Mike Wahl

Rachel B. Here is a photo showing where I made my splices. I solder all of my joints because they are much less likely to fail than a butt connector. I also use heat shrink tubing over my connections rather than electrical tape. I was able to disconnect my J1 plug and move around some wires to have enough room to do my solder joints. My power wire goes back into the bundle and makes a 180 degree long sweep turn out to the J1 plug. The solder joint is between the sweep and the J1 plug. This splice is hidden in this photo. I would recommend using MTW (Machine Tool Wire). This wire is constructed with a higher stand count than standard THHN building wire is. The higher stand count give it more flexibility and easier to work with in these tighter spaces. When I do my standoff plate they are just made out of a black 1/4 HDPE that I had laying around. I also put a 1/2 standoffs so I reduce the number of holes I have that moisture can get into the electrical bay. I use stainless hardware and put a outdoor silicon caulk on bolt and nut on the outside to seal up the connection. Here is a side view of this. Not best photo but all I had.

Rachel B. In my original post on this topic is my original wiring diagram from Monaco and the one I updated to add the relay. These should help the technician who is doing the update. I wired mine as the diagram shows and have had no issues since doing so. I also found that wire stays much cooler with this change like other have stated. This will definitely help and hopefully eliminate the temperature issue with the J12 plug. I would have the Technician update your wiring diagram with the changes he makes for future troubleshooting. In industry, practice has been to hand mark-up the drawings, which is just fine. I have the ability to update the PDF so that is what I did with mine. Both ways works. Here is a photo of how I mounted mine.

Rachel I did the bypass with a relay and it is working great. It reduces the amp draw through the control J12 connection which eliminates the heating issue. I have used mine many times already since the change and I’m very happy. Mike

During our recent 10 day trip we lost our low beam headlights. After searching on the site found this to be a common problem and several good ideas on how to fix the issue. I have parts coming to fix the Controller. I had ordered but didn't get a chance before the trip to install new LED headlights. Last week I did get them installed. This is a great improvement. I will put together an upgrade post when I get a chance. One of the last things I want to do is add the relay as others have discussed doing on here. I have attached the original wiring diagram and the wiring diagram I have updated. What I'm wondering is , I was planning on pulling my power off of the mini-breaker which is where the original headlight power comes from and my signal wire (original headlight circuit) will come from and not adding a fuse. Is the the correct was to do this or should I come off of the buss bar side for my headlight power and add a fuse. I'm a novice when it comes to electrical circuitry and want to do it right. Original Diagram Update Diagram With Changes in Yellow

I do have an ISM. I have the Denso on the way. Thanks for the heads up on the bolt. I will make sure I plan enough time.

I did some more checking and when I loaded tested the chassis batteries, one of the two batteries was getting weak. I have changed both batteries and it has corrected the issue with the generator shutting down when starting. I'm working on my replacement starter, because I have a high amp draw with the starter. The one I had on order has been back-ordered with no estimated ship date. Looking at other options.

I was able to spend a little time last night working on my Generator. I had it shut down once over the weekend for over-temp with the single flash of the light. While it was running I could hear the fan belt squealing occasionally. I was able to tighten the fan belt and washed out the radiator. I will see if this fixes that issue. I then started the generator and after it was warmed up started the engine and the generator shut down. I shut down engine and restarted the generator and then started the engine with the battery boost switch on and it didn't shut down. I forgot my good meter at work yesterday so tonight I can check battery and also do a DC amp draw on the starter. Ivan, from your post I'm wondering if its the engine starter drawing heavy amps. The starter is an original and it looks like it had give problems in the past and someone used the old hit it was a hammer trick to get it engage. I can't find anywhere in the documentation that it was fixed. I found this when I was doing engine maintance last month. I have a new Denso Heavy Duty Starter 428000-4420 on order that should be here this week. The Denso is a gear reduction starter verse a direct drive in the original Delco starter. I will also check out the battery's. They are getting the age of replacement so that could also be an issue. Ivan, Do you know at what DC Voltage the generator shuts down?

I've been able to use our new to us 2001 Signature over the past 3 weekend and we are loving it. One of the things I noticed is that when I start my main engine, the Onan 12.5 generator shuts down. Is this the way it is suppose to work or is there something wrong?

Erine i just want to check, are you having an issue where when you run your water pump it pumps water out onto the ground from the city water connection? If so, just had the similar issue on my 2001 signature. I went to the local pumping supply house and picked up a check valve and replace it. I had to replace a short pick of pex when I did it. Here is what my old valve looked like. I think I paid around $15.00 for the new one. Simple to install.

I figured out the issue. Thanks for the sending me in the right direction. When I checked the city water fill valve it was closed, however with the hose disconnected and the pump running the pump pushed the water out of the city water fill connection and onto the ground. I removed the backflow valve and I found that it didn't have any internal parts in it. When I worked on it last week I had the hose still hooked up so it was pushing the pressure down the hose and I'm guessing opening the backflow valve on the hose connection at the house. I wasn't looking for a leak there. I went to the local pumping supply house and picked up a new 1/2 backflow valve and installed. This for the help with this one. Still working on the switch lights. Waterskier_1, yes I'm referring to the lights on the switches throughout the coach. None of them come on when the pump is running.

I have a 2001 Monaco Signature. I has a updated Remco 55Aquajet-ARV pump with a Intellitec 10 amp latching controller.. The system pumps water with good pressure however the have the following problems. 1) The pump runs continuously 2) When you start the pump, none of the lights on the pump motor button aluminate. I have check for leaks and cant find any that would cause the pump to run all of the time. What else could cause this to happen?

Guys I was doings some inspection on my 2001 Monaco Signature and found the Passenger side upper shock mount stud broken off. I have a few questions. 1) Are these a welded on stud, threaded through the plate or a bolt from the back side. 2) Has anyone else had this happen and if so how did you repair it. Thanks Mike

Scott and the rest of the crew. Thank you for everything you do. I'm new the the class A world and as a Monaco owner. This is a great resource for new owners, prospective owners and long-term owners. It has helped me with my long list of items we want to do on the coach as we go forward. Keep up the good work and thank you. Mike

Thanks everyone for you help on this topic. I have the new Sharp ordered and it should be here in the next week or so.

I found the sharp on sale today for $499.00 online at appliance connection and $504.99 at office depot with $50.00 off if your 1st purchase if you sign up for their credit card. https://www.appliancesconnection.com/sharp-r1874ty.html https://www.officedepot.com/a/products/823710/Sharp-R1874T-11-Cu-Ft-Over/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=sag

My 2001 Signature has a switch located in the Kitchen for the washer dryer or the center AC. Looks just like what John posted.

Dr4Film, I went and checked out the mounting instruction for both. I see what you mean with the mounting to the back wall. The Samsung has just a mounting strip at the bottom. The Sharp has a full back wall mounting plate. Sharp Mounting Samsung Mounting The reviews on the Samsung is not as good as the Sharp. In the reviews, there were several people that commented they put the Sharp in RV's, none of the reviews for Samsung had reviews for RV's. The Samsung has more interior room, 1.7 verse 1.1 cu. ft. in the Shrap The Sharp is is smaller, Width: 29.94" Height: 16.34" Depth: 15.28". Samsung Wide 29.7/8" Height 15 15/16" and Depth 16 19/32. From this info (especially the negative reviews) I going to pass on the Samsung. Life is to short to save a few dollars and have a issues with something when you need it. It anyone runs into a good Black Friday-Cyber Monday sale let me know. I will do the same.

Guys, Thank you for all of the input. I have reviewed and will be ordering the HW50C to install upstream from my ATS. Do items like this ever go on sale or is the price the price? I found it on Amazon and Home Depot for $306.38. Thanks again. Mike

Wondering if anyone has used this model in there coach. I was planning on replacing with the Sharp, however this one is on a Black Friday sale for $329.00 till 12/2/2020. That is $170 less than I can find the Sharp on sale for. https://www.samsung.com/us/home-appliances/microwaves/over-the-range/1-7cu-ft-over-the-range-microwave-with-convection-and-slim-fry-in-stainless-steel-mc17t8000cs-aa/ Mike

Bill, I don't think it was an intentional lie, the guys was very honest about some other things that I didn't see right away. I think he was not educated and assumed like I did with the name Surge Guard it did surge protection. Anyways, water over the dam. Richard, Just want to make sure I'm following you correctly. So with the amount of boondocking we will be doing the EMS is what we want to put in 1st. Down the road if we have issues with power shut down due to voltage we could add the voltage booster. Mike

I have a few questions on surge protection. From my research that I have done, the Surge Guard Model 40100 is only a transfer switch and has no surge protection. Is this a correct? We were told it was a transfer switch and surge protection when we were buying the coach. My bad for not researching more at the time. I guess with the name Surge Guard I assumed it was both as we were led to believe. 2. What is the difference between a 50 amp home surge protector like can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot and a RV surge protector. Does the RV one do more than the ones built for a home. What is the difference between a surge protector and a EMS? Mike

I want to clean up the battery trays on our Signature. Wondering what you planned on using for paint in this area? I have used POR-15 on other restoration projects and have had good success but wondering what else is available.

HI everyone, we recently purchased a 2001 Monaco Signature. The previous owner purchased it when it was a year old. It is a very clean coach with many of the maintance records. I have been putting together a list of items that we want to repair or update. I’m working on prioritizing the list because time and resources will not allow them all to be done right away. 1st a little background. We have had a 5th wheel for the last 16 year and before that a slide in truck camper. As a family we do a lot of antique equipment shows where we operate our historic steam traction engines, sawmills and other historic equipment. The steam engine is transported by semi and lowboy. In the past, with the 5th wheel if I want to take anything else along; tractor, water wagon for the steam engine or the model T Ford, I needed to take a 2nd trip. The ability to pull at trailer to move these items was a huge deciding factor for looking at class A’s. After looking at some Class A’s coaches (Monaco, Country Coach, Beaver) we found the level of quality was excellent and were sold that the class A was the way to go. We will use the coach 5-8 weekends a year for the historic equipment shows and 4-8 time camping at state parks, friends and family’s places. Most of these will be boondocking or with limited 20 amps of power and sometimes water. We will put on 5,000 to 8,000 miles a year using the coach. We are at least 10 year away using it to head south in the winter. Here is the list. Looking for input on priority and anything else we overlooked as new owners. 1. Tires. The current steer tires are 2017 and the drive and tag are 2010. These is no question here the drive and steer need to be replaced before we use it. I plan to move the steers to the tag and put the new tires on the steer. 2. Microwave. We purchased the unit with a non-operating microwave. The previous owner had replaced it at some point with a standard microwave. From what I can tell the coach originally had a Sharp convection microwave in it. We plan to replace it with a convection microwave. We are thinking an updated Sharp model. 3. Steering stabilizer. I have looked a few different options. Not sure from what I have read is the a must have on a nice to have on a Monaco roadmaster chassis. I have seen owners of other brands say it’s a must. Steering stabilizer. I have seen there are several out there including ones that have centering offsetting. 4. Shocks. The current shocks are original but none of them show signs of leakage. 5. Fridge. It has a Norcold 1200 with the recalls done. I know there is a lot of strong feelings on this topic. I have looked at the JC refrigeration upgrades, and posts on residential. Most places we travel will be boondocking with no generators after 10:00 pm. 6. LED lighting outside. I would like to upgrade the headlights and taillights. The markers are already done. 7. LED lighting inside. Replace bulbs or fixtures. 8. Solar. Still has the original system from Monaco. I did some playing with this and it looks to not be working. Would be more of a priority if I go to a residential fridge. 9. Remove 3M protective film. The RV has 3M front protection on the front of the coach. I have seen several posts on removal. Does anyone put this back on? 10. Air bags. The previous owner had replaced 3 of the air bags. During the inspection I found that the rest look to be in good shape, but are 19 years old. 11. Engine Monitoring system. I have looked at Blue Fire and a couple of others. Many say they wont leave home without it. 12. Towed vehicle. We have a 2020 Jeep Cherokee and a 2005 GMC 3500 pick-up. Trying to decide if I want to tow a new car or if I want tow a 1 ton truck with duals. 13. Tyron bands. Wondering what thoughts are on these or the other manufactures of them. 14. Surge protector. Should I have one. What kind, built in or as part of electrical plug. I know it’s a long list and I have more than likely missed some stuff. I look forward to your input and responses. Thank you in advance for your input and help. Mike

I used the battery disconnect and shut down the power. On startup the fridge turns right back on.

Rick, I checked it out. All stuff from 1998 to 2003. Mike