CAT Stephen

Denny,

The issue with the Winegard Traveler is that it is not field serviceable, thus your understanding is correct that it must be shipped to Winegard for service (The Winegard factory, not just an RV dealership and you pay the shipping charges).  Another issue with the Winegard Traveller is that almost all of its electronics are exposed to the weather on your RV roof.

The competitor to the Winegard Traveler is the RF Mogul Eagle. 

Here the the advantages of the RF Mogul Eagle versus the Winegard Traveler:

- 100% field serviceable --> No need to ever ship the unit back to the factory for service  

- Built in GPS --> Deploys faster and locks on sooner as there is no need for user input.

- All electronics located inside the RV --> The Winegard Traveler has almost all electronics on the roof being exposed to weather

- Easy conversion between DirecTV/Dish/Bell/Shaw satellite providers  --> Only some Winegard Traveller's support only one-way conversion between DirecTV and Dish. 

- Much smaller stow size on your RV roof at 37" long by 8.5" tall --> The Winegard Traveler stows to 48" long X 9.5" high

-Smaller Rotational Clearance Zone of 26"--> The Winegard Traveler clearance is larger at 33"

Here is what is the same for the RF Mogul Eagle versus the Winegard Traveler:

- Support of both Dish full eastern and western arcs --> Note that both require LNBF and Feed arm changes

- Warranty is 1 year labor and two years parts

- Both are manufactured and assembled in the United States

Here is the advantage of the Winegard Traveler over the RF Mogul Eagle

- The Winegard Traveler Pro #SK2DISH in a Dish network Western arc config is $2249.00 which is $150.00 less expensive that the RF Mogul Eagle #365-EAGLE-DISHNETWORK at~$2395.00 

You can learn more about the RF Mogul Eagle here:

- https://www.rfmogul.com/rv-eagle-tv-1

Here are the dealers that sell and install the RF Mogul Eagle:

- https://www.rfmogul.com/where-to-buy

Hello Denny,

To get you the right solution, please answer the following questions:

- Who is your satellite provider (Dish, DirecTV)

- Do you want in-motion satellite reception?

- How many televisions do you want to use simultaneously that can be tuned to different satellite channels?

- what satellite receiver(s) would you like to use and are you flexible with potentially changing your satellite receivers?

- Your profile indicates that you are located in Washington.  Are you primarily using your RV in the Western USA? 

16 hours ago, Denny Wagaman said:

It’s time to replace my Satellite. Winegard traveler or KVH or?

appreciate your comments
 

Hello Denny,

To get you the right solution, please answer the following questions:

- Who is satellite provider (Dish, DirecTV, Bell, etc.)

- Do you want in-motion satellite reception?

- How many televisions do you want to use simultaneously that can be tuned to different satellite channels?

- what satellite receiver(s) would you like to use and are you flexible with potentially changing your satellite receivers?

- What part of the USA or Canada do you primarily use your RV in? 
 

5 hours ago, Stephen Walsh said:

Location to add fluid? And what type of fluid?

Stephen,

Follow the hydraulic lines to find the landing gear reservoir.  There are typically two reserviors on most coaches:  The hydraulic steering reservoir and the hydraulic jack reservoir.  The hydraulic jack reservoir uses ATF (automatic transmission fluid).  Once you fill the reservoir, cycle your landing gear ~3 times then check the level again.  Then, inspect each jack to insure it is fully retracted.  If you find a jack that is not fully retracted, there are two types of jacks that require different repair actions:

- Jack with external (visible) springs: Replace the external springs if the jack does not fully retract

- Jack with internal (non-visible) springs: Replace the entire jack if the jack does not fully retract

Thank you everyone for your excellent input on this topic! 

I wanted to share with you the outcome:

- From the documentation that Dave Jones provided (thanks Dave!!), and the free telephone technical support from Lippert (Lippert now owns Kwikee), I isolated the issue to a defective controller

- I was very pleased with Lippert's direct technical support on this product!

- Lippert's technical support advised that, since my Kwikee Series 32 step was made before 2004, I would need to order a complete electronics and mechanical upgrade kit including a new motor assembly, new gearbox, new controller, and new door switch (Everything but the step) since the pre-2004 electronics and mechanicals are no longer available and are not compatible with currently available Lippert Kwikee parts. This upgrade package is currently available from Lippert for $560.00 plus tax and ~$75 shipping.

Given the high cost of the upgrade kit, I purchased a complete factory new Kwikee Series 32 Electric Step Assembly for $592.10 from Amazon with free shipping which is $42.10 less than the upgrade kit directly from Lippert, I get the new product warranty, and I save ~1-2 hours of my installation labor dealing with swapping virtually everything on the legacy downlevel step.

- https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Components-372261-Kwikee-Electric/dp/B01F92UZBW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

In summary, due to the age of my Pre-2004 Lippert Kwikee electric step resulting in all parts (except the step and linkages) being unavailable for purchase, I had to purchase an entire new electric step assembly.  What I thought would be a simple control module replacement for $85 has become expensive $592.00 step into another RV maintenance saga!

My coach is a Holiday Rambler Endeavor 38WDD.

How can I discover what electric steps are installed on my coach and what is the troubleshooting procedure to isolate the root cause?

1 hour ago, VinceB said:

 

Does the JC upgrade use the Norcold controls?  If so, what number do you run it on to get 36° in the refrigerator section?  I ask this becuase we like to run it colder than that.

Also, what kind of battery consumption do you experience at 36°?

Vince,

Yes, the JC upgrade uses the Norcold controls.  The number you set on the Norcold brow depends upon the outside temperature.   Also, the battery consumption varies with the outside temperature and the inside temperature of your coach.

Hello Frank,

Before you consider a rebuild, power on the  ECM, then crank the engine to determine if the ECM is throwing a code. The most common issue with the N14 is that can cause the noise that you described is when an injector isn’t grounded. 

4 hours ago, russ2528 said:

When you want to do a thorough under chassis inspection do you use your hydraulic jacks to raise it up for better clearance. What, if anything, would you block it up for safety?

Never use your Hydraulic jacks to inspect the RV chassis as they could release and put your life at risk.  Although an unexpected release is rare, your life is not worth risking over an inspection. Purchase an automotive crawler for ~$29 then you will be able to view everything under the chassis:

- https://smile.amazon.com/Pro-LifT-C-6036-36-Plastic-Creeper/dp/B07344KYKM/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ML8CWUS3ABC&keywords=creepers+automotive&qid=1676245303&sprefix=creeper%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-7

On 2/3/2023 at 7:30 PM, Dick Roberts said:

The lp burner fires up but the fridge doesn't get cold. Inverter doesn't work so I'm limited to gas. How long should it take to start getting cold?

Or is it time to replace it?

Thanks

Hello Dick,

The good news is that you have not yet received an error from your Norcold brow (i.e. your Norcold display).  If your cooling unit has failed, you will receive an error message on the brow and / or you will have already observed a yellow substance near the burner area along with the sent of ammonia.  As others have indicated, the next step is to determine if your absorption unit is starting to cool after ~12 hours.  The temperature differential will be most pronounced in the left hand freezer compartment.

Coming to any conclusions before this initial cooling test is inconclusive (i.e. not accurate).

Tim,

To accomodate charging your chassis batteries, I recommend the following product:

- Victron Energy Blue Smart IP67 12-Volt 17 amp 120VAC Battery Charger NEMA 5-15 (Bluetooth)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TJK3X71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This charger is ignition proof (IP67) so you can install it within your chassis battery compartment without concern of igniting the hydrogen gas from your chassis batteries.  Just make sure that you extend the 120VAC plug to another compartment with a 120VAC outlet.

This charger is also bluetooth enabled and you can customize the lead acid charging profile to optimize it for your chassis batteries.

Pete,

It helps tremendously that you are storing your rig indoors to protect your rig from UV exposure.  With that being said, rubber has a limited lifespan regardless of storage. 

My coach is a model year 2000.  The rubber coolant hoses recently started cracking and, in very few spots, started oozing a rubber goo.  As a result, I'm spending ~$2500 to replace every rubber belt and rubber hose on my Onan genset, my CAT 3126B, and my Allison MD3060 transmission next week.  I'm even replacing the transmission cooler as it is original equipment to avoid risking $10K transmission repair bill in the event of internal transmission cooler corrosion that may lead to engine coolant contamination of the transmission.

The question for your rig now is not if a hose will fail, but when a hose will fail.  28 year old rubber can fail anytime.

Most new hoses on the market today are made from silicon rubber which is a big improvement for lifespan, but is also hard on your wallet.

Tough Top vinyl awnings are very good quality.  But, if you want the absolute best from a warranty, price, and quality perspective, then go with SunPro via: https://sunpromfg.com/

I replaced all of my awnings with SunPro.  They are amazing and have a much better warranty than Tough Top awnings with a better price / value than Tough Top awnings.

I am not affiliated with SunPro or Tough Top.  I'm just another Monaco owning RVer that had to replace all of my awnings.

Congratulations Dick,

Welcome to motorhome ownership!  A motorhome is just like a BOAT (Break Out Another Thousand) 😄  But, I would not trade the motorhome experience for anything!!

To help you with the issues discovered:

• Fuel Cap
  • The best place to buy a fuel cap is to visit an Autozone or Advanced Auto as they have many fuel caps in stock.  Bring your existing fuel cap into the store and start comparing until you find the matching fuel cap then buy a spare just in case.  Make sure to bring your motorhome so that you can test the new fuel cap in the parking lot so avoid many trips back and forth.
• Transmission Temperature Gage
  • Allison Transmission puts their data stream on the J1708 Canbus or the J1939 Canbus, depending on how your motorhome is equipped
    • Using your Engine Make and Model, call your local engine dealer and have them look up the canbus type for you.  It will be either the J1708 canbus or the J1939 canbus)
    • Select a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com and view page 7 to determine which engine canbus interface is required on page 7 
      • Download Getting Started
    • Purchase a Canbus to Bluetooth adapter from Bluefirellc.com using the outcome of the getting started guide on page 7
      • If you have a 6 pin J1708 adapter: https://www.bluefire-llc.com/store/6-pin-j1708-adapters
      • If you have a 9 pin J1708 or 9 pin J1939 adapter: https://www.bluefire-llc.com/store/9-pin-j1939j1708-adapters
    • After receiving your canbus adapter and loading the Bluefire software on your iPhone or Android, check to see if your transmission temperature is being transmitted on the canbus while the engine is running:
      • If you see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (95% probability) or your wiring to your dashboard transmission temperature gage is defective (5% probability)
      • If you don't see Transmission temperature data on the Canbus, then your transmission temperature sensor is defective.

If you prefer not to troubleshoot your transmission temperature sensor via DIY, you can have your transmission temperature sensor checked by an Allison Transmission authorized service center.  Be prepared to spend ~$200+ to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center diagnose this issue for you.  

You probably have an Allison MD3060 transmission.  I believe this transmission will require a TranSynd fluid change to replace the transmission temperature sender if the temperature sender is defective.  If that is the case, the TranSynd fluid and filter change will cost ~$600-$800 to have an Allison Transmission authorized service center do this fluid change for you.  You also have a transmission retarder, so the TranSynd fluid will need to be replaced every ~15000 to ~20000 miles, depending on your duty cycle as specified by Allison Transmission.  

You should proceed to replace the transmission fluid and filters in any case as soon as possible except in the case that you have service documentation from the prior owner where you definitively know when the transmission fluid and filters were last changed.  Keep in mind that replacing or overhauling an Allison Transmission in a motorhome can cost between ~$10000-$20000, so don't skimp on Allison transmission maintenance. 

Chad,

What problem are you trying to solve?

Can you provide the part number for the Sony monitor that you replaced?

Bobby,

Yes, Verify the orientation as you cut off the existing connections.  
 

Here is the Dometic RJ11 Pinout for your reference:

- https://images.app.goo.gl/rTous275UkrMFBHY7

You will need to purchase the following items to change the ends:

- RJ11 Male Connectors 

- RJ11 Crimper

Here is a kit containing both items on Amazon:

- https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Crimping-Connectors-Network-Stripper/dp/B08DHJBLXQ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1G1PYMW0NB6RA&keywords=rj11%2Bcrimper%2Btool&qid=1673150524&sprefix=Rj11%2Bcrimper%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-6&th=1

31 minutes ago, Coach J said:

I know the connectors are reversed so to speak. When changing out the ends can someone clarify what I need to do as far as ensuring that I change these ends correctly?  I have searched for a video but no luck. I am making an assumption that if I am careful when changing them and install the new connector in the same direction too As the old oneI should be correct. Just looking for clarification

 

2007 diplomat 40SKQ 

Can you elaborate on what application and use case that you want to utilize the RJ11 connectors for?  It sounds like HVAC, so if that is the case, you will also need to specify the brand and model of your rooftop air conditioners.

Also, what is your basis of condition that would require reversing the RJ11 wiring?

Tom,

I’m very technical, so I’ll pursue the path that you indicated.  Thank you!!!

10 hours ago, Michael OBrien said:

 

Have traced to a broken wire or junction box on the common wire from ice maker in fridge back to inverter somewhere, in the walls likely.   Need to find a radio tracer to pinpoint…to dig any further.  Will keep all you all posted, but if anyone has a 110v schematic for the 2003 Holiday Rambler Neptune 36’ that would be very helpful 

Michael, 

Unfortunately, the Monaco AC wiring diagrams only show outlets locations for each circuit.
 

You  will now need pull new replacement wire for the failed wire segment that you identified  That happened to me two years ago and I had to run a new wire segment behind my cabinetry since it is impossible to run new wire horizontally through RV walls without removing the thin plywood covering the walls.  This replacement took me 14 hours to complete, so get ready for a long day of work.
 

Hopefully, your failed wire segment will be where you have some cabinetry to hide the new wire.  If not, you can utilize panduit from Lowes or Home Depot to cover the new wire segment.

10 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Can you explain how you want the remote to work?  When/what would trigger it to turn on and off?  I'm not sure why you are wanting to do this.  A deeper explanation might help.  There are several assistants in Victron's Library, but I sense you're not asking about controlling the relay, but how to use the output of the relay controlled by the Cebro to turn on / off the power switch on the Norcold.  

  -Rick N.

Thank You Rick,

Here is my use case:  I store my Class A at a storage facility and do not run my Norcold until ~24 hours before an RV journey. So, I desire to remotely trigger the Notcold refrigerator to power on.  Unlike a residential refrigerator which powers on automatically when power is applied, The Norcold 1200LRIM requires that I physically press the power button on the Norcold Brow control/ user interface. So, my question is not a Victron Cerbo technical question, but Is a Norcold question of how I could trigger something on the Norcold’s controller board using the built-in relays on the Victron Cerbo GX.

I currently control my Cerbo GX via the remote panel via the internet to power on and power off other appliances and systems on my coach.  So your understanding is correct in that I desire to use the output of the relay controlled by the Cebro to turn on / off the power switch on the Norcold.  This, this is a Norcold control board interface question.

I have a Victron Cerbo GX and desire to remotely power on my Norcold 1200 LRIM refrigerator using an appropriate relay.  Essentially, I want to simulate pressing the on/off button on the eyebrow interface.  I have already tried a Switchbot, but the physical dimensions of the Switchbot ruled out that possibility.

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

The large 1200 nocold  was a bad design from day one. The cooling system is not large enough. I would have to disagree with cat Stephen. There is a reason why all high end units come from the factory with residential fridges. Even entry level rv s offer a house fridge as an option

 Our Dynasty has zero solar but does have 8_6volt batteries. If one uses the electronics in your unit: large TV,sound system microwave, charging cell phones  laptop etc. You have to run the genset at least once a day. We boondocks without any worries of losing battery power

 No Norcold has the capacity of a residential fridge

 Our Jennair is 21 cu.ft.  

Your mentioning door latches is anextreme  comment

 There are dozens of good add on latches.  The door gasket on a Norcold is not available. You have to buy the doors for over $1000. The hinge pins are also a problem

 I have never read where someone regretted changing to house fridge.

 

 

I agree with your assessment that the Norcold cooling units are insufficient.  That is why I referenced the JC Refrigeration cooling units.  I own a JC Refrigeration cooling unit on my Norcold  1200 and it keeps my freezer at -5F and my refrigerator at 28F on a 95F day on a setting of 7 (I can adjust to 9 which is colder).  Much better performance that the factory "Nocold".  I did not recommend a Norcold factory cooling unit above because the performance is poor and the tubing has very thin walls which creates a fire hazard.

15 hours ago, jimmcpheters said:

Only interested in new replacement, have considered other options, coolant unit already replaced in 07, I haven't checked reviews on the 1210. Thanks

Jim,

Then you best option, provided that you have a Refrigerator opening of sufficient size, is option 2b.  This option is vastly less expensive than a new Norcold refrigerator, is not a fire hazard, and is very efficient with a massive interior space uplift versus the Norcold:

• Another equivalent choice of a 12V compressor RV style refrigerator that has the interior storage and features of a residential refrigerator are the RecPro RV 12V refrigerators.  These refrigerators have doors that will not open when you are on bumpy roads just like your existing Norcold and they include standard mounting hardware so that you don't need to do a custom installation. The only catch is that they may or may not fit your existing opening, so measure carefully:
  • https://www.recpro.com/rv-12v-refrigerator/
  • This option will cost ~$5-$10 per month for electricity if running full time