Frank Bergamo

Dead pump?

One thing that I now do when opening the slide in question is to have the Aqua Hot on for a period of time to warm up the spa/drain hose. It is a lot more flexible when warm, totally hard and brittle when cold. Good luck.

Paul Whittle I believe is who you are looking for. Good luck.

Is your diesel burner on? The electric element by itself will not keep up when the temperature drops.

Possibly an AC drain tube

I believe there is a limit switch along the track. Had to manually operate mine to get it to close. Had the tray extended out and shut off the battery disconnect switch. After turning on the battery disconnect switch, would not work until I activated the switch manually, having someone pressing the power switch at the same time. If you attempt this, be careful you don’t get your fingers caught up in mechanism. Hope this helps.

I believe your thermostat has to be set for heat pump or furnace, one or the other, not both. As far as winterizing, it is imperative that you run antifreeze through the Aqua Hot or you will have serious problems later. Blowing out with air does not adequately evacuate the water, must run the pink stuff. Also, you can run Aqua Hot for heating purposes when winterized. Hope this helps.

I think he means to use the electric mode to heat the boiler instead of the diesel mode. 

I would say 0 volts.

On mine, if I shut off the battery disconnect switch, or the Aqua Hot itself,  the switches for the fans both turn off and I have to turn them back on to get them to work. Hope that is what your problem is and nothing more serious. Have fun, these machines can be quite an adventure!

On mine there is a switch in the kitchen with a 3 speed fan setting. Also in the bathroom there is a switch that turns on that fan. Hope this helps.

Are you sure your thermostats are set to furnace and not heat pump?

Have you checked the coolant level and the coolant sensor? If it was a fuel problem I don’t think it would have derated after changing fuel filters unless you have algae in fuel. You could try changing filters again, if you do cut open the old ones to see if there is algae present. Also, I believe you have a Cat motor, so all the Cummins stuff is not applicable. Hope this helps.

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

Second, I've read many posts about not having the "City" and "Fill" Valves set to the correct position.

This is where I would start. If manual, make sure it is in the proper position. If electric, it will probably be a red hat valve possibly stuck open. Hope this helps.

That’s fricken insane!

There should be a little plastic fork looking device that holds the crank in the out position. By pulling out the crank, it wedges in a groove, disengaging the manual operation of the crank. Your plastic fork like lock may be missing, allowing the crank to partially engage, causing your grinding problem. Hope this helps.

Jim, the Allison shop in Grand Junction recently closed up. You won’t have any luck there.

Higher RPM’s means more coolant circulation. Drop to a gear that allows climbing a grade, but holding RPM’s a little below red line on tach. Whatever that means for your coach, find that gear and leave it there. If it is still overheating doing this, then there is another problem that needs diagnosing. Hope this helps, good luck!

The tire pressure should be set after weighing coach. Four corners is preferable. Then set pressure accordingly. As far as fuel mileage, is your cooling fan running wide open? It takes an awful lot of HP to turn that fan at full speed. At start up, with engine cold, it should be barely turning. As the engine warms, speed of fan should increase. Hope this helps.

Yes, the clock spring could cause the problems you are describing, but check at the bottom of the steering column the connections that run up to the clock spring. If all is good there, then the clock spring probably needs replaced. Hope this helps.

Looks like your air governor. A better picture would be helpful.

Don’t have any part number’s but I would check Motorhome salvage yards for any C-15 air filter configurations that would hopefully fit your C-13 configuration. 2007 was the first year of the Beaver Marquis line that used the C-15, so that is where I would start. Also, I found this on line, https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/poor-air-intake-design-cat-c15-discussion-513682.html   
might give you an idea what your up against. Good luck!

The C-15 air filter assembly is the way to go. This was discussed at length a while back on the BAC web site and the general consensus was the C-15 filter assembly was the way to go. Hope this helps.

Did you try tightening it? It may just need snugged up.

Mine uses the 210 degree thermo/wax valve.