Jim Pratten

We use ones similar to this one in three location secured using VHB tape: Cabinet above windshield for router, jet packs . . . Dash for iPad, Garmen, TPMS . . . Bedroom TV cabinet for rechargable flashlights, family radios . . . Another consideration is how to connect these and other 12vdc devices to coach power. I’m not a fan of cigarette lighter sockets used for 12vdc power. Wherever we need to make a portable 12vdc connection, we use Anderson Powerpole connectors. When we replace a cigarette lighter outlet, I’ve used these.

Thanks @jacwjames, will have to look into a bit more. I have a D2 spare I carried over from my Volvo that, at a glance, looks the same as the one mounted in my engine compartment. I didn’t give it a second thought that it might not be compatible. Still suspect it is but my betting confidence is weakening.

Geez, I thought all air governors were generically called D2 with same form and function across all manufacturers, with exception some are adjustable. Couldn’t see any difference after Google searching the 9754990010 and KN18537 on parts list Jim provided. They both look like D2’s. Am I missing something significant?

Interesting and good job troubleshooting. I’m almost dangerously smart on how HWH works and appreciate insight like this. Am I correct in guessing it was the rear six pack?

@vanwill52and @Ivan K, I’ve wondered the same. Assume there’d be some heat dissipation and reduction in temperature past the turbo but wouldn’t it still be linear with respect to the manifold temperature? If linear, it seems I’d be able to establish desirable performance range . . . or not?

Ditto Ivan. Their ordering process is a little cumbersome with them calling you for charging info. However, delivery was quick, price was reasonable and quality was good. Very pleased with new touch panel overlay.

Van, does the AutoMeter amplifier output match the connected type K signal? Would prefer sticking with the same gauge family as the fuel pressure and, if possible, would use this amp between the type K thermocouple and the gauge. Like you, I have run multi conductor cable and using an amp makes great sense to me.

I removed our Jabsco accumulator tank also. It adds some short cycling of the water pump, especially if there's air in the lines. We can easily live with that versus hassle/risk of changing water filters. Our water filters were installed directly over the inverter and felt much more important to sacrifice the accumulator to create space for relocating the filters. Could have mounted the accumulator somewhere else, say under a sink, but just don't feel it brings that much value. edit - I should add the most important part, the boss doesn't even notice the pump cycling and could care less if she did. Just as long as water flows when the faucet is opened, all's good here.

I learned a couple things and thought worth my time. Here’s the link if you care to watch.

Short story - I used layers of tape on the topper tube to create a “bulge” on the tube to tighten the fabric. Long story - Our slide topper material was in pretty good condition, however, it sagged on one end and collected a pool of water. I took the material off and measured from cord to cord across the length of the topper. I found the cord to cord measurement is nominally 46” and was about 3/16” longer in the middle of the side where it puddled Since our slide extends 19”, a little more than half of the topper material was never unrolled and exposed to weather. I flipped the topper fabric so the unexposed material would now be used and the previously exposed material was placed on the tube side. To compensate for the 3/16” difference in lengths, I put several lengths of painters tape on the tube prior to reinstalling the topper. I built up tape layers starting around 6’ long and shortening about a 1’ for each successive piece. In the end, I suspect I built it up about 1/16” in the middle of the tape layers, which taper down from there. Worked very well, the slide topper looks new and is very taught. When the topper is extended, there’s 4 layers of fabric still on the tube with a bit more fabric wrapped on the area with the tape “bulge”. All in all, took about 3 hours with my son helping. Suspect could cut that in half, having figured out how to safely remove and reinstall the topper.

Ideally, someone very knowledgeable and experienced (preferably a chemist), will speak up and say all those fluids are fine to mix in any ratio. Otherwise, I would also drain and refill.

I’m guessing you have a Southco Grabber Latch or similar that broke or is jammed and is holding the drawer. I’d be inclined to slip a putty knife behind the top center of the drawer face, and with a hammer blow to the putty knife, attempt to break the latch “finger” to release the drawer.

I also worked at a location that had world class calibration labs and processes. You tend to get religion when your systems and tools are challenged by QC audits from folks that know the business and have the authority to red tag your equipment. . . . and smiles Tom on the enhancement of the topic description.

My wife asked, “What the heck are you doing?” as she took this photo. Agree, it might look a little odd sucking on some tubing. There was some recent forum discussion on when to change our engine air filters. Common industry recommendation is to change the filter when the restriction gauge measures 25” water column. But how do I know my gauge is accurate? Simple enough to test with a little tubing, some hose barb / 1/8” mnpt fittings and a bottle of water. Amazingly enough, my 24 year old Donaldson Informer gauge was darn near 100% accurate at the 10, 15, 19, 22 and 25 inch gauge indicator “trip” increments.

Ditto what Bob said. Search this forum for “lift pump bolts” and you find several thorough discussions with pics. Lift pump part number should be accessible on Cummins Quickserve system. You need to register which takes just a few minutes. You’ll need your engine serial number.