Frank Bergamo

The joysticks wear out. Put the rear one up front and see if it will work. If the screen is still blank then the screen is probably the problem. Hope this helps.

Gene,

Yes, the charging system goes through the Big Boy. On mine, the left big terminal on the bottom of the Big Boy comes from the alternator chassis side. The right big terminal comes from shore/generator house side. When working properly, both big terminals should have the same voltage on each side. Check voltage on positive terminal on back of alternator or at chassis batteries. Should be 13.8-14 volts if charging. Hope this helps.

This might help you, 

Good luck!

I believe that coach has the Kongsberg Chassis Control Module. People on this site have been working on work arounds for the module, but no permanent solutions as of now. If you do a search for “Kongsberg CCM, you will get a lot of info on the subject. That is a great coach, good luck!

The overflow tube is connected to the filler neck under the cap. It should have a clamp securing it. I suppose any fluid that was spilled will drip out and dry up eventually. I would check for leaks when boiler burner is operating and under pressure. This is when any leaks will reveal themselves. As far as the control thermostat, it sounds like it is bad if it runs when jumpered.

Check around the filler neck and the cap itself for leaks. The hose to your overflow tank is also connected under the cap. Make sure it is dry in this area before any other drastic measures are performed. If it is leaking in this area, it will run down into the insulation around the boiler tank and drip around combustion area and cause what you are describing. Hope this helps, good luck.

I replaced one on a 10K a while back and it was not very difficult at all. If the panel it is mounted in is accessible, then should be no problem at all. A few screws holding it to the panel and a few terminal screws and that is about it. Fairly straightforward and not very difficult. Hope this helps.

The ride height is probably ok. If the flap is dragging, it would be best to raise the flap than messing with a well handling coach that sits level. Good luck.

47 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Have yours tested before you replace them.

Yes, load test them. No use replacing them if they test good?

You might try the air governor. Looks like this, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWDH284358?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Brakes&campaign_id=8659198719&adgroup_id=106304766654&adtype=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoK2mBhDzARIsADGbjeqFf26PLsSpw-hGYibAAPmk5CTWWbLCNdy5KXRLzw3SxeLHjSrKKXcaAjdXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&  It is usually located in rear engine compartment on cross member. Hope this helps, good luck.

The proper way to determine tire pressure is to weigh the coach. Four individual corners if possible. If not, then individual axle weights. Then look at tire pressure charts for your specific tire brand and adjust accordingly. An under inflated tire can be really dangerous. No guessing, your life and others is of the utmost importance. Hope this helps.

There is an ignition solenoid on the bottom of the buss bar in the front run bay below driver. It controls all of your chassis ignition functions. I believe it is a Cole-Hersee 85 amp continuous duty solenoid. Here is a great deal on one, https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/cole-hersee-continuous-duty-solenoid-spst-12v-insulated-base-normally-open-contacts-continuous-rating-85a-24115-bx/11044595-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=11044595-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&&&&&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhWiIY2VJW9csskHbdhK4D-x7&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_O2lBhCFARIsAB0E8B_7MXsrTzfMUFhX47NbhxEH41MJjvpM9SAZGZO0om0kDBkmKhG7xZQaAlEOEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds.  Hope this helps.

Have a friend who has one, nothing but problems. Build quality is lacking compared to a Monaco. Charging system problems, full wall slide problems, toilet problems. The list just goes on and on. Don’t know about you, but I will keep my Monaco!

It’s probably brake pad material. As pads wear, it leaves a dust like appearance in the groove. It’s normal.

Are all slides electric or hydraulic? If hydraulic, there is a relay switch on the hydraulic pump motor. Usually located up front in front of steps. If all switches are inoperable, then problem is common to all three switches. If electric, then a volt meter is your friend. Need to start tracing power until you find the problem. Hope this helps.

Swingers🦥

It’s possible there is no wax valve, fan electronically controlled. Might be the reason can’t locate thermo valve, there isn’t one. As stated above, Source Engineering is the go to for this system. Give them a call. Hope this helps.

I would start with the air governor. It looks like this, https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWDH284358?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&campaign=GSC-Brakes&campaign_id=8659198719&adgroup_id=106304766654&adtype=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw-b-kBhB-EiwA4fvKrNmr8CCVhX96BAaKB4vEpsldnF3tSOAkP-bPnP2g0Z5mKxyOwx4M7xoCGbcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&. 
Hope this helps.

Try a spray lubricant into key slot. Tri-Flow is what I use when I get a sticky lock. Spray and work the lock with the key, should loosen it up. Hope this helps.

When I replaced a Duvac Leece-Neville alternator with a Delco Remy I got the back feed that would not shut down the motor when turning off ignition. By trial and error I figured out what needed to be done to get engine to shut off. Don’t know if original Leece-Neville had an internal diode that prevented back feed, but by placing diode in ignition circuit on the Delco-Remy, solved the problem. So, at that point I could have removed the Delco-Remy and replaced with a Duvac alternator or just run what I had.  I chose to leave it and never had a problem with the install. The guy I sold it to is still running it today with absolutely no problems. If it were me, I would put a diode in it and forget about it. Hope this helps.

Roger,

you can easily check to see if it is back feeding by disconnecting the ignition circuit from the back of alternator while coach is running. If it shuts off once disconnected, then it is back feeding. By placing a diode in the ignition circuit at the back of the alternator, it will remedy your problem. Hope this helps.

Did you replace alternator or rebuild the original? When replacing alternator you need to make sure it is the same as the original or you can get back feed from the ignition circuit. A diode in the ignition circuit will remedy your no shut down situation if this is what is going on. Hope this helps.

The Racor 300200 is still available, https://www.racorstore.com/racor-300200-prefilter-w-o-ring-200-mic.html Also, there are 4 O-rings, two on the pre-filter and two inside the housing holding the pre-filter. They are different sizes, so take note. As Ivan said, you can probably clean up your old one and install new O-rings. The thumb screw is what holds it all together. Make sure it is snug when reassembling and you should be good to go.

Very nice!!

Sounds like the motor is stopped on a bad spot on the armature. Have you tried rocking it back and forth while holding one of the buttons down? Mine has gotten stuck a few times in the up position and by rocking it gently it has freed it up to come down.  Have not needed to dig deeper into problem yet, as it has always corrected itself.