weighman695

To clarify, the battery voltage was measured 11.75 Volts and can't start the engine. The chassis batteries was jump started using the house batteries. After 40 minutes of idling and after turning off the engine, the batteries are measured to be 12.57 Volts. The batteries were disconnected using battery disconnect switch. Next morning, the batteries are measured to be 12.20 Volts (again, measured when the engine was off). Newbie question, how do you "Check the voltage on each side of that solenoid - it should be the same". Where to I put the negative and positive probe when measuring?

My understanding is that the chassis batteries are being charged while on shore power. Is my understanding correct. I would like to know also why the battery was discharged if the batteries are being charged while the coach is on shore power so I can fix the issue. If the problem is the solenoid, then I have to replace the solenoid. If the problem is something else, then I have to take action to resolve the issue. Right now, I have no idea what the problem is. Thank you for your help. I have just asked my DW to press and hold the battery boost while I am listening to the sound of the solenoid. I heard one click when my wife pressed and held the switch by approximately 5 seconds. I also noticed that the solenoid was warm to the touch when the batteries are connected to the coach. But when I disconnected the batteries using the battery disconnect, the solenoid feels cold. What does that one click indicates? Thanks...

I have not tried that yet. My battery boost switch is in my dashboard, so I have to as DW to listen. Currently, the engine can start using the chassis batteries since it was charged by the alternator. Can I still use the battery boost even though the batteries are charged?

Hello Everyone, I am on a full hook-up in a campground here in Las Vegas. Yesterday, I tried to start my coach engine. The engine was not able to run. I checked on my chassis batteries (two Interstate 31-MHD) voltage and it showed 11.75 Volts. I tried using the battery boost feature of my coach (pressing and holding the battery boost switch for at least 2 minutes as suggested on you tube) and switching the ignition to start. No go. I then used a cable booster to jump my chassis batteries using the house batteries. The engine started easily. I ran the engine on idle for about 40 minutes and checked the chassis batteries. Reading showed 12.57 Volts. This morning, I checked my chassis batteries voltage and it showed 12.20 Volts. I then ran again the engine using my chassis batteries (no cable booster cable attached to jump using house batteries. The engine started easily. I then ran the engine on idle for 20 minutes and measured the battery voltage. Meter showed 12.40V. I then disconnected my chassis batteries using the battery disconnect. I will measure the voltage again tomorrow to the voltage will drop substantially. My motorhome is a 2007 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ. Did somebody here in the forum experienced the above and what did you do to solve the issue? Thanks to everybody and Happy New Year!!!!

Ron, Is the $30 for the kit only? If it is, how much is the total cost of the oil test? Thanks...

Finally, I was able to drive around the coach for at lesst 11 miles and the ABS, ATC light went out. The light came out as soon as I left my camp site. Thank you very much to all who responded to my question regarding ABS/ATC indicator light. To clarify, the ABS/ATC light went off as soon as I left my camp site. Maybe about 50 feet from my camp site.

I just bought mine from Walmart recently. Clear porch light replacement. Good quality.

Mike, Do you have a picture of how the ABS sensors look like? Where can I find those?

Thank you very much for your responses. I will drive the coach around as suggested and see what happens. Joel, Where exactly can I find the control board with the red button switch? Is it the compartment where the fuses are, driver side, and can be accessed from outside of the coach?

I am sitting here in Tulsa, Oklahoma for the last three weeks. Before coming here to Tulsa, we were in Montrose, Colorado. We used Highway 50 coming down from Montrose descending between 6% to 9%. While sitting here in Tulsa, I am starting the engine for 20 minutes every week. Today, I started the engine and I noticed that the ABS indicator light is turned on. I did not see this indicator light before. We just had rain for the last 3 days here in Tulsa. What do you typically do, aside from calling a mechanic, to fix this issue. I am new in RVing and this is the first motorhome I owned and driven. If I have to call a mechanic to fix this, do you know somebody or a company here in Tulsa that I can call for help? I will appreciate your help on this. Thanks.....

Folks, I finally was able to fix my pocket door where the aluminum track came lose from the wooden frame. Thanks to all who contributed to the resolution of this issue. I used two-12" drill bit extension, an impact drill, metal drill bit, a right angle attachment, painters tape to hold the screw, #12 x 1" metal screw and lots of patience. The wooden valence is attached to the frame with brad nails. I removed them by using a flat pry bar.

I solved mine by having the mirrored closet sliding door near the breaker always open during transit while the AC is on. That keeps the breaker from overheating.

Paul, Attached is a photo of the roller. I can see the white plastic that looks like a lever. Do I just press the lever to rotate clockwise to release the roller from the track?

Paul, It looks like your door is similar to mine. How do you rotate the white plastic? Do you push it to rotate clockwise, or do I have to press the latch sidewise or upward or downward? I don't want to break the plastic piece. I am still trying to figure out how to remove the wooden valence without breaking it. It looks like the wooden valence is glued to the wooden door track frame. Larry H's maybe right that the back roller has come lose. Thanks..

Hello..I was pulling out my sliding privacy door and it won't go beyond about half of the track. I heard what seems to be a screw that fell-off when I tried to open the sliding door. Attached are pictures of the sliding door and the screw that I retrieved from the door track.Does anybody know how I can fix the door? Any guidance on how I can remove the door and replace it back to fix it.I have 2007 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ motorhome.Thanks

Thank you. I just called Cummins here in Ventura California and they have it ion stock in three days. Thanks again

These are the filters installed in the reservoir. I drained the hydraulic oil, but there is no part number identifying the filter. I brought it with me to Auto Zone. They can't figure out the part as well.

Thank you. Ill buy the Valvoline DEX/MERC fluid to be consistent with the manual.

Thank you for the information.... Where do you think I can find the part number for my oil cooler?

Thanks. I just researched RyderFleetProducts.com. It appears that they closed down back in 2020. Any other vendor you can recommend?

Thank you so much for these information. Do you happen to know the part number for the hydraulic oil cooler and where I can get it? Just in case the cooler cannot be repaired. Thanks..

Jeff, Please post the link from IRV2. I am also interested in doing the same as I have a Mofi4500. I would like to install two Yagi anntena. Thanks..

Hello,My Hydraulic Oil Cooler needs to be replaced or repaired due to hairline leak in one of the welds. I tried to fix the leak by using JB Weld, but leak came out again after traveling more than 3,000 miles. The welder is asking me to remove the cooler and bring it in to his shop. Since I am removing the cooler, I would like to change the three Drop In Hydraulic Oil Filter and the Dextron III ATF Fluid. I have been researching for the listed filter in the owner's manual CSG100P10A manufactured by MP Filtri. For some reasons, the search came up with a spin-on filters (as opposed to drop in). I can't find the drop in filter with the CSG100P10A part number.Did anybody in the group have similar issue as mine? If so, where did you purchase the drop in filters? Is there a replacement part number for this?Another question is Dextron III vs. Dextron VI. The manual recommends Dextron III. Can I use Dextron VI since it is available in my local Walmart.I attached pictures of the hydraulic oil cooler leak, reservoir and copy excerpt from the owner's manual.If the cooler cannot be repaired, does anybody know where I can buy the hydraulic oil cooler? There is no part number in the manual for the cooler and there is no markings in the cooler as well.I would appreciate any direction I could get from the group.Thanks....