Cubflyer

)))))))))))The recalled circuit breaker boxes were manufactured between February 2020 and January 2022, with date codes between 200561 and 220233. (((((((((((

is this the part we need to understand?   I’m thinking my 2003 Coach is not effected ….

17 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Ken,

It also prevents wear on the pan threads, and prevents some grease monkey from overtightening the plug and pulling the threads out completely.

In over 3 decades of using these valves, I've NEVER had a problem with one of them.

David,

Oh I like quick drains... I just do not see the ROI in this application.

Based on the fact that I change my own oil, the 'grease monkey' is not using an impact gun to remove or install the plug, the threads are not going to wear out or get stripped or cross threaded. (One trip to Jiffy Lube wiped out the threads of a pan that I had done the oil changes on for 180k miles back when we changed oil every 3k miles so I know that pain is real).

I also safety wire my drain plug.... guess I am OCD.

Ken

Quick drains are great! Really handy..... but since I do my own oil changes and they seem to be once a year event, I'm staying with the good old fashion 'plug'. 

Mine has a built-in magnet, quickest, best way to know if there is a problem in your engine.  Easier than cutting the filter open and faster than waiting for an oil sample result.

If you are not doing your own oil changes, WHY would you make it easier for someone else??  And risk it's failure (in many ways.. already mentioned here)???

Ken

All I can say is…. Having been traveling from Memphis, TN area a to SLC….. yes it is hot, but as for traveling at night…… I can not keep track of all the freshly dead deer I’m seeing on the side of the highways….  One deer can (will) destroy your whole trip…. 

1 minute ago, wamcneil said:

Same type that folks use in FASS installs as a dummy load to fool the ECM into thinking the factory lift pump is still present.

Yep, and the "dummy load" is a resistor... or stated another way... a "coil" as in "relay coil"....Or another way.. a "DC motor winding"

Looks like that AirDog harness will take care of the ECM and like JimJ said: 'I'm surprised that Airdog doesn't have that answer'......  But if you also install a fuel pressure gauge, you will get the answer to that pretty quickly...

Ken

I just changed out my house batteries (4ea- 6vdc batteries).... when I got them out I found that all the batteries... house and chassis were sitting on one big plastic tray.  Since I was not really on a mission to rebuild the battery compartment and hold downs (maybe next winter) I just washed out the plastic tray, cleaned the walls as best I could and shot the walls with black spray paint.

My point is, that to clean and paint the metal floor, all batteries, battery hold downs and the plastic tray must be removed (at least on my '03 HR Endeavor).

I wish I had batteries mounted on a sliding tray.... 68lbs each lifted into an opening was not fun!

21 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

I'm inclined to put mine up front at the tank and leave everything alone in the back by the engine.

One of the 'problems' with leaving everything alone back by the engine is that the stock lift pump has a history of leaking where the pump bolts to the housing, That is where my pump was leaking and it is very common. 

I completely bypassed the "supply'  fuel around the original lift pump using the existing flexible hose that went to the housing and a #10 union to connect it to the metal tube that came out the front of the housing and goes to the final filter mounted on the side of the engine just upstream of the CAPS pump.  Simple to do... (I also used a union with an 1/8" NPT port to give me a place to register fuel pressure)

Ken

4 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

I thought there was polishing going on even with the original stock set up.  Doesn't the fuel go through the filters and then most of it returns to the tank?

How about just a regular ol 12v fuel pump installed near the tank.  That should push the fuel to and through the lift pump with positive pressure at the CAPs pump.

From what I understand, fuel return is at least in part to cool the CAPs injector pump polishing is a side benefit

There is "filtering" going on in the stock setup, there is only short term (at engine start) pressure to the CAPS pump, but no fuel is returning to the tank until it passes thru the CAPS pump/system.  On top of that, the CAPS pump has to 'suck' it's fuel thru a 1/2" hose almost 30' long.... I do not think Cummins really was 'consulted' on having their engine mounted that far from the fuel source, with their 'normal' installation components. 

You are right, any 'regular old' pump pushing fuel to the engine from the tank would be an improvement.

Ken

1 minute ago, JDCrow said:

You would still need to trick the CPU into thinking the lift pump is present and still active

That's as easy as a resistor across the two pins of the connector at the factory lift pump

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

But I'm not convinced that I have a big problem with entrained air in the fuel. And my filters don't get clogged a lot, so I'm not real motivated to go out and buy a fuel polishing system.

Why not solve the CAPS problem with a pressure-regulated pump at the tank, and otherwise leave my fuel system as-is?

I've read a few write-ups of folks that have taken this route. Looks to me like a pump would be at least couple-hundred $$ less than an air separation system and somewhat easier to install. 

Is there something I'm missing?

Thanks

Walter

Walter,

I do not know if it is the 'Polished, airless fuel' or the 'positive pressure' to the inlet of the CAPS pump, but I can hear a "tone-al" difference and feel a smoother idle with the FASS system operating. 

Possibly, just having a 'fulltime' lift pump would have the same effect.   Another part of the puzzle may be the price of, and access to, the factory lift pump (that does not run fulltime (by design)) compared to a remotely located aftermarket pump (or pump-filter system).

When I bought my DP, I had such dirty fuel (black like ink) and a leak at my factory lift pump, that I opted for the full filtering-return fuel-lift pump system. 

Ken

15 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Ok... Maybe a more cost effective pump might suffice?

The pump would only need to output 50 GPH (about 3x actual fuel flow) and hold 5 to 10psi to keep the CAPS pump in the "positive world"...

Ken

12 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I'd love to know how much volume the CAPS pump sends back to the tank? 

Bob,

That's EZ if you really want to know,,,,,, disconnect the CAPS return line (at the fuel tank), extend it into a bucket, start the engine.... rev it up, let it idle, see how much is really returned.....  

Ken

On 6/10/2022 at 9:11 PM, vanwill52 said:

Although supplying the outlet pressure of the FASS pump to the INLET of the final filter is the correct way to plumb the system, you only know the pressure at the INLET to CAPS pump if you are measuring the pressure AFTER the final filter and at the INLET of the CAPS pump.  I agree it's unlikely that the final filter will become clogged before the two "primary" filters of the FASS system, but you DO NOT know the inlet pressure to the CAPS pump unless you are measuring the pressure AFTER the final filter and at the INLET to the CAPS pump.  Imagine a final filter becoming clogged, but you are measuring the fuel pressure at the INLET to that filter...You are not measuring the pressure at the INLET to the CAPS pump, which is the most important reading.

Van,

While I totally agree with this statement, sometimes the effort is not worth the results. 

My FASS pump system is mounted where the water separator (primary) filter was located and my original lift pump is bypassed with a union with a " 1/8" NPT" port, I mounted my pressure transmitter there.  Yes, it is before the (still installed on the side of the engine with it's water sensor still installed) final filter.  I'm ok with that knowing that, at least now, I have an indication that my CAPS pump is at least not 'sucking' (fuel or air)... and if the final filter should (which it never should since it is being fed 'polished fuel') clog, the most likely result will not be a CAPS pump failure, but a simple engine shutdown (fuel starvation, not air or water contamination).

My pressure gauge indication gives me two pieces of information I never had before..... knowledge that I have a positive pressure on the inlet side of the final filter...ie CAPS pump (vs a suction) and the FASS pump/filter system is possibly in need of service (filter change).

If I was to do it over... I'm not sure the effort is worth the result, given the access to a port to install a gauge or gauge transmitter into.

Ken

5 hours ago, Rocketman3 said:

Just a thought if you don’t like steep mountain drops. On I-80 coming into SLC divert to I-84 to Ogden then south to I-15 back to I-80 and west to Nevada. 
 

I had an uncle that was a truck driver and he always took that route coming into SLC. I never understood until I drove my MotorHome down I-80. That’s a long downhill. The I84 route is a bit longer (I think about 45 min) but much more gradual. 
 

I think it’s funny that you are adding a foot switch for the engine brake… I have a foot switch and one of my next projects is to add a rocker switch for the brake…😎

Foot switch is for when I'm just doing 'off highway exits' and quick way of cancelling the cruise control plus short term Exhaust brake on, followed by hitting the switch for 'longer term' E.B.   I have found that I tend to forget to turn it off after stopping and that I have some trouble hitting the rocker switch in a hurry... same with the cruise cancel, my regular brake pedal has to be hit pretty hard to cancel the cruise.  I can sure understand why you would want to add a rocker switch if your foot switch is a momentary switch (like the one I added).

Guess I should have been clearer on my route to SLC... I use I-80 vs I-70 between Denver (daughter's home) and Centerville, UT (son's home) which means I do use I-84 towards Ogden.... I have not been on I-80 just east of SLC in the motorhome, but you are correct.. pretty extreme... been there in a car.... years ago ... going to and from Park City, UT.

Rik,

Last summer we went from Denver to SLC by way of I-70, never again in my motor home.... too many 'crazy drivers', construction, steep grades, tight exits (with round-a-bouts) with inaccessible gas stations......  We leave next week heading to Reno... taking I-80, no time to look at those brake linings.. less than 80K total miles... not had a problem with them fading or stopping... 

I have wired the rely into the wires of pins 2&3 and 5&6 of the Exhaust Brake switch.  This should make the relay act to activate both circuits of the system, pretty sure it will also luminate the "bar" in the switch.  It does not change or add a failure point into the factory system.

When I have test proven this I will report back.

Ken

2 hours ago, BigNick said:

An inverter is incapable of charging anything. It uses electricity coming FROM the batteries to power some circuits on the coach, it "inverts" the DC (direct current) voltage from the batteries into AC (alternating current) to power microwaves, refers, and outlets. I have a Xantrex Freedom 3012 unit on my coach, it has an inverter section and a battery charger section, and probably a few others in there that I don't know about yet. I wasn't trying to be a smart ass so please accept my apologies if I offended.

Not offended.... my mistake for not being specific... my statement should have been and was meant as "my inverter/charger only charges my batteries...." 

Take care, Ken

10 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey Ken, so im about to do the same with mine, so my intension was to find the “hot” comin to the switch, disconnect it from the rocker switch and just wire the foot pedal from the wire you removed back with the other wire from the foot switch to to the rocker. That way your rocker is like a master switch, which eleminates havin to sort out the rest. So to operate you leave your rocker on at all times an the foot just compleates the circuit

Rik,

I get what you are saying.... I wonder about how the transmission also is involved since it is a double pole switch,  the rocker is "controlling" two circuits.

Digging in deeper last night, I have determined that 4 of the 8 wires are circuit 'control' and the other 4 are 'indication' (or just lights).... so I'm going to use my foot switch to control a relay (wired in parallel) wired to the switching wires to 'engage' the circuit with the rocker switch in 'off' position.  I feel that will be more reliable and 'safer' because if the foot switch "circuit" fails (in any way, relay fails, switch fails) I will still have Exhaust Brakes with the factory switch... and with drum brakes, and mountain roads..... last year I was "on" the Exhaust Brake and still was gaining speed on the down hills between Denver and Grand Junction... not losing the EB is important!

Sorting out the wires is simple, just tap into the 4 switching wires, keep the two 'sides' (circuits) of the switch separate and connect them to the N.O. relay contacts (of course you need at least a double pole relay (Mine is a 4 circuit relay and I plan to double up on the contacts)...

Ken

14 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Sorry I can’t help you with a schematic but I just installed a foot switch. On my Exec I found the factory switch was normally closed so I had to be sure that I wired my foot switch to be normally closed also and wire it in series instead of parallel. I was fortunate that Monaco had print labeled all of my wires so it was easy to identify them. 
Good luck with your installation. 

Thanks, my switch is open circuit until switched on... and two circuits are controlled......see my post to Rik...

3 minutes ago, Grampy OG said:

That is exactly how mine work on an '03 Executive. In 5 years I have never touched the rocker switch. 

Do you know if your circuit is like mine with 8 wires... ?? See my post to Rik please

2 hours ago, BigNick said:

Oh boy, I knew that statement would draw a crowd.

What do you mean Nick?.... Is that statement untrue? Am I confused on the inverter/charger operation??  Please enlighten me.. publicly or privately.

Ken

So I bought a foot operated momentary 'on' single pole single throw switch at the rally this last February.  I forgot to get instructions for it's installation.

Thought 'oh I'll just have to parallel these two wires to the two on the panel mounted switch and away I go' ...... only problem is the panel mounted switch has 8 wires to it.  At least two are from the panel light system to light the switch when the lights are on, but after that it gets complicated....

They are labeled:

pin: 7- 110K return  pin: 8-109 panel lights  pin: 9- 110J return  pin: 10- 105C EXH BRK VIM (maybe indication light that it is on??)

pin 5 - 111C  return   pin: 6  106 ENG BRK  on/off      pin: 2- 104 EXH BRK FSE    pin: 3  105A  EXH BRK VIM     Pins 5 to 6 and pins 2 to 3 seem to actually be the "switch"..

Connector sequence is:

10-3-2-1-8

 9-6-5-4-7   

Anybody have a schematic or have a "plan" to make this SPDT switch activate the EXH BRK system?  (2003 HR Endeavor, 8.3 Cummins 3000 Allison tranny)

Thanks,

Ken

17 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

13 hours ago, Jim Byrd said:

I did install an ACR in my 04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor because the factory wiring didn't provide charging of the house batteries with the chassis alternator when driving down the road.

FWIW on our 03 HR Endeavor the house batteries will charge driving down the road if we switch on the inverter

Bob,

How does switching on the inverter while driving (running the 'drive engine' only) work?  My 03 HR Endeavor inverter uses chassis battery power to create 120vac to run (for example) my all electric Frig.  I use my ML-ACR to 'join' the house and chassis batteries together while driving to keep the inverter from draining my house batteries by charging both from my alternator.

My inverter only charges my house batteries (and chassis batteries because of my ML-ACR) when I'm running my generator or connected to shore power.....otherwise the inverter only 'uses' battery power.

Ken

Ted, my thinking here is that if you are not charging your house (or any other battery (chassis)) on shore or Generator...

Both of those are 120vac power sources that power your inverter which charges the battery/batteries..... the  ML-ACR controls where that 12vdc power goes.... house or chassis or both.... 

Sounds like you might have an inverter problem...... 

I'm a big fan of the BlueSea ML-ACR, install it if you have one, buy one if you do not.... it just might not fix your current problem....

Actually Jim the motors with the 'centrifugal switch' have 'start windings' that are energized by the switch (along with the capacitor) to get it running, then drops out of the circuit in the 'run' mode... quite common.... my shop air compressor has failed in this manner... 

Good that you brought this to our attention.

Ken

Nice work Ivan!

I have been wondering what was inside one of those "bags".... especially like seeing that there is an internal "stop" that 'limits' the total collapse.....

Wonder if injecting "Slime" into one with a pin hole would seal it up...??

Ken

I could never find one (that I was sure could carry 7.5 amps) on my 2003 HR Endeavor.  I took power from an unused fuse position in the front power bay, routed a 16 ga wire thru the (convenient) tube (3" conduit near the frame rail) that runs front to back, and installed a satellite fuse block near the batteries that I powered the FASS pump from.  Works great and provides ignition key on power for other items.

p.s. while I was fishing that wire thru the conduit I pulled and left some "weedeater" plastic cord there too... for another day...

Ken

On 5/22/2022 at 7:40 AM, flyinghi said:

So yes the tech said he confirmed the high reading with a laser gun from under the coach. (His comment "I have never seen a trans get this hot in my career" -20 years at Allison) They supposedly have the coach up on a lift.  I have thought about an external cooler and have seen some of the posts here, but my regular mechanic poo-pooed the idea, thinking more of the issue was the location of the sensors. Still an external cooler might be the easiest and most cost effective option before replacing the trans. I have never felt the trans slip, lock up or misbehave. I plan to show up tomorrow at the Allison dealer before 2nd shift and talk to a supervisor and the mechanic. 

So you have a working transmission giving you no problems except it is running 'hot'....  I would suggest you quit wasting money on "troubleshooting" and just add an external additional trans cooler like Jim did, and drive on down the road.   Even if that does not "save" this transmission, it will be good for your next one.

I would not replace a transmission for 'running hot' and no other problems!  Why would any mechanic poo-poo adding a cooler??

JMHO

Ken

Sorry Jim,   

My latches must be different from yours... I do remember having to slightly modify the plastic latch but it was easy, plastic, and not very difficult to install.

Ken