Newcsn

@Steven P Great observation - I’m wondering if ours was a similar situation. Since we’ve owned it, it’s never sat outside & experienced cold temps near what we had in December - it got to 9 elbow for an extended period here in Indy. Hoping that’s it! Thanks 

@Frank McElroy Thanks for the feedback! Sorry for the delayed response - have been traveling & unable to do additional diagnostics on the genset coolant leak. I’m very pleased to say the radiator appears to have not been the problem! When I removed the radiator side access panel it appears the radiator hose clamp needed some tightening. Gonna keep an eye on it - but I think we’re good for the time being! Thanks again 

Scotty - thanks so much for all you do to keep this awesome “living” encyclopedia going!!! Truly appreciated!

Thank you all for your input - this group is great! Will provide an update once I have a chance to work on it. Gonna try connections & breker first and see what happens. But, won’t have a chance to run it through its paces until March. Thanks as always!

Did a walk-around while visiting our 2006 Dynasty D4 the other day & noticed a wet spot under our genset. Crawled under & it appears to be leaking from the passenger side of the radiator. I removed some of the shroud & the coolant reservoir to see if it the plastic reservoir was cracked - no cracks & no visible hose leaks. Upon closer inspection it appears it's either leaking from the side tank seal (between side tank & core) or the core tubes (looks to be an aluminum core).

Has anyone encountered this before? It appears the radiator is a side load w/ an access panel on the passenger side of the genset. However, it appears the genset will have to be lifted about 6" in order to remove the radiator - the hydraulic slide out cylinders/mount are in the way.

Thanks for your feedback!

You guys are awesome - thanks for the “food for thought” (and to potentially spend more $$$ than I want to)! Looks like I’ll proceed in this fashion:

1. Check connections 
2. Switch breakers (replace as needed)
3. Check capacitors (replace as needed)

If none of these resolve the issue, then I have a very weighty $$$ decision to make. 3 15,000 BTU AC units w/ heat pumps & thermostats is no cheap date!

Thanks for all the great feedback!

We have 3 15000 BTU AC/Heat pump units on our Dynasty - they appear original, so probably 16 yrs old. One of them - with increasing regularity - will trip its breaker. We reset the breaker & we’re good to go until it decides to have its next hissy fit. It might happen daily, ever other day or once a week - no seeming regularity.

Does this sound like a capacitor? Thanks

Thank you Tom! Totally get the need for thoroughly running the diagnostics & not being a parts swapper (In my previous life I was a Master Tech for GM & worked with a number of folks that were parts changers - at best)!

Will continue the diagnostics as time & weather permits!

Truly appreciate you taking the time to moderate this site & provide detailed feedback!

Thanks again!

Thanks again for all the feedback - truly appreciated!

I haven't had the time to execute the full diagnostic plan as suggested. However, I did have the coach plugged in for about 4 hours & then attempted to start it. It would not start off the chassis batteries - however - it did start when I used Battery Boost. Therefore, my assumption is that the Big Boy is working correctly - at least in the Boost mode.

We also drove it for about 60 miles & it appears the chassis batteries are now charged as it restarts w/o Boost

Thoughts?

Tom Cherry - Thanks so much for the feedback!

Vito.a - Disregard my earlier question. I found your post on IRV2 with the attachment "Big Boy Relay rebuild instructions".

Thanks again!

Big Boy Relay rebuild instructions.pdf

10 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Both charge.  Check your Intellitec Big Boy solenoid in the rear run bay.  They are notorious for carbon buildup on the interior contacts.  

Vito.a - Thanks for the feedback! Is the Big Boy solenoid something I can remove, disassemble & clean? Thanks

Coach batteries dead this AM when I went to start it. Of course, it's sat for a couple months w/o being plugged in & it's been pretty cold around here. Attempted battery boost on dash & still nothing. Apparently all have lost their charge.

When plugged in, do both house & chassis batteries charge or just house?

Haven't had this happen previously - always left it plugged in to 15A service. Just want to know how the charger works.

Thanks!

Thanks for your replies!

Any prohibitions against driving our winterized coach long distances while RV antifreeze is in water lines? Thanks

Thanks Ivan K! Yep, there's a LPG tank in there! Totally curious why they'd bother to put a lock on the other side of the little fuel-fill door. That makes absolutely no sense - unless I'm missing something (which is entirely possible)!

We've owned our Dynasty Diamond IV for a little over a year & I just realized the bay door (not the little fuel-fill door, the bay door) for the fuel tank on the driver's side has no locking mechanism in the latch. The passenger side does. In fact, it's the only bay door on the coach without a lock. Why in the world wouldn't they put a lock in that door?!!!! What's more, can I order a handle/lock assembly & have it keyed to the other locks?

Thanks!

We have developed a knocking noise in the compressor of our residential fridge in our 06 Dynasty Diamond. Will the existing/original residential fridge fit out the door - and - will. Samsung RF 18 fir in the door? Or, will they both have to go through the window?

Thanks for your feedback!

Do you need to clean off all the old Dicor sealers before painting with Topside?

6 hours ago, jegall said:

I have vacuum gauge on the engine intake it lets me know when the filter is dirty.

 

Jegall - Do you have a vacuum gauge on your dash that reads vacuum on the intake - or - are you referring to a filter minder/gauge such as BigNick references? Thanks

While we’re on the topic of air filters; how frequently should one replace these? Is it a mileage equation, a time equation or a combination of these and driving environments? Thanks 

Because of all the issues with the IOTA, doI assume correctly that there was a year that the IOTAs were no longer installed in our rigs? What year was that - and - what did they transition to from the IOTA?

10 hours ago, Paul A. said:

You will get an accurate weight where ever your axle is on the platforms[tables].  Just stradle the drive and tag axles between the 2nd and 3rd platforms. When adjusting the Down pressure on the tag, the Drive axle becomes a fulcrum point and you move weight to/from the front axle,  to,  to/from the tag axle, by raising/lowering the Down pressure. The weight on the Drive axle is minimally effected. Just like a teeter totter. Remember?

Thank you Paul A! This makes perfect sense!

Hi There:

I suspect numerous tomes regarding tire pressures/weighing rig have been written/read over the years! So, as a newby, I took my Monaco Dynasty D4 to a CAT scale and had it weighed. The weights were: Ft Axle - 13840 & Drive Axle - 25000.

Because I have a drive & tag axle, should I have positioned the rig so my drive axle was on the back edge of table 2 & my tag axle on the front edge of table 3? Will CAT scales weigh accurately when the wheels are not centered on the tables?

Also, I've read tomes about the superiority of "four corner" scales. Is there really that much difference b/t a four corner & CAT scale when it comes down to determining tire pressures?

Thanks

Being we’re on the topic of lighted grab bars; our 06 Dynasty D4 has an interior & exterior lighted bar. Both have been working flawlessly until a week ago. Now neither light. Anyone know where I’d find the fuse to see little buggers? Figured I’d start there! Thanks