Newcsn

In the last couple weeks our 2006 Dynasty is occasionally experiencing a terrible sewer smell only when flushing the toilet - have never experienced it previously. I know there are air admittance vents under each sink. Do these have anything to do w/ properly venting the black tank or are they all for the grey tank? We have a black tank rinse feature & use it every time we dump - and also add the orange Camco black tank odor pouches.

Thank you!

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I did a lot of research on this.  SO, make up two new cables....the GROUND has to also be larger, and run them directly to the Genny. BE CAREFUL when you torque down the bolts on the ONAN.  They are BRASS...but using coming sense will work.

Hope this clears it up.  

Thanks @Tom Cherry - and sorry for the add to your "housekeeping"! Cleared up! Happy New Year!

11 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

The ONLY way to know is to pull the Model Number and download that manual. There were several of the earlier 10K's that DID have an Alternator....and then Onan dropped that or it was a special model. Typically, the 12.5K's DO have them... BUT, wired properly?  Who KNOWS.  The wiring issues were not understood until a realistic evaluation of current capacity and wire size...see my other post.

And, again, the "won't start and need an Aux Battery" issue only impacts a small number...I was way low when I estimated that 80% do NOT have an issue.  NOW, when it gets REALLY COLD...maybe, but if your Engine will crank, that means that the Starting or Chassis batteries are OK. BUT, if you underwire it...like Monaco DID...you will have an issue. One of the nicest Aux Battery projects was a dream.  REALLY GREAT workmanship. BUT, if you look at what he did...he upgraded the wiring to the Genny.  BINGO....that would have probably started the Genny with what he had...

 

Thanks @tom cherry & @ivylog ! I must be one of those “lucky” Dynasty owners that has the genset start issue. I’ve checked all batteries (8 house & 2 new chassis - no bad battery & all fully charged) & cleaned all terminals.  Genset attempts to start but only grunts a couple times. However, when the main engine is running the genset will crank right up! 

It would appear the “undersized cables” may be its issue. From a cost & labor perspective it would seem much easier to install a battery setup similar to Ivylogs - as opposed to running heavier cables the length of the coach.  And, our 10 KW does have an alternator on it - I’ve replaced its belt.

Am I missing something on the “cost & labor” side of the equation? Thank you!

On 3/16/2023 at 2:42 PM, Ivylog said:

Decided to remove and inspect my aux compressor from behind the front axle because it took for ever to build pressure and it’s very noisy. All of the inside is black due to poor filtering of the air and the cylinder is scored badly. Honed it and sanded the lip of the piston. Still just as noisy and I’ve already mounted another compressor up front next to the generator. Has to be a better location and it’s a lot quicker than the Power Gear.

MODERATOR NOTE.  The discussion about the NEED for or the CAUSE of a Generator NOT starting properly and putting an up front battery has MORPHED.  All the SUBSEQUENT REPLIES TO THIS TOPIC HAVE BEEN MOVED.... Members requested this housekeeping for information and ability to search and use....

END OF EDIT....

This is the topic where the posts were moved to....NOW COMPLETED....see the link below...

@Ivylog Just ran across your pic of the new compressor/battery mount. What brand of compressor is that? And, do I assume correctly that the battery is to start the genset? If so, I’ve been considering doing the same & would value feed back on wiring & components necessary to put a genset starting battery up front w/ short cable runs. Will the alternator on the genset charge this battery/how do you keep it charged?  Thanks

I recently replaced the impeller on our Shurflo 3200 macerator pump. After running it for a bit, it appears the shaft seal is leaking & needs to be replaced. The only thing I've been able to find online is the complete impeller housing assembly - for about $100.  https://defender.com/en_us/shurflo-macerator-pump-impeller-housing-kit-94-570-00

Wondering if anyone has encountered this before & found a seal part number. I suspect this little seal would be a max on $10-15 - if you can find one.

If we can't find just the seal, it doesn't seem to make much sense to pay $100 for the housing when you can buy a new pump for $185!

On 11/28/2023 at 8:29 PM, Jim Pratten said:

Yep, used 1” NPT to 1” stainless steel hose barbs.  Saw no need for hose clamps. Cut into existing plumbing at the lower black ABS line and the upper SPA hose PVC line using one each ABS and PVC 1 1/2” slip to 1 1/2” female NPT and 1 1/2” NPT to 1” NPT stainless reducers.

edit note - corrected to 1 1/2” and included use of reducers.

 

 

As side note, I’m a fan of PTFE paste versus tape, especially when joining dissimilar materials. 

@Jim Pratten Thank you - that looks like an awesome solution - way more flexible than spa hose! Okay, time to crawl in that cabinet (again) on Saturday! DW will be very happy - she’s been handling kitchen clean up ops out of the bath sink that past couple days. Thanks again!

16 minutes ago, Jim Pratten said:

I put in a 1” nylon reinforced vinyl hose. It’s extremely flexible and sink drains well, I’d say as fast as ever.  Flow rate is already restricted by the sink strainer and basket so little to no benefit IMO to maintain 2” hose. 

@Jim Pratten Interesting solution! Is the 1” nylon reinforced hose the clear type you can buy at any of the big box home improvement stores? How did you connect it on the ends - barb fittings? Thanks

22 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Some of the guys are using a commercial car wash vacuum hose instead of the original spa hose.   It's more flexible.

Here are two threads with great information on repairing the kitchen slide drain hose. 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/kitchen-sink-flexible-drain-hose-replacement-383127.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/broken-flex-drain-in-kitchen-slide-539786.html 

@vito.a Thank you! I’m going to see if I can source some commercial car wash vacuum hose in the Ft Myers area - when we get there!

This will be the second time in 2 years that the flexible drain hose in our 06 Dynasty kitchen slide has broken. There has to be a better solution!!! What other types of hose is available that will last longer? I’m really surprised the engineers didn’t devise a flex joint for this setup! Thanks for your feedback!

On 11/5/2023 at 10:48 AM, Happycarz said:

Jeff,

Silicone hoses permeate water, but not coolant. OTR trucks tend to loose five gallons of water per year.  (So, does that mean a motorhome might use a pint in a year?) When the trucker keeps topping off his system with 50/50 coolant mixture, the coolant becomes more and more concentrated. 

But, the silicone hoses are more durable than the rubber ones.  I don’t feel I need a more durable type of hose as I get 10 years out of the rubber ones. I rather spend the money in other places. But, that is just me.  

 

Mark,

I read where the Dynasty has a couple of 45° hoses, but don’t have any firsthand knowledge.  Hopefully, someone that has such coach can chime in. Otherwise, off to the parts store with your old ones.

 

Paul,

After 7 years I bought spare hoses to be able to replace every hose on my coach. I procrastinated and replaced all mine at 11 years.  And I bought another set to put in the spare parts bin.

There is one hose that should be replaced more frequently.  The 3/8” coolant hose that attaches to the top of the turbo, which is subjected to extremely high heat and tends to crack prematurely.  But, The lower coolant return hose happens to be a steel braided line with crimped swivels and is more durable. 

Water cooled turbos, which most are, have these.

 

When I spotted the condition of mine, I checked out my buddies similar coaches. Theirs too were bad. As long as the engine is cold and the pressure is relieved, changing that 3’ hose is simple with very little coolant loss. 

It would be wise to take a look at this small overlooked hose.

Thanks to everyone who chimed in on the radiator hose replacement project on our 06 Dynasty w/ ISL 400, side radiator & external trans cooler. The project is complete including new coolant pipes & turbo coolant return hose. Here are the Dayco hoses that we used:

• 3 - Dayco 70920
• 1 - Dayco 72140
• 1 - Dayco 70921 

2 Dayco 70920 were used (trimmed to fit) b/t the engine block, surge tank Y & external trans cooler. The other 70920 was used b/t the lower coolant pipe & external trans cooler. The Dayco 72140 was installed b/t the upper coolant pipe & upper radiator. The Dayco 70921 was trimmed to fit b/t the lower coolant pipe & radiator. The excess from the 70921 was more than sufficient for the straight hose b/t the upper coolant pipe & the thermostat housing. And, we also put a new thermostat in while we were in there.

I took the coolant pipes to a local muffler shop & they fabricated new coolant pipes for us (2 pipes for $75 - couldn't believe it!).

We've order a new surge tank from C-Low Fabricators & hope to install it before we take our next trip!

Thanks again for all the advice! This group is amazing!

20 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Mine was less than the full three feet I bought. Mine goes from the bottom of the surge tank to the Y by the lower engine radiator hose. I would think yours would be the same. At the same time, Monaco was not consistent with all coaches.  

Hopefully, when you measure it, you will find it shorter. 

I don’t have a good picture of the routing to share with you. Sorry.

@Happycarz Well, that 1 1/4" hose from the surge tank is definitely over 3' - and actually closer to 6'. On our Dynasty (side radiator) the surge tank sits high on the passenger side of the engine compartment & the hose connects mid-way on the driver's side of the engine. I'm hoping the standard wall 1 1/4" hose from NAPA will be sufficient - it is a D1 spec hose. Obviously, I'll be keeping a close eye on it! Thanks again for your feedback!

On 11/3/2023 at 1:50 PM, Happycarz said:

2008 Camelot, side radiator, external trans cooler, built May 2007, with ISL400

Monaco used 2 ¼” hoses for the cooling systems in many models.  They also used an 1 ¼” hose from the surge tank to the engine.

In my case I needed (2) 90° hoses, 3’ of straight 2 ¼” hose and 3’ of 1 ¼” hose. There are different types of straight hose and the factory blue stripe had a high failure rate, as evidenced back in 2008-2009. The NAPA white stripe has shown the best life, 10 years vs 1 ½ years. Many folks tried the green stripe and yellow stripe, only to find the NAPA white stripe to be the premier hose.

With the 3’ of the strait hose, you will be able to make many replacement strait hoses. You should only need two of the 90°, trimmed to fit. 

@Happycarz I'm looking for the 1 1/4" hose to run from our surge tank down to the block. The only length I'm finding out there from NAPA or Gates is 3' max. Was yours longer that 3'? If so, where did your find longer lengths? I haven't pulled ours off yet, but I'm guessing it's at least 6' long.

NAPA has a "Gold" 1/ 1/4" hose that is "standard wall thickness & exceeds D1 specs". I'm wondering if this is sufficient?

Thanks

Thanks for everyone’s input! We went ahead w/ porcelain tile (12x24). We’ve attached a few pics of the end result. Definitely not a job for the faint of heart (or weak of back)! But, overall, we’re incredibly pleased with the outcome. Carpet is next! Thanks again for all the input,

2 minutes ago, rustykramermetalfab said:

I am not saying this is not helpful information, but I bought all the hoses they had listed for my coach, 2006 Dynasty ISL 400. I had to shorten most of them and still needed additional large hoses and all of the small return lines.  I bought them up front and then took on the project. If it works out and you have time just remove all your hoses and use the local parts store.  You may still need to cut some length off. 

Thanks @rustykramermetalfab - truly appreciate the additional perspective! I’m actually at our coach as I’m writing & doing some measuring before I order hoses. Yes, there are a couple hoses that will need to be trimmed to fit - especially at the cooler. However, on our coach, the bends/specs/sizes match up. We’ll see if my eyes & their specs agree! Thanks again!

11 hours ago, Hockeydiesel said:

Dayco has an online chart for hoses and belts. Covers most Monaco models, not all engines. Google- daycoaftermarket- choose Heavy Duty, where it says Automotive, then enter your info ( year, make, model, engine ). It worked for my coach. Good luck, Mike.

Spot on! Thank you @Hockeydiesel!!! It had all the hose numbers/specs for Dynasty! Thank you!

19 minutes ago, Georgia Mike said:

I used this from Home Depot on my last motorhome when I replaced the floor around the top of the steps.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-Cinch-1-22-in-x-36-in-Spice-Fluted-Stair-Edging-Transition-Strip-43311/204768761

Thanks Georgia Mike - that's what I have in hand now. Not exactly what I was looking for - but will work until I can redo the stairwell. Thanks 

On 11/5/2023 at 6:28 PM, cbr046 said:

Have you tried https://www.mcmaster.com/products/stair-treads/ ?

- bob

Yes - they don't have a style that works. Thanks

23 hours ago, Ken Smith said:

I tiled the sides and the entry step with matching floor tile, the trim is commercial tile stair moulding.

 

 

That turned out very nice! Thanks for posting! 

10 minutes ago, 6Wheels said:

You could replace the carpet on the riser with the same flooring material and use one of the many stair nose products available.  That extra vertical tab is to hide the fasteners, but if you used stainless steel round nosed screws it would look nice.

Thanks @6Wheels - I’ve actually contemplated changing out the carpet on the side of the risers - and will do so eventually. Just not sure if I’ll use the same porcelain tile we put on the floor or some other material. Still exploring! Just wanted to put down new transition b/f we head to FL. Thanks

43 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

Jeff,

Silicone hoses permeate water, but not coolant. OTR trucks tend to loose five gallons of water per year.  (So, does that mean a motorhome might use a pint in a year?) When the trucker keeps topping off his system with 50/50 coolant mixture, the coolant becomes more and more concentrated. 

But, the silicone hoses are more durable than the rubber ones.  I don’t feel I need a more durable type of hose as I get 10 years out of the rubber ones. I rather spend the money in other places. But, that is just me.  

 

Mark,

I read where the Dynasty has a couple of 45° hoses, but don’t have any firsthand knowledge.  Hopefully, someone that has such coach can chime in. Otherwise, off to the parts store with your old ones.

 

Paul,

After 7 years I bought spare hoses to be able to replace every hose on my coach. I procrastinated and replaced all mine at 11 years.  And I bought another set to put in the spare parts bin.

There is one hose that should be replaced more frequently.  The 3/8” coolant hose that attaches to the top of the turbo, which is subjected to extremely high heat and tends to crack prematurely.  But, The lower coolant return hose happens to be a steel braided line with crimped swivels and is more durable. 

Water cooled turbos, which most are, have these.

 

When I spotted the condition of mine, I checked out my buddies similar coaches. Theirs too were bad. As long as the engine is cold and the pressure is relieved, changing that 3’ hose is simple with very little coolant loss. 

It would be wise to take a look at this small overlooked hose.

Thanks again @Happycarz. So far, it's off to the parts store we go! Sure appreciate your feedback on the small hose to the turbo! We'll definitely be addressing it!

7 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

Do the original ones not work with the new flooring?

They're cracked & need to be replaced. Thanks 

30 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I would walk into any flooring Co. Try those big Tile discounters. Floor & Decor 

Thanks @tmw188 - I’ve been to Floor & Decor and a number of other flooring stores. All to no avail. 

On 11/3/2023 at 1:50 PM, Happycarz said:

2008 Camelot, side radiator, external trans cooler, built May 2007, with ISL400

Monaco used 2 ¼” hoses for the cooling systems in many models.  They also used an 1 ¼” hose from the surge tank to the engine.

In my case I needed (2) 90° hoses, 3’ of straight 2 ¼” hose and 3’ of 1 ¼” hose. There are different types of straight hose and the factory blue stripe had a high failure rate, as evidenced back in 2008-2009. The NAPA white stripe has shown the best life, 10 years vs 1 ½ years. Many folks tried the green stripe and yellow stripe, only to find the NAPA white stripe to be the premier hose.

With the 3’ of the strait hose, you will be able to make many replacement strait hoses. You should only need two of the 90°, trimmed to fit. 

Thanks @Happycarz - looks like the 90s may work in a couple locations. However, our Dynasty must be configured slightly different. It has a couple hoses to the radiator that look more in the range of a 30 degree bend. I may just have to do it the old-fashioned way - take them all off & then start chasing down a match! Thanks

2 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

The post says the pictures are unavailable……

I just corrected that - thanks!

Recently replaced our floor in our 2006 Dynasty and have been attempting to find a source for the black trim/molding around the top of the stair well (photos attached). I've put mt best "googling skills" to work & have been able to find it. Wondering if anyone has run across a supplier that may still manufacture it? Thanks

I’ve been getting in the habit of documenting every part number any time I have to address an issue on our coach. I’ve searched, and a number of our REAR radiator friends (Ambassador & Knight owners) have been kind to do the same & then post the NAPA or Dayco part numbers for the radiator hoses for their rigs. That’s such valuable info - thank you!

I’m wondering if any of our SIDE radiator 2006 Dynasty (ISL w/ side radiator w/ external trans cooler) owners have replaced their radiator hoses & have documented/remember the part numbers? I’m well aware of the the “take them off & go to a parts store to match up” advice. Just thought there may be some proactive 2006-ish Dynasty owners that may have saved this info & will share it with other owners.

Thank you!

All the feedback on heated floors is nice - and I'd love to add them. But, this will increase the thickness/height of the finished floor. This would require slide adjustments - i imagine. 

What's that process entail?