Cubflyer

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

LOOK CLOSELY....there are WHITE spots on the bottom two wires.  You need to INSPECT the wiring.  If you have partially gnawed the wiring, all bets are off. 

Thanks, Tom, yes I did see those wires' insulation, they actually look like someone (prior to me) cut the insulation to expose them (maybe for test??)  I will be checking everything I can before I dive into those switches.  I am very experienced in electrical systems, switches, relays, etc  (50 years as an A&P mechanic)

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Do you have a set of wiring diagrams for your coach?   

Please Frank, if you can find me a wiring diagram for a 2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PST that would be super!

Thanks,

Ken

14 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

  Either of these relays will turn on the brake lights.  Have you already verified that the brake relay is good?

Frank,

I'm away from the coach at the moment (7 hrs)... but when I was trouble shooting this 'inop coach brake lights', I was able to operate my coach and tow dolly lights with my exhaust brake switch or my brake controller.  The coach brake lights and the trailer/dolly brake lights were only inop when stepping on the brake pedal, also when I first hit the pedal, sometimes the coach and the trailer lights would just turn on for an instant (blink and you would miss it). 

So what you are saying about the coach brake light relay and the trailer brake light relay makes sense that both of my pedal switches have failed.  As a side note I have had issues with my ABS that does not show any faults yet the ABS light is on.  So maybe my ABS also has a relationship to those switches.  In the next month or so I will be able to fix this problem.... and maybe even my ABS...!

Ken

Thanks Tom, 

I appreciate your input, it will be a while before I can get back to this problem, but when I do, I will use your counsel.  Yes, bad connections can give electrons fits!

Ken

On 10/17/2022 at 12:08 PM, jacwjames said:

Right off hand I could not see any missing or worn bushing.  I tested the outside handle and saw that I could pull it out some before the inner working even saw the affect of the handle movement.  So I took the small lock/clip off the connecting link #12 in the picture above.  Then broke the lock nut loose and tightened the connecting link #12 just ONE turn.  Then put it back in the hole and tested.  The movement of the outer handle and the inner workings were the same, no loose or wasted movement.

Seems there are latches with bushings and without bushings.... My 2003 Endeavor had no bushing and had no room to add a bushing... same it seems as Jim J, yet I have the same make and year of coach as Rik and his photos show the space and need for a bushing.      Mine only required a rod (#12....?) adjustment (between the outside latch lever and the inside latch mechanism).  Snowflakes.....

Ken

I was able to fix mine by just an adjustment to remove the "slack" in the linkage.....-Ken

Someone posted in another thread about this door latch a Home Depot part number, IIRC...

Interesting Rik that you have the same coach -year, make and model.... but my door did/does not have a bushing in that location on the latch.

Ken

5 hours ago, Capt Mike said:

name of a company in Ohio that orders this switch regularly. I was too late to call on Friday and sent an email instead. Looking forward to getting the brake lights working! Will post if I make progress with the supplier.

I'm still looking for a source for new switches (2), please let me know what you learn, Thanks, Ken

There is an active thread about this currently, I asked the question Oct 5... my inop brake lights seem to be a problem with the switches mounted up front above the generator.... 

Look for "Brake Lights not working"

Those fan resistors are usually mounted on the evaporator box so that they are inside with airflow over them to keep them cool… look around on the outside of the box for something with wires that is screwed on…

Dennis.... Oh this just keeps getting better all the time!  I hoped I could just get my genny access door out of the way so I could at least reach straight up in there. Rather than the contortions that I had to do just to get the photo... now it's sounding like even more to get them off...!    Ken

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

if the OP uses pins instead of having spliced in test points, it is a good visual  reference.

Tom,

While I appreciate the advise on how to test, etc.... in this case, testing will be almost as hard to do as removal.  I'm old and squeezing up in there to probe wires is not happening...

Ken

4 minutes ago, DennisZ said:

On my coach, both switches were bad, maybe one a lot earlier than the other, but they are redundant, so if they both go out, no brake lights. My 1st clue that I had an issue is when my cruise wouldn’t disengage with the brake switch. 

Dennis,

That pretty much sums up my failure mode, my cruise would not disconnect very reliably with the foot pedal brake, but would always with the Exh brake application, and now the tail lights (brake lights) do not light up (although they will blink sometimes on first application). 

This is good info! I was planning on replacing both switches, if those switches were actually what controlled the brake lights, which it seems that, yes, they do.... 

Guess I just need to bite the bullet, reach up in there (PITA) and take them out, source a replacement switch and get it done!

Thanks !

Ken

3 hours ago, DennisZ said:

You can see which wires are used, the harness on the coach that they plug into should only have 2 wires on it.

Guess I need to go chasing some wires! Thanks, I will next time I get to my coach.-Ken

58 minutes ago, DennisZ said:

readily available brake switches as used in commercial applications, I got mine at Napa (P/N MBI BE13250) for about $37 each

Dennis,

Thanks for the info and the photo.  I see that your new switches have two terminals.  The switches I have three wires coming out of them...., red-black-blue. 

Is one of the three wire not used??  At first look mine all seem to be connected, but I have not pulled things out....

Ken

On 10/5/2022 at 12:32 PM, Cubflyer said:

My brake lights are not lighting up when I push the brake pedal, they will light up when I use the manual lever for the trailer/toad.  Sometimes when I step on the brake pedal just right I can get them to blink momentarily,... so I think the switch that the pedal/air system activates has gone bad.   

Anyone know the part number of these switches??

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

couldn’t find anything on my Windsor but I’ll look again. What diameter pipe am I’m looking for?

Mine were about 3" diameter, located near each frame rail starting forward of the rear axle and aft of the front axle.

1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

Apparently the zinc can dissolve into the fuel, and then plate out on fuel pump parts and injectors.

>>>>>Does zinc react with diesel?
Contact with zinc, copper, or metal alloys that contain zinc or copper. These metals react with diesel and form unstable compounds, which means there is higher potential for dangerous chemical reactions like explosions.<<<<<

>>>>>CAUTION: Copper and zinc, either in the form of plating or as a major alloying component, should not be used with diesel fuels. Zinc is unstable in the presence of sulfur, particularly if moisture is present in the fuel. The sludge formed by chemical action is extremely harmful to the engines internal components.<<<<<<

Wow, That is interesting... I never considered that, and I did incorporate some copper in my diesel fuel system....K

2003 HR Endeavor... 40PST  

My brake lights are not lighting up when I push the brake pedal, they will light up when I use the manual lever for the trailer/toad.  Sometimes when I step on the brake pedal just right I can get them to blink momentarily,... so I think the switch that the pedal/air system activates has gone bad.   

Now the question... where is it??  Here is a photo, up front by the generator that may or may not be the switch.... and there are two switches there.... is it one or both of them that turn on the brake lights?? 

And if it is one of those switches, anyone have a part number so I can get one (or more) coming?

1 hour ago, TommyL said:

TommyL 08 camelot isl 400 FASS install. Maybe leave everything original just add FASS?

My only concern with leaving the original lift pump, if the isl lift pump is like the isc lift pump, it is a common problem with them leaking.  I would "Plumb" around it as Jim J said... that is what I did with mine.  

The 40' "suck" is not that big of a problem for the FASS pump, the problem with the 40' "suck" is for the injector pump, especially when trying to suck fuel 40' with a leak (the original lift pump) in the "straw".....   My injector pump seems to love the positive pressure on it's inlet as well as the clean "polished", air free fuel....

Ken

Humans, bugs and pets, etc are not supposed to be exposed to UV-C light, your eyes will suffer with very short direct exposure.  So, for the light to do any good in a refrigerator, it would need to be on when the door is closed.  As far as I know, most refrig lights come on only when the door is open.  If you can get the UV-C light to be on inside the closed refrig, and turn off when the frig is opened, it would probably work.  I use them in my home A/C unit and in my MH while parked and un occupied.  Gives the interior a nice "glow" as seen from the outside.  (I control the light from the outside)

Ken

This is a cheap, simple solution.

https://www.amazon.com/GrillPro-00030-Magnetic-Level-Indicator/dp/B000FHZ33C/ref=sr_1_6?crid=PM3QW8KCE2DJ&keywords=magnetic+gas+level+indicator+for+propane+tank&qid=1664728303&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjE5IiwicXNhIjoiMi45MyIsInFzcCI6IjIuOTEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=propane+tank+gas+level+indicator%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-6

It is not exactly what I bought, but uses the same principle, stick this on the side of the tank, pour hot water over it and watch for the indication of the propane level to show up... seems that the heat sensitive strip 'cools' at a faster rate where there is propane in the tank... so a very 'mechanical indication'.

The strip I found was longer (about 18") but I can see how 3 or 4 of these stacked up would do the same thing.

Adding the freon seems to have brought your system back operational.  Last summer I thought my dash system was low on freon but found it was not. My problem was the thermo switch that turns the compressor off when the evaporator temp gets to about 32 degrees and would start to ice over.  It's a little metal box with a small tube like temp probe coming out of it that goes into the evaporator case (up front near the pressure switch, I believe they are wired in series). Inside the box is a micro switch that is normally closed, opens when sensing about 35 degrees. Replacing that brought my system back into cold ops until this afternoon on the way back from Ohio... right now my a/c is running but the air is cool, not cold.... going to have to check it out tomorrow.  

ok

34 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

The exhaust brake, whether activated by the rocker or foot switch, should automatically disengage whenever you hit the fuel pedal.
It should only operate at idle.

David,

I agree, and have experienced that. True it 'disconnects' with pressing on the fuel pedal, BUT as soon as you let off the fuel pedal it engages again, and on my coach the cruise control will not engage with the engine brake switch in the "ON" position.... so the momentary (foot operated) engine brake switch is the best thing since sliced bread for me!

Ken

I have been enjoying my foot operated engine brake switch! Best mod I've done! Well, except for all the suspension mods.....

Are you planning a separate power source to operate the relay? (I did)  Are you hooking the new relay switches up in parallel to the existing wires... (I did).

2 minutes ago, toastmn said:

On my 2000 Windsor,  the front air bags share the same supply line per side.   Had a flat which the steel belts took out an air bag.  The entire drivers side dropped.  Fun hearing the steps grinding on the pavement before you can stop.

Wow, I'm surprised on one hand that the designers (engineers) did not allow for;   with a flat airbag and no tire, just a rim, that the body (stairs) would not scrap the ground... on the other hand it's not too big of a surprise....

From a photo of a failed airbag, showing the internals of it here in this forum, I believe that there is an internal "stop" that the weight of the coach rests on when an airbag is fully deflated, so I do not think you are doing anything of value with the 4x4's.

As for the reason all the airbags on one 'axle' deflating, I'm no expert on how the system is plumbed, but I do not believe any one airbag has a check valve to trap the air into it, that the airbag is just a 'servo' or 'actuator' and the air exchange is controlled by external components.  Your other airbags that were replaced due to age... did they have holes in them or leaks? Or were they just old and cracked?

Hope you get your leak fixed and all works as designed.