FishAR

1 hour ago, bonfield said:

The faucet on ours is at the rear of the tub at the bottom edge and it seems it is like a house faucet and the nuts are behind.I dont want to damage the faucet by trying to nscrew from top.

Is it like this or in a different spot?

14 hours ago, bonfield said:

That is the exact floor plan for ours so you can see the problem of getting to the faucets.Thank you

I'd think there has to be a way to get through the bedroom wall next to the bed to get to that faucet. Pictures of units for sale show the faucet halfway down the long side of the tub on the exterior side. But then you're there and I'm not. I mean, they just can't build something replaceable that you can never touch again, can they?

Although they came close with the backflow preventer for the black tank flush on my Camelot.

I found a 2004brochure and couldn't copy paste the picture of the floorplan, but it looked like this 2002

Is this what your unit looks like?

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

That Warning Light can have a myriad of reasons for it coming on. Have someone read the codes to find out exactly what the problem that is causing it to light up. OR it could simply be a failed sensor.

For my previous 2002 Windsor and my 2006 Dynasty, here is the explanation. "Indicates an out-of-range condition exists within the engine protection circuits. Stop coach, check all fluid levels."

 

The 2001 Executive manual says the exact same thing.

Monaco RV Service & Repairs - Monaco Coach

12 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Keep in mind your in a box with little insulation!

Be prepared to burn lots of fuel, whether propane, electricity, or diesel!

Unless your happy with being bundled up like an eskimo!

I've spent the winter on jobs in different travel trailers, then a "4 season with arctic package" Montana fifth wheel. 

Compared to those this Monaco is like being in an underground house as far as heating and cooling go.

The tires were dated 2010 when I bought this Camelot last year. It had been sitting for 8 years. They looked new. I was scared of them so I had the tire shop come out and do it here. That was the big selling point of motorhometires.com anyway, they do it on your site.

It was full of fuel. I stuck a long straw in the tank and drew out some fuel, it looked and smelled ok. I changed both fuel filters and drove it. Had local truck shop change oil and filter, trans fluid, and they had to put a new ac compressor on. 

Filled it to the top again and drove it to Florida, 1200 miles, then to Sarasota and back from my lot in Florida, 180 miles, then another 1200 miles home. Had no bad fuel problems. On the way down I had a no start and immediately changed both filters again but they looked fine. No start ended up being due to a loose electrical connection to the lift pump.

Great job!

I read all these fridge threads just in case something happens to my 1402. It still works great outside of the ice dispenser quit and I haven't tracked that problem down yet.

My 1402 is in a slide so unfortunately I'd have to do carpenter work even to get your refrigerator to fit. Everything is too tall.

I think you might need a new capacitor in the rear ac.

I marked this as solved. When I got back from the motorhome I had a pm from Paul Whittle and he has the board I need and is going to take care of me.

He's the greatest!

8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Unplugging one keypad should not stop the others from working, but unplugging it while the system is running can confuse things.

Try tuning the house 12V off and on to let the Intellitec system restart to get rid of the backlighting. You can use the Salesman Switch, or the House Battery disconnect switch.

My guess is your switch panel has failed and needs replacing.

The Monaco keypads are NLA from Intellitec, but I have a small number of them.

I have had one switch panel fail, and seen a couple of other people’s switch panels fail.

I have also seen some individual buttons become intermittent, and have been able to repair them.

Thanks Paul. I have more stupid questions, please bear with me.

The number on this switch board is 00-00966-010. The other numbers are 16606, 10 BTN PMC SW. M&M shows one on their website but it says programmable and call for availability and purchase. Do you have this 10 button board? How much does a similar board cost?

I take it the boards are used with lights going to lots of different places than how mine is set up, thus the need for the programming? And the programming could possibly be retrieved from my old board? And if it can't then my coach would have to be present in order to fix all this? Are there failure points on this old board that could be repaired without reprogramming?

Before I make any phone calls or anything to do with replacement or such I'm going to go down to the Camelot shortly and cycle the power again, unplug and plug in the switch repeatedly, and if I get the results I'm expecting (which are none) I'm going to pull the front plate and switch board apart and inspect it for a loose wire or burnt looking places. I'm in IL quite a ways from you or M&M.

Sorry for the multitude of questions and thanks again.

Disappointment today. Got the switch plate off and the switch out. Sprayed the plug ins with electronic cleaner, q tip won't fit in there.  Plugged it back in and out several times, wiggled wires and plugs and pushed buttons, no lighting up or any activity.

Odd thing I noticed is all the switch pads stay lighted up with this one unplugged. The buttons are white, then the ones in use are yellow on the side. The switch pads never stayed lighted up before until they were touched.

Here are some pictures:

Wire from wall, 2 yellows, 2 browns, 2 reds.

Back of switch

Front of switch

Plug for switch

So 6 wires to the plug and 3 out to the switch.

So now I'm wondering if I should remove that board from the buttons and see what it looks like in there?

This is my rear electrical bay where I told you it was on facebook. Bottom right is the fuse.

13 hours ago, Ken Thompson said:

Thanks Ray, it seems my thread has been hijacked! No big deal, but like you say, it's getting confusing as far as who is commenting about which one.

You jumped in another guy's thread. This is your thread:

9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Some far there have not been any reports of premature failure.  Mine is 10 years old….in the ceiling.  And it has had at least 6,000 miles of vibration for 8 of them.  The IOTA failed because of a bad design as well as poor connections.  Nothing to do with location.  Proceed as planned.  NOW, if you read the post on mounting…..try to find READ metal and mount to one of the braces up there.  I did it that way as the iIOTA was loose.  Sheet metal screws (looked like deck screws) into the thin cardboard is not secure.  Just because Monaco’s method was shoddy, doesn’t mean you have to be…LOL!

It's solid, I gave it the tug test (old lingo from my fifth wheel days)

Talk of not mounting the esco on the ceiling scared me for a minute. That's where my iota was, that's where I put my esco, that's where it's staying because there's really no where else to put it.

17 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, the hollow tubes rust until they break at the thin part where the holes are drilled. 

If you go that route, probably a good idea to make spares!

I think it will be fine, never had a problem until the semi threw that monster turtle under my driver side. I absolutely hate it when someone, especially a large vehicle, usually a truck driver, passes me then immediately cuts me off so I can't see what's ahead.

I'll check it on the regular, along with the fender screws now that I know how flimsy that whole assembly is.

On 5/28/2022 at 1:57 PM, JohnC3 said:

I use brake line. It's rigid enough, can be cut to length and when you flatten an end you can drill a nice hole to secure it.

John

I bought brake line. When I got the old brace out of the basement storage to make a new one and looked it over good, it was identical to the brake line I bought. I thought it to be a solid rod but it isn't. I made a spare since both sides are the same. Putting the new brace on was easy.

I just tackled this yesterday and what a pain when it comes to the fender part. Can't get a #2 sq driver on a screwdriver through the gap. Thought I would take off the basement door to give me room, well I found that it also has 2 screws in that miniscule gap holding the hinge. I honestly don't know how they built the thing. I bought a 6 inch extension for #2 square that would barely fit. Duct taped the gap on both sides so I wouldn't scratch the paint, and managed to get it in there. Had to work the screw up from the bottom since screw head wouldn't fit through the gap.

The little ledge they give to screw to on the fender isn't big enough and it's not substantial at all so I put a washer on there too. I checked the other fender and there was a screw missing there so I duct taped the edges and replaced that screw also.

My bts didn't work. It was connected to the negative post. When I had to get a new magnum 2012 I don't remember if one came with it or if I bought one.

There was no way I could see to get the telephone wire from the inverter back to the batteries. I bought a phone wire splice and added it to the end of the old wire. Still doesn't work. Pretty sure I ended up unplugging it.

Have had no battery problems or charging problems though.

Was at the motorhome today working on something else, went inside and decided to try and pry the switch cover off the non working switch.

Got to the point I was afraid of it breaking and then my fingers slipped and it popped back. And came on.  So it's obviously a connection in the switch.

It worked the whole time I was inside, then I went back out to do something else and when I went back in it was dead again.

So I know for sure what to do now.

Was down there today giving the roof another coat so I cycled the power. Unplugged from 50 amp, turned battery disconnects. Waited 10 minutes.

Not a success. 

So my next project will be to put the bedroom slide out so I can get to the panel and go through Tom's troubleshooting list. The bed slide blocks all my electrical panels.

So I put the 2nd coat on today. Ended up using 2.5 quarts of Rustoleum Topseal. The 2nd coat took as much and maybe a little more than the 1st which seems unusual in my experience.

35 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

First.  Do some searching here first….here is what I found.  I started to combine this one with the old one,  that prevents a whole bunch of disjointed thread titles on the same subject.  Read it.  Now…..then read my comments below.  

first….resetting by pulling the power resets the IPX (Brain) as well as the system.  Leave it off for at least 5 minutes.  Three ways of doing that.  House disconnect switch….should work.  The salesman’s switch at the door…pushing it down will work,….removing the positive from the house bank….

NO JOY….ODDS ARE….there is a loose connection in the pigtail that the Multiplex pad plugs into.  So..Second.  Take something like a Swiss Army knife blade and slip it under the cover and the cover will pop out.  It has been a while since I did this.  If it is screwed on….remove the screws.  Now….I ASSUMED you mean the switch in the hall sink or the vanity as Monaco calls it.  I THINK that switch has a PUMP button on it.  If so, there are two separate pigtails.  They are different….so Don don’t panic.  You need to find the two connectors and unplug each.  One is for the pump start….2 wires.  The other is the data link that connects the pad to the system.

Plug and unplug a few times.  You can use a Q-tip and alcohol to clean the contacts on the pigtail ends…or spray with ELECTRONIC (not electrical) cleaner. Plug It back end and remount….or let it dangle.  If it doesn’t work, do the power off again.

Next up….and this will be a much needed Preventative Maintenance item….trip OFF the Generator breaker on it.  Disconnect the shore.  Turn off BOTH MAIN BATTERY SWITCHES.  Turn OFF the Inverter….you might want to disconnect the House battery….just a precaution.  That kills the inverter.

Pull off the main brown panel cover. Tighten every screw inside the panel.  There is a wooden, thin, panel below the main and sort of behind the three Intellitec modules.  Remove  it.  You might have to wiggle it out.  Some have said it was easier to remove a cabinet door.  Behind it is a treasure trove of electrical connections.  There is a 5 (memory) terminal strip circuit breakers there.  Tighten everything in there….screw terminals or screws with wires in terminals.  There is a big power nut on each Intellitec.  Tighten them.

If you have a loose connection or an erratic one, it will drive you bonkers,

Now, button it back up.  Turn back on the power.  If t your batteries are fully charged, test it.  Make sure to push the Salesman switch to the top…just to insure it is latched and on.

From this point on….it does get complicated.  to locate the three Intellitec modules….usually in the cabinet in the bathroom…..below and to the right of the main panel.  

IF I read your first post right….then you can turn on the overhead fluorescent light from the bedroom pad….you can also turn on the pump from another switch.  If you do not see the pad light up that switch or the backlight….then it gets heavier.  Do the above and report back here.

then others or myself can chime in.  Until you do the above and eliminate the known issues….doing wild things and shotgunning it will not work.  You have to have good power….thus the tightening.  Tightening the AC power is probably not the issue, but it will take maybe 5 minutes and you will have less gremlins,  the 5 terminal circuit breaker terminal strip can get loose and drive you crazy….again….we eliminate an item.

Let us know.  There is no magic bullet or “do this” if the first reset doesn’t work or making sure the switch leads are connected…..

Good Luck.  Keep us posted.

I have switches next to the couch, under the hydro hot panel, they work.

Largest switch pad is by the kitchen sink, next to the mirror and the shelf above the sink where I keep my liquor (ahhh so tasty). It's the one that isn't working. No water pump switch on it I recall. Probably because the big panel with invertor/generator/water pump switch/ems readout is right around the corner. Tons of lights, not sure I've even used all of them yet.

Shower/vanity has a switch pad, it has a water pump.

Toilet room/vanity has a switch pad, it has a water pump.

Then bedroom switch pad.

I promise I searched 3 pages worth and got disinterested, should have stayed with it I guess.

Ok, I guess I did the search wrong here. I did a search on irv2 and Paul Whittle says kill the battery disconnects and it will reset and if it doesn't further investigation is required.

I'll try that in the morning before I ask any more questions about it.

Today I was in the motorhome and went to turn on the lights on the pad by the sink, it's dead. I push the buttons but nothing happens. It doesn't light up or turn on the lights. It worked last time I was down there.

The pad in the bathroom works, other living room pad works, bedroom pad works, best I can tell all the lights work. I didn't get to mess with it much because I had to run home right away.

Motorhome is plugged in, batteries charged, nothing else abnormal.

Wondering when I get back down there tomorrow if killing all power to it would reset it, like unplugging the motorhome and turning the battery disconnect?

Or do I need to look at the master panel in the closet for a blown fuse? There's an intellitec panel in the closet with a lot of fuses.

Thanks in advance.

9 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

You can easily convince someone to change a filter, lube a joint, change the oil, check the antifreeze.

 

But I will be damned if it is not nearly impossible to have someone change an electrical part on the advice of an expert. 

Try to convince a customer to change a battery out because it is the problem but it "looks fine", and my mechanic said "your systems are drawing 12 volts". 

The transfer switches are absolutely cheap in the world of RV's.  You can buy three or four for the price of one tire and you change those darn things just because of dates on them. 

But just cannot get it into someones head they should change an electrical part.

OK, getting off my soapbox.

NOT yet. Try to get someone to change out their BIRD solenoid is a great example. "It looks ok". Or the Salesman Solenoid. These two things should be on the list to be changed. It is not a matter of if but when.

OK, I'm getting down now.

I kind of understand. If not for my extensive reading I wouldn't have known about the iota. I changed out my iota for a lyght, but the iota was pristine. Connections tight, no burn marks. If a mechanic had told me I needed to change it I'd have thought he was taking me for a ride.

BUT, I saw the pictures of the burnt ones, read the stories about the fires, and went ahead and did it.