nvrtoofast

Short story:

Went by Cummins for a checkup. They did a thorough Inspection. Part of the inspection they ran the coach on the Dyno. The ABS and ATC lights came on. As you would expect since the front wheels stay put while the rears are going strong. The Cummins rep said that normally the lights go off after 100 or so miles. I've seen this logic stated on the web multiple times (Sometimes only a few miles). It seems strong advice. However, I've traveled more than 2K+ miles now and the lights remain on. I'm not daring enough to push the abs to engage so I don't know if it is working or not.

I want to know how to get the lights to turn off and get my dash back to normal. P.S. no other elements on the braking were touched during the PM. They should be off by now.

Help? Thoughts?

2006 Monaco Camelot. I believe it has the 400 hp Cummins (Though I don't think that makes a difference).

4 hours ago, Steven P said:

My 06 Diplomat has 2 speakers in the bedroom that are factory wired to the main dash radio.  Make sure your dash radio is set to center and not front.  I added a small soundbar to my bedroom TV.  Make sure those RCA are hooked to output if looki g for speakers.   If hooked to input, then probably a DVD or vcr, etc...

I have four speakers in the bedroom. 2 are connected to radio. 2 are connected to bedroom tv via RCA cables and an amp somewhere. The 2 with radio work fine. You're right. They are rear channel and only work when radio activates the rear channel.

Overall. Just not happy with the sound in this rig. I swapped the head unit and it helps. Planning a large up-fit with some quality amplification and speakers. Control is still up in the air.

Apologies Beyond my knowledge.

Just_John1,

The shop was able to get me on the road this afternoon. I hope your moving closer to that goal. I'm not wanting to get you down but the opposite. Encouragement to you and the wife. I hope you're back on the road very soon.

On a side note, If anyone is in Everett, WA. I can recommend the guys at Auto Truck Service. They were honest, direct, and let me park on site overnight. Also, even though they are backlogged for several weeks they prioritized me to get me back on the road. Good team there.

There are also two pigtail usually with two small wires in each. I believe each one controls the reversing of the pump. Like Ivan K said there are Dip switches that need to be arranged accordingly.

Good choice on the Penguins. I look forward to hearing more on the micro air. I need to update my thermostat and have been indecisive.

Just_John1, I'm glad you have a direction. I've got my fingers crossed it will bear fruit.

On my side they pulled the dryer and it was filled with awesome sludge. Putting in a new one tomorrow and hopefully on the road. No guarantees till I'm on the road. I'll likely need a new compressor in a month or so.

Let us know how you get on.

I ran into the same culprit last week. Joe Lee. Any effect to the fridge? any reason to keep the vent open?

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I spent hours yesterday looking for parts, most places that list the part are out of stock.  I called one place that showed it was in stock but it was not and they wanted me to order before they could tell me delivery time.  Not going to do that.

The only thing I was able to order were the rubber grommets.   Tried to find a new blower wheel, again none in stock.

 

 

Does anyone have an opinion as to whether having a heat pump is worth it??  As I've been doing my research one model I looked at said heat pump was only ~5KBTU,, 

 

Also, which make/models are quieter.  Our Duotherms are pretty loud, even after I installed a new motor & mounts in the front AC it is pretty loud.  That's what prompted me to look at the rear as it was loud and I found the rubber bushings gone. 

I swapped to a new AC unit over the summer. It's a 15K. Super happy with it until last month. It's not a heat pump model. I was in South Dakota and temperatures started to fall. The wife started to complain because the front unit is  heart pump and blows warm air fast. Rear is now AC only.

Her preference. Heat pump. BUT. the heat pump cuts out at 40 deg or thereabout. After that it kicks to Furnace. Took a minute but I figured out the prefered settings for Furnace. Haven't heard another word about the heat pump.

However. if you're on shore power consistently  and above 40 degrees then you're saving money. If you're boondocking or below 40 then you're burning diesel either way so no savings.

I hope this helps think about it. By the way, one 15K made HOT SC summer afternoons a breeze. I was never left wanting.

It cycles a bit more often but the other ran ALL the time.

Just_John1,

We just crossed paths this morning. My quick departure was abrupt.  Apologies. I was on my way down the street to get my compressor looked at. The air has been leaking down and I had low air on the road 3 times last night. Not fun.

After leaving, your question made me remember a problem I had with an old Chevy motor. A rocker kept loosening. We would tighten it up but it would loosen again. Come to find out the threads were bad on the head. Had it worked on at a machinist. New threads and the problem never came back. Similar? Maybe, maybe not.

I am a few blocks down from you now at a shop called Auto Trucks. I mention it because they do Diesels and have a Machine shop here if you need it. Hopefully you don't. I hope you can torque it down and go!

Reach out if you need anything. I'm nearby.

17 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Could the RCA cable left, right be a connection to the speakers over the bed. 

Gary 05 AMB DST

The Rca cables are for the sppeakers but they have to process through an amp at some point

I'm working on outfitting stereo in the bedroom of my 2006 Monaco Camelot. I have an RCA cable behind the TV. It has Left Right and Video. There are two speakers over the bed that work independently from the house stereo. I'm trying to locate the amplifier between these two.

I've traced the RCA cabling under the bed and will continue looking around. I'm asking if anyone knows the location of low voltage wiring for the bedroom area. It will certainly save me time

DavidL,  All good points and good post.

The "Range" of install is always what must be considered. I don't have a set budget,  but want to find optimal performance for the dollar. I don't need to hear top quality audio when my youngest asks for "The wheels on the bus". But I do want to watch Jurassic Park without the sub rattling itself and ruining the T-Rex moment.

I like your set-up and it makes sense. My biggest reason for posting is trying to get out of running new cabling for the stereo. It's doable but a time saver if i can get around it. Current system has a 5.1 setup in the house side and links to 2 more in the bedroom. It also has 2 separates at the bed linked to the tv in the bedroom.

It's not a bad start. But the speakers are thin on sound and it seems as there is no EQ on any of them and no filters on any of them for range.

My thinking was similar to yours on head units, speakers and total cost. 

I like automation and was hoping to keep some of the features of the coach monitoring. Though my Aladdin was broke when I purchased and have never used it. Only know what I've seen online. Silverleaf seemed like a good choice for fixing and upgrading the Aladdin system. But I hear your skepticism. Please tell me more about "Myserver" and how you have it installed and its functionality. I'm interested.

Car wraps run 1K to 5K depending. You can likely get one for around 10K. I would check Charleston, Atlanta and Charlotte areas.

It does seem like a significant jump. However, body working supplies are up big time. Since they are specifically petroleum based chemicals. The oil crunch is carrying over to other areas and increasing price.

i actually think I have a full Aladdin system but in my file it has the Aladdin Jr. book. I am a tad confused.

Thanks Chuck. My coach has a 5.1 system with poor quality. upgrading the head unit with a better amp improved the sound slightly. The sub in the coach is not filtered so it receives full range sound, making it a muffled mess. Will need to think on the strategy to make sure I have enough inputs for the plethora of devices today.

Things to fix:

- Camera system - Currently a weldex monitor with 3 cameras

- Audio - Replaced auto head unit and looking to fix overall audio quality

Like to have:

- a better coach monitoring system for tanks, engine data, etc

Aladdin is video but much more than that. It is a full coach monitoring and control system. It is linked to cameras, engine data, tanks, Audio, and a few other minor elements. The only reason to mention it is the hope of converting to silverleaf will fix the audio issues (Creature comfort)Also. I somewhat doubt this is the case.  Silverleaf is a minimum of 2K for the transfer material. With no guarantee a prior owner didn't cut necessary wires or systems.

Bypassing the system is easy enough but I wish to use all current wiring to make it easier. Therefore knowing the Aladdin schematics will help to know what wires will be adapted to my needs. It will avoid cutting the wrong wire and exploding my internal bomb.
 

Audio is my primary target but really I'm fixing all creature comfort electronics due to coach age. Electronics are far better than in 2006. I'm just looking for the right data to make proper decisions and prepare my strategy.

I'm looking at upgrading the audio on my rig.The books say that it has the Aladdin Jr. setup. I was originally going to swap in a silver leaf set up since the Aladdin system is not working. I'm now thinking of putting together a home theater setup as a brain and then adding other elements as needed.

I already need to swap out the weldex because it only works when it wants to. The Aladdin system monitoring is nice to have but not a necessity. Would prefer to have proper audio and video when I want it. Currently it is just insufficient.

I'm looking for any schematics on the alladin system to plan how I will butcher it. uh... Integrate