Steve P

Maybe on the same GFCI circuit (controlled by one of the GFCI outlets - mine has one in the bathroom and another in the kitchen).  If one resets but keeps popping (disconnecting), then replace the outlet.

Also, using Search, specify files and search for:

2004 Endeavor wiring 

and you may find something to provide a clue.

My 2014 CR-V is front-wheel drive and the owners manual gives clear instructions on prep fo flat towing (somewhat different from above, but still simple enough a 5th grader could do it).

I found mine searching RV trader and it was ready to go with the baseplate installed and tow bar included.  Checked it out and good to go.  Probably 7,000 miles of flat towing and another 15,000 of driving, all is well.

Good luck in your search!

@Tom Cherry Wow!  I appreciate you so much.  I think you must be a walking parts catalog.  Or the world's top Googler!  In any case, thanks for coming thru again!!

Left side of the pic. It's cracked, connects by 2 wires (a blue and a white). Goes to a bundle and out of sight.  Thought I'd check here before making a 30 mile trip to the nearest dealer. 

@Dr4Film Richard - your use of a pressure washer without inducing leaks... how did you do that?  I wish you had done a video.  I thought the fins on the coil were also easily damaged, and that coil cleaner, a gentle brushing, and a low pressure rinse were the recommended norm.  Your thoughts and experience are always informative and I look forward to an update when you land in NH.  Thanks - Steve P 

I would very much like to have your spare 1" hose... mine has pinholes

Might the telltale sign of a previous AFO installation be an air line and fitting near the trailer hitch?

We found the user manual equally confusing. We adopted a common sense approach.

So we Level the coach first, then put out the slides to prevent twisting or stress. Sometimes we dump the air before we level. And sometimes we don't depending on the terrain. Our levelers are hydraulic by the way.

The thing that isn't shown clearly in the diagrams is that there are teeth or ears on the right end of the spring (#11) that engage with teeth or ears on the inside of the end cap (#6).  The ones on my end cap were bent over and causing the spring to slip and lose tension.  You could wind the spring the right number of turns, and install it in the end cap, and tighten everything down and it would seem just fine.  A couple of cycles of slide extension and retraction later, the spring end would have jumped the ears on the end cap and have lost tension to the point that it wouldn't retract the topper.  The crew at Talin RV in Brooksville (run by @throgmartin ) found this issue for me (great folks!) and put a new end cap on mine -- problem solved!

Does yours have the center cover support (#8 in Detail A)?  If so, that is another source of various issues (sagging, friction, bowing the roller tubes).  It will need to be shaped correctly and secured with a stainless cotter pin (not shown) to support correct functioning when the roller tube is longer than 12' because it then has two sections that are sleeved and riveted.  Carefree has a newer and better digram if you call them. 

Anyone have real world experience with effective chemicals that won't remove or soften paint?  I'm also about to embark on this project for all the film in mine. I know there is the Uglyshield solvent but I'm hoping for an off-the-shelf solution. 

8 minutes ago, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

I have a 2004 HR Endeavor 40PRT. Recently bought new topper fabric for my driver side slide out. I believe the C of Col slide mechanism is the SOKIII. Had someone put it on and woke up to the fabric flopping two weeks later. I was told after the fact the tension screw is stripped. I have searched to find videos of how to fix this.

 Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

I've had my toppers apart multiple times for cleaning and replaced the tension spring in one of them.  I don't recall a tension screw... I did have to replace an end cap that the teeth had bent and worn (the teeth engaging the roller tube gear).  Do you have a diagram of yours to help us provide further insight?

They may rattle just as bad in the end cap.  When working on the toppers, it's very handy... the threads keep me from accidently dropping the screws in the grass, gravel, or on the concrete, ehere they are certain to roll to the precise center of the coach.

IMHO - You don't need to use the pump if you are connected to an external water source (city water or campground or well), but a good water pressure regulator is a must.  Just don't buy the junky Camco one.  50lbs is a good setting.  The water pump is mainly for pumping from the water tank when traveling or boondocking.

18 hours ago, MJ.STIGER said:

With this feed back i have decided to order a new hinge. Yes costly. But going to pull the old one out and fix it up for a spare. Then this coach and its future owner will be in good shape for years to come.

I have a spare, purchased new from Veurinks, that I will never use.  I will sell it for a reasonable offer including shipping.  Send me a private message if interested.

@Gweedo This is on my to-do list (hose reel and macerator upgrade).  Could you take lots of pics of the disassembly process for use as a reference by me and others?  Mine looks like it will be tricky to get all the handles and switch covers and wires and other misc gear off to release the panel.  Thanks in advance! 

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My rig uses a Kysor Low Coolant alarm system.  So only one wire.  You should check you wiring diagram, it may be different. 

Wiring diagrams for the 2008 Knight are sort of a guess between 2007 and 2009 and similar Monaco & Holiday Rambler models.  The one I've looked at shows only one wire.  I didn't see a fuse in the diagram.  If I confirm the short I think I have, I'll bypass it with replacement wires.  On my list of to-do's...  wish me good hunting (luck is a lie we tell ourselves to justify false bravado and foolhardiness).

2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

You should be able to bypass (or trick) the coolant sensor into thinking there is coolant there to eliminate that as the cause.  In my case the sensor uses the coolant as a grounding mechanism, one wire sensor.  So I could just simply add a ground to the wire from the sensor and it would run the light off.

Do you know the codes you are getting for the Turbo.  If you have the codes you can get information from Cummins specific to your engine for troubleshooting.

Either way continue running with a warning light on isn't the optimal thing to do.

Don't want to hijack the thread, but my coolant sensor has a 3 prong plug. I'm not sure how many wires are actually connected. This continues to baffle me...

Also have the warning light.  Scanner connected to the multi-pin port by the steering column shows a "low coolant or sensor" issue.  You will need your results before troubleshooting because in all likelihood, your wiring diagram will show multiple circuits connected to the warning light.

I replaced my coolant sensor to no avail, and now believe I may have a short where the wiring passes underneath a steel bracket that serves as a support for the coolant tank, a filter, and numerous other components, making disassembly a time consuming task that I am planning to do before the heat of summer sets in.  I have no trips planned until then even though there are backup gauges for engine temperature that would provide sufficient piece of mind.  

Your issue could be similar, or of much more potential impact... 

Don't miss the EAA museum (Experimental Aircraft Association) in Oshkosh WI !!

Transyd?  Isn't that like a 100,000+ miles service item?  🤔 

I have the same ladder... 14ft, 27lbs, 250lb load limit.  I use short ~12" pieces of pipe insulation around the top crossbar and strategically on two opposite verticals to protect the paint when leaning it against the coach.  It's much easier to move around and transport than my "Little Giant" telescoping ladder.  

It seems like you want to remove the sofa to access the back of the entertainment equipment... is that what you are asking? 

My Brake Buddy (BB) is the Vantage Select 39504.  It is powered by a 12v cigarette lighter socket wired on separate 15A circuit.  That's the only power to the unit other than the signal from the breakaway cable.  No brake signal from the RV...  the BB uses inertial style braking.

The reason for the confusion is that I also have a Hopkins cable from the 7-pin socket on the RV to a 6-pin socket on the toad.  As best I know, it's functions are: turn signals, tail lights, brake lights, and flashers.  What I don't know is what electrically happens to combine the two brake light signals (one when the BB presses the brake pedal, and one via the cable connecting the RV to the toad).  There could be diodes in the mix... don't know.

No brake controllers of any kind as far as I know... 

1 minute ago, cbr046 said:

If I remember right the brake signal enables the Brake Buddy to brake but uses an accelerometer to drive the proportional braking and push on the toad's brake pedal. 

You should be able to swap with other relays.  If the relay looks the same it's probably ok to swap.  "Your mileage may vary".  I considered the Horn relay the one I could do without (for a short time). 

- bob

I believe you are correct re: the Brake Buddy. 

I will do the swap for something inconsequential if the exhaust brake doesn't work.   Good idea!

No diagram and no pin numbers are stamped on the relay.

I'm still hooked up at an RV Park. Only stationary testing was performed.  Wheels chocked, service brake off, jacks up ignition on, and off.  So, the exhaust brake is untested, as are any other functions.

The Brake Buddy is a removable, portable brake assist device that sits in the floorboard and applies proportionate braking.  I need to re-read the manual, but I think it does so based on the trailer brake signal between the RV and the toad.  That signal is working correctly, since the toad has rear brake lights when the RV brake pedal is depressed.