Idoc57
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Posts posted by Idoc57
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1 hour ago, jacwjames said:
So did you just swap the wires on the board??
Yes Jim, I simply moved the pair that was on the position #1 terminals to the corresponding position #2 terminals and those that were on #2 to #1. All I needed was a good relay to run my A/C power through. Since I don't use the dedicated circuit for the Washer/Dryer, it doesn't make any difference if that circuit doesn't work.
Thanks,Carey
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5 hours ago, myrontruex said:
Did you take a voltmeter up there? You may not have 110 volts. The relays are likely run by 12 volts.
If you do not find 110 volts inside the AC unit you will have to go to your ac breaker panel and see if there is actually power coming out of the assigned breaker. And if it is there, move on through the load shedding relay board.
If it is a load shedding issue you can temporarily bypass that one control relay.
Of course I'm typing away without knowing what rig you have but this might help.
OK, 2006 Cayman it appears and it most likely has a load shedding device.
As Reese Witherspoon said in the movie "Legally Blonde" ....."WE DID IT!!!!"
Thanks to everyone for your help, but a special HUGE THANK YOU to Myron for being spot-on with the solution! I would not have even thought about the Intellitec Load Shedding Device as being the problem! Myron, I thank you, MY WIFE THANKS YOU, and my two grandsons thank you. You are THE MAN! Our trip will be SO much more enjoyable now!
One more testimonial as to how great this forum is! You guys sharing your time and knowledge with the rest of us is appreciated SO much!
Carey (aka "one happy camper")
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4 hours ago, myrontruex said:
Did you take a voltmeter up there? You may not have 110 volts. The relays are likely run by 12 volts.
If you do not find 110 volts inside the AC unit you will have to go to your ac breaker panel and see if there is actually power coming out of the assigned breaker. And if it is there, move on through the load shedding relay board.
If it is a load shedding issue you can temporarily bypass that one control relay.
Of course I'm typing away without knowing what rig you have but this might help.
OK, 2006 Cayman it appears and it most likely has a load shedding device.
Okay, I did some more thinking (that could be dangerous! 😉) about my post above. I might be over-thinking this. If I simply switch the two wires on the #1 terminals to the #2 terminals, and vice versa, I really haven't changed the amount of current draw off either side of the main breaker, have I? All I would be doing is using a different set of relay an C.B. The only thing that would be different is that the front A/C would shed off before the W/D, which wouldn't make any difference since I don't have a W/D.
Please confirm what I just typed above. I think my mind is getting "mushy"!
Thank you so much!
Carey
5 minutes ago, jacwjames said:As a temporary fix you could bypass the Intellitec all together and wire direct. Just the two wires and wire nut them together.
You would just have to manage the load yourself. I did this when my board failed.
Jim, please tell me what you think about my last post. Does it make sense to you? If it does, then I can maintain the load management.
Thanks,
Carey
My board is not bad, it is just the #1 relay. The rest of them work fine as far as I can see.
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2 hours ago, myrontruex said:
Did you take a voltmeter up there? You may not have 110 volts. The relays are likely run by 12 volts.
If you do not find 110 volts inside the AC unit you will have to go to your ac breaker panel and see if there is actually power coming out of the assigned breaker. And if it is there, move on through the load shedding relay board.
If it is a load shedding issue you can temporarily bypass that one control relay.
Of course I'm typing away without knowing what rig you have but this might help.
OK, 2006 Cayman it appears and it most likely has a load shedding device.
OK Myron, here are my findings:
1. No line voltage (120v) at the A/C unit
2. Front A/C breaker is good
3. When I check the voltage between neutral and each of the "RLY" (relay, I'm assuming) terminals and each of the "C.B." (assuming circuit breaker) terminals, all of the #2, #3 and #4 terminals (both RLY and C.B.) show 120v. When I check the #1 terminals with the 20 AMP Front A/C breaker ON, I get 120v at the C.B.1 terminal and 0.5v at the RLY 1 terminal. With the 20 AMP Front A/C breaker OFF, I get 41v at the C.B.1 terminal and the same 0.5v at the RLY 1 terminal.
So, I am very hopeful that with your EXCELLENT knowledge and MUCH appreciated help we may have found the problem. Now, if you would, please help me further by recommending the best way to get around this problem. NOTE: I do not nave a Washer/Dryer
My first thought was to simply switch the wires from the #2 (W/D) terminals to the #1 (Front A/C) terminals since I don't have the W/D and really never use that dedicated W/D receptacle. The only problem that I see with that is that looking at the 120v breakers is that it would cause both A/C's to draw off the same leg of the 50 amp main breaker. So, I see two options: 1) switch the #4 wires (water htr) with the #1 wires (frt A/C) and just use propane alone to heat water, or 2) see if there is enough wire to switch the positions of the water heater breaker and the W/D breaker thereby keeping the loads balanced (well, at least not having both A/C's on the same leg). Then I could just go back to switching the #1 and #2 terminal wires.
Please advise if you think this (option 2 above) would work or if you would recommend something else.
Thank you so much for your help!
Carey
1 hour ago, ward_l_johnson said:The “other small electrical device” pictured in the original post is a PTCR, positive temperature coefficient resistor. Its purpose is to very briefly (only a couple seconds) connect the compressor starting capacitor in parallel with the running capacitor. The PTCR will have a very small resistance before the A/C compressor is energized, but the resistance increases dramatically after only a second or two, effectively removing the compressor starting capacitor from the circuit. Since you installed it from a working A/C I wouldn’t expect it to be a cause of your issue.
Thank you, Ward
I had read something about a PTCR and I was wondering if that might be what that was. I noted that the one from the rear air unit had the blue wire on top and the red wire on the bottom. The one out of the front unit was opposite. So, I'm guessing that polarity is not a factor on the PTCR???
Thanks,
Carey
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Not familiar with Carrier AC units, what kind of controls do you have, is there a separate thermostat?? Is does is the display showing correctly???
Jim,
These units do not have a separate thermostat, so I'm guessing that it is built into the unit itself. You control it with a remote.
Thanks,
Carey
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41 minutes ago, myrontruex said:
Did you take a voltmeter up there? You may not have 110 volts. The relays are likely run by 12 volts.
If you do not find 110 volts inside the AC unit you will have to go to your ac breaker panel and see if there is actually power coming out of the assigned breaker. And if it is there, move on through the load shedding relay board.
If it is a load shedding issue you can temporarily bypass that one control relay.
Of course I'm typing away without knowing what rig you have but this might help.
OK, 2006 Cayman it appears and it most likely has a load shedding device.
Thank you Myron for responding. My plan for this morning was to do what you said and start at the breaker panel and then see if there was 115 volts at the unit itself. What I had not even thought about is the Intellitec load shedding device. If I have power at the A/C unit, that would indicate the the Intellitec is working, right? The only other draw that I have on is the fridge @ 5 amps. I will post my post my findings on the above in a little while.
Thank you for your help!
Carey
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Murphy's Law at work! We leave Monday morning with the Grandsons to go see the Ark and Creation Museum. I turned the front A/C on this morning to cool the coach down (rear was off) and about mid-day we lost power for about 2 seconds (literally). Off and right back on again. Went by to check some things on the motorhome and noticed that the A/C was not running. First checked the breaker in the bedroom, it was on. The A/C's are both Carrier Low profile units that operate with remotes. When I turn it on and switch modes I can hear the little relays closing, there is just no fan. I switched the main capacitor and another small electrical device (picture below) from the rear air into the front air. Didn't help at all. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, guys.
Carey
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Now that my grandsons are out of school for the summer, the soccer season is over, etc., they once again have time to print more parts. If anyone would still like to order parts, my son and daughter-in-law have set up an email address to contact them directly - 2b3dprints@gmail.com.CareyReplyForward
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Andrew, sorry it took me so long to respond to your question. I was out of the country for a week.
I did replace the hose from the coolant tank to the block. Mine had a hose with two layers of rubber sandwiching a steel coil. Here is a link to what I used:
It was kind of expensive, but since that is what was on there, I bit the bullet.
Carey
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22 hours ago, Agpopp said:
Exactly what I was thinking.
Great info. Lastly, did you do all of this through the floor or remove the rad?
I did some through the rear hatch under the bed, but most from under the coach. I would definitely NOT want to pull the radiator assembly.
Carey
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Andrew,
I took my old hoses off and took them with me. We looked through probably 50 hoses to match up the diameters and the bends. Yeah, a listing would have been nice, but that is a "pipe dream" (pardon the pun). It is not like asking for the upper and lower radiator hoses for a 2018 F-150. If memory serves me, there was a shorter hose that was on the driver's side that was almost straight, but had a slight offset. One end of one of those NAPA hoses has that slight offset and worked perfectly.
My hard piping was in great shape. My coach only had 18K miles at the time.
I don't think that I replaced the little bypass hoses. As for my heater hoses, they looked really good. I would have changed them out too but, when I looked at what a huge job that would have been, I decided to take my chances and just carry a few feet of heater hose, a couple of double ended barb fittings, and some good quality hose clamps. I figured that if I ever did spring a leak in one of the heater hoses, I could just cut the bad spot out and "patch" it with a piece of new hose. I know it would have been better to replace it all but, for now I just wasn't ready to tackle that one.
I flushed my cooling system with Evapo-rust Thermocure and distilled water. Drove the coach about 100 miles with that in it, then drained and did did 3 more complete flushes with distilled water. It did cost a little more using only distilled water to flush, but I just didn't want tap water in the system. I don't think you ever get it all out when you drain it. I pulled one of the hoses off of the trans oil cooler to drain. Don't forget to open your heater valve (full hot setting) when you drain, flush and refill.
Carey
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1 hour ago, Agpopp said:
I have a question of where one would source the hard pipes used in the cooling system. The only corroded piece on the whole coach is this hard pipe to the upper rad that has a fitting on it. Im guessing thats a REV part?l
Looks like I should tackle all these rubber hoses before too long as well. 2006 with 43k and all seem to be original. Seems like they are all short sections of straight hose or some 90s I could match up at NAPA. Then there are one or 2 small bypass hoses and the coolant jug lines and some tiny sections around the alternator, and of course the elephant in the room...the 40 feet of heater hose.
Any thoughts on the replacement?
Hey Andrew and Brad,
I might be able to save you a little leg work on the radiator hoses and the belts. I just replaced all of them on my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD last year. (300 ISB) I have the Modine transmission oil cooler that looks like a big box with openings on the ends. I was able to replace all of the hoses with just these 3 hoses from NAPA. Seems like I had to cut at least 2 of them to make all of the (5?) hoses that I needed. They worked out perfectly. I don't think that I even had to use the little, short, straight hose. Just in case you are replacing belts as well, here's what worked out well for my main Serpentine and A/C belts. By the way, if you can get the A/C belt over that big, honkin" fan blade, you are a better man than I am! I removed the 4 bolts that hold the fan on and slipped the belt in between the fan and pulley. Good Luck! I hope this helps you guys.
Carey
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1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:
Don’t swear the duplicates. As long as it was not intentional. LOL. Fixed. Open the Battery 101. Section 8 details it. You need to think watts of load. STP is about 30 DC. Anything higher is NOT representative of a normal MH boondocking load.
50% SOC is loosely defined as 12.0 aa VDC. Your remote (based on Magnum experience) will read lower compared to the real voltage at the battery. Typically up to 0.15 VDC. It is important to understand that. I check the batteries as a bank with a VOM. TECHNICALLY, but it troubles some folks, you could go to 11.8 or 11.9. Now if you paid attention, that is lower than the recommended 50% SOC. What you are reading at the bank is the voltage UNDER load. Remove the load and disconnect the 2 battery to battery jumpers….ain’t no current flowing. Wait maybe 10 minutes. The voltage will stabilize and be higher…maybe 0.15. So when you drop the measured load voltage, then the recovery or at rest voltage will be higher. Folks read 12.0 as 50% SOC. THAT IS THE AT REST OR STABILIZED VOLTAGE….or the voltage you read to determine SOC. A TRUE LOAD VOLTAGE WILL BE LOWER. Wait an hour after you see float charge….then repeat drawdown, timing not critical
You can check SG anytime. Depends on how much time you spent in a college Lab. Lol. The true SOC is measured after each recharge cycle. You need a load to knock off the surface charge. So, when fully recharged and float remote says float and just a few amps, kill the shore/Genny. Then put on the load for few minutes. Pull load. Then pull jumpers. Wait 5 minutes or so. Read the individual batteries. Their VDC can be used to determine SOC from chart. Assuming the SG is close on all 3 cells, average and that will be SOC. SHOULD be the same. You need a good bulb hydrometer with a ZERO mark or calibration mark for pure DISTILLED WATER. OR a refractometer one with a calibration screw. You THOROUGHLY coat the glass plate and calibrate. Both can be had for $20 on Amazon.
REMEMBER…..you should not be refilling the cells after the first cycle. A good battery will not lose that much electrolyte, properly filled in one cycle.
You do NOT BUY ELECTROLYTE. The battery cell has a sulfuric acid mixture. The electrolyte is conductive and the cells are Galvanic. Google or wiki it. When you heat or recharge the battery, you “bubble” off O2 & H2. The H2 is very reactive and will explode. When you replenish a cell, you add PURE DISTILLED water. Pharmacy or supermarket carry’s Distilled Water for C-PAC machines and humidifier and such.
IF for some reason, you have a cell that is losing so much electrolyte that you have to refill after every cycle….problem. I refill prior to first run down. Then recharge and verify level has not changed significantly….then do the next rundown….
From a chemical standpoint you need to understand this. The battery manufacturer mixes Sulfuric Acid & Distilled water to get a certain SG. They then fill each cell to the prescribed point which is the midpoint between the TOP ot the plates and the bottom of the well. The SG is 1.277.
if you underfill…..as in let the level go below the fill line, you get a higher SG as the Acid content is higher. But add Distilled water and you dilute it. When you recharge you lose water….not the acid. So refill to the original manufacturer’s level and the SG SHOULD BE 1.277. As the cells degrade or are cooked higher, you eventually lose acid so the SG is lower….and a lower SG equates to a loss on SOC.
There will be a pop quiz….
Thanks Tom! I'll study real hard and be ready for the quiz in the morning! Seriously, thank you for taking the time to explain all that.
Carey
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12 hours ago, Stephen Walsh said:
Location to add fluid? And what type of fluid?
Hi Stephen,
In my 2006 Cayman 37 PBD, the reservoir for the hydraulic jacks is located in the generator access on the passenger side. It is attached to the pump and valve assembly. I use Dexron III in mine. Mine drove me nuts on a return trip from New Mexico and Colorado last year. I stopped and added fluid up to the "mark" on the dipstick (attached to cap). The line on the dipstick looked like someone scratched it into the dipstick. It continued beeping on and off until I got tired of it and just pulled the fuse. When I got home, I couldn't find a reason for the beeping, so I just added more fluid, and it stopped beeping.
Carey
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2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
The Battery Miser caps are $4.35 or $62. The real question is how long it takes to remove a cap and check SG and then replace the cap so you can recharge. Typically you do 3 draw downs to fully exercise them. You need to get the SG consistent in each battery and that takes about 3 cycles. When that happens, the plates are more porous and you get peak state of charge. Just letting them sit in storage and being on float charge and not properly discharged will start to reduce their SOC. Then, as time goes on, since you don’t follow the exercise protocols, they will no longer charge back up to 100%. I know my 5 YO Trojans are still at 100§ after the 3 cycle exercise. Another member is going on 8 years or so.
The question is….the tine to shut off, remove the watering lines and then test and exercise if the issue you could shortcut the process and test the SG and record it then put the system back together and run through the 3 discharge cycles and do a final test. But if you look at the variation between the cells in one battery, each time you recharge, then many times yo don’t need the 3rd cycle. By using the Battery Miser caps you lose less electrolyte during the 4 - 6 month period. As I said, less than a fluid Oz is needed to replenish. Then I check, but rarely add during or after the exercising. The Battery Miser caps have a locking flip over top, so when you check the level, you don’t remove them,
The newer visible line caps help establish exactly “filled properly”. I used a 3/8 dowel and then marked the fill to line. I noyched or cut a small groove and that is used like the fill range on an engine oil dipstick. So I never unscrew the caps.
Whether one upgrades and uses the watering system or switches to the Battery Miser cap, the batteries are going to be safe and stable. The Battery Monitor caps, like the auto watering system, prevents losses. I suspect the watering is sealed.
Sonit is then a question of which system or technique will take the longest time during the exercising. If you depend on the watering system to always maintain the electrolyte and don’t exercise, you will get far less life as the natural degradation of the cells or the life is accelerated by not following Trojan’s recommendations.
Whatever works best, but the key is exercising. Don’t do….get less life…
Hi Tom,
I have a few questions regarding your post above:
1. When you talk about 3 draw downs, I am assuming that you start with fully charged batteries and then apply a load to bring the battery voltage down. Do you have a recommendation of how much load (amps) to apply?
2. At what voltage do you remove the load and do you allow the batteries to rest before recharging? How many amps of charging current do you recommend to bring them back up? I am assuming that you perform the discharge/recharge cycle two more times. Any rest time between the 3 discharge/recharge cycles?
3. When is the best time to check the SG and add more electrolyte if needed? Is one battery electrolyte just as good as the next?
4. When you test the SG, do you draw the electrolyte up and squirt it back into the cell 2 or 3 times to mix it up before you take a reading?
Thank you,
Carey
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53 minutes ago, Ivylog said:
On a cool, damp morning you should be able to see where’s the bracing
Andrew,
I just happen to have a picture of what Dick is referring to. Thought it might help.
Carey
Sorry, the two pictures above are identical. The first time that I uploaded it, I got a notice saying that the upload failed, so I uploaded it again. Apparently, the first attempt did work. 😕 Probably my "less than ideal" internet service out in the boonies.
Carey
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Hi Bill, I have 2 questions.
1. Are you currently getting a reading on your coolant/engine temp gauge on the dash?
2. Is there a similar looking sensor (with wires attached) within 4-5 inches of your thermostat housing?
If the answer is "yes" to either question, I would be inclined to go with what Gary said above.
Just my "2 cents"
Carey
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Hi Adam,
I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman 37 PBD, which I believe is the sister coach to your HR Neptune. The only thing is, that your coach being 4 year models newer, the settings could be different. So, take this data as reference only. My chassis is also the RR4R and I recently installed the Source Engineering Ride Kit and Trailing Arms. Everything fit perfectly and the ride heights were correct with no adjustment. I really don't think that the air bags are going to control the ride height, as that is taken care of by the air actuator valve adjustment.
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13 hours ago, Floyd4949 said:
Hi Carey,
Thanks again to you and your family for taking on this obviously popular project.
Just out of curiosity... how many covers did the kids print and ship?
How about a "guess how many beans in the jar" contest ($5 per guess??) as an addition to their fundraising efforts.
You could offer the winner a hearty thanks and a virtual "high five". I think it would be fun!!!
I'll watch for your reply and jump in @ Venmo if you wanna do it.Regards, John
John, I appreciate the offer to do the "contest", however I think we would rather just take the opportunity to thank everyone who ordered covers and had a part in making this little business venture successful, while fulfilling a need for our fellow Monacoers. I really don't know the exact number of covers that were sent out, but It was in the hundreds. I would also like to express a special "Thank You" to the moderators of this great forum for allowing the grandsons the chance to learn some valuable lessons about running a business.
Thank you all,
Carey
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9 hours ago, planodp said:
Cary, I also want to get on the waiting list. just sent you a PM.
Thanks Duey.
Duey, I am sorry, but I was informed this morning that they are not taking any more new orders.
Carey
6 hours ago, YukonMonaco said:Carey I would like to get 15 right and 15 left in black for my 2006 Signature Series , please let me know how to proceed please , do i need to send measurements the of existing ones
Kudos to your grand kids for taking this on, its really appreciated , thanks to you as well !
John
John, I am sorry, but I was informed this morning that they are not taking any more new orders.
Carey
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7 hours ago, LakeBob said:
Cary,
I would like 20 of each side. Did you see my PM?
Thanks,
Bob
Hi Bob, I sent you a PM.
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2 hours ago, gjh2916 said:
I am also still interested in purchasing
Gary, check your Personal Messages.
Carey
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15 hours ago, Jeff01 said:
I am still interested in them.
Jeff, can you send me a PM with your mailing address and how many covers you want for each side?
Thanks,
Carey
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7 hours ago, jimbob said:
Hi Carey,
The covers have now been installed and they look and feel great. We are headed to Oklahoma this weekend and I am confident that we are now ready for the rain and wind.
FYI...My 80 year old fingers don't quite work like they did 40 years ago, so I put the covers in as you described and then gently tapped the beveled edge with a very small rubber mallet. They popped right in place...the fit is fantastic. My only suggestion would be to increase the price. They are worth so much more than the boys are charging.
Please pass on my THANKS to Henry and Levi!
There is still hope for the younger generation when folks like you are guiding them along.
Jim
Jim, I'm glad that you were able to surmount the issue of 80 year old fingers with a touch of "brains over brawn". Thank you for posting your thoughts on the forum. Henry and Levi will now get the chance to read your kind words for themselves.
I hope that you have a safe trip to Oklahoma this weekend and that all goes well.
Carey
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5 hours ago, vito.a said:
What length is your Dynasty?
Our 42' Signature should be similar. It's an "S" series chassis. RR designates rear radiator and you have a side radiator.
The drive axle brakes are disc.
Vito, I was under the impression that the RR stood for "Raised Rail" and the 10 in this case indicated how many air springs (bags) the chassis had. My Cayman has the RR4 chassis and only has 4 air springs, and it seems that I remember reading that there was also an R4 chassis, in which I would assume that the main structural rails that run front to back were not set as high in the construction of that chassis. I'm certainly no expert in this topic, but I would like to know if my assumption is correct.
Thanks,
Carey
HELP! Front A/C quit working today
in AC, Heating, and Cooling
Posted
Myron,
That photo was taken today and yes I am on 30 amp service. Once I switched the wires as mentioned in the post above, the Front A/C worked great! We were so excited that we will have both A/C's working for our trip tomorrow. You did lead me down a path alright, ....and it was the perfect path to fix the problem. The thought of checking the Intellitec had not even occurred to me, so Thank You for educating me on how the load shedding works. I may replace the board when I get back if they are available, but for this trip it looks like our problem is solved thanks to you.
Carey