Chuck H

Yep both tanks right next to each other. One tank had 2 drain valves the other just 1. Why only 1 on the other?

I have been doing various maintenance items and one item needing attention would be draining the air storage tanks. The owners manual gives no clue as to where they are. I have a clue that are just behind the front axle but just wanted to make sure. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Done , Thanks Scotty

If it's what I was looking for exactly 1yr ago on this forum then it might be Pac Brake part # C10833 Breather/Filter, Brass $7.57 + shipping $13.00= $20.57. Mine broke off so it just unscrewed off and new one screws right back in.

I ended up getting for the Primary a Napa #3783 and for the Secondary a Baldwin 1271. I couldn't find any of the Fleetguard filters locally. So I opted for the cross reference filters which is what the PO did as well. Thanks for your reply!

Perfect! Thanks Richard

Good to know. Hopefully I won't need that 10' cheater bar.

Advice taken! Thanks Frank

I thought I had read something either on this site or irv2 that it was recommended to change the whole housing out when it comes to the Air Dryer filter. I thought it had something to do with possibly alot of junk that could drop into the housing when swapping the filter out. Your thoughts? Thank you Tom for the informative advice.

Well after spending half the day looking for somebody who had the correct filters I changed engine fuel filters and genny filters. On to the next (air dryer) filter. Thanks to you all for the advice.

Do any of you with the 5.9ISB 300 by chance have the filter numbers you used? The filters I'm removing are a Napa #3783 Primary(w/plastic viewing bowl) and a Wix #533408 Secondary(w/sensor wire).

Sounds like a plan. Thanks Mark Do any of you by chance have the filter numbers you used? The filters I'm removing are a Napa #3783 Primary(w/plastic viewing bowl) and a Wix #533408 Secondary(w/sensor wire).

Sounds like a plan. Thanks Mark

I'm getting ready to change both primary & secondary fuel filters. Can I do both at the same time or do one and the key on cycling routine then do the second filter? Your help is much appreciated!

Ok thank you Tom for your help!

Am I also to assume the house batteries switch is the same specs. as the chassis switch?

No other wires. So that means non AFD?

I'll be switching to the Blue Seas switches as you all have suggested. So am I understanding this correctly that the 9003E switches will be ok to replace the original Marinco-Guest switches with?

So I tested across the cables and measured 0.1VDC. Switch seems to be operating smoothly now all by itself with no contact cleaner but will be doing that anyway. Will be using Blue Seas as spares anyway, just not real confident on the reliability of these 20yr. old switches. Thanks to you all for the education. You guys are wealth of information.

https://a.co/d/cHDpVAF. The amperage ratings of your Blue Sea switch are higher than the switch in the the link I posted which is like the one currently in our Coach. Is that going to hurt anything?

I will try to post a link but I have never done that before so bare with me. Thanks https://a.co/d/cHDpVAF I think I posted the link correctly. But here it is.

I'm wanting to change out the chassis battery disconnect switch in the batteries rrb because yesterday when I turned it on it felt a little harder to turn than usual. What I have found is on the back of that switch it gives the amp specs. which states that it is 345 amps INTERMITTENT. I found a new switch on Amazon that says it's 345 amps MOMENTARY. Can somebody please tell me if I can use this new switch and/or what the difference between the two are. Thanks in advance!

I totally understand. From what I have read you made the safest decision for everybody involved.

I just saw this post and was wanting to know if I should be concerned about the old 2-door N821 fridge in our 2002 Knight which is working quite well .

Update: A friend of mine told me he actually found by accident while at one of our local RV Dealers the exact wet bay heater that is in our Coach, so I purchased it($123 plus tax). I had to lengthen the wires on the new unit because they only stuck out about 2" from the back and had 1/4" spade connectors. I added 4" on each of the wires( white,red and black) using the same wire that came with the heater using 1/4" spade connectors to attach to the heater wires on the back. I then cut off the old snap connector and soldered it to the other end of the spade connectors and snapped it to the coach wiring. I tested the snap disc operation by setting it on an ice cube and everything works like it should except it seems the wiring is getting a little to hot for my liking. Is that normal? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!