MyronTruex

Breakers get tired and wear out so a replacement is in order. Not knowing the size of your AC unit, going to a 20 amp might not be a great idea but 15 amps seems borderline for sure. 
Did you take the cover off the air condenser. Probably not the right name but the radiator thing that has the air blow through to cool it. They are a bit of a pain to clean but they can get really dirty. 
As a temporary test after cleaning, if it still pops the breaker. You may be able to swap the breakers in question. Staying right there to see if the AC runs ok on the 20 amp. 

That is enough to run them down, but not enough for me to chase it in an RV. In a car that would be terrible. 150 ma is about as much as I would want 
Doing the math at 1/2 amp over X amount of hours will show you how quickly the electron buckets will empty. 

The WR57x111 is on our Dometic double door with ice and water in the door. 
Turns out this is a GE part too. The WRX part number was on the side of the part. 
The ice maker solenoid was leaking water into the freezer and building ice dams. 
 
Note: We have since replaced our 1402 and love the residential unit. Chasing ice maker problems in the 1402 many many times and other complex problems just left me ready for the saws all. Which was handy getting the incredibly heavy thing out the door. The new light weight refer came through the drivers window.
 
 

dometic_rm7030_7732SM and ICE Maker.pdf Ice cube tray.pdf Ice maker Repair.pdf ice maker schematic.pdf Ice maker troubleshooting.pdf
Refer water valve.pdf

Did you take a voltmeter up there? You may not have 110 volts. The relays are likely run by 12 volts.
If you do not find 110 volts inside the AC unit you will have to go to your ac breaker panel and see if there is actually power coming out of the assigned breaker. And if it is there, move on through the load shedding relay board. 
If it is a load shedding issue you can temporarily bypass  that one control relay. 
Of course I'm typing away without knowing what rig you have but this might help. 
 
OK, 2006 Cayman it appears and it most likely has a load shedding device. 

Tom, I see you are in or around Orlando?
If you are nearby I would gladly give you a hand. I'm fairly decent at sorting things out.
You have been given spot on advice but I know the frustrations chasing problems. I suspect you have two issues. The salesmans switch circuit may or may not be reliable on your unit and the "big boy" solenoid that combines batteries could be in desperate need of repair.
Your yr coach may not have a system to charge the engine batteries concurrently with your house batteries. This is common. I won't get into the BIRD/IRD conversation now. I surely don't want to muddy the waters. 
There are lots of options for adding devices to charge the engine batteries. Some incredibly simple and some a bit elegant.