nvrtoofast

The witch by the front door is a terrible spot. My kids hit it often and it has become my goto fix for a lot of issues. <-- That's just sad.

Just now, nvrtoofast said:

The witch by the front door is a terrible spot. My kids hit it often and it has become my goto fix for a lot of issues. <-- That's just sad.

Witch was not intended but it suits that thing.

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

Do you have the Essex keypad by the door?

It would be very simple to add a momentary contact switch inside the door to trigger the lock relays

Please elaborate.

Really Like the RecPro units. So much so, I have a 15K unit in a box in the garage. If anyone needs one out there just reach out.

All the info needed is in the thread above.  And well laid out too.

You're not Paranoid. That makes complete sense and gives peace of mind. Mainly after you've taken off your pants, it's 40 degrees outside and begin to wonder if you locked the bay doors.

No..... I've never done that.....

You would think "well use the key fob". But remember that there wasn't one with the rig when you bought it.  

Interested to see how you do this.

On 8/14/2023 at 4:12 PM, Gary Cole said:

I would buy a 3D printer and learn how to use it before I would pay someone $45.00 for a fancy bottle cap. I've avoided one particular European car maker for years due to their rapacious parts pricing. I began to suspect that their cars were engineered to consume parts on a regular schedule.

 

Sorry Gary,
Sounds like you need to Bring More Wallet.

The wires in these clips are held in place by a plastic retainer. Have a look at the other holes and you will see a little tab that keeps it in. You can depress that tab with a small stiff wire or pick and remove the connector. You may be able to pull open the connector and put in a new wire. If not you'll need to search for a wire connector that fits in your clip. first step is to get it out and then assess the next steps.

On 7/28/2023 at 7:56 PM, Tom Cherry said:

ANYWAY...my brain is tired.  I MAY have figured it out.  SO, if you did this or tried this, it would have worked.  The control unit is nothing more than a "whistle stop" like a remote dumb terminal.  The front board has an issue.  The circuit to PASS THROUGH the Voltage from the rear is bad.  However, if there was DC up front, would it have worked....?  Maybe NOT worth the chase.  It would be interesting, for me...maybe others...if you ran a temp line to the front board.  If it THEN worked, then we know that if you DO have 12 VDC and there is a problem on the board, then it WILL take it's power and supplement or provide power.  Just curious.

ccc5 Trouble Shooting.pdf 672.56 kB · 6 downloads

This IS interesting AND I wish I had tried it. I could have easily run a temp power to that unit. It would have also centered the issue to the rear unit/board. I'll need to put a roll of wire in my travel kit. Good idea!

AND 100% the new unit would not have fixed it. I doubted it was the issue myself.

I'm somewhat confused why they even use a 12V source when the units can't run without 120v. I'm not an electrical engineer. I'll leave that conundrum to them.

I'll see if I can clean the corroded pots as they definitely looked bad and the board looked good. I just didn't have any vinegar handy.

Good news: Moved the front control board to the rear, where I have power for the board. I got the thermostat to light up.

Bad News: I need a new board to replace the bad one that was in the rear.

I'll update when I have a new board.

On a side note. I'm perplexed why there is no power wire to the front unit. Original unit, so I figure it should be there.

I've developed a plan. After examining the schematics and what is in the roof. I DO NOT have 12V_DC to the front controller. It appears the rear controller did everything. It has the White and Red wire that are confirmed 12V with my Multi-meter. So the rear controller board may be dead.

I will swap the front and rear controller to be sure. While disconnected, I will pull the rear board from the casing and inspect.

Fingers crossed that I may have found it.

Thanks Tom. I've been running down most of these areas. All other 12V items are on. So panel is good and it is pushing 12+V. I'll check behind the panel for any other circuit breakers. Hopefully, I find one and can stop.
 

I've played with the phone cables and nothing worked. Will try to check for 12V power at the boards. Both units were running till they all stopped and display went dark. It all doesn't go wrong at once. So I am surely looking for a specific item.

Thermostat still will not start. Micro-air is sending a new one out. Not 100% sure that is the fix but have no idea honestly.

Pulling out the multi meter.

Pulled the board. Looked good on the back. Any Ideas where to look next?

194FEC3B-CBAA-40EA-88C5-50E1CFD28E79.heic

Thanks for the thought. I swapped plugs on the front unit and plugged in the T-stat on the cable to the rear unit. No Joy. Did the same to connect to the rear unit. No Joy. Reached out to Micro-air (t-stat) and they contacted immediately. They advise to unplug for 1 hour and then call back. I will have a call with them in about 30 minutes. The contact is knowledgeable and is clearly looking to know the issue to better the product. Good company.

Thanks.

- Panel fuse: Good
- Unit fuses: Good
- Phone wire connectors: all "cycled" and should be as good as can be expected. Front rear and thermostat.

- Main breakers: cycled Unit breakers for 30 seconds then Main breaker for another 30.

- Control boards: Opened up front and rear. Both "look" Kosher

Not sure what I'm missing

UPDATE: Located the board in the front AC unit. Checked the fuse and it was good. Unplugged and reattached. No change in power to Thermostat.

On shore power in my 2006 Camelot. AC was running fine. Sometime in the night the Thermostat lost power. I have a MicroAir Touch. I happen to have the old dometic thermostat in a cabinet. I swapped it and no power to it either. Where does Power for the cable come from. I've cycled the breakers just in case and nothing. Any help is appreciated. Going to be a hot day.

Thanks for posting. I have seen slow pressure build also and have not checked the line. I'll be doing that very soon.

MoonDocking! That speed is awesome!

Looks like Moab. How was the drive in?

@Tom Wallis 30-100 is nice. I was on sim cards last national trip and had averages of 15+. It was a pain. Relieved when I got above 30.

@Ivan KWhat is "faster". Have you tried a speed test every once in a while. Very curious on speed. I need something at 30MB+. speedtest.net is a good one to try.

Love the campsite!!

 

ditto!

12 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

That appears to be one of the thirty (approximately) Watts links that I designed and prototyped as a "proof of concept" when I was searching for a cure for the Monaco "wandering".  After the thirty units, the concept was proven successful and I furnished all the info I had to Mike Hughes and agreed to allow him to manufacture and sell the units without me benefiting in any way.  I was only trying to satisfy my engineering curiosity when I designed it.  Even though I owned a CNC machine shop, I had no desire to market the product.

There have been several instances of the center Grade 8 5/8-11 bolt loosening in service.  In hindsight, I wish I had made the bolt 3/4-10 instead of 5/8-11.  However, most installations gave good service.  I do not think Mike will be able to supply you the missing brass bushing and 5/8-11 bolt.  Let me know what length bolt you need, and I will send you the bolt, locking nut, and brass bushing for free.  Just pay $10 for packing and shipping.

Van 

Nice stuff Van W. Just curious. Why did you put the pivot point on the chassis and not the axle as it is normally is seen? Space requirements? 
Is there a place to buy the upgrade part currently? 

Curious about this. I've had a similar issue from time to time. I do not know the cause either. Typically on a cold start and a brief issue.

4 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

"DuckDuckGo blocked this YouTube video to prevent Google from tracking you".  I could watch it, but then they'd be watching me.  Just sayin'.

- bob

Those Crafty guys... That's why I run a VPN. They are always trying, but I keep evading...

Just because engineering is cool. Here is a brief video of a watts link in action.

A watts link is a type of panhard bar. a condensed one. It keeps the axle centered in the chassis in bumps while the axle cycles up and down.  Helps keep the wheels planted. a great thing to have.