FishAR

Finally got around to working on this today. Took the camera out, sprayed the connection, didn't help. Took the camera apart and saw there was really nothing I could do in there. Inside of the lens is wet and I really can't get at it to dry it off. I do think I see a really blurry image of my driveway and grass in my yard but it's just colors.

Couldn't figure out how to get the top of the dash off, I pried with my finger on those upholstered buttons that are obviously covering screws but they wouldn't come off and I didn't want to tear them up. Gave up for now. We're leaving Friday, 1200 miles to florida and have other things to get done.

I wasn't going to pull the silverado all that way and not ever see it so I went to walmart and bought a license plate camera.

Maybe I'll get back to it after we get settle in at the florida place.

38 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I completed my IOTA replacement a couple mo ago, mine did have a ground. Are you sure you just didn’t push it out of the way and then didn’t see it? Mine was a solid maybe 8ga wire covered with a black wire loom. BTW my old IOTA too looked perfect inside and I too heeded the warning. Maybe try some type of loctite (Not Red) on the threads. I bought the tool and sleeves mentioned in this thread and tightened mine to the 45in lbs the TS I used recommended. 

No, there was no chassis ground hooked up to the iota. I saw the lug inside where one went, it was marked. 

There were however 16 screws through the top of the iota into the basement ceiling. I figured that someone must have got fired the day before for not putting enough screws in the transfer switch or something, it was ridiculous.

I changed the iota out yesterday morning for a lyght esco  lpt50brd. I was not impressed with the innards of the lpt50brd at all. I tightened all the terminals at least 6 times, they would be tight and then I'd go back and check and not tight.

My iota was spotless and looked like new inside but I heeded the warnings.

I have a question about chassis ground? No instructions with the lpt50brd at all. My iota didn't have a chassis ground although there was a place for it so I guess it isn't needed?

2 hours ago, willbo777 said:

That's why they have alarms:-)

We dodged a bullet a few years ago with the 5th wheel due to her watching and no alarm went off. One fifth wheel tire was out of line with the others  both in temp and inflation but not enough to set off an alarm. We pulled off at tampa at a rest area and I found the entire inside of the tire worn down almost to the cord. Turned out we had a bent axle.

1 hour ago, W7BE_Bob said:

Use the sticker until you can weight the rig, full fuel, fresh water and cargo. I run 120, 90, 80 based on actual weight. Both the steer and dual are just a few hundred pounds of max axle weight. Tag is 5,000 lbs but I can't increase it's weight to decrease the dual because the steer is at max. Within specs but a poor Monaco design IMHO.

Check the mfg load inflation tables and you'll see single and dual tires weight are different per tire. My steers carry about 7,000 and duals 5,000 which puts the axles at the max.  Tag axle is rated at 10,000. BTW I could go 70 psi on the tag which is the minimum.

FIND the tables for those tires, call the mfg, or use an equivalent table basedon a reliable tire professional person.

Tire pressure IS lower when it's cold. How often do you have to add air? 107 sounds a little low to me.

Why does the TST display need watching vs the alarm. Do you also switch to watch pressure?

 

FYI TPMS sensors on the valve stems read lower than the actual tire tempature by as much as 40-50 degrees. The reason is obvious - the stem itself is cooled by ambient air vs inside the tire. Short rubber stems would likely have less difference but I would never recommend them. TST knows this but won't verify. A hint is in the manual where they suggest to NOT change the upper temperature. My suspicion is they have programmed a algorithm to account for the temperature difference. This would apply to any brand sensor on the valve stem.

 

I haven't put air in the tires since they were installed back in august. So never. 

TST shows pressure and temp at the same time. At least mine does.

My education continues.

I went and put the tpms sensors caps on all 8 tires and programmed them to the display. Tires had lost a little air due to the cold, down from 120 that the tire shop put in them to around 107. I have to drag the air compressor down there to air them so I figured I should look and find out exactly how much air to put in. Could find no chart for Hercules. These are J rated tires and I think 130 pounds cold pressure on the sidewall. No time for weighing anyway.

So I find the sticker by the drivers seat by standing on my head.

Steers 115

Duals 85

Tag 80

I had no idea. It almost seems like the duals and tag would look flat at those pressures but I guess not.

I think I'll go steers 120, duals 90, and tag 85. Then I have to reprogram high and low limits into the tst display by axle. Then add 4 silverado tires at 35 psi.

My wife is going to go nutty watching those different tire pressures cycle through that monitor as she watches it for me. She's used to just having to watch the 4 fifth wheel tires cycle through. I think I'll draw her a picture of the motorhome and silverado with the different axle pressures she can refer to until she gets the hang of it.

Here's a Monaco pamphlet on your coach: Executive inserts (rvusa.com)

It says your gross vehicle weight rating is 46,000 pounds. That's not how much the coach weighs, that's the max it can weigh loaded down.

Gross combined vehicle weight rating is 53,000 which generally means you can tow 7,000 pounds or have a 7,000 pound hitch, this seems low.

Front gross axle weight rating 13,000

Rear 23,000 pounds

Tag 10,000 pounds

Not full up yet?

Leaving for florida in less than a month for 6 months. I bought a 2018 GMC Terrain recently just to get me to the golf course and back when we're home in the summer.  I should have waited until we got home next summer but I didn't. so since I'm going to be pulling the Silverado the Terrain will be parked inside my shop the whole time we're gone. Last year when we had the dually and fifth wheel the Silverado stayed parked in the shop for 6 months, came home and the battery was deader than a doornail.

So I obviously need to do something. I figure I can

Unhook the battery, but don't know what that would do to all the computer stuff being unhooked for 6 months.

or Buy a battery maintainer and leave it plugged in the whole time. A maintainer like the one I put on my Camelot to keep the chassis battery when we're parked, NOCO GENIUS1, 1-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, 6V and 12V Battery Charger, Battery Maintainer, Trickle Charger, and Battery Desulfator with Temperature Compensation

It kind of bothers me to leave something like that plugged in and unattended for 6 months.

What would you all do?

I've been lucky I guess. This is the first year with the motorhome but in 5 years going to Florida with travel trailers and a fifth wheel I haven't missed a travel day yet.

The first year on the way home with a travel trailer (we only went 3 weeks that year) got hit with an ice storm in Murfreesboro TN and wanted to pull over but semis had every ramp and rest area filled up so kept soldiering on in 4 wheel drive. Going 40 mph on interstate, cars in ditch at every bridge, wife telling me "You're going to get run over from behind". I said Well I prefer that to jack knife or hitting something with my front, sometimes we could barely see.

I still get chills thinking about it.

2 hours ago, Brett63 said:

Has anyone moved their TV from overhead and put it behind the couch on passenger side on a televator, in a slide)

We want to move our TV and make it a televator lift TV behind the couch. The move isn't a big deal, but I can't figure out how to get the cable and HDMI cable over to it. Our receiver and audio/video equipment is in a cabinet right above the passenger seat. 

I can't come up with a good way to get the cables in the slide, any ideas?

09 Signature Cambridge IV

I got lucky, the back of the outside tv is behind my curb side couch. When I was putting new tv's in I added a 43 inch tv on the outside tv enclosure on that side. I just threw a splitter on the RG6 and hooked both tv's to it.

59 minutes ago, Bill R said:

Mike - Glad you found this out.  I was going to say that I just discovered this last weekend that if I over-rotated my main battery disconnect just a bit past ON it would turn off all power.  Let me know where you get the disconnects, I'd like to replace as well.

I found some on amazon that look just like what is on there now. $13.49 each. Bought 2 in case the chassis one quits.

 Amazon.com: Nilight - 90015A Battery Switch 12-48V Waterproof Heavy Duty Battery Power Cut Master Switch Disconnect Isolator for Car Vehicle RV and Marine Boat (On/Off),2 Years Warranty : Automotive

I was going to go to town to Gander Outdoors but all they had was a blue sea and it was $50 plus. I figured I could wait 2 days. I've got both cables tied to the same post and the assembly wrapped in duct tape for now, plus I'm not taking the Monaco anywhere for a few days.

Turned out to be the main battery disconnect. Have 2 on order getting here thursday.

3 hours ago, Jeff H said:

I had a similar issue.  It was the relay in the front run bay.  Bottom left in your picture.  My picture is rotated 90 deg sorry .

Below is a picture is with the relay removed.

 

Thank you! That is very helpful.

38 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Pretty sure since you may have a BigBoy relay, the solenoid is in there too, not up front.

I have a trombetta in the rear bay, here's pics of front and rear elec bays.

rear

I brought the wiring diagrams in from the coach, I'm going to study them before I start.

I'll get the meter out and test all these.

I think the salesman switch relay is in the front roadside elec bay, not sure. I think the big one in the back curb bay is battery combiner, again not sure.

I DO know where the chassis battery disconnect is though, lol.

4 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I would start by checking the solenoid ^^^^ and it may be in the Rear R Box. The refrigerator not powering up bothers me unless it’s not a residential… NoCold.

Refrigerator is dometic 1402

From what I've learned here and other places I'm going to go out and jumper the salesman switch solenoid in the front run bay, or at least test it.

Then test the house battery disconnect.

Funny this happens right after getting service.

Got the Camelot home from the shop and no 12 volt. I thought they had just let house batteries go dead so I plugged it in, charged overnight, shows full charge.

Inverter on, inverter remote panel showing full charge.

Microwave is lit up.

EMS panel is dark, plugged in to 30 amps.

None of the multiplex light switches work.

Refrigerator doesn't turn on.

Generator will not prime or crank, red light on switch doesn't light up.

Slides will not work. I can get to intellitec panel in closet with slides in, but can't get to main panel as bed slide hides it.

I have turned battery disconnect off and back on, no change. I have turned salesman switch off and back on, no change.

Reading up now getting info from manuals and such before I go out and dig into the electrical bay.

Looking for tips, thanks.

Aladdin Jr system
I have to back up the road to get in my driveway. I noticed yesterday that my center rear camera was showing a gray snowy screen. I'm pretty sure it worked before even though I haven't had this motorhome long.

Side cameras work.

What should I look for?

49 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

Was this work done at a Speedco?  If so, I didn’t know they could all that work. What was done to the generator?  

No, a local truck shop.

Generator wouldn't start. I changed the oil and filter, fuel filter, air cleaner. Still wouldn't start.

They said I had a leak in a fuel line. No fuel on the floor though so I guess it was sucking air? 

Got a text, motorhome is done. Called and asked why they changed fuel filters as I had changed them right before I took it up there. They said Their mistake so they took that off the bill.
$3155.84

Generator repair
Oil and filter
Trans oil and filters
New belts
Grease
New air conditioning compressor
New fuel pressure valve

Now if it will just quit raining I'll go get it in a bit.

How much they charged me for the oil change will determine if I let them do it next year or not.

1 hour ago, Steve P said:

Got me thinking... maybe I'll replace my toad with a diesel pickup, and put a large auxiliary tank in the pickup bed, with a refueling hose.   Then I can fill that up easily at places that won't accommodate a 60' rig, and do a fuel transfer to the motor home when I get back there with the pickup.  Any thoughts on that? 

I thought about doing that with my 2018 Ram dually, I already had that kind of 60 gallon tank in it.

But I thought I might be crowding my 10,000 pound tow limit closer than I wanted, plus who wants to pull a crew cab dually around, and I got offered so much money for it I couldn't turn it down.

More than I paid new.

37 minutes ago, bandmmorris said:

My rear bay is somewhat different. Yours does not seem to have the small enclosures with fuses that mine does. Mine also has battery disconnects (for chassis and coach) and some other items.

Amazing how we have 2 coaches, same year, same model, yet different.

Mid year changes I guess.

I wish my 42pdq was here so I could look but it's still at the shop. Racking my brain I remember no small wires attached to any batteries, only the bts from the house batteries which doesn't matter here.

I also don't remember any small enclosures with fuses inside my rear elec bay.

Does your rear bay look like this?

My owner manual says the air conditioning compressor is always active to remove humidity from the rv unless you turn the whole system off. 

3 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Nope. Even us 10 baggers do the same!

Yes, right there in the owners manual even.