FishAR

Some of these prices are shocking to me. My Camelot has everything I could dream of in it...

Well I take that back, bath and a half would be nice as would a residential refrigerator.  I came across this that was in my ownership papers/manual packet. I had to take the picture to send to the insurance company for my tow truck damage claim last winter.

NADA shows it at $303,481 list price new.

2 hours ago, Martinvz said:

Question for those that have painted the coach roofs. Before painting, did you remove all the old self leveling compound and reseal using the same or Eternabond?

I'm pretty sure it's recommended to do so, but mine all looked good so I just painted over it.

29 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Thar would be our illustrious Chris Throgmartin….owner and Founder of Talin.  He was a member that made replacement toppers for awnings and then just “morphed”.  I had his new, then, vinyl toppers installed at an RV shop in his home town of Brooksville, FL.  He started doing slide “inspections” and designed and developed the “Guardian Plates”.  He eventually expanded into a repair and installation shop and has two or more techs.  

He is an asset to the group.  My 2015 toppers are still good as new….and work and have no perceptible wear.  I have purchased and installed 3m sets of his plates.

He gives a lot of good info on the facebook page, helps a lot to cut through the stupidity.

On 7/2/2022 at 9:43 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

I stand corrected; my notes are wrong.  I’m just glad this thread came up before I bought 2 gallons! 😂

Your notes might not be as bad as you think. I was just reading the facebook Monaco Owners forum and someone asked a roof question.

Chris T. Talin (forget his name here) said they use a gallon and a half for 2 coats and put it on thick. Rustoleum top coat wasn't mentioned though, I think maybe they use dicor coating.

On the rustoleum though I did use just a little over a quart for the first coat.

On 6/30/2022 at 12:16 PM, jacwjames said:

If you use the Rustoleum Topside paint it took me 2 quarts to do two coats.  No primer required. 

I bought mine at Lowes

How important do you think it is to give 2 coats? I know it's the smart thing to do but I'm having a real hard time getting up there and doing the 2nd one.

Should have clarified in original post

This happens while cooking, flame is already lit and doing fine. Not during ignition. And after reminding myself what a foot is by looking at my tape measure, probably more like an 6-8 inch flare up.

Just getting around to seeing about this, wife brought it up the other day. During the winter in Florida every now and then the front burner on the 3 burner stove top would flare up. Flame jump up a foot or so with a poof sound like you'd just lit a gasoline fire.

I told wife to use the other burners and see if they did it, apparently being hard headed as a mule she never did, she loves the front burner.

Regulator? 

Is there something in the cooktop that could cause this?

I had a coleman road trip grill hooked up to the outside propane connection run through the same regulators off the main tank and it never flared up like that.

24 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

42ft, do you have a tag axel?  I'm not sure but the 3rd A/C seems to be limited to those coaches.

 

Going by what they told Ken I bet yours is framed out for a 3rd A/C, the question is how can you be sure of the location.  Will a stud locator help?  If it's framed for air I think the framing will be metal maybe steel.  I would try a stud finder or a magnet & see if you can map out a square.

Yes I have a tag axle.

4 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Yeah, me too.  Now Kens post about having enough roof support has me questioning my idea of adding a 3rd A/C.

Does anyone know of someone adding a 3rd A/C to a Windsor/Camelot or lower coach?

I didn't add any but my Camelot came with 3. At least 2 of them are heat pumps.

I just finished the first coat of rustoleum topside.

It took a little over a quart. I bought 3 so I have plenty thankfully.

I have 3 ac's, 3 roof vents, sat dish, tv antenna, skylight up there so I decided to brush it all. Still not sure if that was the right decision but I'm sticking with it.

Boy is that a job for a 65 year old, I should have taken better care of myself when working for the man instead of laying it all out for them.

2-3 days I'll give it the 2nd coat.

55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Many more folks knowledgeable than me, but the OEM was not a 3M product.  I had Dazzling Detail replace mine in 2018.  The use a 3M film.  It took about a day and a half to totally strip and touch up the paint.  Then a day to install.  Paul Newman is the owner and has mobile folks in a large area.

As a suggestion, I would have the headlights polished….as well as the ones on your Toad.  Have them film the headlights.  The 3M film is UV resistant.  My headlights  are still sparkling.

 

Wife and I were looking at it the other day and how much was loose and where the breaks in it are.

Noticed that the top section under the windshield seems to be the original from the factory still. They had to remove the bottom sections and the generator slide section to do the body repairs from the tow truck incident.

It seemed the top original section was MUCH thicker than the new stuff.

I'm not 100% sure that's what I've got but I'm talking about the clear plastic protector film on the front of my Camelot from the bottom up to the windshield. There are different brands I think.

Has anyone taken their class A to a shop and had this removed and then replaced? I know it took a day to put on last year when I was having my body repairs done but I don't know how long it took to take off since I wasn't there.

Here's the thing, this stuff started coming loose on my trip home to IL from Gerzeny's in Sarasota. I called them when I got to my next stop and they said No problem, it's got a lifetime guarantee. I said Well it will have to be next fall when I come back to Florida because I have to get to IL. Sent them pictures and documented it with emails.
Well next fall is almost here. I'm trying to figure out my living accommodations while this is being done. Body shop manager isn't much help, he obviously doesn't know, he just says We'll make an appointment and I'll talk to them and see. Well I need an idea in advance. Also he's not been forthcoming with his sub contractor vendor who does this so I can't contact them. Last year at first he said they have vendors all over the country so maybe they can come to you in IL and do it, well that fell through, the vendor said No it has to be done here and in Gerzeny's shop.

So long story short I'm wondering how long a removal and replacement takes.

I won't spend the night at a walmart, there are campgrounds all over.

On my way through town on an early morning the other day a pusher was parked at Casey's with the slides out in everyone's way. With a trailer behind it and a jeep. 

There's a campground one block from that Casey's.

I don't get it.

Now do it from the side.

18 hours ago, Mike Wahl said:

I have a 2018 Jeep Wrangler that I have started researching to set up for flat towing behind our 2001 Signature.  During my research I ran upon the surge braking system built-in to the tow bar by NSA.  Just wondering if anyone has used this and their thoughts on this style system verse an air or electric system.   Also does this system meet the requirements for supplemental braking.  

I pull a 2010 Silverado ex. cab 4x4 with the nsa hercules tow bar and ready brake. Has worked well for me.

Not sure what those rings are, my 2007 Camelot doesn't have them. Camelot has a speaker on each side of the tv and a little storage cubby below the speaker on the right where I put the remote. 2 lift cylinders and latches on the sides instead of the bottom, so looks like they're completely different.

I was able to fit a 32" fire tv in my space in place of the aquos.

I wish I'd have thought to run a small extension cord out while I had it opened up like you did so I could charge my phone there.

7 minutes ago, vito.a said:

I've installed several of the fan vent covers.  The cover bracket screws go into the fan housing horizontally so it doesn't matter what the pattern is.  

I put three of these covers on while in florida during the winter and they didn't screw to the curb. Remove 4 screws in the roof and mount brackets.

Amazon.com: Fan-Tastic Vent U1500BL Ultra Breeze Vent Cover - Black : Automotive

ULTRA BREEZE INSTALL MANUAL 1_23_12.pub (media-amazon.com)

2 hours ago, moonlitblue said:

We only have one Salesman switch and it only turns off the 12VDC to the coach. I believe a Knife Switch is what I need. Unfortunately, go figure these 30' Short buses are unusual. When the Chassis battery goes dead the steps stop working, go figure.

 

My steps run off the chassis battery also, as does my awning.

Hercules 295/80R22.5

Good to hear everyone saying 2 quarts, I bought 3 just to be safe. I would have bought a gallon but couldn't find one since I hate buying paint by the quart.

Just got done scrubbing the roof down with dawn. Barely beat the hot sun. Still need to wash the sides and put the coach inside.

Who fills it for you? They have to shut if off to fill it.

My shutoff is the first thing coming out of the tank, I'd think they would all be that way for safety. 

The radio in my outside entertainment center, sirius/am/fm/cd/dvd player just turns itself on now.

I'll go out and open the hatch and turn it off, later go out and it will be on again.
Almost 6 months in Florida and it didn't do this but now that it's in my driveway it is.
Thought maybe a tv remote but I'm 30 ft from it in the house and I don't remember if the radio even comes with a remote.

Time to dig into the owner manual again I suppose.

3 hours ago, JohnC3 said:

I use brake line. It's rigid enough, can be cut to length and when you flatten an end you can drill a nice hole to secure it.

John

That sounds like a great idea, already have some in my amazon cart since I saw your post.

27 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I moved mine.  Nothing magic in where Monaco put them.  If you want them to stay place, the use 3/16 pop rivets in the fiberglass side with a washer on the end so that you get two good clamping surfaces.  Ordinarily, I’d recommend SS, but since you will be working below the fender, a long handled tool, which is what you need, will not work,  if you purchase a cheap pneumatic tool from Harbor Freight, then use SS.

Then put the other end where it works.  The brake line, flattened, sounds like a good idea.  In a pinch, use aluminum strap from Lowes.  I use the washered self drilling screws….with the rubber washer.  Drive then, but final torque by hand.

 NOW, if you vibrated and pulled out the fender, inspect the upper portion, where it is attached to the body,  I had the 2 fronts vibrate and make noise,  there were maybe 3 vertical (driven straight up) in each one.  I added 2 more.  TRICK OF IT.  Again, do not use your drill to final seat. There is or were on mine, a gap between the fender and the body,  if you don’t you run the risk of pinching the gap and cracking.  Maintain the existing gap….trust me, putting a pop rivet there ain’t a good idea.  A 1/4” ratchet works great.  I also use the metal roofing screws as they have the vibration (expansion/contraction) washer and are. Nice hex washer.

Good Luck…keep us updated..  

After looking at it at the rest area I decided to just take it off and put it in the bed of my silverado toad. Front end though was filled with foam and glue, no way it was coming off.

Back end though, like you say, gap between fg and metal. Top 2 screws were just gone. Bottom one had unfortunately cracked the side of the hole so it was still there.

I'll relocate the bottom hole, put screws in the other 2 holes, and add a few others.

Saddest part of the operation though is I think I'll have to remove the adjacent basement door to do this, barely room for a screwdriver in there with the door shut, no access with door open. 

Anybody here broke one?

I pulled into a rest area somewhere in southern TN just in time, got out and saw my driver side front fender sticking out about 4 inches. I had a semi spit a large turtle out at me the day before that I ran over on that side is all I can figure did it, then I guess the screws in the fender rattled out.

Stupid brace has 2 holes in each end and very little metal around the unused hole, that's where it broke.

I found some plumbing strap I had used to secure an ac capacitor in my tool box so I used it to get me home along with duct taping the top.

I can't find fender braces with lengths listed, they all seem to be model specific for cars and trucks.
Don't like the plumbing strap solution.

Thought about taking it in and getting it welded and having them weld the unused holes shut, it appears to be aluminum so I can't weld it myself.
Also saw I can buy a piece of aluminum strap/bar at the lumberyard for next to nothing. I could drill holes in that and bend it.

What have you all done or would do?

17 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If you watch the Weather Channel at all at night, there are programs on (Highway Thru Hell & Heavy Rescue 401) regarding large rig recoveries and towing. Any big rig towing company worth their weight in smarts know exactly how to do a low recovery without destroying the front cap of the coach.

It's just a matter of rigging the recovery vehicle correctly and having the right equipment. If they don't, they won't touch my coach!

I'm kind of snakebit, went through my first tow last December. Got my motorhome back a week ago after being in the shop for 4 weeks and $16,600 in repairs due to that tow.

Hopefully never need another one but I'm thinking lowboy if I do.