63Hotrod

Went to drive the coach to the shop for pm started and it filled both tanks and popped off as normal. Both tanks we at their normal pressure But the back did not come up to normal height came up just an inch or so. The coach was not leaning down on either side .Dumped air and refilled no charge. Eased down the driveway a few feet joggling it with the brakes no change. Ok left it sit went inside to cancel plans etc. CAME BACK OUT AND IT WAS AT NORMAL HEIGHT Going to change out the rear ride height valves BUT not sure that is the issue. ???????????

Getting ready to replace a bad rear ride height valve Our Tec info shows two measurements. I know how to measure ride height but what is bag height?

There are 4 grommets one on each corner which pegs on the grill push into Anyone know where to get these

A bit out from Dayton but the KOA in Lebanon is a good spot for Big Rigs

Looking for any information on the system used in 08. Model number etc winter project to change out some of the electronics

Tom thanks good info I work the same due when we get home

This early am ready to roll but no taillights Stop,turn,marker lights all fine I checked the small fuse boxes in the rear and front compartment but can not locate a fuse marked taillights

Plan a small oscillating fan on top of the box. One closet door open and most hanging clothes on the bed Add in rear ac when it hits 85 While I think this is an unsual instance due to much higher temps than we normally see. My plan is to add a small vent fan once we get home thanks to all for your ideas

Never had issues before and just this one time. Really hot outside tripped the front ac breaker. When I went to reset it I noticed the panel and the wood enclosure hot to touch Combination of engine heat, oat and no air flow in the closet

To clarify the problem is cooling it when going down the road

Our breaker panel is in the rear closet. Just noticed when running in hot weather 105 + that the enclosure and panel face are quite warm. We travel with the front ac on and bedroom closed off So looking for suggestions run both ac leaving closet door open ? or ?

Headed to Yuma/Tucson where temps are 110 plus. Concerned what that will do to engine temp

On the road and need some help as we damaged a blade. Ours appear to bolt to a u Chanel which is attached to the wiper arm. Going to switch to 28 inch but not sure what type of mount this is ??? Thanks for the help 08 Endeavor 40 PDQ

I was able to replacements from Morryde. Not the same but an improvement Had to drill two extra holes to make them fit. Now working great

Just an update House ground is a stud welded to the top of the frame rail behind the aft bay on the passenger side. Access is thru the bedroom hatch Still chasing the start battries

For general PM I want to clean up the grounds. I am trying to trace where the House and start battery's ground. Located the house in almost impossible to get location. Top of frame rail behind the rear inverter compartment. Not quite sure how to squeeze my old bones in there Have not been able to trace the start battery cable. It goes into a big cable bundle headed aft If I can't get to them I may relocate to a more serviceable place. Anyone done that

Tom recheck this new meter the readings were Ohms not volts This is clearly not my best area Still planning to clean the chasis ground

Tom it is volts I am testing. Going to clean the cable where it attaches at the frame. Really in Tuff place to get at. Then clean all connections at the junction block. Then run the test as described Question could I add an extra ground cable if there is room on the junction block stud. Any harm in that

Tom I miss spoke I followed it for 3 hr and there is only a .10 difference example 12.3 Vs 12.4 Sorry I miss spoke I changed to a more reliable meter my error I was measure from the ground on the house battery to a solid chassis There I think I have a problem When inverting it shows 2.5 every time I check it. Un bulk charge I see 7 .2 at the same place Is this a bad ground issue

Clarification no voltage at the inverter copper wire

At full charge indication on the remote zero amps 12.8 and the same at the battery. New style remote which I think shuts down charging once it reaches full charge Will unplug leave the fridge on and see later. But I have seen at the meter a drop to 12.2 in a couple of hours Ground runs from battery to junction block then one wire to frame Seeng .20 at battery and junction block On start batteries zero ground voltage On inverter zero ground voltage Ok now I am charging confused

Everything is clean and tight. Charges as expected and Inverter works well. No major drain on the system When un pluged all that's running is the fridge drawing 9 amps In the next day or so I plan to disconnect from shore power. Take readings at both places a couple of hr apart and will post them

Installed new inverter and remote and 4 new house batteries. I am seeing a good bit of difference between what I read at the batteries and what the remote indicates varies a bit in a range of .15 to .40 .The battery reading being more than the remote. How much difference is normal

Our tray has two heavy duty latches to hold it in for place. These pull up and push down to latch One of them just broke need to know where to get a replacement

I can't see leaving it on all the time. Going with a snap disk on at 105 off at 68. We don't boondock a lot so should be fine