the motor amps get to high...not going to hurt the steps hitting(stopping) against your platform.

I posted when starting this thread “Your mileage and opinions may vary.” My research, opinion, and eventually 60,000 miles supports a 315 on a 8.25” rim decreases the required pressure -12 psi compared to a 295 as long as your front axle weight is 15,200 or less...the max two 8.25” rims are rated to carry. The max a 315 can carry as a dual is 7600 lbs at 120 psi with NO derating because you are not exceeding the rim’s rating of 7600 lbs. If you look at a 9” rim, it’s not the 9% increase in width that stands out, it’s the 50% increase in the thickness of the dish that increases its rating to 10,000 lbs.

11R22.5 is probably the most common truck tire...should be less expensive and no reason to pay Michelin’s inflated prices. A Toyo 11R can carry 6320 at 110... same as your chart above at hundreds $$ less.

Thanks everyone for keeping this a 295/315 discussions...OK, I threw in 11Rs. Would I use a 315 on a 8.25” rim if I had to run 120+psi...heck no as that could put 9,000 lbs on a rim designed for 7600 lbs. The key for me deciding to use a 315 without derating its carrying capacity was when used as a dual it wasn’t derated because it didn’t exceed 7600 lbs. Based on the 40,000 miles I put on my Dynasty with 315s, it was a easy choice to use them on my Navigator ...105 psi instead of 117 in a 295. No noticeable uneven wear, but only 20K miles is not a good test. As I said originally, 10 years ago more manufacturers included a 8.25” rim for a 315...Continental still does. As Chuck said, a lot of US tour buses use Firestone and Continental tires. Since our tires age out, I doubt there’s any difference between using a HSR2 or a -SA. After decades of Michelin only, I stopped buying them 15 years ago when Michelin would not stand behind their XRV that some, fortunately, blew out standing still. Unbelievable the # of different 22.5 tires Michelin makes. Doubt in our application it makes any difference which one as long as you don’t mind them cracking at 4 years.

So we should run max sidewall pressure (regardless of load table psi) to decrease the amount of flex??! Strange that my 315s do not run any hotter than the 295s they replaced. Good catch...they have 6 Toyo M144 295/80/22.5 for $2500 or $417/tire.

Chuck, that’s a really good price for 295s. Does that ($410) include tax? I have a local tire shop that charges $25/tire to mount. 4 295s can carry the same load as 4 11R22.5 at 5 less psi ((100 instead of 105 for 23K lbs). I add 5 psi to the load tables because I still go when there are strong crosswinds which is most of the time out West...picture is of how much crab my adjustable stabilizer will correct for.

Son has decided to keep the 04 Dynasty

I had Firestone FS400 315s on my Dynasty...were back ordered when needing ones for my Navigator. When I’m out of the US I look at what tires are on tour buses. In Western Canada most have Continental. In Portugal they were Triangle. In France, yes Michelin. Surprised that a 45’ 07 Navigator didn’t have room for 315s. 10 years ago Michelin listed a 8.25 for a 315...knew that was no longer true.

I put 315s on the front of my 04 Dynasty 10 years ago... when more manufacturers approved them on a 8.25” rim. Contrary to what some say about derating the psi (very little advantage over 295s) the issue is a 8.25” rim is only rated for 7600 lbs. A 315 as a dual is not derated because at max psi (120 psi) it is NOT exceeding 7600 lbs... I kept reading the footnotes on derating. Today fewer manufacturers list a 8.25” rim for a 315... more lawyers have gotten involved. I put 40K miles on the Dynasty with 315s at 12 psi less than what a 295 needed... no unusual wear although both outer edges of the tires were worn slightly more than the middles. Yes the RFront is a tight fit on a 42’ rig...not so on a 45’ rig. One of the first things I did to my 08 Navigator was removing the 4 year old cracking Michelin’s and put 315 Continental on. The first thing was to slide under and adjust the TRW box after 200 miles of ownership. Have only put 18K miles on the 315s but I cannot feel or see any unusual wear. Even with wider front steps, there is plenty of room for a 315 on a 45’ coach. Once I put 315s on the front there was no need for 295s on the rear so I put the same diameter 11Rs on, increasing the psi 8 because of the lower load carrying. Have not decided if I’ll do the same on the Navigator because the drive is at 23K. Why can Michelin use 5 less psi??? PSI is pounds per square inch so Michelin’s have a bigger footprint... softer sidewalls and possible a slightly wider tread. Your mileage and opinions may vary.

The OP’s 2001 Sig is before the weight on the front axle increased to near max for 295 tires and the axle...why I referenced 100 psi in the front tires. One solution for those having to run max psi is to go to 315s on the front. Instead of highjacking this thread about using 315s, I’ll start a new one or add to one that’s appropriate. Once I put 315s on the front of my 04 Dynasty, there was no need for 295s on the rear...hence the 11Rs.

Previous owners put a Safe-T-+ on our 08 Navigator. I disconnected it after 4K miles as it made driving noticeably tiring compared to 80K miles without one on the same chassis. Made my own adjustable on the fly mount (to cheap to pay $550 for a trip kit) so I can neutralize the push from crosswinds. Would not buy one unless it’s adjustable on the fly. Safe-T-+ started when there was no power steering...I have my doubts how much good it does with power steering in a blowout. After the loud bang, you will have to steer opposite to the side that blew (not straight ahead) which will be against the stabilizer. Definitely get the ARP control system for your NoCold 1200...better control of it than the bandaid black box recall...it’s work so well it’s up to Revision F on it. Assuming the front tire have 110 psi in them, I would not replace BECAUSE I would put 6 11R22.5 on the rear (most common truck tire and same diameter as a 295. On the rear you do not need the load carrying of a 295...you do on the front. Any brand other than overpriced, cracking Michelin’s... Toyo, Hankook, Hercules Plenty of LED bulbs on EBay for less than $1...G4 12 5050 in warm white.

I think some rollers are in my future. Patching a oil pan on gravel, in the rain, after crossing a dip that didn’t register on the radar as a problem was not fun.

Posted in October about replacing my ISX oil pan after cracking a corner...bad oil leak. Got around to cleaning it up (remove JB weld and fiberglass patch) and it had dragged multiple times and there was even a star shaped crack in the middle of the bottom. Had a local metal working shop weld it up in multiple places. The first picture is the corner repair that was cracked in 3 directions. The multiple beads is to build it up where its dragged before cracking it. 2nd is the crack in the middle and you can see where it’s dragged before...upper part of the picture. 3rd picture is inside and the actual lengths of the cracks. I’m going to increase my rear ride height to 10+ inches in the hopes that stops it from dragging.

In 2012 a highway bill made 24,000 lbs legal on a single axle for MHs and Buses. Around 2003 Monaco DOs got so bloated (longer, multiple slides, tile, extra) that they had very little CCC. The solution was adding a 10K tag axle. Fortunately Monaco used some 23K drive axles in 2004-09... my 08 Navigator has a 23K drive which it needs even with a tag. Around 2005-6, Monaco moved the fuel tank further back (not right behind the front axle) to lesson the weight on the front axle.

04 Dynasty...85 drive and 75 tag based on axle weighs. Put 6 11R 22.5 on the rear at 10 years and had to increase pressures to 95 and 80. The rear doesn’t need the load carrying of a 295.

The starter fuse/wire goes to the starter solenoid. The fuel/wire probably goes to the ECM on your DD60. Doubt a wiring diagram will show anything more.

Not familiar with the DD60 (newer) but it could be providing the ECM the signal to let the injectors fire and that’s why it’s only 5 A. This is only a educated guess.

Older engines the solenoid is in/on the injection pump. Newer engines with electronic injectors there is not a solenoid. Agree 30A is excessive...I use a 20A auto reset breaker/fuse on both after being put on the side of the road when the fuel fuse blew. The key to figuring it out was no lift pump when the key turned on...back on the road in an hour.

There are 2 fuses on the rear start board...left one is for the starter circuit and right is for the fuel solenoid.

I had my doubts about using a air freshener, but citrus is now my go to cleaner after using it to remove the glue under the 3M film.

Citrus air freshener works well or anything with citrus oil in it.

I would splice a new bulb socket into the wiring.

Coach Steps is now Lippert.

These steps are used on 07-09 Monaco Sig. EXe and Dynasty plus Beaver Marquis. Not a great idea to use ball beating slides where dirt can get into them.Bottom ball bearing slide on my double steps (Coach Step Inc)’ needed replaced as the steps would not close without some help... slide bent and ball bearings missing on one side. Another member posted that the 500lb slides were Knape & Vogt Kv8900 B22 22” ...$109 for 2 on EBay instead of that much for one from Monaco. Getting the steps removed was not too bad...removed by myself and only 6 bolts and several plugs. Had already built gravel ramps to get the MH higher having replaced the oil pan. Used a sharp chisel to remove the pop rivets plus a 1/8 Allen to remove 2 small bolts. The new slide was an exact replacement... no drilling. The new slide has a center recess (2nd picture) so there really isn’t any reason to remover the steps from the MH... all pop rivets can be installed from the outside unlike the one I removed.Had a little help getting the steps back in by myself. Did pressure clean the other 3 slides while I had the steps out. Naturally I decided to enclose the bottom and back of the steps after putting them back in... would have been easier when I had them out. Hopefully enclosing will keep most of the dirt out that clogs the slides. Fortunately it was still on the ramps so getting underneath was fairly easy. Bought 2 $6 plastic sign boards (19X24”) at H D. Used the metal legs to pin the 2 boards together and taped them together. Cut it down to a 30.4X24” piece so it would slide in on top of the 2 angle iron cross braces. Taped it in place and put the 8.6X24 piece across the back and taped up the 6” hole at the back...needed a 30” piece to fill completely. Painted it black not that you can see it.

Not sure a tech would think to pivot the hitch...took me awhile to come up with that idea and I wasn’t sure it would work. The drip was less than 2 oz in 2 months, but if the 2 patches came off you could ruin a engine before someone behind waved you over. I wasn’t to concerned about the JB weld coming off because after grinding the 3 U, I put the cutoff disk on and cut groves in both sides of the U. The first pan I found was $1500 but I kept searching using some of the #s from it. Amazing what all you can find today on the internet.