Dbircky

I made the exact same brand/size change two years ago. Good improvement in ride, never noticed any smell. You don't want to know this, but tow years ago they cost me just about $500 each mounted and balanced..... Replaced the rear six last year with 295s at $550 each.

Had a similar problem with mine, except it was the passenger side tag axle. Ended up being a faulty wiring harness. The Valid folks were a massive help in diagnosing and getting me the new harness. 250 832 6477 or https://validmfg.com/product/vehicle-leveling-system/ Good Luck. At least your front wires are easier to reach than the rear ones.....

Yes. I talked with valid. So did the tech at the first shop and the tech at REV has been talking to them also. We are now waiting on a new panel to try. Did pull the current one out. Looks good no corrosion

Being new to this forum, I never saw any posts about the problem. It is strange that both poles are all run off the same side of the blocks. Wires tight against wires with the opposite polarity can’t be good. Especially bouncing down the road. Not sure when this happened, but if it ties into the generator not running it’s been about a month ago. Good news is while waiting fir repairs, one ac kept the inside livable in 95 degree heat. I did keep the front to slides in to reduce volume. Thankfully the damage was only to the ATS and my wallet. I’ll be spending some time over the coming month reading all the posts. Thank you.

"REV shop in Coburg" I'm currently at the Rev shop in Decatur trying to get the air leveling fixed. Losing faith fast that they can fix it. Oregon is too far and time is limited for a trip. I've already been here for 3 days as they work with power gear to find out what the problem is. Anyone know of someone east of the Mississippi that knows the roadmaster chassis?

Resetting didn't correct the problem. Here's the sequence of what is going on. Parked, engine off, both power switches off. Turn power switches on. Turn panel on Start engine Select "Auto". It auto levels. Select "Travel" "FAULT" light is on, per the trouble shooting guide: "Rear right ride height sensor or right tag valve". Once moving at about 5mph a constant beeping starts and continues until stopped. If moving again, beeping comes back. I am now at the second shop, recommended by PowerGear, with no resolution after them spending two days looking at it. There are zero air leaks, the valves all check fine as does the rest. They are now suspecting the control panel, wiring harness, or computer. I pulled the control panel, it's very clean and no signs of corrosion or other water intrusion. Am I at the point where we just start replacing parts? Has anyone had a similar issue, and did you ever fine a resolution? It does seem to drive okay, but I don't trust why I keep getting the alarm and am concerned that there's a reason for it that could cause an issue later. Thank you. I forgot to add, they can't test the control panel. Am I going to be better off just making a trip to Iowa and having the HWH system put in? I have the air only system (no jacks, nothing hydraulic).

Update: Don't know if anyone has had the same problem, but here's how mine was repaired. After the intermittent running the generator finally refused to start. Thinking the fuel pump died, I decided to replace it. Let's put it this way, removing the entire generator might be quicker, but once gaining access to the fuel pump wires, I discovered there was no power going TO the fuel pump. So having not yet removed the generator or fuel pump, I went looking elsewhere. As it happened I had an appointment at REV for service on the Air Leveling (another post I'll update). When I got there, I only had 30 amp from their 50 amp post. The next morning I mentioned this to the service tech, who said he'd take a look. As it turned out the orginal IOTA ITS-50R ATS decided to self immolate. According to the tech there was a recall (?) on these. I'll be looking for the NHTSA recall later today. But after having a new one put in, the generator runs. There must be a safety that shuts the fuel off if there is an open circuit, or other problems downstream of the generator.

Just thought I'd send an update. Used JB Weld after wire wheeling the paint and rust off (mostly) Drained oil out first, it was almost time for a change anyway. So far, no leaks, but will replace the pan the next time it leaks. I was quoted $2,500 and up to replace. There is little clearance between the hitch and the pan, no doubt the frame section has to be removed which is where the rear engine mount is. Now I'm at REV to get the Power Gear Leveling fixed. Right rear fault code, tech said he thinks the panel is bad? Also discovered after plugging into the 50 amp post that I was only pulling 30 amp (one leg dead) switched posts, same. Looks like the transfer switch croaked, but they said it's not made anymore. Working on a replacement/upgrade idea. Has anyone done this? The new ones look really nice, but $$$$ and too much bling for me. Thanks, for the help.

Went to exercise the generator in my 2009 Camelot, wouldn't start. Error Code 36. Changed fuel filter, primed, and it fired right up. After about 10 minutes I put a load (1 A/C, then ten minutes later a second A/C) on it. Everything was running fine. After about 20 minutes, I shut down one A/C, 5 minutes later shut the second one down. Within a minute after the second A/C was shut off, the generator stopped. New chassis and house batteries are fully charged. AGS is turned off. Back to getting Error 36. Going to pull fuel filter again, and blow the incoming fuel line back into the tank. And try it again tonight. Am I missing anything or need to look elsewhere? Unsure if this is related, but after taking out the old filter with the lines still attached, I shook it and the generator fired up and kept running (with no load) until I shut it off to put the new one on. Thanks.

Thank you.

On my back looking at the Camelot's oil pan, I could see some areas of rust bubbling under the paint. So I decided to wire wheel it and re-paint it. However, after popping a few blisters, I can see a little oil has seeped under the paint from the rusty areas. I drained the pan, and am deciding between fixing in place with JB Weld or just replacing the whole thing. If I go the replacement route, it looks like the hitch comes off which includes the rear engine mount to be able to remove the pan. Has anyone done this and have any idea how to support the engine when this mount is removed? I have an engine lift, but there's little room on top of the engine to lift it. I realize that I don't have to lift up much to remove the mount, but am looking for an additional way to secure the engine (besides the lift) as I'm working on it. Has anyone done this? I've had great luck with JB on other tanks/pans including side covers on dirt bikes as long as your meticulous with surface prep. That's obviously the way to go if I can't lift/support the engine safely. Thank you.

Thank you. How long does it take to Auto Reset? The only mention of a seat is in the Owner's Manual under VCS-Gray (Sub Floor Chas Harn) Loc No 6&7 Function VCA6-7 CHAS BATT SEAT TO/FROM F88. F88 is occupied by an 20amp resettable breaker. I'm going to pick a new one up and try it. I wonder if I could just use a regular 20 amp fuse instead.

Last night I went to put my feet up in the front passenger seat, and discovered there is no power to the seat. The wire out of the floor has no power to it. I can't find the fuse in the electrical bay after checking the owner's manual and the list in the bay. Where did Monaco hide these fuses?

Thank you for the diagram and manual! I didn't think about the solar electric, will isolate that also. It appears the fault code is the in Rear right height sensor or right tag valve, based on the manual. I wonder if them jacking the back up might have just pulled a plug enough to cause a disconnection. The system was working perfect until I took it in for tires. It doesn't make sense to me either. I'll slide under and see what I can do before heading to the shop in the morning. Thank you again for the materials. I'll take a copy with me for them.

Last evening, after having all six rear tires replaced, the Valid Air panel is showing a fault, rapid flashing of both power and travel buttons and a single red dot in for the right rear wheels. The dot is the one closest to the driver. If I hold the travel button down, the vehicle display shows all green lights. The MH looked level sitting in their parking lot. Additionally, the parking brake light didn’t immediately go off when that brake was released (stayed on for two or three minutes). After shutting off the engine, I pulled the fuses fir the system and turned off both chassis and house battery circuits. Everything looked fine, all 10 bags inflated, no sound of leaking air with 110 lbs in both tanks. Restarted and headed down the road. Within 2 miles the alarm was going off and the same fault showing. Will be heading back to the shop, but wondering if any experts with this system have an idea what happened. I’m guessing a sensor or something got knocked off, but can’t reconcile in my mind why the fault doesn’t immediately show. Air pressure stayed over 105 psi on the way home. The shop is only 10 miles from the barn, I stopped once on the way home and cut all power again, and the same thing happened. As the entire trip is all 45 mph or less, I can’t say if the active leveling is working as it should going down the road, but I’m guessing not as it will not engage the auto mode when parked. Any ideas?2009 Monaco Camelot 42pdq with Power Gear/Valid Air (factory installed ) air only leveling. The tire dealer has made arraignments with a local heavy truck repair faculty to look at it tomorrow. Does anyone know if OTR trucks have a similar system? I'm guessing not, but I don't have a pit in the barn to get fully underneath to work on the system. Thank you.