tomevansfl

A few days ago I went to my coach at the storage facility to "exercise" the engine and generator.  I had just got it back from Cummins Coach Care a few weeks ago for replacing the chassis batteries, changing the oil and fuel filters. The coach had been stored unused for about a month without use and I wanted to run the engine and generator for about an hour each to circulate all the fluids, etc.

The engine cranked just fine but the generator wouldn't even try to turn over.  I couldn't even hear a click when I priimed and tried to start it.  The light on the on/off switch lit up so I know power is getting to the switch on the dash.  I also tried the switch on the generator with no luck. 

I always turn the house and chassis battery cut-off to the off position to prevent vampire battery drainage while in storage. I cheched the breaker on the generator, but it hadn't tripped. I admit I didn't check the fuses in the front-driver's side panel under the driver's window to see if any fuses in there had blown.  Not sure if it may have been disconnected from the chassis batteries or what. 

Could Cummins Coach Care have forgotten to reconnect the generator to the chassis batteries? If they did, is reconnecting something I can do or should I take it back to Cummins Coach Care?

What is the next logical thing to check?

Thanks in advance.

I had Cummins Coach Care of Orlando replace my chassis batteries. When I parked my Diplomat at the storage facility I went to turn off both of the cut-off switches (chassis and house batteries) only to discover the handle for the battery bay was missing. They didn’t try to repair or replace the handle (painted) nor did they tell me they had damaged it. Another reason to not use Cummins Coach Care of Orlando.  

I found the handle on the floor next to the entry door. Unfortunately I haven’t had the opportunity to go back and see if it can be reinstalled or if a new one is in order. I didn’t have time to try and fix it that day. I was able to use needle-nosed players to get in and turn the battery disconnects off.

If Coach Care broke the handle too much to reuse it and I need to replace the whole latch unit, where would I get one that matches my paint?

On 11/21/2022 at 9:19 AM, Windsornut said:

I check my front tire pressure anytime I stop for a break   Don't have monitors for some reason.  FYI, I think many folks may not know Michelin's take on front blow outs.  Per website, they say to mash on the gas if you have a front blowout, it will raise up the low corner and give you more control for a safe stop.  Asked an over the road trucker friend what he would do and without hesitation, he confirmed mashing on the gas.

 

I found this video several years ago. I made both of my sons watch it before they ever got their license. Made wife watch it, too  

https://youtu.be/QbI4RxQlqRk

I also watched this one and had the wife and sons watch it as well  very poignant for RV drivers:

13 hours ago, Oregon04Windsor said:

What do you mean FMCA roadside assistance was closed?  They close?  What the hell good is emergency roadside assistance if they close???

That’s one reason I have Coach Net. 

Couldn’t find a discussion on this, but my Diplomat has black power mirrors. They have rusted through the black paint in several places and look bad but are structurally sound.

I would like to replace them with chrome mirrors with built in cameras. I also plan on changing my backup camera inclu St ing a new monitor. 
 

Has anyone done this replacement on a coach that didn’t have the cameras as original equipment? Suggestions welcome. Also budget estimates welcomed. 
 

Thanks in advanced. 

Are Diplomat emblems available?  I don’t need one yet, but others might…and I might eventually. 

On 10/22/2022 at 12:39 PM, RoadTripper2084 said:

That is absolutely ridiculous, but sadly these days, not at all uncommon.

I would chalk this up as an expensive, but extremely valuable learning experience.

Try to find a local independent diesel shop with good reviews.

Thanks, I will be looking for an experienced Cummins shop not one owned/francise by Cummins.

On 10/5/2022 at 11:10 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Here is the information - Section 10 of your manual - Page 270.  Ivan is correct.  Since it appears you are not going to accept the quotation....these are some options.  

Get you Engine SN from the Cummins Orlando.  They should have it on the ticket or in their files.  Call Cummins. 

The number is 1-800-Cummins..... 1 (800) 286-6467 

Then ask them.  They will give your the correct Fleetguard numbers.  

Another option....when you pick up the MH....stop in Parts.  Then ask for the Primary and the Secondary Filters.  Buy them....but ONLY one.  Parts will have to look up your service record.  Get a copy of that with the Engine Serial Number.....you will pay a little more for the first set...but you have the current Cummins numbers.

THEN....go to Filter Barn or Amazon and order additional sets. I personally only use the Fleetguard....but others use Baldwin and one of yours was a Raycor.

I agree with Ivan....see what is there....but when you get the number.....get the manufacturer....and then you can cross reference.....

Just saw your post.  YES....online is tough.  BUT, I suggest that you start at the beginning and take a week or a month and read the manual.....you can write down the page number for the Table of Contents.....or print it out.  Do the same for the index at the end.  That way, you can quickly find things.  You might also want to print out the first page of each of the 10 sections that lists what is where.  Hard copies of that in a notebook would make your searches easier.  

NOW....HERE is a TRICK. 

Download the manual.  Save it on your harddrive of on the desktop.  Open it in the FREE Adobe Reader.  Then move your cursor to the body of the first page.  RIGHT CLICK.  The Drop Down will have a FIND bar.  Click on that.  Then you can put in ANY search term.  Like FILTER.  Then as you click, Adobe will take you sequentially through every page or reference to filter.  I often use this to help members and saves me from searching.  BUT, you have to open the manual with the ADOBE FREE READER.  This will NOT work if you download the file and view it in your browser.  

2001 Diplomat Filter and Misc Information.pdf 266.88 kB · 1 download

Thanks, I downloaded your copy of the manual.  It navigates better than the online version.

I am not knowledgeable enough to do any engine work…with a recent experience with Cummins Coach Care of Orlando where I live, I now know I must learn to do the basics of diesel maintenance and diagnose issues myself through manuals and YouTube.

None of the RV dealers in the Orlando area will work on my Diplomat because Monaco is no longer in business. I even tried a Holiday Rambler dealer very near my home and they said no unless I had purchased it from them. Even Cummins Coach Care initially said no until I assured them I only wanted engine service.  I had some work on the house side at LazyDays in Wildwood but that was a less than satisfactory experience. 

I have decided I’m most likely going to take the on-line NRVTA course on the house side so I can diagnose and repair much of the routine issues with my RV. I guess for the engine issues I’m going to have to look for a similar training for the basics. 

It is very frustrating trying to find service in our area. I am open to any suggestions for the engine side of maintenance/repairs. 

Just a recap and update.
 

I picked up my RV today. I told them when I dropped it off on 9/8 that I wanted the fuel filters replaced (because trash in the lines was causing the engine to skip) and new batteries for the chassis or starter repair if that was the issue.
 

When I dropped it off, they had told me there was a $500 inspection fee and implied it would be credited if I had work done. They told me they would get to it the following week.  
 

I dealt with two people in the service department. First gave me an estimate of $6,500 to clean the fuel tank and fuel lines.  I declined. Second I dealt with another service writer for they oil change, fuel filters, and batteries.

When I picked it up, they added the inspection fee in addition to the batteries, oil change and air filter replacement. Total was $1,579.

They had my RV from 9/8-10/20 and that was all they did. I understand the batteries and air filter were not stock items but that just seems too long for the work they did. 
 

I rather doubt I’ll go back to Cummins Coach Care when I need service again. 

55 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Cummins may only have one filter listed for the engine. In many cases, Roadmaster Chassis added a secondary filter after the engine was installed in the chassis. So, the information that Cummins may have can be different than what the Monaco manual states.

Thanks

I don't have a hard copy of my manual.  I have a .pdf copy but is a pain to use because you have to scroll through one page at a time; you can't jump to the section you want.  But I will check it to see if there is a list of filters.

I have ordered the Star Tron and Biobor from Amazon.

Can I get the fuel filters from an auto parts store, or should I order from Amazon?

Anyone have the parts number for the fuel filters for 2001 Diplomat?

Moderator merged threads.  Same MH but two separate problems and this was just posted on the individual threads.  Similar responses from members.  Combined as this issue is “how to fix BOTH & Service Estimate”
 

OK folks, for the bad news:

I received an email estimate yesterday.  Replacing the two chassis batteries was included.  The diagnosis indicated trash in the fuel system.  The estimate was to remove the fuel tank, replace fuel filters and Guardian Repair, whatever that is.

Per the technician:

"after following the diagnostic steps we found fuel restriction to be very high, not what we expected, but technician continued and removed the fuel filter and found trash in the fuel filter. I have written this quote to drain, remove and clean fuel tank, fuel lines and replace fuel filters"

The total for labor was $4,500 plus a total of about $2,000 for parts.

I hope I can get it done cheaper somewhere else, what do you guys suggest?

Update: I have called Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care twice and both times they said they have it in shop and will do the inspection/assessment that day.  Neither time have they called with results.
 

The last time I called the tech said he would email an estimate that day, but he didn’t. Because the engine wouldn’t turn over I had to have it towed. If it would start I’d go get it and take my chances with a different shop. 
 

I can understand them being busy and all they had to do is tell me that. But if they can’t be honest about that, how can I trust them to be honest about the repairs. 

Based on my experience I cannot, and will not, recommend Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care. 

BTW, it was towed to Cummins of Orland/Cummins Coach Care before Labor Day. It has been with them for over a month now. 

This was so much cheaper than the full-timer YouTubers claim they spent I thought it might be worth a look.  If I couldn't get all ten panels on the roof it would still be cheaper than the packages on YouTube. There are smaller packaged systems with fewer panels.  I don't have a history of boondocking but would like to try.  The thing that interest me about this system is that they claim you can run a single A/C from the batteries. 

I am retired but my wife is still working as a teacher.  Our plan is to head out the first week of June and return home the last week of July.  Not full-timing but part-timing.  Since we will be traveling during the summer, a/c will be needed.  I don't mind running the generator on daily basis but would prefer to be as close to carbon free as possible. 

I'll take a look at what Victron has to offer to see if I can put together a package from their products.  As I said, this is just research for the future.

Thanks for the info.

I’m curious, has anyone tried one of these?: ECO-WORTHY 8KWh 2000W 24V Solar Power Kit System for Home: 10pcs 195W Solar Panel+ 2pcs 25.6V 100Ah Lithium Battery+ 3500W 24V Inverter+ 60A Controller+ 6 String Combiner Box https://a.co/d/ivtkTjY

I’m only researching at this point. But getting everything from one supplier seems would be better than multiple suppliers. I know the gold standard among full-timers is Battleborn, etc. We aren’t full-timers and don’t plan to be. 

Thanks Tom and Myron,

I just have to wait 'till they call, or should I call them to make sure to get the info you suggest?  Would a regular "generic" code reader find the information?  I have been considering getting one from Advance or Autozone for my other vehicles.

21 hours ago, tomevansfl said:

 

...

The irony of this whole ordeal is that Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care refused twice to work on my RV because it was on a Freightliner chassis there was a ...

Typo, sorry my bad, it should read:

...Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care refused twice to work on my RV because it was not on a Freightliner chassis ...

20 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

...Do you have a sheet in the rear bedroom closet or taped in a plastic sleeve somewhere?  That is what we call the “build sheet” or list of all components that went into the MH.  It has the brand and model and SN.  Might be in the big file folder that, hopefully, you have.  I think that you can still get them from REV… IT even had the tire codes.  Chase that down. VIN Is all you need. ...

I looked for the build sheet in the bedroom in April and found a list of the options intalled on my coach, but as I recall, the engine serial number wasn't on the sheet.  The engine size & engine manufacturer was, but not the engine serial number.  I also looked at the I.D. plate behind the driver's seat.  The VIN number, GVWR,  axle weights,  etc. was listed, but not the engine serial number.  There was a "Unit serial number". But as I recall, the rep I talked to said that wasn't a Cummins engine serial number.

On 8/30/2022 at 5:30 PM, Ray Davis said:

Wow, I didn't mean to start anything.  I'm sure he didn't realize we were waiting over on the other thread for feed back.   

 

Ray, thank you for understanding. 
 

To update:

This post is to report there is nothing to report. But I’ll try. 

I again called Coach Care.  At first they wouldn’t service it because it was not on a freightliner chassis. When I assured them I only wanted service on the engine not the chassis or house (they had already refused to repair my black tank drain for that reason).

Speaking of my black tank. I had to take my RV to Lazydays in Wildwood, FL some 60 miles away to get the black tank repaired. I feel they overcharged for what they did.

I tried virtually all RV dealers in Orange County and got the same response: none of them will service a Monaco since Monaco no longer exist  They would only work on a Monaco if they sold it to me. I bought from a small dealership near Tampa.

I had my RV at LazyDays for several weeks waiting for their diesel technician to get to it. LazyDays reported they drove the RV and it didn’t skip so they couldn’t fix anything. 

My Diplomat cranked with no problems at LazyDays but it skipped all the way home once the engine warmed up.

I tried the recommendations for the electrical issues from the group without success. I had my RV towed to Cummins of Orlando/Coach Care on Monday based on recommendations from this group. It is there to fix the non-cranking and the engine skipping.

I store my RV at a storage facility about 2 miles from my house and don’t have the opportunity to tear into it there and my tree-lined street has limbs that are too low for me to get it to my house. Even if I could, my HOA wouldn’t allow it and would probably fine me for having it at my home for more than the 24 hours per the by-laws.  So I’m very limited to what I can do to the chassis and it’s components. 

After Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care agreed to perform service on the engine they then refused to service it without the engine serial number.

I had my RV towed despite not being able to provide the engine serial number. I explained I couldn’t get to the engine because I have a rear radiator and couldn’t get to the engine without removing the radiator. I tried to find the engine number by looking through the “slot” in the bedroom floor but couldn’t find it from the vantage point I had.
 

The irony of this whole ordeal is that Cummins of Orlando/Cummins Coach Care refused twice to work on my RV because it was on a Freightliner chassis there was a Holiday Rambler in the lot awaiting service.  Same vintage and Roadmaster chassis. So much for not working on anything other than Freightliner. To be fair, I don’t know what was to be serviced but I did notice the Holiday Rambler also had a rear radiator.  I’d like to know how they got its engine serial number. (By the way, I contacted REV via REV’s website to see if they could look it up from my VIN number. Their automated response system acknowledged my inquiry and I would be contacted by a real person, but I am yet to get a real response. 
So there is really no progress to report.

I hope this has satisfied everyone’s concerns.  I am greatful for all of the advise I’ve been given and I am sorry if my silence during this frustrating experience has offended anyone .

I was not able to start the engine after having jumper cables connecting the house batteries to the chassis battery and running the generator for more than 6 hours. I had to cancel the weekend trip I had planned for the following weekend. Life gets in the way sometimes but I am now ready to get the issue resolved.
 

I called Coach Net and they are sending a heavy duty jump start with the option to tow if it can’t be jumped. I realize they go for the simplest thing first. However, could it be the starter?  Not mechanical here but where is it located. I want to try tapping it to see if that will correct (a solution I heard my dad talk about when I was a kid. 

My coach has a rear radiator. Where would I find the start button in the back?…the one techs use so they don’t have to keep going into the cockpit to start the engine. 

I’m willing to try most anything at this point. 

I have always heard to use Dicor.  I have two tubes arriving on Monday from Amazon. 
 

Should I return it and get Proflex?

Welcome from the land of Mickey Mouse!

Just remember, new coaches have problems from the factory and older coaches have problems from deferred maintenance and life happening. Either way the coach will have problems. You aren’t alone in that respect but the people on this forum will be there to help you every step of the way. 

Ok, the “Big Boy” solenoid has been mentioned a few times. I don’t know what that is. 

Didn’t get the engine running. Let the generator run for about 8 hours. Was never able to get aux start enough power to start. I believe the batteries are toast. 

8 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Comment for all.  The fact that his refrigerator, presumably a gas one, not a residential, was running but he had no lights has been churning around in my brain.  I was reading a manual today helping someone offline and came across something that I KNEW, but got filed away.  The Refrigerator and the Inverter are BOTH WIRED upstream of the Salesman switch.  When the Salesman switch is off it kills all the internal power, including the 12 VDC house fuse panel.  That includes the power to the Thermostat(s).  Typically, or at least on mine, the Thermostat circuit also powers the cable / Broadcast Antenna selector switch as the antenna has a built in signal amplifier….plus in some cases others items like the door awning.

Just one additional factoid to remember when trouble shooting

Actually, Tom, our refrigerator is a residential refrigerator. I knew it was running because the light in side was the only light that would come on. The only LP appliances we have are the stove, furnace, and water heater. As it turned out the salesman switch had been turned off at Lazydays. 

1 hour ago, myrontruex said:

Tom, I see you are in or around Orlando?

If you are nearby I would gladly give you a hand. I'm fairly decent at sorting things out.

You have been given spot on advice but I know the frustrations chasing problems. I suspect you have two issues. The salesmans switch circuit may or may not be reliable on your unit and the "big boy" solenoid that combines batteries could be in desperate need of repair.

Your yr coach may not have a system to charge the engine batteries concurrently with your house batteries. This is common. I won't get into the BIRD/IRD conversation now. I surely don't want to muddy the waters. 

There are lots of options for adding devices to charge the engine batteries. Some incredibly simple and some a bit elegant. 

 

You are probably right about the salesman switch. We have a short trip to Ft. Desoto Park leaving tomorrow (hopefully) and will be back on Sunday. After we get back I would like to drive it down to Davenport and get you to help me by-pass that D@mn€d salesman switch. 

Maybe you can also help me get oriented to the Monaco way. 
 

Thanks again for your generous offer. I look forward to meeting you and your wife. We’ll take you guys out to dinner when we meet.