Robert92867

Looks like everything is nicely labeled. Getting back to heated air... starting to make sense. It is critical to the operation of the air brakes to be supplied with dry air, to keep the brake actuators from locking up in a freeze.

Zion is a magical place. I like the less traveled canyons.

I like the idea of a bypass switch. Since it would be in the battery compartment, I'm thinking small marine weatherproof disconnect (on-off). I scoured my schmatics for a key-on circuit. Nothing back there unless I cut into the circuit going to the ECM, or run another conductor from the front run bay. So I'm going to stick with the interposing relay fired off the ECM and use a hot battery circuit for power supply. I've stripped out the old lift pump and the engine mounted filter. Nice to be able to access that area easily now that its wide open. Does your HR have the ISC 8.3? If you have an Air Dryer, I suspect you have air brakes. I wasn't aware the Air Dryer needed power.

Sorry gents, I beg to differ. The brass flange elbow fitting supplied by FASS is only catching 3 threads, and they look ragged, like they were cut on a Harbor Freight machine tool. I notice the fitting pictured in Rik's post has what appears to be a Parker steel jic flange elbow fitting, higher quality machined threads. As for the OEM check valve, the purpose was to prevent fuel from siphoning back, not because the OEM Carter lift pump wasn't self priming. I do understand the purpose of a interposing relay. 27 years as a heavy industry electrician in the IBEW. You guys have CAPS injection pumps. The lowly ISB 5.9 has a VP-44 injection pump (a real piece of shyte) that operates differently. The lift pump runs all the time the engine is running. The lift pump is a 12DC output direct from the ECM. The stock lift pump draws less than 4 amps no load, the Fass pump (mine is only 100 gph) draws 6 amps no load, figuring 150 % inrush current, the FASS could blow the ECM fuse. So the interposing relay will be fired by the ECM, enabling a separate Key-On circuit.

With all the breakdowns that can happen to an "antique" RV, and the stress of having said RV towed to a questionable shop for repairs that might take months. Calling for roadside tire assistance is very low on my priority list. Changing a 22.5 or 24 tire, is actually easier than a car tire.

Not impressed with FASS...

Did you get your jeep sorted out?

Driving these antique, out of production RV's gets more challenging every year. I'm not going to wish you good luck, as luck apparently is not working for you this trip. Could have been worse... The original built-in-the-radiator trans cooler would have wiped out the Allison.

Check your pipe thread size, needs to be 1/8" - 27 npt to match. Otherwise the 200 Centigrade max temp range and voltage and terminal look like a match.

With the Eclipse occuring in your area on the 14th it is going to be difficult to find a reservation anywhere near the zone. I had some Eclipse contingency reservations made.. Richfield KOA, Arches NP, that I made months ago, but I had to cancel. Arches (Devils Garden Campground) is a tough nut to crack, If I get my own mechanical issues straightened out, I will be there the last week of Oct. Good luck with your Jeep!

Extracting a pipe plug, using a cool trick i read about back in July in one of Brad H. posts...

No help on the propane smell, but I looked at the pic of your rig in your profile. That's cool how the condensate on the outside highlights all the structural elements hidden behind the walls.

Have your batteries load tested. Check resistance (ohms) between +battery and starter. Check resistance from -battery to engine block. Sorry to hear about your health conditions.

Slow but steady progress.

Nice flat tow bar. Good idea raising the hitch, added bonus: no bottoming out. That Ready brake unit I use also. Cable direct to the brake pedal from the inertia lever works ok.

The cylinder head arrived from Fleece. Very nice quality, had I not measured .004 milled from the combustion surface, I would have believed it to be a new casting. Assembly ongoing, slowly. I noticed this morning yet another subtle difference in quality from original 2001 Genuine Cummins and the 2019 "Genuine Cummins" (made in China) crossover tubes.

That would be for the O2 detector

When I said "radiator support cracked" I meant the angle iron Monaco welded to the frame to support the rod tied to the fan shroud. A zero penetration vertical pass.. I can't blame this on CGJ

I wonder why they .jpg resolution suffers so badly, I will try a .tiff CUMMINS ISB WIRING DIAGRAM lower 1.tiff

IRV2 and Lazy Days say 05 Roadmaster Chassis has a 50 degree wheel cut

https://cgj.com/product-category/oil-coolers/motorhome-oil-cooler/monaco-motorhome-oil-cooler Their website gives detail dimensional data for an assortment of Monaco Motorhomes. I have bought radiators from them twice. The first one failed because a radiator support weld broke, and succumbed to vibration. The second one is 8 years old and still going strong. So I give them a good rating.

The new style split-end snap ring made all the difference. The shaft dropped in with gentle finger pressure. Tolerances are tight, bearings are new. MMM-MMM GOOD.MOV

Nice work. Better build quality than a lot of Monacos work. I used that same construction method (plywood table surface surrounded by hardwood trim) to build a work bench. I abuse that surface considerably, and I am surprised how well it holds up, despite the paper thin veneer. Somehow the laquer seems to make it more durable. The #2 awg looks like some serious electrical distribution. That compressor in the top pic is the factory rear ac compressor? 12 volt powered off the alternator? If so, it must be a pretty large current draw.

My $100 Genuine Holset Rebuild Kit (made in China) arrived. Install went well up until tapping the shaft back in with a rubber hammer. d*** if I didn't bend the Piston Seal Ring. I searched Amazon, and sure enough, individual seal rings are available and fairly inexpensive. I ordered 2 sets, just in case.