FishAR

I have read every step thread here and also the instruction manuals posted, but perhaps I'm a little slow.

I'm installing step motor 300-1406. What limits the travel of the motor and motor gear? I don't want to put this in wrong and immediately strip it out.

I read I'm supposed to install the motor with the steps out. 

Old topic of mine being responded to here,

What I did was buy a noco genius battery maintainer and plugged it in the block heater recp in the engine bay.. Bought an extra length of wire to connect the plug in portion and the alligator clips portion and permanently mounted it so the charger cable would reach the batteries.

When parked it's hooked up. When motor running or when traveling it's unplugged and stored in the basement. 

Check where the temp sensor is for your front ac and make sure a duct isn't blowing directly on it. If it is re-aim the duct away from the sensor.

I got hit with 60 mph crosswind on I 10 in the florida panhandle going home last year. Full of fuel and water, towing my silverado.

No warning from accuweather or weather.com. No where to pull off. I got pushed off the road by it 2-3 times, moved me 3 ft at least. I didn't even consider pulling off on the shoulder, raining so hard at times you could barely see and I would have got rear ended.

Very scary. Got to a rest area and parked. 5 minutes later it was over. 8 minutes later my phone started going off with weather warnings "shelter in place". Yeah, thanks a lot.

I have a noco on my camelot when it's parked. Plug it in to the block heater receptacle. It worked well so I bought another one that I keep on my gmc terrain when I leave it alone in my shop during the 6 months we're in Florida.

Mine are genius 1's.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Just curious.  There were, at least in 2008 & newer, TWO different “patio” awnings.  Both Carefree.  The slide mounted Eclipse (vertical rails on slide wall) was the standard. There are 2 switches for that.  The manual says that there was an “OPTIONAL” Auto Retraction system. Then the OTHER optional one was an APEX roof mounted, Girard wannabe…, it is actually 120 VAC powered and has two switches, but these are “push button” or digital.  Memory on this. One is in and out and other is the wind speed sensor.  The Eclipse’s Auto Retract in 2007 was the spinning cup anemometer.  But, in 2008, it was a “shear”. It is a “acceleration” sensor in the front cover.  So, if a gust hits it and lifts it or vice Versa, it measures that and reacts.  

Monaco, per the sales brochure used the plain model, without auto retract. The Apex came with Auto Retract.   There is a current thread on motors and failures that you ought to read, if you haven’t….good information for a 2007 Camelot/Scepter owner…

My awning is the Eclipse, but not on the slide wall. It's 20 ft. and mounted to the coach wall on each side of the kitchen slide. Doesn't have the optional auto retract. I have a switch to operate it from inside. A switch to allow operation from outside, and a switch outside to run it in or out.

Thread over a year old but I've started using my awning again. It keeps the Florida sun off the side of my Camelot in the morning and the Florida sun is HOT. I only use it for this reason, we don't sit under it, we sit in the gazebo.

I still have my sunshade attached to it, 2 piece sunshade where one part rolls up with the awning, keeps the side of the motorhome a lot cooler. Don't use the bottom part anymore. I bought a weather station that I attached on a pole to the ladder and monitor the wind speed myself. Depending on which way the wind is blowing, and the direction the wind is blowing seems to have a lot to do with it, I've seen it billow up at 10mph. That's not that much wind.

All the rv experts on you tube and such say "Bring your awning in at 20mph", well I think anyone who waits that long is nuts. I watch the awning closely along with the trees and my weather monitor screen, nervous as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs.

Reading the owner's manual, it says the wind sensor (which I don't have) has settings of 6, 9, and 12 mph. So it's obvious Carefree doesn't think it should be out in over 12mph wind.

I have what I believe to be a carefree mirage door awning.

Not sure why the picture loaded upside down (fixed - SMH) Lately once in a while when I push the button to extend or retract I might get nothing at all, or a click. Then after a few more attempts it will work. Mostly it will work normal, a few times it's sounded like the motor is dragging for a split second then it goes back to normal.

Wondering what to look at first to track this problem down. The motor must be hidden very well.

My step cover sometimes acts in the same peculiar manner, although once it starts it goes, no dragging sound.

I have an on the go and when I add the salt I have a pitcher of hot water with me, it fills up I pour some water in. Only takes a few minutes to add the 2 containers of salt.

One of the things I really like about slide toppers is keeping the sun off the top of the slide and helping with cooling. That product doesn't seem to accomplish that.

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Here is a recent post on IRV2  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/broken-frame-on-a-2008-holiday-endeavor-603336.html

Thought it worth while to post here as I'd never seen a similar weld failure like this.  Maybe others can comment. 

There have been requests for more pictures but the OP has not come back yet.  I'm trying to visualize where this is.

Either way it just highlights for everyone to do a thorough inspection of the chassis/frame on a regular basis.  If the failure was caught early it would have been repairable with much less effort. 

 

I will send the poster a PM and suggest he join Monacoers.org.   I can't do it within the thread, I've been scolded for doing this recently and am currently on probation.  IRV2 has a rule against posting links to competitor websites. 

irv2 is the worst site on the internet. I try not to post there since I don't like being talked down to by overbearing mods. Our files should not be shared there.

My convection microwave quit the other day. Sharp 1874. I wish my factory mounting guy had been like your guys. 2 long angled bolts like you all have. Took them loose. Microwave still firmly attached.

Microwave is toast anyway so I start taking it apart, literally destroying it, after I put the 2 long angled bolts back in. 2 drywall screws run into the side of it hid behind a false cabinet panel on the right side. No way I was unloading that cabinet and taking the shelf brackets and everything down so I popped them with a sharp screwdriver. 3 fat machine screws run into the microwave cabinet from the top, false cabinet floor above them. Had to take loose false cabinet bottom and support it with duct tape, it wouldn't fit out the cabinet door opening. Took screws out. Then microwave came down.

New replacement 1874 was $600. Wife read directions on it while I was getting things lined up. She became fixated on the directions saying 2 screws go into threaded inserts on top of microwave along with the angled bolts. I said It's only 1/8 inch lauan that those screws will be going through but to get her to shut up about it I drilled holes for them even though they're not capable of holding much. There were no inserts on the old microwave, the installer had just boogered 3 fat screws through the metal cabinet. Power cord didn't line up so I got to do some sawing with a keyhole saw to make the hole bigger.

New one wouldn't fit as tight to the cabinet on top as the old one, I even slotted some washers and put under the head of the angled bolts to be able to suck it up some more, it helped a little.

A good day and a half of working a lot harder than I have for a while. It really sucked.

Then this morning it's 35 degrees in Florida. I go out to have a smoke and see water dripping off the kitchen slide about where the sink is. I'm thinking It didn't freeze last night, what the hell is this? Empty out the cabinet under the sink and the drain pipe has popped off at the compression nut. So have to take out a panel and get a fan in there and dry it out, going to put it back together in a minute. Wife said she had a lot more water in the sink than normal when she pulled the plug but it still shouldn't have come apart.

This snowbird life ain't easy. Had to buy a new gazebo due to the hurricane and put it up. The 55 inch tv that was in the old gazebo that a neighbor down here was storing for me got a broken screen somewhere between start of summer and when I got here so I had to buy another tv. I'll be storing it in my storage trailer this time.

Hopefully the rest of the winter is smooth sailing. Oh wait, I forgot. I have to take the Camelot to Sarasota on Jan. 23 so the diamondshield clown can remove and replace the faulty diamondshield he put on last spring. It's coming loose all over. I had to rent a cabin here at the resort to have a place to stay during that, 3 days at $110 a day and was lucky to get it.

BTW Merry Christmas Everyone!

12 minutes ago, Idoc57 said:

Well Guys, it looks like "we have a winner"!  I got 3 different versions of the redesigned weep hole covers.  I tested about 16 of them and they are GREAT!  Not 1 of the 16 that I put on my coach broke a hook or had any issues at all.  They all fit like a glove.  My son beefed up the rear hook substantially.  It is now about 5/16" to 3/8" long.  The reason we wanted this this rear hook to be much stronger is because the rear of the cover is much more vulnerable to getting snagged by a rag or a brush when washing or drying the coach.  The front of the cover, with its 45 degree slant is not likely to be snagged by anything, so that hook is not as big (although it is a lot more substantial than the first version).  The way to install the covers is to insert the larger hook into the rear slot, slide the cover as far back as it can go. At that point the tip of the front hook will just start to fit into the front slot.  Place your thumb on the 45 degree slant and push in and back at the same time.  It will lock into place nice and tight.  

They are working on getting the new revision printed.  It is a time consuming process, so hang in there.  They will get everyone's order fulfilled in the order that they came in.  It takes about 5-6 hours to print about 20 of the covers.  I will be contacting you individually as your order is ready to ship.  The preferred payment options will be Zelle or Venmo.  If that doesn't work for you, don't worry, we will figure something out.

The covers will look exactly like the black ones a few posts up.  Only the size of the hooks (or tabs) will be bigger.

Thanks,

Carey

As soon as we get settled in florida sometime next week I'll count what I need and get in touch with you.

15 hours ago, Capt Mike said:

I emailed with Tim at RVCAMS.com and he had a new replacement camera for nearly $300. I had to check around and eBay was the winner…$106 shipped. New in the box and direct replacement part. I’ll update the post after install.

If the seller had more than one I'd appreciate the link. Mine is kind of blurry.

11 hours ago, Ken Thompson said:

Tire shops don’t torque truck lug nuts. They just use the big air gun and call it good. I think the 450-500 ft lbs is way overkill. 

They did on mine. They came out and put the tires on in my shop. I sat and watched them. Same guys who fix semi tractor tires on the side of the interstate.

My yearly lease is at The Glades RV Resort and Marina about 15 miles from Okeechobee. Right on the river. We like it there but I think it's full.

You could check though.

The Glades RV Resort (thegladesresort.com)

Went down with a full tank last winter. Cooked inside and out with it all winter, almost 6 months, came back with 3/4 tank.

If I had needed any they deliver to the campground on certain days. 

Edited to add:

Fill it up before you go. The delivered propane at our place is pretty expensive.

Is this a 1402?

Is the freezer down to temperature? I don't think anything works on my icemaker until it gets down to a certain temperature.

I'm not going to carry a jack big enough to lift this monster so a wheel wouldn't do me a lot of good.

I do kind of wish I'd have saved one tire from when I had the tires changed just in case I had a flat and whoever roadside assistance sent out had a hard time finding the right size. But then I think if I didn't trust them enough I had to change them, should I trust them for a spare?

1 hour ago, throgmartin said:

I passed it off as fear mongering till I read this story. Evidently some pockets in the Southeast are being hit. I was headed to Michigan but had to turn around at the GA line and cancel my vacation trip because of business. I am beginning to think I will never get a relaxing vacation......LOL...

Ironically, I stopped for fuel just below the GA State line and all the truckers at the fuel island were complaining because of the pumps running real slow. It took 25 minutes for me to pump 58 gallons of diesel at the truckers island. The trucker that was parked next to me had her pump running for 20 minutes or so and only 50 gallons was dispensed. Her comment ? " I don't get paid by the hour. I get paid by the trip. This is nuts ". No idea if this was an issue just at this particular Love's or if they were trying to limit sales. Typically the fuel island pumps run extremely fast. I can normally fill up and be gone quickly. I got further down the road at another truck stop to park for the night because of a bad storm that blew in and the truckers there were backed up at the pumps and taking forever to get filled. No idea what is going on. It seems they would realize truckers will fill up completely despite how long it takes.

BTW, the price of fuel was a wallet killer, even with my EDS fuel card. Another big hit came when I filled the propane tank. Good Lord. $ 108 for 22 gals. That is the most I have ever paid for propane in my lifetime.

https://www.foxbusiness.com/politics/fuel-company-issues-diesel-shortage-warning-says-conditions-rapidly-devolving

 

You're scaring me, I'd hate to be trapped up north all winter due to a lack of being able to get fuel.

12 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Your bedroom wardrobe bottom seal is likely farther in.

I've thought the same thing looking at mine! Would probably a nightmare to replace without pulling the slide!

I've got 4 slides on this thing and everyone seems to be different.

11 hours ago, Steven P said:

@FishAR you can mend the torn seal to buy some time.  I used 2" 3m nonskid tape for my seals and it works pretty good.  Contact Steele Rubber and AP Products and look at what yours compares to and ask for samples.  

How do you mend it? I have no clue. 

Kind of a catch 22 since I don't really know what it all looks like unless I take it off, I don't want to take it off without one ready to put on, and I have no idea how it comes off.

Ordering the tape now.

I have a slide seal on my 2007 Camelot that keeps tucking under and I have to pull it out by hand. It's the bottom seal on the curb side big kitchen living room slide. I want to buy some grip tape but not sure what width to get. Also it's ripped from start to about 6 inches from the corner on one side so I'm sure I'll eventually have to replace it. How do you replace this and what do I buy?

Also, my bedroom wardrobe slide has no bottom seal and I see no sign that it ever had one. Is this normal?

I don't have a 2 stage brake, I have a Pac Brake exhaust brake.

I could use some in black, not sure how many.

If it's 14 x 14 and I'd bet it is you can just buy a new vent cover.

I put 3 of these on my Camelot last winter.

Amazon.com: Fan-Tastic Vent U1500BL Ultra Breeze Vent Cover - Black : Automotive

Take those 4 nuts off and I bet it pops right off.