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vito.a

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Posts posted by vito.a

  1. Magnum has great custoner service.  Their inverters are built here so they also have spare parts and hundreds of service centers.  They will also work with lithium and solar  

    Victron is great if you are going to add solar and/or want Bluetooth. 

    Xantrex are made over seas.

  2. I've had the same thing happen.  It's usually because the air tank has not pumped up all the way and/or the suspension is completely aired down.  I touch Cancel, wait a minute and touch Travel again and all is well.

    And, I've had the touch panel and the leveling computer updated.    

  3. Our Windsor came with Goodyear's and they were definitely unsafe.  We had so many blowouts Good Sam dropped our coverage.  We finally figured out the Goodyear's were unsafe and replaced them all with another brand.

    Luckily the Windsor was a pretty safe coach and we did not have any roll overs.  The key is not to jam on the brakes.  But, the tires sure did tear up a lot of stuff when they blew.  

  4. Your thermostat version must match your A/C control board version.  To use a new generation programmable thermostat you must also install new A/C units.  Your current RJ11 cables (phone style) will work with the newer units.  

    Dometic used to sell a conversion control board so you could install the slightly newer 5 button thermostat on the older 4 button A/C units.  They have since moved on to an even newer generation with a programmable thermostat, so the old 5 button conversion boards may be difficult to find.  

    You can rebuild the 4-button thermostat or send it in and have it rebuilt.  

    Frerichs Electronics

    Or here: REPAIR SERVICE of YOUR Duo Therm 4 Button Thermostat Dometic Part# 3106463007 | eBay

  5. The Salesman switch turns on/off a large relay in the front run bay.  The front run bay is the compartment outside below the drivers feet.  Have someone flip the salesman switch on/off while you listen for a click noise inside the compartment. 

    You will see large red 12v cables attached to each side of the relay.  Once you figure out which one, then use your voltmeter to see if there is power on both sides when the salesman switch is in the on position.  

    If the relay is bad (which happens often) you can add a jumper cable from one side to the other until you can replace it.  

  6. When I was searching for solar panels, I calculated the number of watts per square inch for various panels.  The reason is we are limited in space and need to utilize it wisely.  Also, it's difficult to fit the new very large panels down the side of air conditioners.  

     

  7. That's unfortunate.  Many of us have it.  Some more than others.  It's called heat checking.  It's caused by the fiberglass outgassing and forming hairline cracks.  

    It's common in 2002 -2007 motorhomes from almost all manufacturers.  It's more prevalent in darker colors.  You must have an early 2008 model that has the earlier fiberglass.  

    Some coach manufacturers replaced the sidewall fiberglass for the original owners.  Approximate cost was $40k+.  This is the only sure way of preventing it from returning.  

    Mike's Custom Painting has a repaint process that will reduce the chance of it returning, but I don't think anyone will guarantee it.  It helps to use light colors, store it indoors and not to live in the desert southwest.  

    You can see the extensive prep work in post # 541 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-39.html

    In post # 552 he discusses the method to prevent the checking from reoccurring:

    https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-40.html

    If you continue through the thread you can see the finished results. 

    https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/mods-upgrades-to-our-2003-dynasty-237276-41.html

    Paint was done by- Mike's Custom Painting in Bremen, IN

  8. Picture of the cutoff valve and the quick disconnect.  

    I routed the new propane hose above the propane tank across to the passenger side and then rearward into the next compartment where we store the grill.    

    Propane Quick Disconnect.jpg

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  9. I installed a brass T on the regulator input side and then added a Mr. Heater 15' high pressure (600psi) propane hose.  I routed it to the passenger side with a cut off valve and quick disconnect.  The 15' hose is #F271470 from Amazon.  

    I can now connect either our BBQ grill or Blackstone griddle to the quick disconnect and use propane from the onboard tank.  

    Propane regulator and T.jpg

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  10. I replaced ours as the levers had been cut off at the bottom.  I purchased a new set at Veurinks RV Parts.  

    They are expensive!  If you can clean and lube yours to save them, you will save a lot of money.  

    This is a link to the post:

    http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/slide-out-lock-help-416803.html

    See post #11 for replacement black plastic rivets.  

    I should add that I've driven 3000+ miles without operational locks and not had an issue.  

  11. The first one is a 9-10.  The second one is a 6-7.  By the time you get to the third one its a 4.   

    It really helps if you make some 2 x 12 boards to raise the coach.  Some folks also use a piece of steel between the H frame and main frame rail to support the coach.  

  12. I replaced our kitchen flexible drain hose also.  I found a replacement hose and fittings at a large hose supply house.  

    I also had to repair the trolley that the hose hangs on so that it would run smooth. 

    The difficult part is getting in there.  I was able to remove a panel under the cooktop adjacent to this area and access it that way.  

    When done, it's important to zip tie it all properly so it will slide in and out smoothly.  

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