nvrtoofast

Hey all,

The furnace kicks on to run hot water for the shower or the sink but it doesn't kick on for heat. I checked all minors elements, fuses etc, but would like some input on where to start tracking this down. the system worked all last winter but started acting up near the end of winter and now that the need has arisen I'm back to working on it.  I'm working on a 2006 Monaco Camelot.

Thank you in advance for any input.

I replaced the rear in this manner and the front unit and furnace continued to work. The furnace and each unit are relatively closed loop to thermostat.

I've been looking for this also. Interested to hear if anyone knows of one.  I saw one post on another forum where they cut the wire and reconnected with butt connectors. It worked but not a pretty solution. To that end, any other connector would work.

I have a 2006 Monaco Camelot. The rear camera started to fail and has now gone dark. I'm planning to replace with a full 360 camera system.

However, in the mean time I have a few short trips. Does anyone know anyway to nurse the rear camera along?

Why does it fail to begin with?

Not directly answ3eing your question. But, I did find this link interesting. https://www.knapeandvogt.com/kvconnect/rv-cargo-storage-calls-heavy-duty-drawer-slides

Double check that the wiper motor is moving. My wipers stripped out the arms and wouldn't move. Had to pull them and use a metal sleeve to tighten up the tolerance to get them working again.

43 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The reset button for the Trip odometer, maybe.

Should be this. But ensure your best friend is sitting in passenger seat before pushing... Will at least make it a fun accident.

2 minutes ago, saflyer said:

There we go. Thanks.

I’ve made this point before. When someone posts with an acronym please define it at least the first time. Just one of my pet peeves.

It only gets worse in military equipment: the SLAMRAAM mounted on the HMMVWs makes a great SAM but not as good as the IAMD using the NASAMS equipment.

 It is mystifying....

27 minutes ago, 6Wheels said:

RAD = Rare Antarctic Disease

By the way thinking about carrying this around in the back of my RV is hilarious

Actually:

CAC - Charge Air Cooler (intercooler on cars)
RAD - Radiator

In line with Ivan. If you're going to BLM land at MOAB, Don't. If you're ok running on washboard roads and planning ahead for water delays then you're good. Mini's have stiff suspension and even washboard on dirt roads would rattle your teeth a bit. It's all a degree of your own willingness and comfort. FWD cars make decent rally cars but rally cars only last between 1 race and one season.

I pent 10 hours on a MOAB trail with my fully stock Suburban. Had an awesome time. But I knew what I was getting into and had a willingness to come away with a bump and a scrape if it happened.

Likely 99% of people would never do what I did. I lean towards: live a little. The steering wheel is round and can turn the car around. But don't do anything more than you're able to handle.

Last time my Chassis batteries acted up like that they wound up needing replaced. I nursed mine along for a few months but every time I sat for more than 5 days they died and had to be jumped.

Check the age of the batteries. Mine looked completely normal during that time. Unfortunately, they don't last forever.

4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My sister works for a family owned manufacturing company in Northern Wisconsin, they have their own delivery trucks.  The fuel supplier has warned them that supply will be tight and hinted that there may be restrictions for essential vehicles only.  Price is up to but I just checked gas buddy and the price up there is ~$0.30 lower then in E TN.  Normally it's the other way around. 

Man this is going to get ugly.

I do not enjoy hearing this. Compound delivery issues with the fact that farming is a Diesel intensive process. not good....

South Carolina is reporting shortages due this week. Most semis that are hauling fill up about twice a day on average and that means anywhere from 300-500 gallons per fill-up. Charleston has a very active port with a massive amount of trucks on the road. I figure this shortage will be focused on states with a higher amount of trucks on the road.

You gotta pay to play. Just grit your teeth at the pump.

Not a good thing. I would stay topped off on food and supplies also. Just in case. No diesel in an area means little to no shipping to that area.

Most supply chains are now on a "just in time" model. Few supply chains carry sufficient reserves for a 3-7 day delivery drought.

Please report back when the trip is done. Would like to hear how it went.

I plan on trying to head back out in the fall (August-November) and skip the summer crazyness.

Thanks ED and thanks everyone. It seems to be a bit of a mixed bag. I've been willing to go into some tough areas but your depiction of "NO RIGHTS" is a bit too much for me at this time.  I don't carry an arsenal but I do carry protection with me. Crossing the border with the rig would require some careful consideration and preparation to ensure I'm not out of bonds on legal. I also don't enjoy people having free reign in my space. Police are otherwise.

The idea of parking north of the border and venturing south in the toad seems to be the right compromise. I'll continue to do my homework and appreciate the wisdom provided.

Not discounting going there. But pretty sure I'll be hitting Canada and Alaska before crossing south.

So I've read good and bad things about driving over to Mexico. There are some beautiful places there and having a chance to see the Aztec/Mayan ruins is a great opportunity. I would love to hear the good and bad from first or secondhand experience.

The family did 15K+ miles last fall across the US. So not a newbie by any means. We're adventurous but don't want to bring the kids over to the cartel's doorstep either.  Mexico isn't Brazil, but it can act like it at times.

Fortunately, the coach carries quite a bit of water on board 😉

Shoot me some wisdom!

11 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Guys….  We banned Brandon references and such 

For the sake of harmony….and also to keep the “Report” box from filling up needlessly…..as that just makes work for us….please back off a little.

Thanks for understanding…..

 

Understood. No worries.

oops. What did I start....

I'm unsure if this helps. On mine there are two fuses for AC. one at the main house fuse panel and a second inside the metal box under/inside the unit. this could be checked but not necessarily the issue.

I was in Cali 6 months ago and it was hovering $5+. Now back in the Carolinas and it's running $5+. Wish someone would drill a bit more.

15 minutes ago, guy_ethier said:

Yes, by taking the Alaska Ferry from Bellingham, WA if it is still running

Not cheap, but still cheaper than the price for diesel at 3800 miles round trip figure around $1.75 per mile approx. 

That's a nice ride up.

Ouch. Is there a way to get to Alaska without driving through Canada?

Hey all,

I hit a deer a month ago and have been looking for a repair shop. Fortunately, I only grazed her and it only cracked the fiberglass. I've called around and most shops are booked up. I'm looking for a good paint and body shop in South Carolina or nearby.

Please let me know if you know anyone in the area. Thanks!

10 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Nvrtoofast, the only wiring from the original system that needs to be transfered is the 12ga romex(110vac).

Understood. Makes sense and thank you.

Looking through comments on the RecPro site for the unit i ran across a comment that mentioned using: https://www.switch-bot.com/ to manage two units through individual thermostats with one controller by the phone. Interesting tech that could be used for other RV applications.
 

I'm in the market for a new unit right now. Last summer I did a rapid replacement of my original penguin with a DuoTherm Brisk II (cooling only). It was nice for a year. It IS louder than the Penguin in the front.  Although it is 15K where the Penguin was/is 13.5. The Brisk has now become a Brick as it has stopped cooling. With summer coming quickly. I'm looking for something that can run  a full ducted system.

I got most of the info I need here but I'm missing something important. I have a Furnace that is AWESOME in deep winter (Although it has just started showing signs of issues (Going to have to fix it). I want to know how the Houghton hooks up to the controllers and can It work in conjunction with the Furnace?

I'm assuming, the two units could be run independently with the supplied remotes and then turn them off when running the furnace. Seems like it would work. Open to other ideas here.

Thanks for the writeup! You've sold me on the units. Just need to work out details before purchase.

ALSO. How did you wire it? does ith plug in directly to the same plugs? Or is it rewired from the feed wire for the old unit?

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Is it water, diesel or boiler coolant?

Checked it when I found it leaking. It is water only. it has also left some in the bay. Not a lot but some.

Also, My AC drains are in the front and rear end caps of the RV. As for the fridge I am unsure. But the fridge area has shown no signs of leaking.

On the hunt.