Idoc57

I get it!  With the price of tires these days, who wants to unnecessarily turn their wheel lock to lock several times and scrub off all of that precious rubber?  😉

Seriously, I understand what you are saying and the reasons why you recommended letting the air purge out.  Thanks again for your advice.

Carey

Now, on to the next question!  

1 minute ago, Harvey Babb said:

Let the engine idle for a few minutes before moving the steering wheel to allow air to be purged. If you move the wheel too soon you could get air into the steering actuator and it will take a while to get it back out.

I am assuming you mean after I put the new filter in.  I should start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes to displace any air that might be trapped in the new filter.

Thank you both for your help!

Carey

Hey Guys, I'm getting ready to replace the filter in my Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir.  Once I remove the bolt, cover, spring and washer, can I simply lift the old filter out of the canister and gently place the new one in its place without removing any of the Dex III fluid?  This is on my 2006 Cayman PBD, 300 ISB.  

Thanks,

Carey

Fred, you might give Jim Walls a call at Source Engineering.  458-207-9442.  He is very knowledgeable about air bags, and most things Monaco.

Carey

12 hours ago, pulsarjab said:

For 10 years I did everything I could to keep the Norcold working, replacing fans, control cards, sensors, ice makers and heaters. That is after the original owner had replaced the cooling unit. I finally found a $600 Frigidaire refrigerator that would fit in the same spot, above the furnace that sits under the Norcold. I removed the doors on the Norcold, and with the help of three friends, we lifted it out through the emergency exit window. The Frigidaire came in the same window. Total process took about an hour. No modification of cabinets and it holds more food, freezes fantastic, and only pulls one half amp, runs perfect on the four house batteries, and weights a lot less than the Norcold. Now, I sleep at night without that worry and if it quits, I will go to Home Depot and buy another one.

I live close to Colaws. a large RV salvage business. Seeing all of the burned out motor homes gave me night mares, so that was added incentive to make the move. I evaluated going with the compressor cooling unit, thought about it for several years. but I was tired of rebuilding the Norcold and waiting for something else to fail. Every time I walk pass the Frigidaire or open it for a cold drink, or see the wife standing there with door wide open, looking for something, I just smile.

Greg

2000 Diplomat

 

 

 

 

Greg, could you please tell us what the Frigidaire model number is at Home Depot?

Thanks, 

Carey

Check with Farm Bureau insurance. I think ours runs around 750 a year for full coverage.  We are not full time.

Carey

15 hours ago, Elizlampe said:

I hope I can replace my engine fan myself. Need video or technical guidance. 2000 315 do cummins. 

Does your 2000 Diplomat have rear radiator/CAC?  Do you have access through a hatch under the bed (or in the bedroom) to the area above the engine pulleys/belts?  

Carey

Hi Brad,

Sorry for taking so long to reply.  I just came across your post late yesterday evening.  I can't promise you that I have the answer to your dilemma, however, I can tell you that I had EXACTLY the same problem with my '06 Cayman when I purchased it last year.  I could feel a decent amount of warm air coming out of the register under the toe kick of the kitchen cabinet, but almost nothing out of any of the floor vents.  I tried running 3' long fiberglass rods through the floor ducts as much as possible, putting suction on the ducts with a vacuum cleaner, but no luck.  Almost by accident, I noticed that there was a LOT of warm air coming out of the furnace access door outside the coach.  I pulled the metal intake grill off inside and did a little inspection of the blower.  At first everything looked OK, but I soon realized that someone had used that shiny "metal" duct tape to seal the 90 degree sheet metal duct to the floor.  The problem was that there was a 1/2" gap between the sheet metal duct and the floor and they only sealed the front and sides, so all across the back side (where you couldn't see) there was a 1/2" by about 14" gap.  Almost all the hot air was blowing out the back side and out the side of the coach rather than down into the floor vent intake!  I made a 1/2" thick spacer to fill the gap and fastened it in place so that there was nowhere for the hot air to go but down into the floor duct system.  Amazing!  All the floor ducts have a good flow of warm air coming out of them now.  Whoever the "genius" was that only sealed 3 of the 4 sides of the 1/2" gap had also installed the 90 degree sheet metal duct backwards!  I don't know if it came from Monaco that way or if maybe the furnace was replaced at some point.  Either way there's never a good excuse for shoddy work.  I hope this helps you Brad.  Good Luck!

Carey

I just replaced all of my hoses about 6 months ago on the exact same coach as yours. For the hose you're referring to I bought an expensive hose made by Trident (wet exhaust) which has a wire reinforcement that spirals all the way through the hose. I was told by a man who worked for Monaco for many years that the metal spiral through the hose is not necessary, in fact he said it would be better not to have it because it tends to cause leaks where the hose clamps tighten up. I think any good quality hose like Gates with the 1 1/4" ID and  1 1/2" OD, if that's what your measurements show, should be sufficient.  

Carey

Bigmoe just posted a complete flat tow set up with RVi3 brake and all the "trimmings" plus a Roadmaster Nighthawk towbar for $1500.00 on Monday at 09:45 AM in Parts, Components and Accessories.  This is a great deal on what looks to me to be some top of the line gear.  You might want to check it out.

Carey

Ted, my 2006 Cayman has the same gauge and it drove me nuts when I first got it.  It ran right up to the high mark of what I would call the "normal running range" and it would stay right there.  I put in a new Cummins 190 degree thermostat---no change.  Changed out the coolant temperature sending unit---no change.  Did a very thorough cleaning of the radiator and CAC---no change!  On the last test run I decided to stop at a local diesel mechanic's shop and ask him to hook up his computer to my engine and tell me just how "hot" I was actually running.  It was a hot Texas day.  He said "Its perfect, 187 degrees".  I couldn't believe it, but there it was on his fancy, high-dollar computer!  I went out and bought a Scan Gauge D, hooked it up and sure enough it read 188 to 191 degrees running on flat road.  Going up a hill it would climb 4 or 5 degrees and taper back off on the downhill.  Perfect!

Carey

2006 Cayman 5.9 ISB

Have you checked the u-joints on both ends of the driveshaft?  They sometimes get overlooked when greasing the chassis.  Some of them have 2 zerks, so be sure to grease both if your u-joints have 2.  If they haven't been maintained regularly, the grease might have gotten hard and you might only be getting fresh grease into one or two of the 4 cups.  In that case, I would recommend removing  the, driveshaft and u-joints.  Take them apart and thoroughly clean them before filling them with fresh grease.  Be careful not to lose any of the needle bearings.  Of course you could just buy two new ones and install them.

Carey

Jim, I know that you have already ordered new fixtures, but for the benefit of others who might just want to retro fit the incandescent bulbs with LED's here is what I used in my 2006 Cayman.  I also bought these from M4products.com

Carey

Here you go!  This is a good one.  I have a number of these and they work great.  Regularly $63, on sale now at Northern Tool for $30.  Merry Christmas early!

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201

Not that you don't already have enough evidence that battery maintainers are great, but here's one more testimony for good measure.  I have had extremely good luck with the Battery Minder products for the last 20 years.  My 2002 Goldwing factory Yuasa battery lasted 2 months shy of 10 years.  The next one lasted a little over 8 years and would have have gone longer if I had not blown a fuse and not realized it for a long time.  As soon as I get home from a ride, I plug it in.  I have them on my boat, Sea-doos, side-by-side and lawnmower.  Try using one, you won't be sorry.

Carey

I had the same problem with one of my side cameras.  Just like Roy said above, I took the connector apart, cleaned it and sprayed a little Corrosion-X on both sides of the connector.  Problem solved.  While on the topic of cameras (particularly side cameras) I had a very hard deposit on the inside of the lens which was degrading the image of one of my side cameras.  I tried to clean it off, but it just wouldn't come off.  As a last resort, I tried polishing it off with my work bench buffer.  I got it off, but it left some optical distortions in the glass.  I didn't like that, so I got online and did some searching.  I found that you can buy flat watch crystals in many different sizes on Amazon for just a few bucks.  Mine were 36mm.  Got 10 of them for about $8.  It worked beautifully, and I've got extras to share with a fellow RV'er if I ever come across someone with the same problem!

Carey

I deliberated over the same issue for the filters on my '06 Cayman 300 horsepower ISB. Check your manual carefully you may find that it has a typographical error.  One place it says  S3201P and another place it says 53201P. I think it is actually an S instead of a 5 on the first digit.

If I am in line for your generous offer, please take my name off the list and let the next guy (I think cbr046) have them.  

Thanks,

Carey

Yes, I was just getting ready to replace mine.  That would be great!  Thank you!  Can I send you the money for shipping via Paypal?

Thanks, Carey