tomevansfl

Ok. The light fixtures next the steps don’t currently have bulbs in them.

2 hours ago, BobSchmeck said:

Is this the setup that you have?

Yes! I don’t think I’ve tried the switch while there would be air in the system. I’ll try it the next time I have the system aired up. 
 

There is a step cover switch next to the co-pilot’s seat, though.

16 hours ago, BobSchmeck said:

I have a 2001 diplomat. The main awning is  power , the one over the door is a manual pull.  Wonder if you might be missing the pull strap. Post a picture.  

If I have a pull strap it is rolled up in the awning. It makes sense that it would be manual. The control panel for the main patio awning only has one button and a key switch.
 

There are a series of three rocker switches. One says patio light and the another has a red symbol but it is worn/faded to the point I can’t tell what it does. I thought that might control the door awning but as far as I can tell it doesn’t seem to do anything. Any ideas what it’s for?  My RV is in storage so I don’t have the option of photographing them for a few days. 

I have a 2001 Diplomat with carefree power main awning. It extends fine but the awning over the door doesn’t extend. I understood both opened at the same time. Is there a second switch? Where would I find it? What am I missing?

Check Wake Graphics in Texas. 

Check their website to see if they have a .pdf copy on their website. 

On 4/29/2021 at 8:16 AM, Pduggs said:

Very nice. 

Does anyone know how to determine if your coach has had ceramic coatings applied?  I’ve owned my coach three years and I bought it from the original owner. He didn’t tell me it was coated, but my coach still shines nice when clean. 

How long does a ceramic coating last? 
 

Paul, did you install the headlights or the previous owner. If you did, what brand are they. I’d like to update mine.

Thanks,

Tom

I have the problem that my Carefree door awning doesn't do anything.  I thought it was supposed to automatically extend when the patio awning went out.  I understand the patio awning is 110VAC and the door awning is 12VDC but I haven't found a fuse labeled door awning.  I have found the patio awning in the 110VAC fuse panel but I haven't found any 12 VDC labeled for awning.

I have found nothing in the manual that tells me there is a difference in power for the two awnings nor how to operate the door awning.

Earlier it was said the door awning fuse is behind the panel above the passenger seat.  How do I get to it to check it?

Was considering getting the type that slides through the accessory groove in the awning tube, but I like that you can use the lights without having the awning extended.  I don't like to leave the awning out when not at the campsite but sometimes you have to return after sunset.  Have had experience with rain and awning collapse...not a pretty picture.

Just now, Wrayj1 said:

Google RV windhield repairs in your area, read reviews to see quality of work.

Thought someone might have experience with someone in Orlando.  Looking at reviews is not the same as personal feedback from someone with the same brand of RV.

Just now, klcdenver said:

Windshield is not installed correctly. I would have it reinstalled by someone who knows what they are doing before it pops out. You will also probably be getting water leakage and damage.

Haven't noticed any leaking, but that doesn't mean it isn't.  I kind of suspected it just needs re-installation.

Anyone know of a windshield company that does RV windshields in Orlando, FL?

On 8/16/2021 at 12:35 PM, SigPIlot said:

Just wondering if anyone knows a good windshield replacement shop in central Florida? Had the name of one a couple of years go but can't find it. I know the guys name was Chris, in Orlando or nearby.

Let me know if you find out the name of the company, I may need to get one side of my windshield re-installed because of whistling noise when I get up to 35-40 MPH.

I understand the "can't get the parts" because of CO

On 8/4/2021 at 8:11 PM, woodylmiller said:

Update.  Out of the blue TadiBrothers contacted me today by phone.  They got the dispute from the credit card company.  Almost a month of no contact from them.  I gave up on them.  I bought two side view cameras from Rear View Safety.  Excellent company.  Customer service was great.  There was some mix up on their end and the cameras I wanted were not available any longer.  To make things right the over knighted by FedEx to get me the cameras.  Couldn't ask for anything more.  Plus follow ups to make sure I was pleased with the purchase.  They sure weren't the cheapest source, but the cameras look great.  I must remember; "don't go broke trying to save a buck".

Back to TadiBrothers.  I have disputed all charges with them since I thought they had gone south.  I have 3 curbside and 1 roadside camera to return to them.  I will never do business with that company again and I would advise all of you to steer clear.  They would like to blame all their troubles on the rona, I get it, but enough was enough, their customer no-service was bullcrap.  A month?  Really?

Woody Miller

VID, the parts are probably sitting off the coast of Long Beach, but there is no excuse for not returning calls/emails.  Too many people teleworking for COVID being the issue for not contacting you.

When we bought our Diplomat, the dealer installed a residential style refrigerator.  I don't know, but I think they took one side of the windshield out to pass the fridge through.  The noise is very annoying, especially to the co-pilot. Once at a dump station I jacked up the curb-side of the RV to help with flow.  The noise went away until I made a 90 degree turn at an intersection and the rear wheel dropped into a deep mud-hole.  Then it seemed to immediately return.

Is this something that could be corrected by re-installing the windshield?  Or does this mean I have another, more serious, problem?

In my RV, I use waze for maps at the moment and mount my cell phone to the driver's side window with a suction mount. I have a 10' power cord that I run to a Sig-lighter style outlet in the middle of the dash; it's at a convenient eye level without blocking mirror or view ahead.  Not the most elegant solution but it's temporary until I can get around to upgrading to a GPS.  I, too, have the same problem with my factory back-up camera. and would like to replace it with a hardwired unit.

On 9/6/2021 at 9:39 PM, JDCrow said:

Found some time today 

Headlights look good.  I didn't think I would like these, but I do.

On 10/22/2021 at 10:57 AM, JDCrow said:

You are correct on the E series van. I just did mine, but not sure what is “economical” to one is a necessity  to another.

Anywau, turned out great and can see a long, long ways out now. 

Nice looking upgrade.  Where did you get them? I am looking for a projector style similar to the ones you have. 

By economical, I'm not looking to spend $400 each.  I have seen them at that price and really didn't like them.  I don't like to drive at night so I'm looking more at aesthetics, I guess.  Just want to make the old girl look fresher.

On 4/14/2021 at 3:36 PM, JDCrow said:

TRW box and pitman arm are in the mail. Well UPS. 
 

I am going to sub out next week the Monaco Watts, cross bars, shocks, and TRW to a shop that has done some work for me in the past. I need to jump on irrigation and getting our property rolling for work. 
 

I’ll get some pics of those items, and current ones I’m doing after work. 
 

 

I have a 2001 Diplomat and I may need to replace my steering gear box or at least adjust it.  I bounce from side to side, but stay in my lane, it takes work sometimes though.  Also considering a Safe T Plus Steer stabilizer and Monaco Watts sway bar systems.

I live in Orlando so I have a great shop nearby.  Any other suggestions to help driving my RV.

I have a 2001 Diplomat.  My headlights have yellowed and are cloudy.  I'd like to replace them with projector style headlights to update the front face of the RV.

Any idea where I could get an economical option? What size would be correct?  I'm thinking headlights for a early 2000's Ford E150/E-250/E350 series?

12 hours ago, Flyinhy said:

I agree. I've used adelmans.com for replacement engines before. They're high but beats the *ell out of labor costs for an inframe rebuild........3000.00 for a good used engine. 

Oh wow!  I thought/assumed a rebuilt engine was in the $10 range, or even more. 

A blown diesel engine has always been my biggest fear.  Now I can at least sleep at night.

Cool!  I like what you did. 

I’m going to subscribe to this thread and sit back and take it all in. I’m always up for learning about the practical aspects of RV’ing.

So Mike, where do you live? The wife and I are planning an “epic road trip” cross country next summer. I’m thinking I might drop in on you to get some work done on our Diplomat!😉😇

OMG Mike!

I just want to replace my driver's console cup holder with a deeper one so I don't spill my drink (non-alcoholic, of course) when I hit the brakes!

You've seriously given me ideas...unfortunately, I'm not as handy as you are.

8 hours ago, David Pratt said:

All are Active Tag Steering or Passive.

As I’m not as knowledgeable about the Foretravel, King Air, Essex and Cornerstone I had to looked them up.

Each is built on a Spartan K3 or K4 chassis and all have passive steering tag axles. This means that the wheels on the tag follows the path of the drive axle and the driver doesn’t direct them with the steering wheel. Passive steering is just that, passive. They “float” left or right as they follow along behind the drive axle.

With active steering the direction of the tag wheels is controlled by steering the front wheels. In other words you turn the front wheels with the steering wheel and the tag axle wheels turn at about 50% of the angle the front wheels turn. This eliminates tire scuffing while leaving the tag axle in full contact while carrying their normal load 100% of the time, including when the transmission is in reverse gear. Passive steering doesn’t do this.

While both prevent tag axle tire scuffing when traveling forward at low speeds, passive doesn’t function in reverse and does not eliminate tag axle tire scuffing. 

The thing that confounds me is that when you put the transmission in reverse, the passive tag is brought to straight and allows tire scuffing when backing into a campsite. So I’m confounded why Spartan mechanically forces the wheels straight when backing but doesn’t have an active forward steering. Newell’s tags  are active in both directions when going slow. It’s not needed at highway speeds.

Active air suspension means the ride height of the coach is adjusted multiple times per second to compensate for road irregularities and to keep the coach level. Not the same thing as active steering tag axle.